Cookenbacher Posted June 1, 2015 Share Posted June 1, 2015 It's coming together quickly now Giemme! Looks good in its primer coat, and I'm looking forward to seeing your painting techniques. Are you going to use Lifecolor? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
giemme Posted June 1, 2015 Author Share Posted June 1, 2015 Hi giemme. That looks excellent under it's coat of primer. I'm hoping to get back on my two Spitfires next weekend. Thanks Stix! Looking forward to your progress in your Spit pair! It's coming together quickly now Giemme! Looks good in its primer coat, and I'm looking forward to seeing your painting techniques. Are you going to use Lifecolor? Thanks Cooken! I'll be using Tamiya for this; the plan now is to lay some decanted Tamiya Aluminium where I want to have the chipping, then pre-shade only the bottom of the AC, then going on with the underside grey and roundels. Upper camo and salt chipping to follow. Ciao 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homerlovesbeer Posted June 2, 2015 Share Posted June 2, 2015 Hey nice work! How did u paint the radiator, before you installed? I couldn't see how you'd paint under the fuselage properly with it installed so I painted the bottom completely and the radiator separately then installed afterwards with mine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
giemme Posted June 3, 2015 Author Share Posted June 3, 2015 Thanks HLB! Yes, I did paint the radiator separately; if you go back to post #127, you'll see that I also masked and painted the wing area where it was to be installed. I then glued everything in place and, prior to starting with primer, masked the radiator interior with some foam rubber. That is going to stay there until I'm done with airbrushing the bottom side. Speaking of which, here's today's update: I airbrushed some decanted Tamiya Gloss Aluminium in the areas where I want to have chipping Once that cured, I started brushing on some water and applying salt on the wing roots Then it was time for pre-shading. I used Tamiya flat black but .... completely forgot to take pictures! SO you'll have to trust me about that. Anyway, I only preshaded the bottom side; after that, I did airbrush a few light coats of Tamiya XF83 Here's another pic, with a different light. The preshading effect is quite subtle, but not so much in "real flesh" Details of the salt application; as you can see, some of the salty water ran in places where I didn't actually want to, but I'll probably end up not spraying over, if I like the effect Eventually, I went over the whole thing with some post-shading, mixing the XF83 with some Tamiya Flat White and spraying it in the middle area of the panels This brought out even more the salty water effect Next would be careful brushing to remove the salt. That's it for now Ciao 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PlaStix Posted June 3, 2015 Share Posted June 3, 2015 You're definitely get into some interesting weathering techniques on this one. I'm looking forward to seeing how they look when they're done. I also really like the look of the shading on the undersides. Good progress! Kind regards, Stix 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
giemme Posted June 3, 2015 Author Share Posted June 3, 2015 Thanks Stix! As for the weathering, will see what turns out, it's all an experiment for the moment. The bottom side looks a bit too much like the top side of a carrier based modern jet fighter, but I'm quite confident that with all the transparent coats and washes it'll tone down right. Ciao 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Posted June 3, 2015 Share Posted June 3, 2015 Looks super! How did you go about cutting the elevators? I have a mk.I I'm working on at the moment and would like to do the same on it. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spookytooth Posted June 3, 2015 Share Posted June 3, 2015 Nice going Giemme, it will be interesting to see how the "salt" technique works out. Simon. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
giemme Posted June 3, 2015 Author Share Posted June 3, 2015 Thanks Simon and Dan! How did you go about cutting the elevators? I have a mk.I I'm working on at the moment and would like to do the same on it. Nothing difficult. I copied an idea from Stix's build, and simply scoured along the lines using a hobby knife scribing blade (the curved one that looks like a sort of hook). I scoured from the top and the bottom, without separating the elevators completely except for the tips; I kept testing if the plastic would flex after every few passages, until I reached the desired softness. Needless to say, I actually almost broke off one , but a small quantity of Tamiya Green Cap melted the plastic and fixed everything. HTH Ciao 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Posted June 3, 2015 Share Posted June 3, 2015 I'll give that a go, thanks 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob85 Posted June 3, 2015 Share Posted June 3, 2015 Giemme that looks great, the grey will darken with a wash or two and give a really nice weathered look to it, and if the salt chipping comes out like your prop you are onto a winner! Will be good to see how this progresses Rob 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
giemme Posted June 3, 2015 Author Share Posted June 3, 2015 Thanks Rob Yes, hopefully it should go how you described. Ciao Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buster213 Posted June 3, 2015 Share Posted June 3, 2015 geimme... Ive got the same kit waiting in my stash so will follow your build with a lot of interest. "Its looking good so far" think Ive heard that before somewhere.lol Nice work 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cookenbacher Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 I love the effects so far Giemme. I can't wait to see how it looks with the salt removed. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
giemme Posted June 4, 2015 Author Share Posted June 4, 2015 @Buster213: thanks for commenting, and welcome on board! @Cooken: this time you'll probably be disappointed ... I'm posting a progress in a few minutes, you'll see. Ciao Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
giemme Posted June 4, 2015 Author Share Posted June 4, 2015 (edited) So here's today's update: I removed the salt, using an old toothbrush. Now, the amount of chipping I was after was really limited, focused on the wing root area and only the bottom portion, as the bigger part of it will be when I paint the top side. I wasn't really happy with how it came out, so i decided to re-spray some XF83 along the leading edges and the bottom engine cover. This is what I got From the following two pics, you can still see some sort of lighter shade, where the salty water spread: I thought it was OK, and gave a Future coat to protect it before starting with painting roundels. Now, for clear coats and metallics I use an old airbrush, while the new one is only for acrylics. For some reason, the needle was set too far back, resulting in way too much Future coming off even without pulling the trigger, so that has cut back the post-shading and salty water effect probably a bit too much (you can still see some of the latter along the bottom engine cover panel lines): I'm still hoping that after washes and matt coat this will in some way go back to a more weathered look, but I'm also prepared to redo a bit of post-shading, just in case. Live and learn ... Before going to bed, I decided it was time for some more experiments, this time concerning the big code letters; so I cut out a paper mask for them, and tested it on a scrap piece: Before airbrushing Tamiya Sky, I used a soft brush to moist the edges of the paper mask, trying to get a sort of adhesion to the plastic. The thing is that when I started painting, the air flow dried that out immediately, leading to a way too blurry result ! So I did cut another mask, this time from Tamiya Masking sheet, but that is going to be tomorrow's update ... Comments welcome, particularly this time ... Ciao Edited June 4, 2015 by giemme 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gene K Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 I'm still hoping that after washes and matt coat this will in some way go back to a more weathered look, .... As you know, I like less weathering than you do, so I think it looks just great the way it is!!!! (I have no idea what that emoticon means) Thanks, as usual, for such a well documented thread! Gene K 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
giemme Posted June 4, 2015 Author Share Posted June 4, 2015 Thanks Gene, and I'm so happy you're still following along As you know, I like less weathering than you do, so I think it looks just great the way it is!!!! (I have no idea what that emoticon means) It means that you want to bang my head because I do too much weathering ... ...just kidding (am I?) Anyway, I'll refrain my weathering impulse and redirect it to the top side of this AC... Ciao Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cookenbacher Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 Fascinating experiment Giemme. It's interesting how the salt water changed the shade of the (Tamiya?) paint. I may have to follow up with an experiment of my own one day. I'm really interested in masks vs decals, and am looking forward to how the new letters from masking sheet do. Is the roundel on your test piece (Tornado tail?) from a Montex mask? It looks awesome. Thanks for sharing all of your techniques Giemme. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
giemme Posted June 4, 2015 Author Share Posted June 4, 2015 Fascinating experiment Giemme. It's interesting how the salt water changed the shade of the (Tamiya?) paint. I may have to follow up with an experiment of my own one day. Tamiya indeed, XF83. To me, it looks like a good way to do a carrier based jet fighter heavy weathering, using the salt technique to spray different gray shades. I'm really interested in masks vs decals, and am looking forward to how the new letters from masking sheet do. Is the roundel on your test piece (Tornado tail?) from a Montex mask? It looks awesome It is actually an old Tornado spare tail, I believe from a 1/48 Revell kit, but the masks are home made, look back at post #49 here. I've cut them out from a transparent masking sheet, using a compass with a prescription needle as cutting device. I'll post some pics tomorrow, 'cause the goal is to paint the underside roundels tonight and I'll have to prepare the corresponding masks. Ciao 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spookytooth Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 Sometimes, experimenting with ideas and new techniques can be very frustrating , but it also can be quite rewarding too.. Nice work Gremlin. Simon. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
giemme Posted June 4, 2015 Author Share Posted June 4, 2015 Nice work Gremlin. ? Thanks anyway, I hope my experimenting can also be useful for others (I, for one, learned a lot from other Britmodellers doing experiments) Ciao 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cookenbacher Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 I've cut them out from a transparent masking sheet, using a compass with a prescription needle as cutting device. I'll post some pics tomorrow, 'cause the goal is to paint the underside roundels tonight and I'll have to prepare the corresponding masks. Ciao I forgot that you had done that! The results are really great Giemme. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob85 Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 Looking forward to your masking process, I normally mask the lettering while drawn out on card then stick it down on the ac paint with matt cote then with the colour to stop it bleeding under. It's time consuming and Tbh I have only done it a couple of times its worked ok so would be good to see what you have up your sleeve. Rob 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BOBO Posted June 5, 2015 Share Posted June 5, 2015 (edited) Well, I have had the similar problem with my He 219A-0 kit (Tamiya 1/48) At first I make all letter decals selfmade with my inkjet printer and decal lequid film. The result was after 3 day absolutly poor. The ink has begun to tear. Then I moved the letter decals again with Thesa tape and make with Tamiya tape a new letter template for airbrsuh. You get only sharp edges with Tamiya tape and a new scalpel Alto too for all German Balkenkreuz I used special tape for plotter mashines. Edited June 5, 2015 by BOBO 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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