Fritag Posted December 16, 2015 Author Share Posted December 16, 2015 (edited) Pampers. Nuff said! Just long johns actually....... Very uncomfortable it was too. Ok so. I like mucking about adding cockpit bits and bobs. Might actually be avoidance behaviour - don't have to get on and make any decisions or do any real modelling like sticking fuselage halves together and painting and so on and so forth. Tonight I had a bash at making the rather large map case that's visible in the front cockpit. I think it's part map case and part cover for untidy plumbing. Anyway it has a rather prominent lid. Good old fashioned work shaping plastic strip of various sizes and adding a bit of wine bottle foil: Little bit of fettling: Slots into place: Add a bit of simplified plumbing. Enjoyable hour's modelling. Steve Edited December 16, 2015 by Fritag 17 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
giemme Posted December 16, 2015 Share Posted December 16, 2015 Can't beat wine bottle foil, can you? : winkgrin: Awesome detailing, I'm truly impressed What is the pointy tool in your second pic, please? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessica Posted December 16, 2015 Share Posted December 16, 2015 Ascoteer, on 15 Dec 2015 - 09:20 AM, said: Oi! That's sexist that is. Now that we have female aircrew you're not allowed to call it a cockpit any more, it's a Flight Deck thank you very much. Similarly it's not a joystick but a control column. Having a galley was just brilliant, sautéed kidney turbigo anyone? Having an elsan was essential - the urinals fitted to Albert were not, shall we say, female friendly! Oh? So now what will I do without being able to resort to all sorts of innuendo by innocently declaring that the most fun you can have is when you're firmly strapped down in the cockpit having a twiddle with the joystick? Batting my eyes helps to maintain the innocent tone. giemme, on 16 Dec 2015 - 2:08 PM, said: Can't beat wine bottle foil, can you? : winkgrin: Awesome detailing, I'm truly impressed What is the pointy tool in your second pic, please? It looks like a largish sewing machine needle clamped in a pin vise. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sten Ekedahl Posted December 17, 2015 Share Posted December 17, 2015 Ah the Elsan (chemical toilet).... On Albert this was mounted on the port side just aft of the ramp hinge line. It was on a lifting frame such that it could be raised to clear the ramp whenever the aircraft was being loaded. After getting airborne the Loadie would lower it to its normal operating height and draw a curtain around it. I had occasion to go down the back once to find that the Loadie, a well known Master Air Load Mistress, had had to deal with some rowdy pongoes. As a result she had not lowered the elsan, merely drawn the curtain. There was a young subaltern sitting on said elsan halfway up the freight bay wall and peering out over the top of the curtain. For more elsan stories tune in to my Albert thread... Have witnessed that prank, although in this case it involved an "elevated" elderly LtCol suffering from Montezuma's revenge and 50 "smiling" cadets (including yours truly) with only days left before graduation fron the Air Force Academy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sten Ekedahl Posted December 17, 2015 Share Posted December 17, 2015 On the subject of NACA intakes, a frind of mine has come up with a fairly simple method. Cut out the intake shape straight through the plastic. Thin the surrounding plastic on the inside, more at the front and less att the rear, using a Dremel and/or scraping with a curved blade (#10 or #15). Bevel the rear edge, and then glue a piece of PC over the hole. On the outside, eliminate the slight step at the front with a little filler (if necessary) a jewelers file. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fritag Posted December 17, 2015 Author Share Posted December 17, 2015 I think I've done all I want to do in this first tub before it gets painted. This morning I added some simplified plumbing to the front cockpit port side and made up and fitted the map case/plumbing cover to the rear cockpit starboard side. I also stripped of the rear cockpit starboard side PE console panel whilst I was at it. This panel in the T1 and T1A is practically bare yet all the PE panels I've seen including the eduard one I fitted - have etched-in lumps and bumps representing non-existent control panels and switches etc. It began to bug me so in the end replaced it using some Tamiya plastic paper in 0.2mm and 0.1mm - just a flat panel with a couple of flat featureless raised sections - covering I don't know what - like you see in the full size aircraft. Sorry the photo is rather dark but I had to reduce the brightness so that you could see the raised sections on the new rear-starboard side console panel. 12 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
perdu Posted December 17, 2015 Share Posted December 17, 2015 Looks lovely Steve That extra (we're paying for that you know) detailing crap on etch is why I didnt do any more of it on the Jags Covering it seems the best idea, I coulda used more if I'd had the sense to play it that way Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex-FAAWAFU Posted December 17, 2015 Share Posted December 17, 2015 Blimmin' 'eck, Steve. This is 1/72, right? Fabulous! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
giemme Posted December 17, 2015 Share Posted December 17, 2015 Raised sections are perfectly visible, great pic - and great detailing all over, you must be tired to read that I'm really looking forward to see some paint on this tub Blimmin' 'eck, Steve. This is 1/72, right? I do wonder the same thing, sometimes ... :D Ciao Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fritag Posted December 17, 2015 Author Share Posted December 17, 2015 What is the pointy tool in your second pic, please? It looks like a largish sewing machine needle clamped in a pin vise. Jessica is right Giorgio. It's a sewing machine needle in a pin vice. It's my favourite tool for scribing. Sufficiently rigid so that it doesn't flex too much and excellent for scribing curves and corners. That extra (we're paying for that you know) detailing crap on etch is why I didnt do any more of it on the Jags Odd aint it. Looks like I'll have the same problem on my next build as well then. Might be a while off yet tho eh? Worry about it later....... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ascoteer Posted December 17, 2015 Share Posted December 17, 2015 Wasn't the Command Eject valve on the right hand side of the aft seat at floor level? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
giemme Posted December 17, 2015 Share Posted December 17, 2015 Jessica is right Giorgio. It's a sewing machine needle in a pin vice. It's my favourite tool for scribing. Sufficiently rigid so that it doesn't flex too much and excellent for scribing curves and corners. Interesting. Do you need to sharpen it from time to time? TIA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fritag Posted December 18, 2015 Author Share Posted December 18, 2015 Wasn't the Command Eject valve on the right hand side of the aft seat at floor level? Oops. Debs - don't got there - just don't go there - that way lies madness (mine anyway) Anyways - it stands to reason that the flight deck of a 4 engine monster like the herc has lot more knobs, switches, valves and general gizmo's lurking about the place to be pointed out than does a simple little hawk. Might go off and do that very bloke-like-thing of compiling a list Interesting. Do you need to sharpen it from time to time? TIA Nope. Seems to stay sharp for a long time - and then I chuck it away and use a new one. I can't recommend it highly enough as a tool for scribing - especially for those tricky jobs using a tiny template or circles and tight curves. It'd be excellent for your AAR door as it's easy to use - with very gentle pressure to begin with - against any sort of template or against a layer or two of electrical tape or when it's not possible to secure a template very firmly to the kit surface. It leaves very slight ridges either side of the scribed line and of course it isn't a square cut - so you can finish off with perhaps a light micro mesh and an over-brush of Tamiya green cap to finish - or go over the scribed line with you favourite square-cut scriber. I use it as a bradawl to make indentations before drilling holes as well. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geedubelyer Posted December 18, 2015 Share Posted December 18, 2015 C'mon, get some paint on it. I'd like to see the fruits of your labour in glorious technicolour. Oh, wait, the Hawk cockpit (oops) tub was predominantly grey and black was n't it? So, the current version is actually more colourful, right? Hmm... Oh well, you know what I mean. I'm looking forward to seeing it all painted up. Good stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
giemme Posted December 18, 2015 Share Posted December 18, 2015 Nope. Seems to stay sharp for a long time - and then I chuck it away and use a new one. I can't recommend it highly enough as a tool for scribing - especially for those tricky jobs using a tiny template or circles and tight curves. It'd be excellent for your AAR door as it's easy to use - with very gentle pressure to begin with - against any sort of template or against a layer or two of electrical tape or when it's not possible to secure a template very firmly to the kit surface. It leaves very slight ridges either side of the scribed line and of course it isn't a square cut - so you can finish off with perhaps a light micro mesh and an over-brush of Tamiya green cap to finish - or go over the scribed line with you favourite square-cut scriber. I use it as a bradawl to make indentations before drilling holes as well. Very interesting, thanks Steve! I'm currently using a pointy brass rod for exactly the same tasks you described above, but it looses its sharpness quite quickly, even on plastic - and since I'm lazy, I often end up with poor scribing job ... Great tip, now I'll have to raid my mother-in-law sewing tools box for some needles Ciao Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fritag Posted December 18, 2015 Author Share Posted December 18, 2015 (edited) Puts aside some time this morning to prime the first tub. At the last minute I added the weapons pin storage bag, made out of plastic card and some more lead foil, to the rear bulkhead. Was going to add it after painting - but changed my mind. A couple more bits of 0.2mm lead wire plumbing slipped in as well. And then primed with Alclad II black primer/microfiller. Gonna try the tip about using paper to rub off the dark sea grey top coat to reveal the raised black instrument housings below.... Edited December 18, 2015 by Fritag 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fritag Posted December 18, 2015 Author Share Posted December 18, 2015 (edited) And then an overall coat of Humbrol 166 Dark Sea Grey. I'm not sure this was the precise colour originally used - but I made a note sometime ago of a post by Hawkkeeper where he said that matt dark sea grey is the colour they now use for paint touch-ups in the cockpit and no one notices the difference). I tried to angle the airbrush so as to leave some of the black primer showing through in the corners and darker recesses. I then lightened the mix a couple of times and tried to just catch the light attracting flat faces of the panels and tub to provide a bit of contrast. Difficult to do in this scale and the effect isn't really caught by the photo - but every little helps I'll help it along a bit later with some oil work and dry brushing. Better leave it to harden for a bit now - and then see what I can do about rubbing the grey off to reveal the black instrument surrounds - or if that doesn't work then to attempt picking out the instruments surrounds in black.... Edited December 18, 2015 by Fritag 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
perdu Posted December 18, 2015 Share Posted December 18, 2015 (edited) It's looking very istic isn't it. Real like The extra wiringplumbing etc adds a huge amount to the look, I love it Steve I will be waiting to see your deductions about the sanding with paper issue, a new string for my ancient bow if it looks as good as we expect Edited December 18, 2015 by perdu 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
giemme Posted December 18, 2015 Share Posted December 18, 2015 (edited) That looks really good under a coat of paint! :clap: I tried to angle the airbrush so as to leave some of the black primer showing through in the corners and darker recesses. I then lightened the mix a couple of times and tried to just catch the light attracting flat faces of the panels and tub to provide a bit of contrast. I usually do that when painting large figures - or better large areas on figures, for instance the cape on my last bust. To reinforce it and make it more effective, the best thing would be to give another light coat but with a (much) darker mix, spraying from underneath and moving up. Normally not really feasible on a tub, but given the specific conformation of this Hawk flight deck, you probably have room for that. I actually used this technique on the rudder pedals of my BF109 - which are quite tiny - and it does make a difference (except for the fact that once the model is finished, you can't see them any more ... ). Dark washes in some way accentuate the contrast you obtained, but at the same time they merge in quite pleasantly. Just my . Now I have to rush up a bit and get to the painting stage with my tub too Ciao Edited December 18, 2015 by giemme 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fritag Posted December 18, 2015 Author Share Posted December 18, 2015 I will be waiting to see your deductions about the sanding with paper issue ........ I'm not hopeful I'll get it to work for me here Bill. I suspect I should have left the primer longer before the top coat - to let it really harden - and I so I'm doubtful I'll be able to reveal it this way. I didn't have the patience once I got to the priming stage I think what I'll probably do is protect the grey with an acrylic clear coat and then try and pick up the instrument surrounds in black enamel using a dry brush technique. That way if I gets it wrong I should be able to take it off with a Tamiya cotton bud moistened with enamel thinner and try again. Mrs F and I are off to a Christmas Ball tonight so the paint will have a chance to harden well before I do anything more. I skived off real work somewhat today to get this done so I'll have to make that up a bit over the weekend I usually do that when painting large figures - or better large ares on figures, for instance the cape on my last bust. To reinforce it and make it more effective, the best thing would be to give another light coat but with a (much) darker mix, spraying from underneath and moving up. Normally not really feasible on a tub, but given the specific conformation of this Hawk flight deck, you probably have room for that. I actually used this technique on the rudder pedals of my BF109 - which are quite tiny - and it does make a difference (except for the fact that once the model is finished, you can't see them any more ... ). Dark washes in some way accentuate the contrast you obtained, but at the same time they merge in quite pleasantly. Just my . Now I have to rush up a bit and get to the painting stage with my tub too There are bits of contrast in the full size Hawk tub - the map cases and the weapons pin bag are black for example as are the side panels abeam the rudder pedals (which i think for real may be canvas covers to hide/protect plumbing bits and pieces various) - that'll help break it up too. The other things is that the two ejection seats take up most of the space between the instrument panels and the bulkheads - and they'll add interests as well......hopefully. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
perdu Posted December 18, 2015 Share Posted December 18, 2015 Off out tonight then, have a good un Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cookenbacher Posted December 18, 2015 Share Posted December 18, 2015 I was literally eating popcorn from one of those giant holiday tins while reading you latest cockpit tub posts. Mmm, that's good readin'. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fritag Posted December 21, 2015 Author Share Posted December 21, 2015 (edited) Creeping forward I did manage to get Robin-42's technique of gently polishing back the grey coat on the PE to reveal the black primer to work on the side panels - using a little home made sanding gizmo rather than paper - some blue micro-mesh sheet (not sure what grade but very fine) stuck to a strip of plastic card: I only thought of the sanding gizmo idea after I'd tried to polish back the grey coat on the PE instrument panels on a flat sheet of micro mesh - that didn't work as I couldn't get enough control and polished off some of the primer coat in places as well. So for the instrument panels I had to carefully paint on some black - using yellow post-it notes as masks: I'm pretty pleased with the results so far. I've done a gentle dry-brush with light grey just to see if I can get the detail to pop out a bit. Oil work and more dry brushing still to do and the instrument decal to fit behind the instrument panel: Edited December 21, 2015 by Fritag 16 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hendie Posted December 21, 2015 Share Posted December 21, 2015 ah.. the usual standards apply I see - nothing less than we've come to expect from you Steve looks very nice indeed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CedB Posted December 21, 2015 Share Posted December 21, 2015 "I'm pretty pleased with the results so far" - and so you should be Steve; very nice result, very nice indeed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now