Homerlovesbeer Posted April 3, 2015 Author Share Posted April 3, 2015 Casey Eduard charge a min of $27 for postage. Davek72 thanks for the comments! I'm happy you like it. What will you do for your return piece? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackAck Posted April 3, 2015 Share Posted April 3, 2015 Hey thanks for the kind words. How long have you been "away" for? Since I discovered girls, or about 15 years. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homerlovesbeer Posted April 5, 2015 Author Share Posted April 5, 2015 (edited) Oh dammit! I've been working on other parts of the kit and now see that I cannot attach the tank under my Zero as there isn't a cutout for it. Was I supposed to cut this out before gluing the wings on? If I was, the instructions didn't tell me! Compared to Bill's Edited April 5, 2015 by Homerlovesbeer 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob G Posted April 5, 2015 Share Posted April 5, 2015 As much as it annoys me to do it (I'd rather buy local), I find that Hannants in the UK are a really good source for Australian-based modellers - they stock just about everything, and their postage rates are cheap. I tend to make up a biggish order and get a big box sent every so often, a few kits and lots of little bits and pieces, which don't add to the postage. The Eduard mask set, delivered, is $14.45. Which would be less per piece if you added some extra mask sets. www.hannants.co.uk Doing well on the build so far, and that's quite a stash for a beginner! Welcome back, great to see some more Down Under people in here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homerlovesbeer Posted April 5, 2015 Author Share Posted April 5, 2015 (edited) Thanks Rob. I've gone ahead and masked the canopy using Mr Masking Sol R. I figure if I bugger it up I can buy a whole new kit for $10. Honestly I think the masks are far too expensive when the whole kit is the price it is. I removed Micks work and had a crack at it myself (sorry Mick). I'll spray soon and see how it looks. I think it will be good enough. Edited April 5, 2015 by Homerlovesbeer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob G Posted April 5, 2015 Share Posted April 5, 2015 I have to agree with you re the mask prices, but once you've used one for Hurricane, P-40, Bf109 etc canopies (you know, those early ones with hundreds of little pains (sic)), it's difficult to go back to the time consuming, frustrating, inaccurate method of sticking tape on and cutting out around the edges of tiny bits. I've recently used a mask set on a Hasegawa P-40 that has canopy lines so fine that there's no way I could cut to them, even using Bare Metal foil - the Eduard mask set was a real sanity saver there. Like all things, choose what you use for any particular task - modern jets bubbles don't need masks, imo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homerlovesbeer Posted April 5, 2015 Author Share Posted April 5, 2015 I can imagine Rob! Canopy masked with Mr Masking Sol R so I hope this works ok (it took quite a bit of time) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markleecarter Posted April 5, 2015 Share Posted April 5, 2015 I know masks are very popular for canopies but just as good a result can be obtained with a paintbrush. You don't even need a really steady hand because any ovetspill is easily removed with the point of a cocktail stick. It's hourses for courses but I find applying the masks in just the right place more difficult than just painting the frames with a hairy stick! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homerlovesbeer Posted April 5, 2015 Author Share Posted April 5, 2015 Good point! I'm sure I'll need to tidy up a bit with a cocktail stick but the effort is hopefully worth it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homerlovesbeer Posted April 8, 2015 Author Share Posted April 8, 2015 (edited) Pre Shading done....holy heck this is time consuming! I did the top first so by the time I did underneath I did a better job....should have done the reverse I had to play around with pressure. I started at 25 psi and ended up at around 18psi. I also think I probably thinned the paint just a little too much as well but it seemed to work ok. Edited April 8, 2015 by Homerlovesbeer 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Val Posted April 8, 2015 Share Posted April 8, 2015 Really taking shape 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sroubos Posted April 8, 2015 Share Posted April 8, 2015 Probably too late regarding masks but I've just placed an order with these guys: http://www.super-hobby.com/ They sell the Zero mask for GBP3,06 and charge 3,31 shipping from Poland. Works out at around 12,35 AUD. The best thing is that their shipping cost stays pretty stable if you get more masks, so that might be a good alternative. They are certainly cheaper than Hannants - even for me, and I live in the UK! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homerlovesbeer Posted April 8, 2015 Author Share Posted April 8, 2015 Thanks Scrobus....I may end up getting some still. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homerlovesbeer Posted April 10, 2015 Author Share Posted April 10, 2015 (edited) The underneath is now sprayed and I'm quite pleased with the result. The pre shading can only just be seen through the colour after lots of very fine misting coats. I "borrowed" the correct paint from bill's build although I ended up using a slightly different ratio of 5:4 of Mr Hobby (Gunze) H24 Orange-Yellow and H34 My Hobby (Gunze) Cream Yellow, probably as I think my paint ended up a tad on the dull cream side at 50/50 ratio originally so I added a little more of the Orange-Yellow. I took the Zero outdoors under natural light so the pre shading is more visible Gear doors done Edited April 10, 2015 by Homerlovesbeer 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sroubos Posted April 10, 2015 Share Posted April 10, 2015 (edited) Lovely job... it's easy to lose the preshading but it looks pretty good in the second picture. It's a shame there is no correct color match available for this trainer yellow. Edited April 10, 2015 by sroubos 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homerlovesbeer Posted April 10, 2015 Author Share Posted April 10, 2015 Thanks sroubos, now it's dried properly the pre shading looks better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homerlovesbeer Posted April 13, 2015 Author Share Posted April 13, 2015 Hi again guys, I've finished painted a base silver on the gear doors and fuselage ready for painting the "aotake." The prop is done....black on the back and silver on the front......I'm please with the results. Bombs away I'll be spraying the "aotake" this arvo hopefully. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homerlovesbeer Posted April 13, 2015 Author Share Posted April 13, 2015 OK Tamiya tape has ruined my paintwork! I am staggered beyond belief! The paint was allowed to dry at least 2-3 days before applying the tape. The tape was on for about 48 hours. What have I done wrong? How can I fix this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sroubos Posted April 13, 2015 Share Posted April 13, 2015 (edited) Hmmmm I've had this as well with some Gunze gloss paints, but I thought it was because I didn't let it dry long enough. I solved it by gentle polishing the surface with some micro mesh or other 2000+ grid sandpaper. After decaling and a coat of future it's gone. The learning seems to be to apply a coat of future before masking. Edited April 13, 2015 by sroubos Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homerlovesbeer Posted April 13, 2015 Author Share Posted April 13, 2015 I'm absolutely gutted. I am not experienced enough on fixing this sort of stuff. If only I'd known but guys use Tamiya tape to mask all the time without dramas so I just didn't expect this! In Aus you can't get future either Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sroubos Posted April 13, 2015 Share Posted April 13, 2015 (edited) It looks worse than it is - this is how you learn For future, you can use kleer, or whatever other alternative you have in Oz. I have bought it as Pledge, Parket Plus, HG wooden floor cleaner, it's all the same stuff, essentially an acrylic floor polish. Don't be confused by the name or people saying you need 'real' future, all this stuff is the same. It's a rather essential bottle in a modeller's arsenal. It can be used for: - gloss coat before decals to prevent silvering - shine-restoring coating for transparencies (just dip in the stuff and leave to dry) - protective coating for transparencies to prevent paint creep under masking (mask transparency using tape, spray or paint future over it, then apply required color) - decal setting solution for really nasty thick decals - for satin or matt coat (with satin or matt finish paints added) - cleaning floors! I googled for Australian alternatives, you may see a name you recognize. The stuff or its identical cousins are available through most supermarkets. https://www.google.co.uk/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=future%20floor%20polish%20alternative%20australia Edited April 13, 2015 by sroubos Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homerlovesbeer Posted April 13, 2015 Author Share Posted April 13, 2015 (edited) Hi sroubos, All those alternatives no longer exist in Aus....it's gone forever The paint did not lift at all. I primed using AKprimer. It's more like the paint has tape residue on it, or even more like the tape has chemically damaged and imprinted the tape pattern into the paint. There was absolutely no paint on the actual tape when I removed it. I just double check the bin again.....nothing. It's unbelievable I'm so disheartened at the moment Edited April 13, 2015 by Homerlovesbeer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StephenCJ Posted April 13, 2015 Share Posted April 13, 2015 long life exits in woolies in a yellow bottle, I saw some on Sunday. ebay http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Pledge-Floor-Care-Multi-Surface-Floor-Finish-798ml-Free-Postage-/221483534413?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item339172884d Stephen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homerlovesbeer Posted April 13, 2015 Author Share Posted April 13, 2015 (edited) Thanks Casey, I've also looked but my Woolies came up empty. What do you mean by "long life exits"? Edited April 13, 2015 by Homerlovesbeer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colin Posted April 13, 2015 Share Posted April 13, 2015 It's not the tape reacting that's caused the problem, Gunze paints take longer to fully harden than a lot of people realize, yes their touch dry fairly quickly, but that doesn't mean their cured,What you have is not a reaction but the impression of the tape in the paint. Leave it to harden off, then micromesh it back, wet sand and apply another thinned coat of the paint over the damaged area, building up the layers slowly, It can be saved honest, I have done the exact same thing, it's a learning curve that we all go through. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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