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Posted (edited)

I will attempt to surgically remove the aforementioned etchie bits from the hulk that was to be the black tiger 74 squadron hawk, that I found in the cavity walling behind the shelf of doom!

Mark; Etchie and other bits all arrived safely. Definitely be making use of some of the etch. TVM.

In other news I've now made a mould of the bang seat - using the RTV recommended by CT - which sets in about half the time of my old stuff and so is about twice as useful......

Am pretty pleased with the result. I decided to try it without the webbing between the head box and seat - relying on the elasticity of the RTV to allow the seat out of the mould. Relieved to say that I got away with it.

Here's a resin cast. the detail reproduced pretty faithfully - but I've had trouble getting a decent piccie cos the resin is so light in colour - even these are a bit overexposed:

a303598811a4d95311d4afdec85019b8_zps6wtw

94956c7575aa5ee1ea6e560d2b5d11db_zpsgsbe

And a couple of all the resin bits for the cockpit dry fitted together:

3f1e122e2eb2e32a8a027aada3d7a3fd_zpsz96e

1296bae688295bd36750965e65e4970e_zpsfevw

I've made a second RTV mould - just to see if I can avoid the one or two tiny air bubbles that occurred on the first:

9f0fb4cb86a78d04164b343ee5f9cf4b_zpsnhmk

Well it's been fun being a mini-me CT - but it's now time to do some old style modelling on the pair of em :) :)

Edited by Fritag
  • Like 16
Posted

Those have come out very nicely, pleasantly surprised too that the webbing wasn't needed, Your becoming a master a this.

  • Like 1
Posted

I'd say the operation was a success. Those seats look very good but I am sure will look even better once you have them painted and added all the bondage gear

Posted

Fritag, glad those seats came out ok, but the head recesses look a bit too deep to me. Is that the just the photo?

Posted

Those have come out very nicely, pleasantly surprised too that the webbing wasn't needed, Your becoming a master a this.

The boy's doing this very well isn't he :)

I like the seats Steve, quality stuff as ever

And the look of the pieces all 'at home', is excellent

Posted

Fritag, glad those seats came out ok, but the head recesses look a bit too deep to me. Is that the just the photo?

The photo makes em look a bit pinched and slightly strange - I think it's the iPhone having difficulty with the cream coloured resin.

Nonetheless I think the recesses are indeed a bit deep Andy. However I don't think it'll notice once the straps are put in place.

  • Like 2
Posted

Steve you can 'shallow' them out using paint brushed in and left solid inside but brushed out on the edges

That will reduce the inner depth of the hollow without much affecting anything else

That said I think you are right, the headbox straps will cover the hollow pretty well

Posted (edited)

Only a trivial update I'm afraid - just not getting any time to 'play with plastic' at the mo (BTW that phrase might originate with someone else in my little family unit of two and not me :))



Steve you can 'shallow' them out using paint brushed in and left solid inside but brushed out on the edges

That will reduce the inner depth of the hollow without much affecting anything else

That said I think you are right, the headbox straps will cover the hollow pretty well

I bodge painted with rattle cans a spare cast, and then agriculturally dry brushed it just to see to see how it looked under paint. I don't think I need to do anything to shallow out the head box. I think it'll look ok:

IMG_3673_zpsr0ck3j91.jpg

IMG_3675_zpswduyo154.jpg

IMG_3674_zpscw0otbp9.jpg

IMG_3676_zpsosf3yi6u.jpg

The nose leg is vexing me somewhat. None of the kit ones are particularly good:

5B95EC17-B8E1-4ABC-9323-6C8E17261576_zps

I was probably spoilt a bit by having the CMR resin bits to use for the JP builds but I don't really like the solid moulded in wheel look if it can possibly be avoided. Also the two Airfix offerings have quite oversize wheels and they're all a bit chunky.

If anyone has any bright ideas on a source of a suitable nose wheel I'd like to hear it. The only replacements I know of is the CMK Hawk 100 set. It's nice and cheap but unfortunately the nose wheel at least is not the right size or shape.

The embryonic plan is to (i) cut the bottom fork off of the leg from the latest tooling Airfix kit and carve out the wheel leaving just the fork and (ii) cut the italeri nose wheel off of the leg and try to salvage it so that it's useable. After that the rest of the leg should be a breeze :)

Ok so - first attempts.....

The fork is easy enough - but there's no way I can remove the nose wheel from leg and clean the wheel up neatly enough to be used. The only thing I can think to do is drill out the whole hub and replace it with suitably sized rod/tube:

IMG_3678_zps3rebgyo0.jpg

I have some tube with a suitable external diameter - but the internal diameter is too small:

IMG_3679_zpsykbgatyt.jpg

Looks better drilled out:

IMG_3680_zpswq1vakdl.jpg

And I also have some tube that fits inside. This is how the first go looks. Bit shopping trolley castor looking at the mo :) It'll be better with some 2.5 mm solid rod forming the internal bit of the hub i think.

IMG_3681_zpslw08r55t.jpg

Be better still if I didn't have to make a nose wheel :)

Steve - who ain't getting much done at the mo...........

Edited by Fritag
  • Like 18
Posted

"Steve - who ain't getting much done at the mo..........."

Probably not much in terms of result, but being myself currently playing with some detailing, I understand how long it takes to think about and try a solution even for the smallest particular... :banghead: ... especially if it's not a "quick" solution ...

Ciao

Posted

I'm glad those lessons in making wheels from oddments stuck in your noddle Steve

That IS the way to do it

Er, the actual wheel. Do you not have a ready supply of Starbuckses plastic stirring sticks around?

Shocked I am, I thought I'd taught you the art of plastic foraging well enough :(

Joking and peetaking apart, there's enough quality in your first wheel to leave me encouraged for the future

I do feel for you though, I have fond (he lied!) memories of making all of the undercarriage legs and wheels for an improved 'Red Flag' desert cam Buccaneer many years ago when I deemed the Matchbox ones unsuitable

(they weren't really either, I was just flexing early 'detailing' muscles) :(

nice start dude ;)

(anyone out there who can tell me why oh why I decided to upgrade Win XP to Win 7?) :banghead:

b

  • Like 2
Posted

That bang seat look even more fantastic now with a lick of paint, what kit did that nosewheel fork come from? is it the CMK one.

Looking forward to the master at work on this one.

(anyone out there who can tell me why oh why I decided to upgrade Win XP to Win 7?) :banghead:

Wait till you see win 8, if it aint broke dont fix it mr microsoft.

  • Like 2
Posted (edited)

I'm glad those lessons in making wheels from oddments stuck in your noddle Steve

That IS the way to do it

You comfort me Bill :)

what kit did that nosewheel fork come from? is it the CMK one.

No - it's carved from the airfix nose leg you see in the piccie:

IMG_3678_zps3rebgyo0.jpg

The one on the left is an Airfix kit offering. The one to its right has had the fork section with moulded in wheel cut off - and next to that in the middle is the fork after the wheel and excess has been carved away.

Edited by Fritag
  • Like 8
Posted

Be better still if I didn't have to make a nose wheel :)

would never have had that problem if you'd been building a helicopter!

Nice work though. I'll bet you're starting to get that warm mushy feeling already. - A few bits of brass tube, some more plastic butchery and you'll have a fine leg to stand on.

  • Like 3
Posted

As so often, Steve, your work is helping mine, even though at the moment I am in Burgundy and 500 miles from the nearest "playing with plastic" (has your wife been talking to mine, by any chance?). I have been pondering how to improve the Vixen nose wheel - the main wheels are fine because they will just have hit the deck, but the nose strut needs extending; I think you've just shown me how to do it. Thanks, mate!

Coming on nicely. But as Hendie says. it's still not a helicopter! (I am toying with doing a Sea King next, but the rotor head is one thing that' saving me pause...)

Posted

Whoo hoo! The triumvirate return.

I thought I had become challenged in the eyesight department, or that someone had broken my windows.

That Wallace is top notch, and the rest is better than any mainstream offering I have ever seen.

Been rooting around the old boxes in the mancave and found some Fujimi bits, what fun.

Note to self you really must build something this year.

Will Sir be representing the nuts on the nose wheel centre as 14mm or 18mm diameter?

Drooling as I type :hypnotised:

Posted

Will Sir be representing the nuts on the nose wheel centre as 14mm or 18mm diameter?

Whether 14 or 18 I can guarantee the nuts on the nose wheel will be the dog's if Steve has anything to do with it.

  • Like 1
Posted

would never have had that problem if you'd been building a helicopter!

Or you'd have had twice the trouble with a Whirlwind...!! :whistle:

  • Like 2
  • Haha 1
Posted

Gosh Steve, the pix of your resin cockpit at your #177 have got me drooling. Fab stuff, and I think I'll have to dedicate some time to learning the resin game, as it clearly pays dividends in terms of giving you what you need to create the model you want. Roll on!

Justin

  • Like 1
Posted

would never have had that problem if you'd been building a helicopter!

Nice work though. I'll bet you're starting to get that warm mushy feeling already. - A few bits of brass tube, some more plastic butchery and you'll have a fine leg to stand on.

Hmm

Did I never tell you it took 11 pieces to make the tailwheel beam for my Wessexes? Twice... ;)

He'll be just fine with a pair of nose wheel devices

he has to be half way there already :)

  • Like 1
Posted

Glad to see you're back in the saddle, or should that be bang seat..groan, I'll get my :coat: Seriously though it looks the business. And that's a spare!

As for the front wheel, really like the inventiveness shown by using the most accurate parts from different kit offerings - the best of all worlds and the worse of none no less. With the addition of Albion Alloys tubing and rod, resin casts, and even a little home-made etch (now I am being a little cheeky ;)), you will have used pretty much every modelling medium on that front wheel. It won't be a quick job, but reckon by the end you'll have something reminiscent of the same sort of scale realism that some of the railway modellers achieve, such as those Pete Waterman recently put up for auction.

The wheel itself looks good to go as it is. Can't provide much advice, though if you did have to machine a wheel from scratch using a blank (Perdu now I know why there is a shortage of plastic stirrers in all the Brum Starbucks), Could you not use your Dremel as a mini lathe, and knock up a mini mandrel to turn your own? Probably a none starter, and looking as though you won't have to, but in a worse case scenario...

A genuine query I have is will you cast / manufacture the tyres and hubs separately or as one? More work I know, but had a thought that it would be easier to mask and would look dead sharp and defined. Not that I suspect that will be an issue either way. Oh yeh, no expert but as for the hub bolts, I reckon 5/8 inch cos I'm old school :)

Posted

but reckon by the end you'll have something reminiscent of the same sort of scale realism that some of the railway modellers achieve, such as those Pete Waterman recently put up for auction.

I do hope the Hawks don't take Steve as long to finish as most of those loco's though...!!

Posted

More great attention to detail with those nose wheel legs and the bang seat looks fantastic under a coat of paint.

Roger

  • Like 1
Posted

More great attention to detail with those nose wheel legs and the bang seat looks fantastic under a coat of paint.

Roger

Agreed. Could n't have put it better myself Roger.

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