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AT-ST - Bandai 1/48


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:mike:

Words fail me- that's superb, Andy! Should help enormously with a wee beastie I'm working on just now. Can't see mine working out quite as 'pro', but it's certainly given me something to aim for. Thanks for sharing the build with us. :)

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Andy, thank you for this great work in progress!!


After a long absence, I was nearing completion of my Bandai 1/12 Stormtrooper but was also experiencing a few fractures. I would have never thought it was due to mineral spirits until I read this thread. It just didn't seem like a wash could weaken the plastic given that I had primer, layers of tamiya acrylic, and a Future gloss coat protecting the plastic from the wash.


As a test, I dipped a piece of Bandai sprue into some mineral spirits (Varsol from a local Walmart) for 2 hours. When I took out the sprue and scraped it against the side of the bowl holding the mineral spirits, a layer of the plastic scraped off to my horror.


Andy, how are you going to avoid using mineral spirits for future kits? I would like to use acrylic washes but with acrylic paint and an acrylic gloss coat, I don't want the wash to affect the layers of paint below.
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As a test, I dipped a piece of Bandai sprue into some mineral spirits (Varsol from a local Walmart) for 2 hours. When I took out the sprue and scraped it against the side of the bowl holding the mineral spirits, a layer of the plastic scraped off to my horror.
Andy, how are you going to avoid using mineral spirits for future kits? I would like to use acrylic washes but with acrylic paint and an acrylic gloss coat, I don't want the wash to affect the layers of paint below.

Thanks ronl

It does seem as though Bandai's styrene is particularly sensitive to spirit washes and I guess that even with a primer and clear coat on, the capillary nature of enamel washes will find any gaps.

As to using acrylic washes, I don't usually have any problems with them affecting previous paint layers. My main issue is the drying time and avoiding tide marks. I've got the Y-Wing on pre-order, so when that turns up, I'm going to see if I can do it all with acrylics. It'll be an interesting experiment if nothing else as I'm used to weathering with oils and enamels.

Andy

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  • 5 months later...

WOW!!!

Can you tell me the height of the AT-ST's please? Don't know whether to buy 1 or 2!!

Thanks & ATB.....

Sorry to interrupt... the AT-ST is around 17-20 centimeters (it depends of the position of the legs). Buy em all !!!!

Edited by JMMendes
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WOW!!!

Can you tell me the height of the AT-ST's please? Don't know whether to buy 1 or 2!!

Thanks & ATB.....

Thanks Riggers

As JMMendes said above, around 18cm or 7" on average although the legs will extend further. The pic below show it better

16738966440_78faf276e2_b.jpg

If you can get two, you should. There's plenty of options for expanded universe paint schemes. I'll be picking some more up in due course

Andy

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  • 1 year later...

Andy, I absolutely love your walker.  It is just phenomenal.  I would love it if you could give me a few weathering tips.  More specifically how you did the mid section on the walker as well as the muddy look on the feet.  Thanks in advance!

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8 hours ago, amr.rich said:

Andy, I absolutely love your walker.  It is just phenomenal.  I would love it if you could give me a few weathering tips.  More specifically how you did the mid section on the walker as well as the muddy look on the feet.  Thanks in advance!

 

Thanks, glad you like it,

 

Regarding the weathering, the mid section was weathered with enamel washes. I generally use thicker washes (AMMO engine grime is a favourite) as shading around panels and details. I'll paint the wash around the detail areas, then blend away the edge with a soft brush.

The mud on the feet was done by applying a slurry of earth coloured pigment mixed with white spirit. You need to be a little careful with the white spirit though, as this is where I had problems with the plastic cracking. As an alternative, you can dilute the pigment with enamel thinner or pigment fixer, both of which should be a little more gentle on the plastic.

Another option for mud is to brush some acrylic resin (Vallejo make this, as do other companies), then stipple dry pigment onto it. Once it's dry it leaves a very realistic crusty earth look.

 

Andy

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On 5/22/2017 at 4:17 PM, AndyRM101 said:

 

Thanks, glad you like it,

 

Regarding the weathering, the mid section was weathered with enamel washes. I generally use thicker washes (AMMO engine grime is a favourite) as shading around panels and details. I'll paint the wash around the detail areas, then blend away the edge with a soft brush.

The mud on the feet was done by applying a slurry of earth coloured pigment mixed with white spirit. You need to be a little careful with the white spirit though, as this is where I had problems with the plastic cracking. As an alternative, you can dilute the pigment with enamel thinner or pigment fixer, both of which should be a little more gentle on the plastic.

Another option for mud is to brush some acrylic resin (Vallejo make this, as do other companies), then stipple dry pigment onto it. Once it's dry it leaves a very realistic crusty earth look.

 

Andy

Great, thank you for the advice. I have quite a few of star wars bandai kits sitting in the cabinet and the AT-ST is what I'll be doing next. I haven't been doing these model kits for very long so I am still trying to find my footing, but the techniques you use in yours are very fascinating to me! Again, thank you very much.

- Alex

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  • 1 month later...
On 5/22/2017 at 4:17 PM, AndyRM101 said:

 

Thanks, glad you like it,

 

Regarding the weathering, the mid section was weathered with enamel washes. I generally use thicker washes (AMMO engine grime is a favourite) as shading around panels and details. I'll paint the wash around the detail areas, then blend away the edge with a soft brush.

The mud on the feet was done by applying a slurry of earth coloured pigment mixed with white spirit. You need to be a little careful with the white spirit though, as this is where I had problems with the plastic cracking. As an alternative, you can dilute the pigment with enamel thinner or pigment fixer, both of which should be a little more gentle on the plastic.

Another option for mud is to brush some acrylic resin (Vallejo make this, as do other companies), then stipple dry pigment onto it. Once it's dry it leaves a very realistic crusty earth look.

 

Andy

 

Hey Andy,

Do you have any good tips on how to weather? Or know of a link to that has good tips. I feel like this is the one thing I struggle most with. I have tried weathering with acrylics and oils, both without much success. I haven't tried enamels, and would like to.

 

Thanks for the help in advance,

 

Alex

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53 minutes ago, amr.rich said:

Hey Andy,

Do you have any good tips on how to weather? Or know of a link to that has good tips. I feel like this is the one thing I struggle most with. I have tried weathering with acrylics and oils, both without much success. I haven't tried enamels, and would like to.

 

Thanks for the help in advance,

 

Alex

 

Hi Alex,

Weathering's a pretty broad subject that encompasses lots of techniques, so it would depend on what you were looking to achieve. In basic terms weathering is a way of showing the effects of the environment on the subject. That could include paint fading, chipped or worn finishes, mud and dust, grime, oil and fuel spills etc.

Let me know if there's a specific area you want some advice on, and in the mean time you could check out the youtube channels for AMMO and AK Interactive. The videos are basically adverts for their respective products, but they show the various techniques well.

 

Andy

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1 hour ago, AndyRM101 said:

 

Hi Alex,

Weathering's a pretty broad subject that encompasses lots of techniques, so it would depend on what you were looking to achieve. In basic terms weathering is a way of showing the effects of the environment on the subject. That could include paint fading, chipped or worn finishes, mud and dust, grime, oil and fuel spills etc.

Let me know if there's a specific area you want some advice on, and in the mean time you could check out the youtube channels for AMMO and AK Interactive. The videos are basically adverts for their respective products, but they show the various techniques well.

 

Andy

Andy,

I admire the weathering you did on the mid section. There are three things I struggle with: washes, line accents, and chipping. I like how your chipping appears to have crisp, sharp lines. Also, your rust color weathering blends in so perfectly and subtly with such a small area. Also, I will check out those channels for their videos. Thank you!

 

Alex

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  • 1 year later...

Hello Andy .. Great build here. I just bought my first two Bandai kits. The walker and an X-Wing/Y-wing combo. Ive bookmarked your build as i had pretty much similar ideas concerning the office and seats. Plan on doing mine as a captured Rebel LRRP in Junglie camo. Planning on adding multiple antenna’s and possibly some extra weapons. 

 

Dennis

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  • 1 month later...

Hi Andy,

 

what will happen with your Flickr album after tomorrow? Will you pay for a sub or move to a different plattform?

Would be a huge loss to lose all those pictures from all your builds.

 

Just noticed, i posted this in an old thread. 😕

Edited by Wulf
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4 hours ago, Wulf said:

what will happen with your Flickr album after tomorrow? Will you pay for a sub or move to a different plattform?

Would be a huge loss to lose all those pictures from all your builds.

Hi Wulf,

 

It won't be a problem (I hope!). I've been a pro member on Flickr for several years so nothing should change until my sub's up for renewal in June. I'll have to pay the higher sub price when it does renew, which is annoying, but at least all the old threads should stay intact.

 

Andy:cat:

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  • 3 months later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Hi Andy, Great work as always... 😲  I got to ask, you said you used pale green (RLM 02) and Panzer grey for interior highlights.. Can you remember what brand of RLM02 you used? All the ones I seem to find of that colour reference are much more 'grey' rather than 'green'.

 

thanks for all your help.

 

 

On ‎19‎/‎03‎/‎2015 at 10:22, AndyRM101 said:

16654678097_25212ee3d0_c.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

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On 20/06/2019 at 01:35, PartTimePainter said:

Can you remember what brand of RLM02 you used? All the ones I seem to find of that colour reference are much more 'grey' rather than 'green'.

 

1 hour ago, Wulf said:

I think he used Gunze H70 RLM02 Grey and the Panzer grey he's referring to is H32 Field Grey, as far as I remember from another thread.

 

Sorry for the late response. It was indeed Gunze H70 RLM 02. I also use H32 Field Grey sometimes (K-2SO was painted with that shade), but the panzer grey used here was Vallejo 862 Black Grey.

 

Andy:cat:

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On ‎21‎/‎06‎/‎2019 at 14:21, AndyRM101 said:

 

 

Sorry for the late response. It was indeed Gunze H70 RLM 02. I also use H32 Field Grey sometimes (K-2SO was painted with that shade), but the panzer grey used here was Vallejo 862 Black Grey.

 

Andy:cat:

No please don't apologise Andy, I'm only too grateful for your help and guidance. can you tell me did the interior het a was or drybrush after paining ow was that all pre-shading?

 

Cheers

Keith

 

P.S I'm currently working on a Bandai model and diorama, once its finished I'll try and post some pics....I would be very grateful to hear you C&Cs Andy

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22 hours ago, PartTimePainter said:

I'm currently working on a Bandai model and diorama, once its finished I'll try and post some pics....I would be very grateful to hear you C&Cs Andy

 

Looking forward to seeing it Keith

 

The interior did have an oil wash to bring out the detail, probably with a dark grey or something similar. There was a little dry brushing over the seat pads and instrument panels. I don't think I did any pre-shading  on the interior. The darker shading you can see around the green panels on the back wall was sprayed over the base coats with a thinned dark grey.

 

Andy:cat:

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