Jump to content

2015 New Tool 1/48 Airfix Spitfire Mki (A05126)


Recommended Posts

This looks fantastic your really making this look its best. To answer your question about the rub n buff I use a primer to go down first then use the rub n buff till I'm satisfied it looks the part, then I coat it with a sealer like Johnson's clear or a good varnish and that seems to do the trick.

Hope this helps for future use keep at it she looks great.

Clive

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well the cockpit is now glued into the fuselage halves so attention turns to the wings. I'm not going to model this with the open gun bays but I thought I would do a VERY rough build of some of the guns just so you get an idea of what they might look like.

Firstly the instructions have you cut out the access panels from the upper and lower wing halves (whcih you will just have to imagine) and then add this piece for the barrel stubs to go into:

DSC_0152.jpg

Then the guns themselves. Be careful here - I didn't realise that the long bits sticking out of the end were supposed to be there, I just assumed they were sprue attachment points!

DSC_0153.jpg

DSC_0155.jpg

And then the ammunition feed boxes (I assume). I didn't have any references to hand so just painted everything black as per the instructions but I've a feeling these should be aluminium.

DSC_0157.jpg

With a lot more work than I've done they could probably look quite good, especially if you added some ground crew figures (which is what I might do for the group BoB build) I was going to take them out after doing this just to have them for the spares but I might keep them in as you can just make them out when you look through the ejection shutes on the underside of the wing.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The guns on the early Mk1 had flash eliminators fitted and 2 on each side protruded through the leading edges, perhaps this what you cut off. If you look at a Tamiya Mk1 you will see them sticking out, so despite the slightly suspect wing shape they got it right there.

Looking good

John

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The guns on the early Mk1 had flash eliminators fitted and 2 on each side protruded through the leading edges, perhaps this what you cut off. If you look at a Tamiya Mk1 you will see them sticking out, so despite the slightly suspect wing shape they got it right there.

Looking good

John

Hi John - the model doesnt have the flash eliminators moulded in place or as add-ons. When I built the old Airfix Mk1 as an early 2 blader I made some by crash moulding them into plastic card with a shaped toothpick. It was fiddly but it worked well - and you only need two!

Cheers

Jonners

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wow just wow. Where do u learn the techniques for adding on the extra details?

Seeing a build like this makes me realise just how utterly distant my chances of ever getting close to this quality are.

Thank you but I really consider myself to be far far far below most of the people who post on here! The only way to learn is by doing. Each model you make teaches you something new and sometimes it all goes horribly wrong and sometimes it doesn't! I still get nervous about deviating from the instructions and cutting away bits that you're not supposed to but when it works it is great fun. Using photoetch can be fiddly and when I started I just ended up with huge dollops of superglue everwhere. If you're new to adding detail I actually wouldn't start with photoetch because it can sometimes be hard to get a really satisfactory result. Maybe start by adding a few extra wires here and there - thin fuse wire is very useful because it can be bent into shape. Also you can add a lot of extra details just by really careful painting of the kit parts - often the detail is already there but just waiting to be brought to life!

  • Like 6
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nice work so far though, there are a few points that need some filling. Try Gunze Mr Surfacer 500.

Keep up the good work!!!

Thanks! The gaps are where parts have just been taped together so no need for filler just yet. Hopefully I'll be able to get it all together without gaps because all previous attempts at using filler have ended in disaster!
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hopefully I'll be able to get it all together without gaps because all previous attempts at using filler have ended in disaster!

That's easy. If you got Gunze's Mr. Surfacer apply it with moderation and after 20 minutes, take a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol (or even better if you have Gunze's thinner) and remove the excess filler.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's easy. If you got Gunze's Mr. Surfacer apply it with moderation and after 20 minutes, take a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol (or even better if you have Gunze's thinner) and remove the excess filler.

Sweet....I've got both so I'll give it a crack with my build!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's easy. If you got Gunze's Mr. Surfacer apply it with moderation and after 20 minutes, take a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol (or even better if you have Gunze's thinner) and remove the excess filler.

Sweet....I've got both so I'll give it a crack with my build!

Just a note to say Mr Surfacer doesn't really work for large gaps ( its just too thin), but is great for small ones and hairlines.

Over the years I've tried a lot of fillers, but have now settled on CA & Talc ( mixable to just about whatever consistency you want, dries quickly and sands out well when its newly hardened), Mr Dissolved Putty ( a thicker form of Mr Surfacer in many ways; and it can be smoothed with liquid cement or Gunze thinner or Alcohol too), and Mr Surfacer for final "top coat" filling and polishing.

If you are worried about filler going everywhere - then just mask either side of the gap with tape and then your filler only fills the bit it's meant to.

Sorry to jump onto Mark's excellent Spit build with general advice that I'm sure a lot of people already know: But if you don't know- then it might be of interest and use. :)

Cheers

Jonners

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I might give Mr Surfacer a try then. I understand there are different grades though- which is best for those odd little fuselage and wing gaps?

In other news, you guys were absolutely right about swopping over the lower leg parts. It was tricky getting them apart but luckily I had used superglue and so tried the trick of sticking them in the freezer for a couple of days and then it was a little easier to separate the pieces. So now they are in the right place and I've just finished gluing the wings to the fuselage. Pics will follow tomorrow!

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here are the corrected undercarriage legs (the wheels aren't glued on yet). I definitely found it easier to get the legs in and angled up as a complete unit rather than as detailed in the instructions - it's just a great shame that the instructions have the wrong numbers!

DSC_0196.jpg

And here with the wings on:

DSC_0199.jpg

DSC_0197.jpg

The fit was very good with no real problems or any need for filler. When attaching the wings I tend to fit the lower wing to the fuselage and then add the upper wings separately because then there is less to try and get in to place all at the same time.

I couldn't resist putting the prop on with a little bit of blue tack:

DSC_0201.jpg

The only problem is that I was so excited about gluing the wings together that I forgot to paint the underside of the wheel well which makes it a tiny bit harder to get a really nice neat finish in there (I'm a member of the hairy stick school) but I'm really looking forward to getting closer to painting her up. Next big job will be rescribing the unarmoured fuel tank panel lines. Luckily because of the different saddle pieces in the kit I have spare parts to practise on!

Thanks for following,

Mark

Edited by markleecarter
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

It looks like a much better fit than my old Airfix Mk 1. That prop (which is big anyway) looks huge from that perspective.

Looking forward to seeing it with some paint on, I presume you will doing the 19 sqdn version with black/white undersides.

Regards

John

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes, I'm doing the 19 squadron option. I'm not sure how it will work as I've not had much luck getting good coverage with white paint.

The prop does look rather big from that angle - here is a more natural angle (note that the fuel tank part is just rested in place - hence the big gaps). Actually it does still look a bit off - maybe it's a little bit too long or pointy, or am I just imagining it?

DSC_0200.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You could cheat a little and use Halfords white plastic primer from a rattle can, it goes on well and the finish is not brilliant white.

As for the prop, The spinner looks OK but the blades don't seem to have the backward rake as seen in the photo of 19 sqdn Mk1s lined up for the press day. The prop in the original Mk1 kit has this and I assumed that Airfix would copy that, but perhaps not.

Or of course it could all be an optical delusion.

John

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...