Bedders Posted February 22, 2015 Share Posted February 22, 2015 Really nice - the nose light gives that extra bit of zing that is synonymous with the Reds. Lovely job and an ingenious installation too! Justin 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fritag Posted February 23, 2015 Share Posted February 23, 2015 There is an inner and a outer strap. The inner strap is what first connects the front and rear mouldings together. An arch in then glued on top of the inner strap (it looks like a horse shoe with a flange round the outside). The inner windscreen is bolted to this. The outer strap is glued on the outside of the canopy to cover the joint. That's what you can see halfway along the canopy. Hope this helps explain what you want to know. Ah. Interesting. Close up photos suggest that the external strap may be thinner in width than the internal: (Photographed by Adrian Pingstone on July 17th 2006 and released to the public domain) Have I got that right? PS. Sorry for the thread drift CT - but I know (or at least believe) you're anal enough to want to know for future ref as well 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Booty003 Posted February 23, 2015 Share Posted February 23, 2015 That is fantastic and looks superb. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fatboydim Posted February 23, 2015 Share Posted February 23, 2015 Ah. Interesting. Close up photos suggest that the external strap may be thinner in width than the internal: (Photographed by Adrian Pingstone on July 17th 2006 and released to the public domain) Have I got that right? PS. Sorry for the thread drift CT - but I know (or at least believe) you're anal enough to want to know for future ref as well That's correct. The outer strap is about 53mm wide. The inner strap is wider. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robvulcan Posted February 23, 2015 Share Posted February 23, 2015 That look absolutely wonderful mate. The red looks spot on and that LED really brings it to life. Can I ask what acrylic rod you use and more importantly how you go about bending it to shape as I need to do something similar in the near future. Rob 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Longhorn Posted February 23, 2015 Share Posted February 23, 2015 Nice, good effect with the LED! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leonl Posted February 23, 2015 Share Posted February 23, 2015 Great job the LED brings a really cool dimension to the model.... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
perdu Posted February 23, 2015 Share Posted February 23, 2015 (edited) Ah. Interesting. Close up photos suggest that the external strap may be thinner in width than the internal: (Photographed by Adrian Pingstone on July 17th 2006 and released to the public domain) Have I got that right? PS. Sorry for the thread drift CT - but I know (or at least believe) you're anal enough to want to know for future ref as well When I did my crappy oneI used a thin strip of (possibly) 0.07mm Aizu tape on the outer arch. A thin brushed layer of ModelAir White 71.001 covered the yellow tape and gave it a nicely creamy look As for anal, even if Mark didn't care for the drift I did Driftin'R-Us wherever I am That stuff about the inner and outer arch is incredibly useful I'll be WANTING some thread drift on my Jag build when I get round to doubleglazing the T2 There's a window and an arch on them too, innit peeps. CT that base is better than excellent Let's hear it for S U P E R B chaps Edited February 23, 2015 by perdu 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cheshiretaurus Posted February 23, 2015 Author Share Posted February 23, 2015 Can I ask what acrylic rod you use and more importantly how you go about bending it to shape as I need to do something similar in the near future. I used 5mm acylic tube from ebay (cost about Ā£3.50) to contain the wires but rod would be better if there is no need for it to be hollow. it can be formed by heating in boiling water, oven at around 100-130C, or the way I did it was with a heat gun to keep the heat isolated to the bit you want to bend. I used a 10mm punch as a former but anything round would do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cheshiretaurus Posted February 23, 2015 Author Share Posted February 23, 2015 Also shows how I got the frame in the wrong place, think I might not have got the angle right.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fatboydim Posted February 23, 2015 Share Posted February 23, 2015 I don't think anyone would notice the frame position. The angle looks right. And going by all the positive feed back, people really like your Hawk. It does look really good. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phildagreek Posted February 23, 2015 Share Posted February 23, 2015 Nice. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cheshiretaurus Posted February 23, 2015 Author Share Posted February 23, 2015 Yeah its the angle, I can rest now I know. CT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_gn Posted February 24, 2015 Share Posted February 24, 2015 I used 5mm acylic tube from ebay (cost about Ā£3.50) to contain the wires but rod would be better if there is no need for it to be hollow. it can be formed by heating in boiling water, oven at around 100-130C, or the way I did it was with a heat gun to keep the heat isolated to the bit you want to bend. I used a 10mm punch as a former but anything round would do. Great result - I think the best Red Arrows Hawk I've seen so far, definitely at this scale. To simplify wiring and fitting the LED, would it have been possible to use clear acrylic rod for the stand, and then inserted a smaller diameter piece into the end within the fuselage, which would extend to the nose? You could have put the LED and wiring entirely within the base and used the stand as a long fibreoptic cable I guess? I built an A380 with all the lights working for my son, and it used fibreoptic cable extensively for the smaller lights: If you carefully drill the LED "lens" and insert a cable, you can route it very easily to wherever you need to terminate it. to reduce bulk, you can drill each LED multiple times for multiple fibres if necessary, and flashing LEDs add another feature. Cheers. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wrivera Posted February 24, 2015 Share Posted February 24, 2015 Awesome job; the colour is fantastic!! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cheshiretaurus Posted February 25, 2015 Author Share Posted February 25, 2015 To simplify wiring and fitting the LED, would it have been possible to use clear acrylic rod for the stand, and then inserted a smaller diameter piece into the end within the fuselage, which would extend to the nose? You could have put the LED and wiring entirely within the base and used the stand as a long fibreoptic cable I guess? Might work on some models but on this one cockpit the floor is flush with the inside of the fuselage leaving no room for or anything else so grooves had to be cut into the floor part to take the 0.25mm LED leads and wires. Not enough room for enough fibre on this one. certainly something to consider for some future builds though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squibby Posted December 1, 2016 Share Posted December 1, 2016 Ooh lovely and shiny, great job on the gloss red, it looks smooth as a baby's butt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
F-32 Posted December 7, 2016 Share Posted December 7, 2016 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark4700 Posted December 8, 2016 Share Posted December 8, 2016 In all honesty this is just about the best 1/72 Hawk I've seen. Fantastic model very nicely displayed. Well doneĀ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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