Wolwe82 Posted March 1, 2015 Author Share Posted March 1, 2015 Thanks Cooken i used gunze C (solvent based) white, because i wanted to give it light coats with good covering. Sadly, i did give it too thick coat or maybe not enough of the chipping fluid before.. so the chipping with water did not go well.. It did not want to peel off, i had to cut the paint gently with scalpel and then let the water soak into these scratches, but it usualy led the water straight through all the paint coats to the silver base.. so i had to repaint some of the chips later with OD. It is weird, because on my airfix P-40B i was also using gunze C colours and the chipping went ok.. On the other hand, back then i used hairspray and not original chipping fluid.. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dazdot Posted March 1, 2015 Share Posted March 1, 2015 That looks like a nice white on that covered well 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cookenbacher Posted March 1, 2015 Share Posted March 1, 2015 That's unusual, most people have a hard time getting white paint to cover well, and yours covered too well! More evidence of your magical abilities Wolwe. The 'painted on' chipping on the white looks great. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolwe82 Posted March 2, 2015 Author Share Posted March 2, 2015 (edited) I think it is more evidence of magical Gunze paints I have few shots from progress over the weekend. I did spend most of the time on fading and shading the paints, using oil paints. So far, the wings and tail are finished. I have problem with catching the effect on photos.. in reality it is quite intensive (not too much, but good enough to notice it on the very first view), but on shots, mainly on the bottom side, it is barely noticeable.. And i ll have to give it satin coat yet, i m quite worried it ll totaly dull the effect on photos.. And i wanted to use matt varnish at first.. that would kill the effect for sure on the shots :/ Anyway, here are the shots The bottom side.. in reality, quite dirty (not done the streaks and smoke trails yet), on the shots.. well.. you can see.. Any idea guys how to make the shots better ? I m sure i need better light, but also my camera is somehow changing the colours automaticaly (makes it look brighter) and i do not know how to stop it The flaps and wheel wells needs some wash and drybrushing yet. Also i m thinking if i should do some pin wash overall or not, i do not want the lines to be overdone. While i was taking breaks every now and then from the oil paints work, i did some work on the small parts. Replaced the Academy U/C legs by Sword´s (looks much closer to reality), there i did cut out the pistons, drilled hole to the plastic parts and replaced the piston with brass tube. Originaly i wanted to use needle for the metal look, but 0,7mm was too thin and 0,9mm too thick... and 0,8 i only had the brass tube.. but well, it still looks better. (no pics taken though). I did even try and made whole new U/C legs just from needles, but i could not find out what should i use for the bottom of the legs, where the wheels are joint. The original plastic part was too thick and it is too small for my fingers to make some good looking shape from anything.. Also, some time ago i did buy Agama metalic pastes. They say you can thinn it with special thinner and spray it on the kit, but the more interesting way how to use it is the following - you simply drop some of the metalic paste on clean soft cloth and now you go with the dirty/wet cloth on the bare plastic parts, polishing it and applicating the paste on the plastic parts this way. It works surprisingly great!! You can see, how you "polish" it, you can get very high shine and what is more interesting, the cloth leaves some kind of "texture" on it, depending on the directions you are using for the polishing, giving it very nice effect. Two downsides though. First, you need realy realy SUPERSMOOTH base.. if usual metalic paints show every scratch, the pastes (thanks to the naturaly very thin coat applied) shows every microscratch too! Also, it should be applied on bare plastic only, so you would need realy good fitting kit if you wanted to use it for overall camo. But i can see you could use it for some panels or so. The second downside is, if you touch it, it leaves a bit of the paint on your finger and you might leave fingerprint on it. Fromthe same reason you cant overpaint it, as the paint would not hold good on it. I think some kind of protecting warnish might work (same as for Modelmaster metalizers), but i ll have to check it out first. For the kit i need aluminium spinner, but this is a bit too polished, so i might try and dull it down with satin or matt varnish edit: writing down some details i ll have to add yet -indicators of the landing gear position -radiator flaps with inner details -fuel tank and the holders -u/c legs and details around -flaps -details to the wheel wells -propeller -antenne -mirror on the windshield -haircross gunsight Edited March 13, 2015 by Wolwe82 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vppelt68 Posted March 2, 2015 Share Posted March 2, 2015 That spinner looks like it´d been turned from metal. Nice! V-P 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dazdot Posted March 2, 2015 Share Posted March 2, 2015 That looks good as for the photos can you get manual settings on the light levels for your camera most digital cameras these days will 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolwe82 Posted March 2, 2015 Author Share Posted March 2, 2015 thanks guys Dazdot, i believe there should be something like that (bought nicon L330, as my friend who is working with photos recomended it to me, it works great, but when taking very close shots, mostly on macro, it does the colour changes slightly ), but i cant find it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevej60 Posted March 2, 2015 Share Posted March 2, 2015 Beautiful work as usual Wolwe! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cookenbacher Posted March 2, 2015 Share Posted March 2, 2015 That looks incredible Wolwe! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PlaStix Posted March 3, 2015 Share Posted March 3, 2015 I can only echo what Steve, V-P and Cookenbacher have said! Superb as always!! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skids Posted March 3, 2015 Share Posted March 3, 2015 That is looking totally spot on - amazing 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolwe82 Posted March 4, 2015 Author Share Posted March 4, 2015 Thanks to all of you guys, i m realy happy you like her so far Yesterday i did finish the oil weathering on the fuselage, completed the u/c legs and few more details to the wheel wells, completed and weathered the flaps (no shot taken), finished the radiator flaps and started to work on some staining on the underside. Though, i m not happy with the staining.. If i m using oil paints (to make some old, already "dry" stains), i cant blend it succesfuly and it is else too visible or too BIG and rough.... How do you guys do the staining with oil paints? For fresh oil leaks and stains i m using "fresh engine oil" from Ammo/Mig Jimmenez and it is amazing.. (you can see it on the shots, the darker are oils, the more brown, fresh and glossy is the fresh engine oil stuff) Anyway, some pics And the details added into the wheel wells 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PlaStix Posted March 4, 2015 Share Posted March 4, 2015 Lovely progress Wolwe. Your attention to detail always amazes me. Once again this looks far larger than 1/72. Kind regards, Stix 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dazdot Posted March 4, 2015 Share Posted March 4, 2015 Stunning just stunning 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevej60 Posted March 6, 2015 Share Posted March 6, 2015 Just keeps getting better Wolwe,great stuff! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cookenbacher Posted March 6, 2015 Share Posted March 6, 2015 If I zoomed in that close on one of my builds, it would just look like a moonscape. I love watching your build threads Wolwe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolwe82 Posted March 9, 2015 Author Share Posted March 9, 2015 Thanks a lot guys, realy I was happy with the progress, but then this weekend came... I was going to work mainly on the exhaust staining and also i wanted to work on dusting the surface and underside.. but i did not get to the dusting.. I did some work on the exhaust staining the first day, used much much thinned tamiya and gunze C paints. I wanted to do some effects i could see on some well beaten P-40M/N (streaking over the exhaust staining, paint peeling off under the exhaust staining, revealing fresh paint in middle of the exhaust staining and so on) and as usualy, i could not test it on some special kit .. noo, i had to try it straight on the P-40.. So, the idea was to use mascol, paint thinnnnn streaks over the area where the exhaust staining ll be and do some iregullar dots by using mascol on a sponge over the area as well.. this was the result.. so far, okish Then i thougt it could use some more light grey over the brown (the brown was not so noticeable on the real P-40s on the photos i was studying).. I tried to tighten the trigger rod a bit to give me some limit, some break so i wont open the trigger too much.. AND.. i thought it would be great (else it would NOT or it would need a LOT more practice...) idea, to spray pure pigments, disolved in odourless thinner (which i m using for thinning the oil paints but also as a pigments fixer).. well, it did not work as intended.. Long storry short.. the tightened trigger rod worked ok, untill the trigger got lock in the opened position.. just for a second.. but it was enough to ruin my work.. the pigments with odourless thinner made HUGE light area under the cockpit.. no way to clean it out (the thinner works realy good as a pigment fixer...) and as soon as the thinner dried out, the light pigments did stand out even more.. Cant blame anything but myself... I tried to work it out and save it a bit, but i had to make the exhaust staining HUGE.. and had to do it the same way on the other side too.. There were some P-40s with huge exhaust stainings, but it is not what i wanted to have I did some work on exhaust pipes at least (the dark rust paint i used to repair some patches i ll have to dull down a bit yet) and on the radiator flaps and on the wings flaps too. I was so disapointed i did not want to finish it at all at the first moment..( I ll finish it, but already have another P-40N on the table and thinking about P-40B (Airfix) with Marabu PE (made for it) as next builds... the N should be NMF US or NMF+OD wings RAAF, the B i m thinking about RAF desert scheme or some superb polished warbird Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cookenbacher Posted March 9, 2015 Share Posted March 9, 2015 I'm sorry to see that Wolwe. Like you said, many US P-40's did have massive exhaust stains just like that. I think if you weathered the light colored exhaust stain, just like you would a top coat, it could end up very special. It seems to me that in many reference pics, the exhaust stain itself is very weathered, especially along panel lines. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dazdot Posted March 9, 2015 Share Posted March 9, 2015 I'm sure you can turn it around, mate don't give up on it believe me its not the end of the road with your obvious talent Darren 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vppelt68 Posted March 10, 2015 Share Posted March 10, 2015 I don´t think it looks bad. Just like the exhaust had caught flames and burned the paintwork on the fuselage. V-P 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PlaStix Posted March 10, 2015 Share Posted March 10, 2015 (edited) Hi Wolwe. Until I read your text I was thinking how good the exhaust stain looked! As has been mentioned above some of the real ones had massive exhaust stains. I know it's not what you had in mind but I think with some careful additional work it will look great. As I said - if you hadn't mentioned it I would have thought it was how it was meant to be.Don't give up on it - it's already a fine looking model!Kind regards,Stix Edited March 10, 2015 by PlaStix 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolwe82 Posted March 12, 2015 Author Share Posted March 12, 2015 Realy BIG thanks to you guys for your support, your words did realy cheer me up. I thought it is over, was already thinking more about new kit and not about finishing this one, but you guys gave me the so much needed moral boost to continue with this little baby, so thanks realy Yesterday i had finaly some free time again to work on this. The quest was already given - do something with the exhaust stain.. As you guys said, the big exhaust stains are usualy heavily weathered itself. I did go again through -load of photos and as you also mentioned - often there was darker areas visible around the panel lines (for whatever reason it was, somewhere the panels do not have smooth joints, somewhere it looks like oil leaks through or settles down between the panels and so on..), so i tried to simulate this.. it is a bit overdone mainly on the back areas, but still better then before i hope. I also added some tan colour to the exhaust stain, mainly closer to the exhausts, but it is not that much noticeable on the photos (overall the effects all over the plane are barely noticeable, i ll have to get some better light for the final shots, because in real you can see the dust on the wings and discoloured OD a lot more then it is on the photos.. ) Next i did some work with pigments (earth, sand, dust, brown-red and more and also some mixed colours) to make some dust and mud around the airframe (mainly top side of wings where mechanics would be moving when reloading and underside behind wheel wells and on the flaps, where the dust and mud would appear while operating from dusty airfields). I did also add few details here and there - made new mirror over windshield from evergreens (the kit does not contain it), added indicators of landing gear position (maybe i ll have to paint these with some darker yellow yet), propeller, made the whip antenne on the back and the static energy "decharger" (wire under tail), wheels + tail wheel... Finaly made new canopy mid part. At first i thought i ll use the canopy frame from Marabu set, but it is made for AZ/Legato kit and the Academy has the higher canopy (i think it is generaly known Academy P-40E/M/N mistake..), so the Marabu canopy frame was too small for the original windshield (it did not reach the canopy rails). I used the original Academy canopy as a form and pulled hot clear plastic foil over it to make new canopy base. After cuting it out, i wanted to make the framing. There are few ways how to do it, i wanted to use self-adhesive metal foil strips to it, but i did not have any at home so i used tamiya tape instead. The result is not perfect when looking from close range, but from half meter you wont notice it anyway Also i started to work on the fuel tank. The Academy fuel tank is more just parody... I took fuel tank from Sword kit and followed photos of the real P-40E fuel tank (i guess for M it was the same) and its "rack". At first i did drill 4 holes where the main struts ll hold the tank. Then i used 0,8mm brass tube pieces to make some "rings". Inside these rings ll be the joints for the fuel tank holders. The idea is, i can now use 0,6mm brass tubes (or needles) for these main fuel tank holders (aiming like towards the wing tips), pull wire through these and stuck the wire inside the brass tubes in the fuel tank. After that i ll take pliers and flatten the edges of the holders. Next i can take another wires, stuck these again inide the brass tubes in fuel tank and lead these to the centre of wing. http://www.cybermodeler.com/aircraft/p-40/pages/pof_p-40-04.shtmlhere is shot which can show you what did i mean The fuel hose ll be added there also. So here are few shots of the progress The mirror on the windshield The exhaust staining and pigments work around airframe Some detail of the wheel wells and U/C + doors. Also you can see the levers of the radiator flaps And some work on the fuel tank. The triangle holders are a bit oversized, but it was the smallest i could cut out of piece of metal (leftover from PE set). I did also made some scratches and little damage to the tank. More work ll be done tonight Next 3 days i m off, so next progress (or next kit) ll continue at monday 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dazdot Posted March 12, 2015 Share Posted March 12, 2015 Well done Wolwe nice to see you get back on the horse it looks fantastic BTW 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolwe82 Posted March 12, 2015 Author Share Posted March 12, 2015 Thanks dazdot and once again thanks for the supporting words Same thanks goes to others who supported me as well ofcourse Thats why i love being part of BM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevej60 Posted March 12, 2015 Share Posted March 12, 2015 Wolwe,that looks outstanding and the issue with the staining after the extra work carried out just is,nt an issue any more! great job. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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