First build in 20 years! Airfix Mitsubishi A6M2b Zero 1:72

[sroubos]

I think that looks really good! How much of that is due to the preshading and how much is post shading? I've never done the latter, but it appears to be quite subtle and at the same time really breaks up the green effectively.

[Homerlovesbeer]

Thanks Sroubos, it's all post shading. I wasted my time pre shading the top as the paint is dark and I messed up applying it too heavily.

I simply made my paint a touch lighter in shade and airbrushed all the panels without painting the panel lines.

It didn't take that long either, just a steady hand and a very fine spray. My needle is 3.5 so it is possible with my airbrush however I had to have the nozzle quite close to get it fine enough.

Glad you like it

[CedB]

Side (or back) track. I've just recommended to another newcomer that they buy Swann Morton scalpels for canopies (and other stuff).

I bought a Swann Morton retractable blade (£5) and a box of No 9 blades (£10 for 100). In fact I got two handles and a box of straight 10A blades too. They're great (and cheaper than the hobby knives most people use). Paul at Modelling Tools provides good service and has them here.

HTH.

[Bordfunker]

Nice job on the post shade.

I always find this technique works better than pre-shading on IJN green schemes.

Karl

[dr_gn]

I think a coat of decent matt will take it to yet another level - and solve the undersides issue.

Then again sometimes matt makes colours 'pop', other times it makes them blend...or at least that's the way it goes with mine!

[Navy Bird]

Looks good, I like it! I agree that a coat of matt varnish will make it look better. It did for me, and mine was pretty much the same technique as yours.

Cheers,

Bill

[CedB]

I bought a Swann Morton retractable blade (£5) and a box of No 9 blades (£10 for 100).

Paul at Modelling Tools provides good service and has them here.

HTH.

Sorry guys, the curved ones are No 6, not 9, I had the box upside down (doh!)

[Homerlovesbeer]

Nice job on the post shade.

I always find this technique works better than pre-shading on IJN green schemes.

Karl

Looks good, I like it!

Cheers,

Bill

Thanks Karl and Bill, I'm glad u both like it

I think a coat of decent matt will take it to yet another level - and solve the undersides issue.

Then again sometimes matt makes colours 'pop', other times it makes them blend...or at least that's the way it goes with mine!

Thanks mate.

Yep I'm hoping the matt coat will really give an even tone to the Zero and fix the Tamiya problem.

I've not had a chance to work on it today however perhaps that is best. Give the paint longer to dry to avoid any future masking issues lol.

Edited April 21, 2015 by Homerlovesbeer

[Homerlovesbeer]

Guys what is considered the best matt product to finish my Zero with?

Ta

[sroubos]

I use Vallejo matt varnish. You can thin it with some water or isopropyl alcohol because it is quite thick from the bottle. Alternatively, you can mix it with Future (there it is again) to get a satin finish.

Edited April 22, 2015 by sroubos

[06/24]

I don't have experience of finishing over Mr Hobby, but Humbrol aerosol matt acrylic has worked well for me, most of the time. I used to swear by Testors dullcoat but my current tin is rubbish! I suspect the cognoscenti use a Gunze product anyway?

[dr_gn]

I went through a series of disasters with airbrushed matt varnishes (not matt/drying dusty/drying with a white residue).

After seeing some awesome AFV models at a show, and asking which varnish the builder used, I always now use Humbrol Matt Acrylic Spray can #49.

Shake it well, use in a warm room, and most important of all use a very THIN coat (or two)! I've never had an issue in about 10 models over several years with this product.

[Homerlovesbeer]

Thanks guys,

There's a thread on here where people are using Winsor and Newton Galeria matt varnish with excellent results. Have any of you tried that?

http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234978222-recommendations-for-an-acrylic-matt-varnish/

http://www.winsornewton.com/na/shop/oils-mediums-varnishes-and-solvents/acrylic-colour/varnishes/galeria-matt-varnish-2-53-us-fl-oz-75ml-bottle-3022802

Edited April 22, 2015 by Homerlovesbeer

[06/24]

I went through a series of disasters with airbrushed matt varnishes (not matt/drying dusty/drying with a white residue).

After seeing some awesome AFV models at a show, and asking which varnish the builder used, I always now use Humbrol Matt Acrylic Spray can #49.

Shake it well, use in a warm room, and most important of all use a very THIN coat (or two)! I've never had an issue in about 10 models over several years with this product.

Wholeheartedly agree with the suggestions here.

Thanks guys,

There's a thread on here where people are using Winsor and Newton Galeria matt varnish with excellent results. Have any of you tried that?

http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234978222-recommendations-for-an-acrylic-matt-varnish/

http://www.winsornewton.com/na/shop/oils-mediums-varnishes-and-solvents/acrylic-colour/varnishes/galeria-matt-varnish-2-53-us-fl-oz-75ml-bottle-3022802

Not tried it I'm afraid.

[Homerlovesbeer]

Engine is on and painted and I'm pretty happy with the "blue hue black" that I achieved.

I think I'm ready for a coat of "Pledge" then decals

Edited April 23, 2015 by Homerlovesbeer

[johnd]

Thanks guys,

There's a thread on here where people are using Winsor and Newton Galeria matt varnish with excellent results. Have any of you tried that?

http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234978222-recommendations-for-an-acrylic-matt-varnish/

http://www.winsornewton.com/na/shop/oils-mediums-varnishes-and-solvents/acrylic-colour/varnishes/galeria-matt-varnish-2-53-us-fl-oz-75ml-bottle-3022802

Yes, I use it. Excellent stuff.

John.

[dr_gn]

Do you need another coat of varnish before decals? It already looks far more glossy than mine do pre-decalling. I just use Klear locally, wicked under decals with visible carrier film as and where necessary, followed by an overcoat to blend everything in.

Every layer of paint/varnish reduces surface definition a bit, and adds risk of getting runs/flaws.

[Homerlovesbeer]

Well dr_gn I really don't know. Perhaps I can simply decal now then coat with clear ready to weather?

[Homerlovesbeer]

Yes, I use it. Excellent stuff.

John.

Thanks John :-)

[sroubos]

I agree, it looks nice and shiny enough for decalling!

[Homerlovesbeer]

Well decalling will be done today hopefully, however I've got a cold currently so depends on how I feel.

Edited April 23, 2015 by Homerlovesbeer

[Homerlovesbeer]

Decals on top done, just underneath to go. It's starting to look more like a Zero now It was hard Yakka trudging through the decal sheet while fighting off the flu feeling like rubbish

[Mick Drover]

Nice job there. I've gone down hard with the clergy too. Sorry I didn't call you to arrange last weekend.

What's next on the cards?

[Homerlovesbeer]

No worries Mick. I'll shoot you a text or call you tomorrow and have a chat

I'm reasonably happy with my effort so far considering it's been about 23 years since I last had a crack at a kit.

Next would be a coat of Pledge\Klear then weathering. I'm a tad apprehensive about spraying the gloss coat as I'd be gutted if I ruined it.

Edited April 24, 2015 by Homerlovesbeer

[Mick Drover]

Sounds good. Give me a call after 10.

Just go easy with the gloss coats. Light/ multiple coats. It won't matter if it ends up with a bit of tooth as it well help the weathering/oils etc. hold on to the surface.