GordonD Posted February 28, 2015 Share Posted February 28, 2015 The Show I’m not going to waste any time describing Star Trek – unless you’ve been living under a rock for fifty years, you’re familiar with it. Even if you’ve never watched it, the characters of Kirk and Spock have penetrated popular culture enough that you’ve probably heard of them even if you’ve never watched the show. If you’re following this GB then it’s a near-certainty. So instead I’m going to point out something that may have escaped your notice. If you look at a picture of the Enterprise bridge, you’ll see that the doors to the turbolift are not located directly behind Kirk’s chair, but over his left shoulder. However external views of the starship show a circular protrusion at the rear of the bridge which is clearly the position of the lift shaft. And it’s on the ship’s centreline. In the early 1970s a German designer named Franz Josef published a set of Enterprise blueprints and explained away this discrepancy by stating that the entire bridge was rotated 38 degrees anticlockwise, thus matching up the offset doors with the central shaft. As the blueprints came out years after the show went off the air, it was never addressed on screen, and none of the novels (to the best of my knowledge) have explained why this would be done. The movies featured a refitted Enterprise, with a redesign of the entire bridge that included two turbolift shafts, located symmetrically, so neatly sidestepped the question. But next time you watch the show, bear in mind that due to the rotated bridge, during the entire original run Kirk and company were boldly going where no man has gone before – sideways. The Model The bridge is basically a decagon, with one side taken up by the main viewscreen and another (not directly opposite - see above) by the turbolift doors. The remaining eight sides are occupied by the control stations. In the original release of the model, only five of these were supplied, with one side of the bridge left open to allow the details to be viewed from floor level, so to speak. Later reissues included additional parts to allow the entire bridge to be built. I'm considering making those additional three work stations removable for the same reason - we'll see how practical this turns out to be. There are ten sprues moulded in milky-white plastic: these include six figures and ten heads, allowing the builder to choose which crew members to use. The choice is with the main seven cast members, plus Lt. Boma, Lt. Latimer and Yeoman Mears, Sprue Shots Decals Another change from the original release is the decal sheet. I'm not sure what came with the original release but the reissue has beautifully-detailed decals for all the monitor screens, as well as for the control panels. These are moulded with the switches and buttons as seen on the actual bridge set, all of which will have to be sanded off, but I think the final effect will be better than trying to pick out the details with paint. So here we (boldly) go... 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dazdot Posted February 28, 2015 Share Posted February 28, 2015 That looks challenging Looking forward to it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rickpadwick1801 Posted February 28, 2015 Share Posted February 28, 2015 Looking forward to it. I have started work on my builds today. Rick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philp Posted February 28, 2015 Share Posted February 28, 2015 What, no aftermarket PE and lighting kit? I picked up the new release kit last year so will be watching this one. The only thing I don't like is the figures are still super thin from the sides. Haven't decided if I will try to beef anybody up when I get there. Love the new selection of heads they added and the additional bodies. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GordonD Posted February 28, 2015 Author Share Posted February 28, 2015 The only thing I don't like is the figures are still super thin from the sides. Haven't decided if I will try to beef anybody up when I get there. You'd only have to beef up Kirk if you were doing the bridge from the movie era... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GordonD Posted March 1, 2015 Author Share Posted March 1, 2015 First step of the build was to identify the various floor sections. Each part is numbered on the base but the instruction sheet also names them (Communications Deck, Engineering Deck etc.) so I stuck a small piece of masking tape on each one and wrote the name on - easier than trying to make out the moulded number. I also put the pieces together to give me an idea of the size of the finished model. That's an A3 cutting mat so the final product won't be too large, The parts don't lock together solidly; they just butt against each other so care will be needed to make sure they line up properly. You'll also notice that the central area has no floor! A sheet of plasticard will be needed here. I also need to decide what colour the floor should be - some photos show it as grey; others as a light tan. I'm inclined to go for the tan, but I'm not seeing anything in the Humbrol range that matches what I have in mind. That means a trip to the model shop...and you know how that's likely to turn out... 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GordonD Posted March 2, 2015 Author Share Posted March 2, 2015 My Humbrol leaflet is way out of date (which I knew) as when I checked the website I found the perfect colour - 237 Desert Tan, which I picked up at Wonderland this morning. I also remembered to get the plasticard to form the base of the model, so I'm ready to start work on the floor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin W Posted March 2, 2015 Share Posted March 2, 2015 No need to go to the model store, just get them to 'beam' some over. :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GordonD Posted March 2, 2015 Author Share Posted March 2, 2015 No need to go to the model store, just get them to 'beam' some over. :-) I'm worried that the transporter would malfunction and I'd end up with two sets of paint - one "good", and one "evil" which would never dry properly... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GordonD Posted March 6, 2015 Author Share Posted March 6, 2015 Quick update, though no more photos just yet. I've started connecting the floor sections and spraying them - the desert tan 'carpet' looks just as I had hoped. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GordonD Posted March 20, 2015 Author Share Posted March 20, 2015 I have encountered a major problem and I'm not sure of the best way to deal with it. This is the completed ring of floor sections and it is badly misaligned. The protruding section on the left is where the main viewscreen will go, and the inward projections at top and bottom are for the steps down to the central area. These are fine - they line up with the grid pattern on the cutting mat. However on the right-hand side is what will become Uhura's communications console, The inner edge should be parallel to the front of the viewscreen area and it clearly isn't. The inner edge should run alongside the mat's gridline and the point on the outer edge should be on the thicker line marked 15. The net result of all this is that the central 'peninsula' with Kirk's chair and the console where Sulu and Chekov sit, isn't pointing directly at the viewscreen but noticeably to one side. This is what appears to be causing the problem: This is where the turbolift goes and the part appears to be too narrow, forcing Uhura's floor section to bend in at too tight an angle, if you follow. The only solution I can think of is to cut the turbolift section out and reattach it with plasticard padding on either side so that the parts align properly. This will result in gaps on either side of the turbolift doors but I can block them off with plasticard. Unless anybody has a simpler solution? UPDATE: The problem is worse than I thought. I have detached the turbolift and Uhura's floor sections and found that it's not just a case of expanding the ring. Everything is perfectly aligned with the exception of Uhura's floor panel, which simply will not fit properly! To get it square and centred it would be way outside the ring, as below: Reducing the width is not an option because the wall consoles would no longer fit. I am stumped here - I feel I'll have to choose between building the model as it is, with the central 'peninsula' being at an odd angle, or cheating by adjusting the rear edge so it sits straight but isn't lined up properly with Uhura's panel (which would not be as noticeable to the observer,) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitestar12chris Posted March 20, 2015 Share Posted March 20, 2015 Hi Gordon did a little digging for you, the command station is not parallel to the screen in the model see link below http://culttvman.com/main/ihobbyexpo-2013-star-trek-kits-from-round-2/ shock horror, this is actually correct, see link below scroll through the pics, the screen is offset to one side http://www.startrekpropauthority.com/2008/08/some-rare-star-trek-original-series.html all the best Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GordonD Posted March 20, 2015 Author Share Posted March 20, 2015 Chris, thanks for that. I'm still going to try to get Uhura's floor section lined up a little better than it is at the moment. If I take a small amount off the left-hand edge it should sit a little straighter without affecting the back panel too much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philp Posted March 20, 2015 Share Posted March 20, 2015 Here is a copy of the bridge blueprints. Should be able to blow that up to size and match up to see where else you can adjust, if needed. http://www.cygnus-x1.net/links/lcars/blueprints/uss-enterprise-bridge-sheet-1.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GordonD Posted March 20, 2015 Author Share Posted March 20, 2015 I have come to the conclusion that there is no way to build this kit so that everything lines up properly. The problem is that the turbolift floor section is considerably narrower than all of the others, with the exception of that of the main viewer. On the plans, all of the sections are of equal width. Placing the turbolift opposite the viewer makes everything fit together beautifully - but of course that isn't how the "real" bridge was set out. So even if I can get the communications floor section to lie parallel to the viewer, it won't be centred! I'm going to build the thing as best I can - life is too short to worry. After all, as Patsy said, "It's only a model!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philp Posted March 23, 2015 Share Posted March 23, 2015 Gordon, Have you seen this? http://culttvman.com/main/brian-mulveys-enterprise-bridge/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GordonD Posted March 23, 2015 Author Share Posted March 23, 2015 I've seen several completed models but not that one - thanks. Just a quick update on where I am - I've worked out how to change the angle of Uhura's floor section so that it's parallel to the viewscreen. It won't be directly opposite but I can't do anything about that! That just leaves the turbolift floor section, which will no longer fit as it will be the wrong shape! I will deal with that once I know exactly what shape it needs to be - I suspect I will use the inner and outer edges and as much of the floor area in between as I can, though I'll almost certainly have to cover it over with plasticard sheet. This means I'll lose the textured carpet effect so I might do the same for the whole thing. My enthusiasm for this model has taken a severe battering over the past week or so but hopefully once the floor ring is complete I'll get it back again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GordonD Posted March 27, 2015 Author Share Posted March 27, 2015 For the first time since I discovered the problem, I'm beginning to think I might actually be able to salvage this model. To reiterate and save you scrolling back, there is a fundamental flaw with the kit: if you have a ring consisting of eight pieces of equal size and two more which are considerably smaller, the only way that the ring will be aligned properly is if the smaller parts are opposite each other. In the bridge kit the smaller parts (the floor sections for the viewscreen and turbolift areas) are not opposite, with the result that the ring is distorted - Uhura's floor section connects to Spock's section at the wrong angle and the 'peninsula' on which Kirk, Sulu and Chekov sit points off to one side. Fixing this required attaching Uhura's and Spock's floor sections at the correct angle (using shims of plasticard) so that the front edge of Uhura's area was parallel to the viewscreen. It's not actually directly opposite but fixing that would have required major,major modifications which are beyond my skill level - and probably a second kit. If your head is hurting, here are a couple of photos. I've cut off the front edge of the turbolift floor section and attached it between the parts on either side. Note that the front edge of Uhura's area (to the left of the gap) is now straight - though as I said it's well off-centre as you can tell from the lines on the cutting mat. The next step is to make the main turbolift floor section fit the gap: I'm still deciding the best way to do this, leaving the minimum gaps but ensuring the top edge is square on, so that the part above (which is where the turbolift doors go) is also positioned correctly to meet the control consoles on either side. However I do it, it's going to need a :poo-poo:-load of plasticard shims and filler. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GordonD Posted April 1, 2015 Author Share Posted April 1, 2015 I've now completed the reconstruction of the bridge floor. Here it is before filling and repainting: The 'peninsula' is now straight with respect to the main screen, though it's still well off-centre: I can't fix this completely but I may fit it so that it's slightly better than it is now, though not noticeably off with respect to Uhura's floor section. Here's what I had to do to get things straightened out: I used several small pieces of plasticard fitted vertically to fill in the gaps, then a triangle cut to shape laid on top. As I said before, once I start sanding the filler it is likely to destroy the carpet effect on the bridge floor, but that can't be helped. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitestar12chris Posted April 1, 2015 Share Posted April 1, 2015 Coming along Gordon, looking forward to seeing some more. All the best Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GordonD Posted April 7, 2015 Author Share Posted April 7, 2015 Okay, I now have the bridge the way I want it. It's not perfect, but it's a lot better than the straight-from-the-box version. The 'peninsula' now points straight at the main screen, though it's still off-centre, but there's no way round that. I've also attached the plasticard central floor section. I feel that this is my own personal Kobayashi Maru - Kirk only beat that test by cheating, when he reprogrammed the computer to change the parameters. The only way I could get the bridge to fit together properly was by changing the shape of one of the parts, by cutting it into three and reattaching them. I would point out that the joins on either side of the turbolift floor section aren't quite as bad as they come across in the photo - the angle of the light is causing a shadow. Besides, they're carpet tiles, so there are supposed to be seams... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GordonD Posted April 14, 2015 Author Share Posted April 14, 2015 I'm continuing to find problems with this kit - they're not showstoppers like the floor sections but they are linked. Because the viewscreen floor area is smaller than most, the steps down to the central area are narrower than the other two. Plans of the bridge show that they should all be the same width. It's something that is only apparent if you know it's wrong, so only nerds will be concerned - but I'm a nerd and proud of it! There's a similar problem with the handrail to the right of the turbolift doors (as you face them) and for a similar reason. The annoying thing is that AMT could so easily have got it right with just a little effort...but then I suppose you could say that about any kit. Turning to other matters, I've decided on a slight change of assembly sequence. The control consoles have to be painted and the decals applied before they're attached to the base, otherwise it would be very hard to get the decals positioned properly. I was originally planning to do these one at a time, to reduce any risk of the decals getting scratched (or of getting them mixed up!), but I now feel it would be better to attach two or three of them together to make sure they're exactly aligned, then fit them to the base as a unit. This may take a while as I'm still undecided as to the best colour for the consoles - I had thought Humbrol 65 would do for the background but in a test it's coming out too dark - certainly darker than it has in the past. Maybe it's just not mixed properly or I need a fresh pot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carts Posted April 14, 2015 Share Posted April 14, 2015 You have my admiration Gordon,I remember attempting this kit a few years ago and I couldn't get anything to match up,Looks like you may have cracked it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GordonD Posted April 28, 2015 Author Share Posted April 28, 2015 Here's the first of the wall consoles. This is Uhura's Comms station. When I applied the first decals - the large screens at the top - I anticipated problems because as soon as they touched the plastic they bonded in place and wouldn't let me adjust their position. Fortunately they were almost in the right place and only the tiniest shift was needed, but I wasn't looking forward to the main console. However I needn't have worried as the others did allow me to reposition them in the normal way. 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sithman Posted April 28, 2015 Share Posted April 28, 2015 I like your progress so far Makes me want to get one of these kits. So many happy childhood hours watching this awesome show! I think I will be bad and buy the kit but wait to build it until after your build so I can see what you did ; ) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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