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Moebius Models 1/8 War Machine (Combat Variant) - Completed


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I bought this a couple of years ago and have wanted an excuse to dig it out of the stash for a while. I'm going to be building it as an operational combat variant in camouflage with lighting.

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There's some nice detail on the base.

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The main torso parts came in a poly bag already off the sprue, I popped them together to give a better idea of the size.

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I love the ironman kits, got a couple of dragon versions.

Don't know why, but a digital or splinter camo seems to come to mind with this.

Looking forward to more progress on this.

Mstt

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I've not really started this one as I'm devoting my (limited) time to my Sherman build. But... I have bought the green LEDs I'm going to be fitting and gave them a quick test. They sit behind the white kit parts and give a lovely graduated glow.

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I've removed the majority of parts from their sprues and cleaned them up today, I did a quick dry fit and it looks like this one will be fairly easy to put together. Now I have to work out how to route the wires through it so I can have sub-assemblies for ease of painting.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Gettign wires through these kits isn't easy - I did it for my Iron Man mk 6 model, putting a power socket in his foot that connected to batteries in a box under the stand and it was a right whatsit, especially as the head was designed to be attached to the torso before the chest plates were added which was complicated with all the wires to light up the eyes!

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The best solution to the lighting is to use header pins and sockets on a small piece of veroboard. That way you can build the head and arms up separately then connect them into the sockets as you add them to the torso. The Arc light can be soldered directly to the veroboard and supply wires run through one leg with pins on to connect it all to a battery box.

Simples!

Cheers,

Warren

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  • 4 weeks later...

Gettign wires through these kits isn't easy - I did it for my Iron Man mk 6 model, putting a power socket in his foot that connected to batteries in a box under the stand and it was a right whatsit, especially as the head was designed to be attached to the torso before the chest plates were added which was complicated with all the wires to light up the eyes!

The best solution to the lighting is to use header pins and sockets on a small piece of veroboard. That way you can build the head and arms up separately then connect them into the sockets as you add them to the torso. The Arc light can be soldered directly to the veroboard and supply wires run through one leg with pins on to connect it all to a battery box.

I've designed the wiring to allow me to assemble the figure's main components after painting and solder the wires directly to some veroboard, fitted to the underside of the kit stand, and powered by a CR2032 battery.

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This is how I'm going to be able to run the wires down through the torso once painted, I've made a funnel from a drinking straw and some plastic card. As I fit the arms and head I will use tweezers to guide the wires into the funnel and pull the wire through from underneath. The chest plate will be fitted last.

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Here's where they will come out and they will then be threaded down another tube running through the right leg and into the base.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

The first part of the camouflage is on :) It's a mix of Revell's acrylic 08 Black with a little 09 Anthracite to tone it down. Once dry I masked it buy "splodging" some Humbrol Maskol on using the wrong end of a hairy stick.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I had a major disaster with this one last week. The Humbrol Maskol I recently bought must have been sitting on the shelf in the shop for some time, it decided it was going to turn into a hard glue instead of a easy to remove flexible mask. I had to strip the whole kit and start from scratch. A whole week of spraying and masking wasted :weep:

After attacking it with some Fairy Power Spray and scrubbing the paint off, I used soapy water to loosen the Maskol and removed it with tweezers. I washed everything and left it for 48 hours to ensure it was thoroughly dry inside and out before testing the LEDs. I'm glad to say that they survived multiple immersions in water :) I primed it again and started painting, this time with a hairy stick as I don't have enough time to spray it again. (I've got 3 nights over the next week to finish it due to various commitments, this will be a close one :unsure: ) In some way I'm glad that everything went pear shaped as I've decided to replace the dark earth base layer with Revell's Leaf Green to make it a proper jungle camouflage.

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Cheers guys :)

Here are some updates...

The panel lines are done.

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Gatling, arm guns and missile pack painted and detailed.

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Thrusters painted.

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I've started the base. It was very warped so I've built up the sides with plastic card to level it.

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The studs are for the veroboard to screw into and the whole in the back is for the switch.

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I'm running the LEDs off a CR2032 battery.

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