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A pair of Airfix Hawks in 1/72. Finished.


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14 minutes ago, perdu said:

I don't blame you, not wanting to get commercial with its occasional pitfalls.

He could always give them away for free, couldn't he?


:D :D  :D 

 

Ciao

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But, but wouldn't it be incumbent upon such freebie recipients to help reimburse him for raw materials processed, energy charges and sundries consumed?

 

Oh and personal time lost from one's invaluable available modelling time...

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28 minutes ago, Dave Swindell said:

Then there's the Skiing & Cycling and the occasional Lawyering .... :fool:

You missed the Bear Grylls style, long distance forced yomping dragging poor Fiona behind him.

 

;) 

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Small update.

 

Printed the nose leg and wheel bits.  Supports drawn in Fusion as is my wont, particularly for small items.  Print orientations chosen to make cleaning up the support stubs as easy as possible. 

 

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And when put together I reckon  it’s close enough to the surviving original to pass muster.

 

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Wrong-righted :D (well nearly; will be when it's painted).  Onwards we go….

 

It was about this time last year that I began seriously thinking about starting to learn to use Fusion with a view to getting a resin printer.  So glad I did it now.  It’s been hugely enjoyable; and now it’s got me out of a bind of my own creation.

 

 

 

Edited by Fritag
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27 minutes ago, Fritag said:

And when put together I reckon  it’s close enough to the surviving original to pass muster.

 

Judging by that last picture, once you have some sort of pin through that leg and form the oleo, it will more than just pass muster.

 

You're quite good at this modelling malarky aren't you? 😉

 

T.

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Fantastic catch up Steve. The weathering is spot on and suits the look down to the ground. I’m still no used to adding supports in max. I can never seem to agree with myself if the bloomin thing will print at the chosen orientation. 
Sculpting you say? I guess that’s the way I do all my stuff. A nice way of explaining it. I was trying to explain to Bill at Telford that I don’t use splines or lofted shapes. 
I digress. Back to the hawks. They’re amazing and even saying that doesn’t do the justice. 👏👏👏👏

Johnny. 

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11 hours ago, Fritag said:

And when put together I reckon  it’s close enough to the surviving original to pass muster.

You should really do something for your photographic background, Steve...

What, that's your hand? :frantic: How minuscule are those wheels? :frantic:

 

:D Top job, I say :clap:

 

Ciao

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8 hours ago, The Spadgent said:

Fantastic catch up Steve. The weathering is spot on and suits the look down to the ground. I’m still no used to adding supports in max. I can never seem to agree with myself if the bloomin thing will print at the chosen orientation. 
Sculpting you say? I guess that’s the way I do all my stuff. A nice way of explaining it. I was trying to explain to Bill at Telford that I don’t use splines or lifted shapes. 
I digress. Back to the hawks. They’re amazing and even saying that doesn’t do the justice. 👏👏👏👏

Johnny. 

Incidentally, I do not want anyone under the misapprehension that I actually understood any of that...

 

Great nosey bits Steve.

 

Fabbulous.

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On 12/5/2022 at 12:11 AM, The Spadgent said:

Sculpting you say? I guess that’s the way I do all my stuff.

 

That's cos your an artist and a professional Johnny :winkgrin:

 

On 12/1/2022 at 7:31 PM, keefr22 said:

Anyway, I wish I hadn't mentioned you having to 3D print replacement u/c bits - didn't mean to put a hex on the nose gear, honest....!! 🤣

 

 

I knew it wasn't my fault! Thanks for sticking your hand up for the blame Keith :whistle:

 

Ok so.  The self inflicted extra-work caused by losing the nose leg is drawing to a close.

 

We have wheels and hubs.  Printed and painted separately a la @Serkan Sen and just pressed together.  I built in a 0.1mm gap between the tyre and hub in Fusion and that turned out to be a good thing as they're a snug - but not too tight - press fit.  The wheels are only 5 or 6mm in diameter and it'd be a pain to get such a neat painted demarcation between hub and tyre if they were printed as one unit.

 

 

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I only need one, possibly two, so I don't know why I did four! I think it's cos it's just so easy to print numerous copies that I end up prepping a couple of extras - just in case!  Mostly a waste of time.

 

And we have a replacement Leg.  With the wheel and some nickel tubes for the shiny bit:

 

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Or rather we have two.  And the original:

 

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Got to choose two from three to use.

 

But if I use the two printed ones, then I needn’t have bothered basing the design on my scratched/fettled original and could have aimed for a more exact replica of the 1:1 :oops: .   Never mind; I s’pect they’ll do :D

 

And in other news I test printed some strobe lights with clear resin.  My first use of clear resin.  Not up to use for a canopy, but a keeper for the strobes :D

 

y4m6ijN2a6i-QavO1AYZY6LKZG_nyCON5hLqQBu-

 

Now where was I before all this lost-leg shenanigans....

 

Edited by Fritag
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7 minutes ago, Fritag said:

Now where was I before all this lost-leg shenanigans....


Thinking up ways to get to 200 pages?

 

Exquisite undercarriage.  For the Hawks, I mean.

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Whilst I was messing about with the clear resin I had an experiment with the weapons sight required for the rear coaming of the TWU hawk.

 

I haven't fitted the printed rear coaming to the TWU Hawk because the weapon sight glass supports are printed-in and obvs. vulnerable.

 

y4mOG-NEVP2dB1C7fnt-XDrP2-W3hMhQDhm9bqJX

 

The idea is to add the glass from a sliver of clear plastic once I do fit it.  I did the same for the front  coaming and it was a PITA to glue such a tiny bit of clear plastic to such tiny supports.

 

So thinks I; could I maybe print the sight glass with supports built in and just pop it onto the sight body on the coaming (having snipped off the coaming supports first obvs.).  Should be easier to fix that way.

 

Took about 5 mins in Fusion to produce the sight glass with its supports - plus some print supports.

 

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And it printed neatly enough:

 

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But the sight glass was pretty opaque and so not really acceptable and I binned the idea :(

 

And then (belatedly) the thought occurred that I should perhaps try dipping a sight glass in Johnson's Klear and see whether it helped with the opacity.

 

It did.

 

Undipped sight glass on the left.  Dipped sight glass on the right.  Something of an improvement.

 

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I reckon that might be useable at 1/72 scale.

 

We'll see.

 

Final assembly looms.

 

 

Edited by Fritag
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Very nice work there again, Steve :) That sight glass is definitely useable, I've seen far worse levels of clarity on kit canopies. Yet another bit of stunning 3d work from you!

 

James

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13 hours ago, Fritag said:

I reckon that might be useable at 1/72 scale.

 

From where I'm sitting (Nero coffee shop in Poole) that looks pretty good. Amazing what a quick dip in Klear can do!

 

T.

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All looking great, Steve: replacement nose struts and wheels, strobe lights, HUD  :worthy:  :clap:  :clap:

 

So, is it done yet? When is the RFI(s) going to be up?

 

:rofl:

 

Ciao 

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17 hours ago, Fritag said:

But if I use the two printed ones, then I needn’t have bothered basing the design on my scratched/fettled original

 

I did wonder when you stated you were going to print a replacement why you wouldn't have just printed another at the same time to get two identical legs but assumed you had some astonishing masterplanned surprise in store for us all. 

Oh well...

 

 

13 hours ago, Fritag said:

nd then (belatedly) the thought occurred that I should perhaps try dipping a sight glass in Johnson's Klear and see whether it helped with the opacity.

 

Didn't Johnny's recent safari into the clear resin scene find that you could also paint a light coat of clear resin over the clouded part and hit it brielfy with a lightsaber it would restore clarity?  

 

It's getting perilously close to the precipice of finishing these Hawks now innit?  What are we going to do when they're done?

 

 

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1 hour ago, giemme said:

So, is it done yet?

 

Reminds me of the song my kids would sing on long journeys from the back of our car, in unison, prompted by a countdown from my mischievous daughter..."are we nearly there yet!!!?"

 

😁

 

T.

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15 hours ago, Fritag said:

But the sight glass was pretty opaque and so not really acceptable and I binned the idea :(

 

And then (belatedly) the thought occurred that I should perhaps try dipping a sight glass in Johnson's Klear and see whether it helped with the opacity.

 

It did.

 

Undipped sight glass on the left.  Dipped sight glass on the right.  Something of an improvement.

Looks very good Steve.  I did some windshield and canopy test prints using clear resin for my ongoing 1:72 and 1:48 A-12 Oxcart projects. I have tried the following methods to improve the transparency:

1. Dip in Klear

2. Dip in resin and cure with uv hand torch

3. Coat with gloss cote

4. Polish with Tamiya polishing compounds

 

Each method has some pros and cons. The best result I achieved is the method 3. Method 2 works also fine but exposing the uv light longer than needed causes yellowish coloring. But after a certain time it looks again fine (either somehow there is natural bleaching effect or my eyes got used to that color)

Serkan

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