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A pair of Airfix Hawks in 1/72. Finished.


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Why not have them 3D printed then? If you used the place that did my Hawk cowling they might look OK.

I am sure that would work but it seems like Fritag quite enjoys his scratch building and his results are as good if not better than computer designed parts.

Fritag, if you do choose to go down the 3d printing slope just give me a shout and I would be happy to CAD the wheels for you.

Cheers

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So if not 3D printing, why not use the decal sheet idea on some thin plastic card, punch or drill out the 'nuts' and then glue a backing sheet over them to form blind holes of a consistent depth. Then build up a cylindrical outer mould centralsed around the holes on the pcd. Then cast the hub in resin.

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So if not 3D printing, why not use the decal sheet idea on some thin plastic card, punch or drill out the 'nuts' and then glue a backing sheet over them to form blind holes of a consistent depth. Then build up a cylindrical outer mould centralsed around the holes on the pcd. Then cast the hub in resin.

Please, no more wheel nuts!! :) I want to see the rest of this excellent build.

I'm particularly looking forward to the cable ties,seat pins block and working radio...

Edited by Kirk
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Hi Steve, the foil deffo looks better than the plastic. FWIW, the hub looks good on my monitor. With some deft paintwork and a tidy wash the bolt head detail should really pop.

I think that rivet decals would be a great solution -

Am thinking of using some of those on the ar*e end of the Hawks tho' where there are the raised rivets around the empennage.

I'm a fan of the Archer rivets as I used them on my Hawk but I could n't find any in their catalogue that were any smaller.

An alternative is offered by HGW if you're interested. They are a slightly different version in that the backing film is peeled away leaving only the rivets in place. Also, they do rivets in the smaller scales too.

I bought some of the 1/72nd scale versions as an experiment and I can barely see them....! Whether they'll be pronounced enough for the back end of a Hawk is another matter.

http://hgwmodels.cz/en/30-172-scale

I can't offer any guidance on application as I have n't tried them yet.

I'm looking forward to seeing more in due course.

Cheers.

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I'm a fan of the Archer rivets as I used them on my Hawk but I could n't find any in their catalogue that were any smaller.

........

An alternative is offered by HGW if you're interested. They are a slightly different version in that the backing film is peeled away leaving only the rivets in place. Also, they do rivets in the smaller scales too.

I bought some of the 1/72nd scale versions as an experiment and I can barely see them....

........

I can't offer any guidance on application as I have n't tried them yet.

I too have some of the HGW rivets Guy, and had them in mind when I was thinking about the back end of the Hawk. I also had in mind your 1/32 build :)

I would have tried the HGW rivets on the hubs if it had been practicable

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  • 2 weeks later...

Nice artwork.....JP has a Strikmaster Instrument Panel coaming tho' - and Strikemaster ejection seat head boxes don't have the canopy breakers; but nice artwork :) Oh shut up Steve..................

Actually the way that the artwork depicts the paint and camouflage looks really good to my eyes and worth trying to copy.

Actually also. Any JP with it's nose that far above the horizon is (1) doing a loop or (2) captured in that fleeting moment of time before it runs out of airspeed and stude commences a recovery from an unusual attitude :)

Had a few weeks away from model making - including a short holiday in Madrid. Great City. Predictably awful Ryanair experience. Just about caught up with work since RTB so should start making some progress (no surely not) soon.

Edited by Fritag
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"Actually also. Any JP with it's nose that far above the horizon is (1) doing a loop or (2) captured in that fleeting moment of time before it runs out of airspeed and stude commences a recovery from an unusual attitude" :)

And hence Steve recovers from HIS stalling

Hoorah we are getting some more Hawking soon

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  • 2 weeks later...

Looks like they forgot the strakes too on that JP

[QFI Mode]

The picture is of a JP5 - you'll note it has tip-tanks fitted and no ILS Glideslope aerial on the nose. The JP5 did not have the strakes on the nose because the oscillatory spin did not become a problem until the tip tanks were taken off (ie on the 5A).

Some of the 5Bs (unofficial title) used by LLADTS (Low Level and Air Defence Training Squadron) in the Nav training role at Finningley had the strakes (and tip tanks) because they were back converted from the 5A.

What is actually wrong with that picture of a 5 is the lack of Rebecca aerials.

[/QFI Mode]

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ooh Debs

I do love it when you get all QFI on us

;)

Seems the Maestro is still shillyshallying

(I cant say much either, getting ME prepped for Le Mans and having the grandkids round has kept me a tad busy..) :)

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lol Bill.

I'm still waiting on some stuff arriving to finish the Doms.

Got a 272 Sqn Beaufighter on the build to show though.

I just bought a 1:72 Hasegawa Beaufighter TFX - on a whim. I'll hopefully make a start this week on some kit or other now a bit of the DIY list is finished and the trauma of the Tornado has subsided.

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Ayup Steve, real life still getting in the way or have you managed to get back to these at all?

Cheers.

Not really got back to them Guy :weep:

They've been mostly losing the competition for leisure time with other things at the mo'. We've been trying to get out into the Dales or the Moors on the bikes as much as possible when the weather's been fine - what's the point of living in 'God's own Country' unless you make the most of it?

Also I've been trying to brush up the rusty skiing skills at snozone in Castelford (30 years rusty!) - hoping to go skiing in the New Year with some old RAF chums and its V V important not to be too embarrassingly awful.......

So - one way or t'other the poor old boy's been a bit kn*ckered in the evenings......

I have been fingering the plastic a little tho'. Enough to find the surface detail on the Hawks rather disappointing. After the old chippie and JP5 mouldings I was hoping that the much more recent Hawk tooling wouldn't need much work on stuff like panel lines and moulded detail. Wrong.....

There are some pretty awful trenches moulded in, and some curious recessed sections on the spin and underneath of the fuselage (possibly due to wear on the moulds?):

IMG_3786_zps8hfhiztg.jpg

IMG_3787_zpspd4twllj.jpg

IMG_3789_zpsg2zf5xjt.jpg

IMG_3790_zpseitbkobp.jpg

So I've put some thought in to what to do. Keen to avoid 2 x rescribes if at all possible :)

I'm using one of the 2 Hawks as a test bed. I've filled the curious and inaccurate recessed details on top and bottom with sprue dissolved in liquid poly (as recently discussed on Tom's Hunter thread IIRC) - the aim being to leave a consistent surface for any scribing that I need to do later:

IMG_3793_zpsbza69zao.jpg

Sanded down and polished up OK :)

IMG_3795_zps03dtn38f.jpg

IMG_3796_zpswvmgeay8.jpg

And I'm trying to reduce the trench like panel lines - without filling and rescribing them - by masking and spraying with Halfords Filler Primer and cutting it back. Hear after one coat:

IMG_3798_zpswxztjhqz.jpg

And here a second coat before cutting back:

IMG_3800_zpsmzfsawf2.jpg

If I don't get nice neat panel lines I may have to revert to the dissolved sprue - which I've just discovered with testing on a scrap fuselage can quite neatly be applied along panel lines with a hypodermic needle :)

IMG_3799_zps9suz0amx.jpg

Sorry for the lack of progress chaps.....

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looks progressy to me Steve

I'm seeking more excuses to use some of doc's hypo needles too, using them on dissolved plastic, that's a fabulous idea

I think the filler primer might 'mark up' a bit snatchy when you try rescribing, but that is simply a guess

I have only ever used it on my Midget when I was painting her, many years ago ;)

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I tried Halfords filler primer on a new tool Airfix Spitfire Mk.1 - no luck; as Perdu said it was too brittle to rescribe nicely. It's the only model in recent times I've chucked in the bin and not bothered to try again (just bought the Tamiya version instead).

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I think the filler primer might 'mark up' a bit snatchy when you try rescribing, but that is simply a guess

I tried Halfords filler primer on a new tool Airfix Spitfire Mk.1 - no luck; as Perdu said it was too brittle to rescribe nicely.

I'm not surprised by that - and I'm using it it see if a few layers of it will reduce the depth and width of the panel lines and save me the chore of rescribing. It's a big ask and I'm not confident the results will be crisp enough for me - but nothing ventured nothing gained :)

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