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1/8 Citroen Traction Avant - revisited


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I've assembled the front wheels and fitted the tyres.

The tyres were rubbed back with 600 wet and dry as they were very glossy out of the box.
Weathering is matt earth thinned down and some matt grey.

The pictures make the tyres look as if the car has been through a muddy field but in reality the weathering is far more subtle, and lighter.
Another disadvantage of flash photography.

There's no weathering to the wheel centres as the hub caps glue over them.
Also, the wheels aren't fitted yet as they will just get in the way...

Roy.

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that last photo is just incredible Roy - really looks the business. In the right setting that would easily be mistaken for the real thing

That's seriously kind coming from a master like you.

The last pic has made me notice that the insides of the wheel rims are FAR too clean....

It will be attended to.

Roy.

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This just keeps getting better and better. The realism is unbelievable. You should ease up on the modesty and bask in the praise - it's thoroughly deserved.

Some incredibly kind comments.

This really is the first model I've ever tried to weather so your words are very much appreciated.

Roy.

Edited by roymattblack
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Roy! You can never get too much praise, and you deserve all, and more, of the praise on here. This build is remarkable, if mine comes out half as good as this, I will be a happy man.

Regards,

Larry.

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All you guys are extremely kind.
I'm just hopeful that my waffle will be of help to anyone.

I've sorted the radiator and weathered it using Googled pics of real car rads.
I was quite surprised at just how dirty and rust stained old rads really are.

Brackets to fit, then add the rad...

The text on the pics is because they will be in my build CD later on.

Roy.

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This is becoming my daily read of choice! Forget the news, I have no idea what is going on in the World, all I know is that this is absolutely stunning work.

Yep, take the photos away from a cutting mat or newspaper, maybe on ceramic tiles that resemble concrete and you've got a real full-sized one to look at!

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All you guys are extremely kind.

I'm just hopeful that my waffle will be of help to anyone.

I've sorted the radiator and weathered it using Googled pics of real car rads.

I was quite surprised at just how dirty and rust stained old rads really are.

Brackets to fit, then add the rad...

The text on the pics is because they will be in my build CD later on.

Roy.

Needs a few dead flies embedded in the cores.

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As Larry said, can't say enough about this work and the sharing of it.

Here is my crusty, pissy ol' Rolls radiator:

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Wish I'd seen Roy's before I did this one.... :weep:

Hello all, I disagree with Codger. In my humble opinion they are both spot on.

The Rolls' radiator would have to be less rusty then a Citroen's one, simply because of the difference in care both cars would have received, even when they both have the same age.

My Traction Avant has been weathered as well, both inside and outside. Weathering is not that difficult as a technique. The real difficulty is to know when to stop. Too little is not convincing, too much makes it a rust bucket and your model will have the look of a barn find instead of a used car.

But again, I have been reading your topics and you are both doing a nice job. Keep on going!

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Roy,

At first glance, unless Citroen's are known for really lousy radiators this has the appearance of a radiator that hadn't been flushed in years. It looks like someone removed the radiator cap when it was running hot and overheating and when the cap was removed it blew the rusty water out of the radiator all over everything inside the shroud: otherwise it wouldn't be this rusty overall. It seems a bit at odds with the level of care between the immaculate interior, great paint job and more subtle engine weathering. That's just my opinion of the total overall look of everything together as a whole. Individually, I really like the weathering on the radiator I think it looks great I'm just not sure if it should quite as rusty as it is when compared to everything else. But, who am I to criticize your work? Last thought, it may all somewhat disappear when it's all put together and everything will look right at home. Echoing everyone else, it looks fantastic and I'm not sure anyone else could have made an old Citroen look this real.

Wayne

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No worries Wayne.

All comments gratefully received.

I'll have to take some outdoor shots to post as in'the flesh' the radiator doesn't look so overall red/rusty.
It's quite black with some very faint red wash.

I think it's the indoor lighting and flash that makes the rad look so red/brown.

However, I'll take a good look and see if it needs toning down.

I did look at photo's of real car rads and was surprised at how grubby they really are.

Also as you say, on this car it's a bit irrelevant and slightly pointless as once the car is built the rad is totally hidden anyway....

Roy.

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I've taken the beastie outside - It's sunny...!!!

A few pictures in natural light.
I did actually take Waynes advise and tone the rad down a smidgin with a very thin wash of satin black.
It does indeed bring the rad into line with the rest of the engine area but I've left the front core pretty much alone as that bit gets all the muck and dirt through the front grille

Roy.

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Roy,

You're definitely correct about the difference the lighting makes between indoor and outdoor and also how the flash can over empathize small subtle details. I think I forget that these parts are only an inch or two in size when looking at them. That's a testament to your skills in bringing this car to life. I have to say it looks so real that if I didn't know it's a model in the pictures I would say it's a real car, even sitting on the "groaning box". This is what we all ultimately want to achieve on a build; for the observer to wonder whether what they are seeing is the real thing or a miniature. Having seen most of your other Pocher's and scratch builds I have to say this may be your best effort to date from a completely realistic looking point of view. I think the subtle weathering is what is putting it over the top. It is the next step in your evolution as a master builder of realistic miniatures. I know I will never build this kit but, let me say that I want to be the first on the list for your CD of this build. Your techniques and explanations alone are worth the price of admission on what will certainly be a very entertaining read and reference source no matter the type or scale of car be assembled. One last thing I have to mention here, is this is an example of how well what is essentially an out of the box build can look with proper technique, painting and weathering skills. I know you say that this is your first foray into weathering but I doubt it will be your last. Keep up the good work!

Wayne

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Blinkin' 'eck Wayne.....

I'm reeling under the praise for my efforts - not just from you, but others too.

I never expected people to be so kind with their words.

At the end of the day, it's a box of plastic bits that I'm sticking together.

I am enjoying my first forays into the world of weathering, and trying to get a bit of 'realism' and as you say - it won't be my last attempt.

It really is good fun.

I'm not sure that my build log will be 'entertaining' - It's now up to page 50, and there are over 730 annotated photo's.

And I'm only 2/3 of the way through...!!!

Hopefully, it will be of use to others though.

All the best to everyone not yet bored stiff with my waffle.

Roy.

Edited by roymattblack
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A small amount done today.

Rear wheels assembled and painted, rear hubs/brakes fitted.
I've 'hung' two wheels on the car to make sure they locate on the pegs. The wheels will be fitted properly much later as they will just get in the way - front ones particularly - and I don't want to risk wrecking the 'A' arms and suspension by accidentally catching or knocking a wheel...

Roy.

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Roy,

Do you judge the kit axle stubs sufficiently strong to carry the model's all-up weight? I ask because of the heft of our Pochers (which use brass axlles) and this appears no less of a lightweight.

The springs (or is it torsion bars?) too?

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Mr C.

You are spot on.

There's no way on this little planet the model would stand on its own wheels for more that a few days.
The axles, 'A' arm fixings, shock absorber mounts... the list goes on and on...

It's all plastic and to Hellers' credit, accurately to scale - and incredibly weak.

I'm going to make up some matt black boxes about 12mm x 12mm to go under the car.

2 at the rear, inboard of the wheels, and one at the front, central under the cradle.

A bit of a shame, but there's really no option.
If at some stage I fix it to a plinth - which I might - I'll use small bore brass tube painted black with long screw fixings thought it.

Roy.

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