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Homerlovesbeer

First build in 20 years! Airfix Mitsubishi A6M2b Zero 1:72

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Well the decals are now complete all over. There are two missing on the sheet however. Airfix calls for 4 of the number 12 decal but only provide 2 on the sheet??


Does anybody know the best way to clean up the Micro Sol/Set off the model prior to a gloss coast and weathering?


I've taken some pics outdoors in better lighting. I hope you guys enjoy ;)


decals%20complete%20outside_zpsjhmhqnwg.


decals%20complete%20outside%202_zpsqoypv


decals%20complete%20outside%203_zpsif98w


decals%20complete%20outside%204_zps6honu


Thanks!

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Does anybody know the best way to clean up the Micro Sol/Set off the model prior to a gloss coast and weathering?

I've never bothered, although I usually only use the red one (what is the difference, btw). By the time I've left it overnight to work its magic, there's no noticeable residue, and a brush full of Clear followed eventually by a flat coat (which might apply before as well as after weathering if I need to give powders something to grip) brings everything together nicely.

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Looks really nice, I gotta make me one in that color scheme.

Excess sol/set can be rinsed off using water to some extent but like 06/24 states it's not critical as the sealing/ finishing coat will hide it completely.

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Looking really good, well done that man!

The decals have settled really well, the panel lines are great and that yellow finish! Really envious... it was Tamiya acrylic, yes?

Edit: Found the answer in post #64, thanks. A pretty complex mix!

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That's fantastic! Great work with the decals and brilliant paint work. Hope mine can get that close... What were you doing for 20 years... As it would appear its helped your get ready for this!

Rob

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I've never bothered, although I usually only use the red one (what is the difference, btw). By the time I've left it overnight to work its magic, there's no noticeable residue, and a brush full of Clear followed eventually by a flat coat (which might apply before as well as after weathering if I need to give powders something to grip) brings everything together nicely.

Hmm, well from the bottle the Micro Set goes onto the surface before the decal, the decal goes down then more Micro Set is applied. After a couple of mins when the decal has softened use a cotton bud to press down on the decal and remove excess liquid.

The Micro Sol is then applied to the decal and left to dry (do not touch the decal after application until totally dry). The Mico Sol softens the decal further and causes it to conform to irregular surfaces and helps it settle into panel lines.

A great tutorial is on Genesis Models and well worth watching

Edited by Homerlovesbeer

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Looking really good, well done that man!

The decals have settled really well, the panel lines are great and that yellow finish! Really envious... it was Tamiya acrylic, yes?

Edit: Found the answer in post #64, thanks. A pretty complex mix!

Hey :thanks:

The decals worked out nicely using Micro Set and Micro Sol. The Gunze paint is very nice to use at a thinned ratio of around 50% using Mr Hobby 110 Aqueous Colour Thinner. I give all credit to Bill for pointing me in the right direction for the paint mix, all I did was mix 50/50 then ad a splash more orange-yellow to the mix so not too complex :smartass:

Edited by Homerlovesbeer

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That's fantastic! Great work with the decals and brilliant paint work. Hope mine can get that close... What were you doing for 20 years... As it would appear its helped your get ready for this!

Rob

Rob that is very kind of you to be so complementary. If you've seen my last effort I posted somewhere in this thread when I was about 17 you must be correct in saying the rest of the years were spent learning and educating myself for this lol :winkgrin:

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That looks superb!

Thanks Jim, I've still got to put a coat of clear on it, weather it and then a final mat coating. I hope the end result works out ok as I'm learning as I go. I've never even used an airbrush before this model apart from when I was a teen using a crappy glass bottom pot job that required an air can to use. I think I went through 2 cans of air before abandoning the whole thing as the paint job from that airbrush was terrible and 2, I couldn't afford any more cans of air :lol:

The only complaint with the decals would be the two leading edge yellow decals on both wings. They are far too thick and plasticy to conform around the wing without a fair bit of help and lots of micro sol. If I was to do it again I'd spray it like Bill did, I think it would end up being easier and look better!

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Hi Trav,

I just spotted your build thread this evening. Welcome 'back' and I hope you're enjoying yourself. Don't get to serious about wringing your hands over minor issues. There's always the next build to get it just right. If you find you still have 'a thing' for the Zero, and you've built up a little more confidence, you might want to try one of the Tamiya 1/72 Zeros. They are gold. Almost a dozen parts in the cockpit alone. As I think you are discovering, the Gunze paints are a dream to airbrush. I 'converted' to them in the last few years after being a 'Model Master enamels man' since my early 20s.

I like your choice of kits for your 'initial stash'. I am a Bf 110 fancier of the Eduard variety. You'll find them exquisite kits. The new tool Airfix kits are very cooperative and buildable kits. Great choices ! I think all but the Curtis Hawk are new tools.

As someone stole a favourite saying of mine earlier in your thread - "Well done that man" !

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Thanks Jim, I've still got to put a coat of clear on it, weather it and then a final mat coating. I hope the end result works out ok as I'm learning as I go. I've never even used an airbrush before this model apart from when I was a teen using a crappy glass bottom pot job that required an air can to use. I think I went through 2 cans of air before abandoning the whole thing as the paint job from that airbrush was terrible and 2, I couldn't afford any more cans of air :lol:

The only complaint with the decals would be the two leading edge yellow decals on both wings. They are far too thick and plasticy to conform around the wing without a fair bit of help and lots of micro sol. If I was to do it again I'd spray it like Bill did, I think it would end up being easier and look better!

It's usually better to spray them I think; if you go down that road, I suggest you spray the area white first, as yellow is a particularly difficult color to get good coverage for. On a white background, it works quite well. Then mask it and do the rest of the painting.

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Does anybody know the best way to clean up the Micro Sol/Set off the model prior to a gloss coast and weathering?

Don't use Windex or any solution with ammonia in it - that does a nice job of removing Gunze Aqueous. Don't ask me how I know. While it's true that the overcoats will hide it, I have several models built back in the 80s that have some yellow/brown stains near the periphery of the decals. Is it the decal solvent residue yellowing with age? Is it the decal adhesive? I have no clue, but I think it's not a bad idea to clean the surfaces after the decals have dried. I mix up a solution of water with a couple of drops of dish cleaning soap, and apply with an ear bud. Then plain water to remove any soap, and dry with a lint free towel.

The model is looking great!

Cheers,

Bill

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Thanks for the tip Bill, I can understand the potential link you could envisage between the yellowing and decal setting solution.

I'll keep my windex well away from my Zero as well, I don't need any other dramas :)

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Thanks my friend, some good advice to follow I'd say.

What are your thoughts on progress so far?

Most impressed by your progress after such a long absence. You clearly 'have a feel for it' as the former Irish Chief Designer I worked for used to say :winkgrin:

A couple of other things to throw into the mix, Trav..............

Windex is fabulous for stripping acrylics from painted parts/assemblies. Similarly, an ammonia based windscreen washing solution will do the same for you. I recently had the need to strip four assembled Airfix Blenheim cockpits and a soak in the stuff for a couple of hours, a brisk shake and rinse/dry, had them ready to go for the paint again.

By the way, this is the same reason I don't use Humbrol's Maskol liquid masking agent on acrylics, as having a similar make up, I found it leaves a 'footprint' behind on the paint once removed.

On the matter of 'stains' from Micro Sol/Set, I've used cotton buds dampened with warm water to remove such minor blemishes.

All this 'stuff' will become second nature to you soon anyway :winkgrin:

Edited by A30_737_AEW&C

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Undercarriage installed and a coat of Pledge has been applied. Can someone please advise on the order of the final weathering? Do I go the chipping effect with a silver paint then apply a wash or the other way around?



Sorry about the poor night lighting pics


Thanks!


Pledge%20coat_zpsdbpyekg8.jpg


Pledge%20coat%202_zps5ovjx31b.jpg

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I forgot to ask what I should weather it with.

I was think of using this method as the shops near me have pretty much bugger all available.

Also if I stuff up is it safe to remove the oils, acrylic chipping etc without damaging the gloss coat of Pledge? If so what do I use?

How long after gloss coating should I wait before weathering?

Finally should the final coat for the Zero be matt or semi gloss?

Thanks everyone :)

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This is my personal preference, but:

1) No wash in Airfix panel lines, they are oversized as they are, and don't need any more attention drawing to them. Maybe on control surface breaks and other major gaps.

2) If you do use a wash, make sure it's an enamel, then if necessary you can remove most of it with enamel thinners without damaging the Klear - test first on scrap!

3) Matt finish.

4) Be careful with chipping - it's very, very easy to make it look terrible, especially with a 'bright' silver. I'd leave it as it is, or at the most, after the matt coat has dried, dot around selected panel lines with a silver/grey pencil, and re-coat with matt to seal it. It's something I use very sparingly on my own models, because I find it difficult to get looking right.

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She's looking very nice so far Homer, and, a great haul of kits and modeling equipment to set you on the way!

Cheers :)

Martin

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This is my personal preference, but:

Thanks for the advice. What do you think about a pin wash/oil wash in selected areas?

What weathering effects should I use to give the Zero something other than a factory fresh appearance?

Thanks for the enamel info too.

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She's looking very nice so far Homer, and, a great haul of kits and modeling equipment to set you on the way!

Cheers :)

Martin

Thanks Martin, it falls a long way short from your tree of excellence (your Arado is amazing workmanship) but hopefully I can improve my skills enough over my next kits to at least be in the same orchard :D

How would you weather my Zero, what techniques and effects?

Thanks for your input, it is appreciated!

Edited by Homerlovesbeer

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