TEMPESTMK5 Posted May 24, 2015 Share Posted May 24, 2015 Good afternoon Jason Good job keep going that way .. Patrice Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jasonb13 Posted June 1, 2015 Author Share Posted June 1, 2015 Thanks Patrice! Finally, a little update. Not much, but it's a start, and good to be back at the bench again. After some deliberating I decided to paint the yellow stripes and red cowling first, and then mask it off for the camo, mainly because the yellow really won't cover the grey/olive drab very well. Anyhow, here's how it looks now, next job is to mask the stripes/cowling and then paint the Neutral Grey. As well as it being the underside colour, I'm also going to use it as the upper camo colour. It's uncertain what colour grey that was, but one suggestion was that it was the same as the underside, and that's easiest as it's the same colour for both, so I'm going with that! Hopefully get it done over the next couple of days, I need to get this build finished soon as I've another GB that I'm in that I haven't even started yet, and yet another GB that's starting this weekend! J. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jasonb13 Posted June 3, 2015 Author Share Posted June 3, 2015 Two updates in a week, I'm doing well! I'm actually off work this week, so I'm hoping to push ahead with this a bit. After masking up the yellow/red sections, I then did two coats of the 'Neutral Grey'. Once that was done, I started on my latest technique to try to get decent brush painted freehand camo. As any brush painter will know, this is a tough paint job to do well, as the freehand curves lend themselves to paint getting too thick along the edges, and it's very hard to get that 'soft feathered' look. Splinter camo (using masking tape) or all one colour is far easier for us brush painters! Myself and another modeller on IMPS Ireland came up with this technique and it worked really well for him so I thought it was my turn to give it a go. Firstly I did the lighter camo colour as I'd normally paint it, not too worried about having smooth edges as it will be slightly over-painted by the darker colour. Then I used a pencil to mark out the demarcation lines. That left me with this: So far so easy. The harder part was the darker camo colour. Firstly, as with all brush painting, nicely thinned paint is key. Then I used a wide soft flat brush to fill in the main areas, before using a smaller soft flat brush to brush up to the edges of the pencil, barely going over it to cover it (which I tested first of course, no-one wants an aircraft with pencil all over it!). This job was almost more dry-brushing really, with very little paint on the brush, so it's rather time consuming. But that will hopefully stop the paint getting too thick, and hopefully also give an approximation of the soft feathered edge. I say hopefully because I've only done one coat so far, and I'm not 100% yet how well it's turning out. I'm letting that coat dry well before doing the second coat and then seeing how I feel. But here's how it looks now, and hopefully later I'll be able to show the second coat, without the masking tape: More later hopefully! J. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TEMPESTMK5 Posted June 3, 2015 Share Posted June 3, 2015 Good afternoon Jason It must be my poor old eyes but I see your darker grey green and your lighter camo grey blue .. Patrice Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jasonb13 Posted June 3, 2015 Author Share Posted June 3, 2015 Hi Patrice, The lighter grey looks a bit grey-blue in the pics alright, but not in real life. Not sure about the Olive Drab colour though, I don't really see green with that, more browny, basically, well, Olive Drab I suppose! J. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TEMPESTMK5 Posted June 3, 2015 Share Posted June 3, 2015 Hi Patrice, The lighter grey looks a bit grey-blue in the pics alright, but not in real life. Not sure about the Olive Drab colour though, I don't really see green with that, more browny, basically, well, Olive Drab I suppose! J. Hi Jason There is nothing better than wtaching models in real life , pics always change colors ... Good job you have done so far keep going that way .. Patrice 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jasonb13 Posted June 3, 2015 Author Share Posted June 3, 2015 And another update for today, probably the last. I got the second coat done and took the masking tape off. Some touch-ups are needed, but I'm actually pretty happy with it, it's easily the best free-hand camo I've brush painted anyhow! With a bit of luck I'll get the touch-ups done tonight and get started on the first coat of gloss. As always at this stage, I need to not get too carried away with gloss/decals/weathering etc. and forget I still have ordinance and undercarriage to do! J. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jasonb13 Posted June 3, 2015 Author Share Posted June 3, 2015 Just a quick question. Any idea how to fade the yellow paint a little? I'll be putting a wash on the airframe so it won't be as 'clean and new' but I would like to make it a bit faded if possible. I was thinking I could use some dry brushed Olive Drab and Gray to show some chipped paint, but that's not really faded though. Thanks in advance... J. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
06/24 Posted June 3, 2015 Share Posted June 3, 2015 White oil or gouache dotted on then brushed out should fade it. Or try the sand humbrol weathering powder which look bright yellow but can fade yellow paint if used sparingly 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jasonb13 Posted June 3, 2015 Author Share Posted June 3, 2015 Nice one! Would I use the Oil/Gouache before or after gloss coat/decals? J. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
06/24 Posted June 3, 2015 Share Posted June 3, 2015 I'd say before if you want an even finish, although I expect either works. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jasonb13 Posted June 3, 2015 Author Share Posted June 3, 2015 Cool, thanks for the advice, I'll look into it. Any tips on which is easier to use, which is better over acrylic paint etc.? Thanks... J. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
06/24 Posted June 3, 2015 Share Posted June 3, 2015 I've only ever used gouache, you can see the effects and a mini almost tutorial on my AVG Hawk build here: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234975779-avg-hawk-81-a-2/?p=1899432 With the Hawk I used a mix of colours, to get the dusty effect, whereas just for fading I would use the white alone. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jasonb13 Posted June 3, 2015 Author Share Posted June 3, 2015 Well now, that's an excellent little tutorial, thanks so much! Makes it very easy for me to give it a go. I see you did it after you'd applied decals and Klear. I'll look at getting some white Gouache tomorrow, thanks! J. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
06/24 Posted June 3, 2015 Share Posted June 3, 2015 Yes, after in my case as it was to simulate dust, for fading, I might be tempted to do it before, if the Klear washes out the effect too much you can always add some more. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jasonb13 Posted June 4, 2015 Author Share Posted June 4, 2015 Hmmm... Another question! The Tamiya kit comes with two wheel hubs, the small photo below shows them: One is 'spoked' and one is 'covered'. Anyhow, I don't know which one to use. The only photo I have of aircraft '13' (which Patrice supplied here: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234978509-tamiya-172-p-47d-razorback/?p=1929419 ) is very unclear. You can see the 'spoked' wheel in the top photo of a different aircraft, but it's not clear in the bottom photo which wheel '13' has. That said, and I may be fooling myself, but I believe I can see enough of the starboard wheel under the wing of aircraft '13' (it's just behind the trailing edge of the drop tank) that you can't see the shadow of spokes, so I think it might be the covered one. Just looking for a 2nd opinion really, could someone have a look and see what they think? I've also realised I don't have the right propeller. According to the decals (and that photo of '13' confirms it) '13' had a Hamilton prop (distinguished by a blunt nose cone). I believe Tamiya's kits have 2 versions of the Curtiss prop. However, I think I'll just choose the larger version (as the Hamilton prop was 13' in size, same as the larger Curtiss) and try to sand down the nose cone to make it blunt. It'll at least 'look' right... Thanks... J. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
06/24 Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 Can't help on the wheels, but does the Academy kit have the Hamilton prop? If so I might have a spare in the stash I could fire over Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jasonb13 Posted June 4, 2015 Author Share Posted June 4, 2015 I found a Academy 1:72 P-47D kit online that has both a Curtiss and a Hamilton prop, but I don't know if that's the kit you have. If your kit has two Props and one of them has a long pointy spinner and the other is more blunt, then the blunt one is the Hamilton prop, and if you don't want it I'd be delighted to take it off you! Let me know, thanks... J. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
06/24 Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 So not this: P47 Props by jongwinnett, on Flickr But this: P47 Props by jongwinnett, on Flickr Assuming the second one is what you are after, PM me your address and I'll pop it in the post. Apologies that its off the sprue and had a coat of Halfords primer, I started the build way, way back but got sidetracked. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TEMPESTMK5 Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 Good evening Jason Regarding the propeller this might help you http://p47.kitmaker.net/modules.php?op=modload&name=SquawkBox&file=index&req=viewtopic&topic_id=128328 I don't know if 13 had 'spoked' or 'covered'.wheels but I can see a belly tank on the pics I posted .. Patrice Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jasonb13 Posted June 4, 2015 Author Share Posted June 4, 2015 @0624: Yep, that second prop us perfect, and don't apologise about the primer, it saves me doing it! If you're sure don't need it I'd be very happy to take it, I'll send you a PM. @Patrice: Thanks for that link. Yep, I can see the drop tank on the pic of '13'. Can you see a semi-circle of the wheel hub behind the drop tank? I think if it was a 'spoked' wheel you'd see the shadows of the holes of the spokes there, you know? J. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jasonb13 Posted June 5, 2015 Author Share Posted June 5, 2015 Well, I've just tried the White Gouache on the yellow stipes, and I have to say, I'm impressed! Very quick and easy to do, and I really think it's made a difference in fading down the 'bright, brand new' look of the yellow. A couple of questions: Could you use the White Gouache on the whole airframe, fading the whole lot? Does white work with all colours (e.g. both the Grey and Olive Drab on this model)? I'm a little tempted to fade the whole model, I think it could be a relatively easy way of adding an extra 'layer' to the finished kit. But I don't want to ruin it either! J. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TEMPESTMK5 Posted June 5, 2015 Share Posted June 5, 2015 @0624: Yep, that second prop us perfect, and don't apologise about the primer, it saves me doing it! If you're sure don't need it I'd be very happy to take it, I'll send you a PM. @Patrice: Thanks for that link. Yep, I can see the drop tank on the pic of '13'. Can you see a semi-circle of the wheel hub behind the drop tank? I think if it was a 'spoked' wheel you'd see the shadows of the holes of the spokes there, you know? J. Good evening Jason Sorry my eyes are no more what they used to be i can't tell you if this aircraft had 'spoked' or 'covered'.wheel.. .. Patrice Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
06/24 Posted June 5, 2015 Share Posted June 5, 2015 Well, I've just tried the White Gouache on the yellow stipes, and I have to say, I'm impressed! Very quick and easy to do, and I really think it's made a difference in fading down the 'bright, brand new' look of the yellow. A couple of questions: Could you use the White Gouache on the whole airframe, fading the whole lot? Does white work with all colours (e.g. both the Grey and Olive Drab on this model)? I'm a little tempted to fade the whole model, I think it could be a relatively easy way of adding an extra 'layer' to the finished kit. But I don't want to ruin it either! J. Probably, but you might want to use something that tones to the underlying colour? I think it would work. However, if you use an airbrush a few drops of pale grey mixed into the varnish might just tone everything down? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jasonb13 Posted June 5, 2015 Author Share Posted June 5, 2015 Good evening Jason Sorry my eyes are no more what they used to be i can't tell you if this aircraft had 'spoked' or 'covered'.wheel.. .. Patrice No worries Patrice, I've convinced myself that it is the covered wheel! Probably, but you might want to use something that tones to the underlying colour? I think it would work. However, if you use an airbrush a few drops of pale grey mixed into the varnish might just tone everything down? Yeah, that's what I was thinking, just white all over might not work really well. An airbrush isn't an option for me, so I might just be happy with the faded yellow, thanks! J. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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