Jump to content

A pair of Airfix Hawks in 1/72. Finished.


Recommended Posts

1 hour ago, Fritag said:

 

And so the cockpits are a step closer to being done:

 

1ED088FC-161D-460B-94B2-4B986E00B3D8_zps

 

You can take the man out of the Hawk, but you can't take the Hawk out of the man!

  • Like 3
  • Haha 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

hi Fritag and welcome to the forum.  Feel free to tell us a bit about yourself, we're a friendly bunch here.

 

   (well, someone had to do it!  didn't they?)

 

 

 

He's only bloomin at it again i'n t he?    18 months MIA and when he dares to show face again, not only is the work flippin' immaculate (as always) but  there's not even a speck of dust on the darned thing

 

2 hours ago, Fritag said:

 

1ED088FC-161D-460B-94B2-4B986E00B3D8_zps

 

you could at least have started off with an errant brush stroke, or a smear or two of glue.  Poor show I'd say.

 

 

PS   you owe me a bag of popcorn - the last one went mouldy waiting on an update

 

 

 

 

PPS  welcome back  :tease:

 

 

  • Like 2
  • Haha 13
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Now you're back from 'walk about', a quick question before you do another vanishing act.

02DB35AC-35B0-4D29-BB03-D0F3565D2508_zps

The mold plugs at the top, are they molds of the kit canopies and if they are: What was your technique, what did you use as your medium and does it leave the original canopies blemish free?

Questions, question, I know but you're back now...welcome back.

 

Stuart

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Love the canopy moulds Steve.

I hope you remember to extend the moulding area before you mould off  them so you don't get the 'rounded off at the edges' look on any clear piece you pull.

I found I had to make the mould longer than the piece so the curved stretched corners happen deep enough in to be cut off square.

 

Anyway as we've all said, good to have you home.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Courageous said:

The mold plugs at the top, are they molds of the kit canopies and if they are: What was your technique, what did you use as your medium and does it leave the original canopies blemish free?

I sacrificed a canopy to make the mould plugs, cos (i) I removed the moulded-in framing because it never comes out crisply on home vac-forming, and (ii) I glued some 1mm sheet plastic card to the front and rear to extend the plug (as per Bill's advice above (-a lesson I learned on my Chipmunk build.....or rather I 'spect it was advice Bill gave me way back then :D)).  I then primed and polished the master until it was blemish free and cast the resin plug in the usual way using a silicone mould.

 

Thing is; is I've had problems getting good clear canopy over resin plugs in the past.  There seems to be some sort of reaction between the resin and the clear plastic which has led to discolouration of the clear plastic - so I'm not optimistic of a good outcome using the resin plugs.  But I thought I'd give it a go again as they're so easy to make 🤞

 

I tried making some other plugs with casting plaster - but the surface wasn't perfect and I ended up having to prime and polish them - and if my past experience is anything to go by the primer will melt during vac-pulling.

 

So I'm expecting a bit of a faff with the canopies tbh...........

 

  • Like 11
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Great to see you back. I have been poorly with a hiatus hernia awaiting a ph check at Addenbrookes on reflux.  Just got back from a nice break in East Yorkshire last week. Stayed at Cayton near Scarborough. visited Whitby ,Sewerby Hall, Bridlington and travelled on the North Yorks Moors steam railway Pickering to Goathland and back. Came home  via Humber Bridge first time crossing for me.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Fritag said:

So I'm expecting a bit of a faff with the canopies tbh...........

Hi, Fritag, welcome back from me too.
I remember exactly what you did for the Chipmunk canopy.

Don't worry about the withstand of the resin under the heat solicitation during thermoforming, if the master is really totally catalysed.
If you noticed in the past some effect on the clear plastic, it was probably due to some release of the "polyol" of the resin that did not truly mix with the catalyzer.
So let the master set for a pair of days, be gentle with plastic heating and quick in forming. Make sure you put (glue) the master on a flat surface only some millimeter narrower as its contour. I mean something like this, even if here the master is in one piece with the support.
This is important because, if you keep the master on top of a little rod, you may run the risk to bend it during thermoforming.
Hope this helps.

 

Bye

Eugenio

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

At it!

 

Whatever do you mean sirrah?

 

At it has massive implicatory perceptions doesn't it?

 

Should we not help the chap to ease in seamlessly rather than set his hackles on the rise?

 

Hi Steve it seems only yesterday when we last spoke on matters divers and cycle paths for the gods

 

(You see Johnny, make it seamless...)

 

 

;)

  • Like 1
  • Haha 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

11 hours ago, 72linerlover said:

If you noticed in the past some effect on the clear plastic, it was probably due to some release of the "polyol" of the resin that did not truly mix with the catalyzer.
So let the master set for a pair of days

 

I think 18 months should be sufficient?

 

 

1 hour ago, perdu said:

Should we not help the chap to ease in seamlessly rather than set his hackles on the rise?

 

this IS Britmodeller isn't it?

 

 

 

looking forward to seeing the next installment...

  • Haha 5
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I wonder would a wax & polish help to seal the plugs against any chemical interaction. :unsure: On another topic, I'll try & keep up better this time, I got severely left behind early in the thread but I put your absence to good use practising keeping up with the threads of some of the other inmates to be found herein. :)

Steve.

  • Haha 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Welcome back Steve!

Those before and after shots of the coamings are a perfect example of how dry brushing and washes can improve detail visibility and still look "real" in this scale.

 

(someone nick his bike while he's at the bench to stop him buggering off again!)

 

Ian

  • Haha 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, limeypilot said:

someone nick his bike while he's at the bench to stop him buggering off again!)

Better also nick his skis, and car keys and... well, in fact his credit card(s), the guy knows his way around the globe.... :rofl:

 

Ciao

 

  • Haha 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...