Jump to content

A pair of Airfix Hawks in 1/72. Finished.


Recommended Posts

On 10/22/2022 at 10:30 AM, Brandy said:

The big question now is: Are we going to see these at Telford this year?

 

Nope; not even if I finish em by then.  Which, for the avoidance of doubt, I won't :blush:

 

I'm not really a society joining/club joining/competition entering sort really; no doubt hampered by a lack of social skills to start with... And then there's all the logistics of boxing and carting and so on and so on and so on.  Much happier looking than displaying.

 

On 10/23/2022 at 12:59 AM, mark.au said:

You might need to specify which year you're hoping to see them at Telford...

 

On 10/23/2022 at 1:08 AM, Bandsaw Steve said:
On 10/22/2022 at 8:35 PM, HOUSTON said:

 

Nearing the end ?

:wicked:

 


Seems unlikely.  He’s only 171 pages in

 

On 10/23/2022 at 10:04 AM, Serkan Sen said:

I fully agree. Not before reaching 200 pages..

 

22 hours ago, perdu said:

3

 

I detect a theme here.  I'm clever that way...

 

On 10/22/2022 at 9:33 AM, bigbadbadge said:

Please can I ask what pencil you were using there as I struggle to get the effects I want with my current selection.

 

I'm almost embarrassed to say Chris, that it's just the standard refill for the Faber Castell 'Perfect Pencil'  - I'm not even sure what grade it is - but I think it's a 'B' - so quite hard really.  I just plucked it out of the drawer and had a go with it...

 

Bill, Giorgio, Terry, Johnny; I don't really want to use a darker/black pencil on the TWU Hawk cos I really don't want the panel to stand out very much.  Just visible from some angles is the sort of look I'm after.  I'm going to try some more shading and/or oil highlighting techniques and see how it goes.

 

On 10/22/2022 at 8:32 AM, Serkan Sen said:

I have some bad experiences with oil/acrylic/enamel panel wash techniques. I am now using only aqua/gouache colors which are very cheap (water paints for primary school kids) and very forgiving.

 

And very effectively you use them too Serkan.  And Giorgio @giemme uses tempera to good effect.  I'm fairly comfortable with oil, thinned with sansodor, and I just like the way the oil can produce filtering and staining effects.  Until I have a bad experience of course...... :whistle:  And then I'll be running for the water based paints...

 

On 10/23/2022 at 12:59 AM, mark.au said:

It's entirely unreasonable of me I know, but I'm sort of disappointed that you're using decals...  I don't know what I was expecting but the level of detail and accuracy you've achieved so far suggested you might be hand painting the stencils or something...

 

Ha.  If I ever get a cutter and switch to 1/48 scale I might try and emulate some of your work on painting markings.  Till then I'm gonna fight my losing battle with decals...

 

Speaking of which.  Basic stickering is in progress.

 

Not enjoying the process much.  Probably my own cackhandedness, but I'm finding the Xtradecals a bit inflexible, unwilling to settle into the panel lines even with liberal amounts, of micro set/sol, and prone to cracking if pushed.  Anyways a few progress shots just to prove it's happening.

 

Undersides weren't too difficult it's fair to say.

 

1DAF77F7-DFD0-4CD5-9680-6712BB1F08A3

 

5805C65F-E441-40B1-8BE2-744B72F1E15B

 

With the topsides I had the problem that the wing roundels cover some vortex generators.  Each of the Valley hawk roundels covered 3 of the bl**dy things.

 

Inflexible decals prone to cracking and sticky-uppy (technical term) home-brew photo etch VGs were not a happy mix.

 

I tried slitting the decals but they still cracked a bit.

 

Useable, with a bit of making-good to be done, and at least the headaches is behind me.

 

3D2730BE-332B-43AC-9EEC-E405CED0BF89

 

(I did think about hand painting the 4 FTS badge on the tail Mark, (not) :D)

 

96707D3C-B4CF-4550-8115-1B80C032862A

 

Well, it's a start.

 

  • Like 31
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sad to hear we won't get to see them. It's not about the competition, just sharing what you've done and letting us appreciate it. I only enter the comps because it gives people a better view of the model, compared to putting it on a SIG table. Any awards are an added bonus, but I don't expect anything.

 

Ian

  • Like 5
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The stickers are bringing these beauties alive Steve.

 

I can empathise with the lack of enjoyment of this bit of the process. Sometimes, some decals just don't want to behave well which can be frustrating to say the least.

 

Looks like you've got the upper hand now. 🤞

 

Terry

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have to agree with the rest of the jury Steve: although it may be a struggle at your end with those decals, it's pure delight from our perspective to see just) how fine both of those aircraft are looking with them on now.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  • Like 5
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just absolutely lovely, the pair of 'em! 

 

3 hours ago, Fritag said:

And then I'll be running for the water based paints...

 

You can get water based oil paints... ! Best of both worlds? I have a few of them from days of yore when I aspired to be as good at aviation art as Robert Taylor. As with most things in life I failed miserably at that!

 

Haven't yet tried using them for weathering a model though.... Maybe on the next one :hmmm:

 

Keith

  • Like 5
Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 hours ago, perdu said:

I feel your pain with those Xtradecals Steve, mine have always been unhelpful intractable dollops of stiff varnish when I've used them.

 

An apt description of them Bill, but they’re my only practicable option here really and, save for the wing roundels they thankfully are mostly sited on flat or featureless surfaces so their unwillingness to conform isn’t a deal breaker.   And on the plus side there isn’t a lot of excess clear decal film, and what there is nice and clear.

 

Edited by Fritag
Additional comment
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

11 hours ago, Terry1954 said:

I can empathise with the lack of enjoyment of this bit of the process

Yeah, me too.... But at 1/72nd, there isn't much of an alternative to decals. Still, they look good from where I'm sitting, excellent in fact! :clap:  :clap: 

 

Ciao

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I know it’s too late now, but the ‘ hot compress’ method might be worth considering for the next time. Soak a piece of cloth in water as hot as your finger will take, fold it into a pad and press hard on the transfer for a minute or so. It’s worked for me on Tamiya decals which are notoriously thick/stiff, can’t remember if I’ve tried it on Xtradecals.

 

John. 🇺🇦

 

  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Biggles87 said:

I know it’s too late now, but the ‘ hot compress’ method might be worth considering for the next time. Soak a piece of cloth in water as hot as your finger will take, fold it into a pad and press hard on the transfer for a minute or so. It’s worked for me on Tamiya decals which are notoriously thick/stiff, can’t remember if I’ve tried it on Xtradecals.

 

Interesting.  When do you apply the compress John?  As soon as the decal is safely in place but not dried out?

 

As it happens the Xtradecal decals do seem willing  - albeit grudgingly and once ostensibly dry - to allow themselves to be be pressed gently into the panel lines with a pointed Tamiya cotton bud.  Not sure that they'll retain the line once clear-coated, but we'll see.

 

In other news I'm not overly impressed with the adhesive quality of the decals and a note to self has to be keep any sort of masking tape/post it notes etc. well away away; even after clear coating..  Another note to self will have to be to go gently even using oils over them as anything but the most gentle of scrubbing may lift or dislodge em...

 

Anyroad up; I've repaired the roundel decals, where they cracked and split around the PE VGs, with tiny slivers of appropriately coloured decal.

 

Does the job.

 

Obviously the repair can be seen if you get close enough.  But frankly only when you're so far into the Macro level that the whole thing becomes such a horror show that a visible sliver of decal is the least of the insults :D

 

I suggest the easily disturbed look away now.......

 

BD623774-A09A-4A35-9B98-9469B9A6CA59

 

The horror-pic does at least show how I've tried to use the pencil over the red on the ailerons and the panel/VG/fence to the right of the roundel to add some shade/shadow/airflow staining.  

 

The Valley hawk in particular is a pain as XX176 or 176 appears 8 times.  The TWU Hawk is only slightly better with XX263 or 263 appearing 6 times.

 

Anyway the 'journey' is at least underway - here at more presentable photographic distances. 

 

0E46A5B9-666E-4442-AF36-6278C3EA20E7

 

AF9159AC-E083-4906-8623-5BA9C4D2D24E

 

Don't worry; now I've had my whinge about it I'm not going to bore you with a post everytime I've managed to get another serial number on a Hawk :D

 

I don't have enough free uploads left on my flickr account apart from anyhting else....

 

 

Edited by Fritag
Typo
  • Like 12
  • Haha 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

You seem to be overcoming the adversity, Steve. I don’t know about your sheet, but my Xtradecal sets all say they’re printed by Microscale. My FCM sheets are also Microscale, and when I did the F-5 I had a problem with them falling off the model until clear coated over, so I don’t blame you for not wanting to mask near them

 

James

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looks like those decals are putting up a fight there. I've been having the exact same experience with Xtradecal lately. They seem very reluctant to settle into panel lines (even when using Tamiya Mark Fit Psycho strength decal softener) and frequently crack over raised details. I tried some of their coloured stripes recently for a wing stripe. All fine until I tried to bend the decal around the leading edge, and then it just kept cracking. Tried some Printscale stripes instead and job done. No idea what the problem is with some Xtradecal sheets, but it's frustrating.

 

Steve

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Fritag said:

 

Interesting.  When do you apply the compress John?  As soon as the decal is safely in place but not dried out?

 

 

 

Yes exactly that, but I’ve also applied the compress more than once, but before the decal dries out completely.

I originally picked up the tip some time ago from a BM member but I can’t remember who it was.

 

John. 🇺🇦

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hmm...I've never had any problems with Xtradecal (which are made by Microscale). I use Microscale's decal solvents (Micro-Set and Micro-Sol) - what are you guys using? Now, that said, I did have some major problems with a TwoBobs sheet (also printed by Microscale). That sheet seemed to not have any decal film applied over the ink. Talk about a Technicolour psychedelic moment in the decal bowl.    :(

 

Cheers,

Bill

  • Like 1
  • Sad 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 10/25/2022 at 2:35 PM, fightersweep said:

They seem very reluctant to settle into panel lines (even when using Tamiya Mark Fit Psycho strength decal softener)

 

22 hours ago, Navy Bird said:

Hmm...I've never had any problems with Xtradecal

 

I've had the same reluctance to settle into panel lines that Steve mentions but thankfully it's not much of an issue on this build as only the wing roundels cross any panel lines and I seem to have managed it through dint of perseverance.  I don't think any decals would have coped with with going over the Vortex Generators.

 

22 hours ago, Navy Bird said:

I use Microscale's decal solvents (Micro-Set and Micro-Sol) - what are you guys using?

 

Same, Bill.

 

Notwithstanding my grumbles, the Xtradecal set is nice and clear and in register and sharp so I should give credit for that.  I like the colours too.

 

Got all the serials on the valley Hawk; losts of concentration needed given that the numerals mostly had to be applied separately.

 

2DE3FA8D-A4DB-4CA2-9CB7-FF49BA98B87E

 

The large code numbers on the fuselage where a concern as the Xtradecal set didn't have any 7s.

 

After scratching my head for a bit I belatedly remembered I've got a few Xtradecal sets of different size RAF codes and in particular some 1/72 16" white code numbers. Problem solved.

 

Save for trying to get 3 individual codes to line up in the proper place at the proper angle...

 

Here she is now with some of the more obvious markings and stencils in place.

 

57F78C86-34AA-4A85-9785-1BCDE1CFD78E

 

On 10/25/2022 at 2:10 PM, 81-er said:

when I did the F-5 I had a problem with them falling off the model until clear coated over

 

Noted James.  Only a modest number of markings to go, most importantly the ejection seat triangles and other markings around the cockpits, and then a clear coat. 

 

And then repeat on the TWU Hawk.  

 

And then I'll try to bring them to life (and maybe cover up a scruffy bit or two :whistle:) with some subtle post-paint effects.

Edited by Fritag
  • Like 24
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Fritag

 

?????? 'Scruffy Bit' - what are you saying, this is the tidiest build (pair of builds) I've ever seen.... you self deprecate to a very high order!

 

Looking forward to completion, whenever that may be - it's worth waiting for

 

The work you have done here, and the new technologies you have learned along the way, are jaw droppingly good

 

It has been, and will continue to be, a pleasure to follow

 

ATB

 

Geoff

  • Like 5
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I use and like Xtradecals but they can be a bit inflexible especially the roundels I'm afraid. I think it's to do with the number of layers of paint (ink?) they use, plus the carrier film. I may try John @Biggles87 hot compress next time.

 

On 10/25/2022 at 1:26 PM, Fritag said:

I don't have enough free uploads left on my flickr account apart from anyhting else....

 

 

I was getting the same problem and I looked on BM for an alternative and now use Microsoft One Drive. 5GB for free. Posting on BM can be a bit of a faff but fine once your used to it.

 

Anyway, the Hawks look beautiful with paint and decals!

 

Cheers,

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 26/10/2022 at 16:34, Fritag said:

 

 

I've had the same reluctance to settle into panel lines that Steve mentions but thankfully it's not much of an issue on this build as only the wing roundels cross any panel lines and I seem to have managed it through dint of perseverance.  I don't think any decals would have coped with with going over the Vortex Generators.

 

 

Same, Bill.

 

Notwithstanding my grumbles, the Xtradecal set is nice and clear and in register and sharp so I should give credit for that.  I like the colours too.

 

Got all the serials on the valley Hawk; losts of concentration needed given that the numerals mostly had to be applied separately.

 

2DE3FA8D-A4DB-4CA2-9CB7-FF49BA98B87E

 

The large code numbers on the fuselage where a concern as the Xtradecal set didn't have any 7s.

 

After scratching my head for a bit I belatedly remembered I've got a few Xtradecal sets of different size RAF codes and in particular some 1/72 16" white code numbers. Problem solved.

 

Save for trying to get 3 individual codes to line up in the proper place at the proper angle...

 

Here she is now with some of the more obvious markings and stencils in place.

 

57F78C86-34AA-4A85-9785-1BCDE1CFD78E

 

 

Noted James.  Only a modest number of markings to go, most importantly the ejection seat triangles and other markings around the cockpits, and then a clear coat. 

 

And then repeat on the TWU Hawk.  

 

And then I'll try to bring them to life (and maybe cover up a scruffy bit or two :whistle:) with some subtle post-paint effects.

 

Don't mention stencils!!! 😆

  • Like 1
  • Haha 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Maybe also a bit late to the party regarding the decals - I have never managed to get any of the decal solutions (including the "Tamiya Mark Fit Psycho strength") to give any result that water on its own would not give. Regardless of make of decals. Maybe there is a seecret voodoo dance that one has to do that no one dares to mention on the instructions or the web....?

 

Either way, I prefer a 50/50 mix of water and white glue. The slowish drying time of that solution under the decal somehow makes it soft and strechy. I managed to get single decals to conform to very compund curves without effort. Also, the high shrinkage of the glue mix causes the by now soft decal to be pulled into and around any surface detail. Only slight drawback is the cleaning of excess glue afterwards, but that is done quickly with a moistened cloth.

 

My 2c of shared experience. 🙂

 

  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...