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1/72 Airfix Do17Z & Defiant Dogfight Double - or A Rake's Work in Progress - Pic Heavy


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Yes, a definite investment, I should love to get the set but I suspect I will always find something else just slightly more necessary...

Indeed, however for anyone else wavering, can I present this snippet, copyright clearly with the author and publishers but I don't suppose they'll mind if you all buy a copy!

15862720374_b768e104e7_b.jpg75 years ago today by jongwinnett, on Flickr

The page for 9th February 75 years ago. And every page is as good, if not better...

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I wasn't really in the mood for any heavy work after that, so I de-sprued, assembled and undercoated the crew:

DSCN2491.jpg

They are a bit of a disappointment after the excellently-sculpted Defiant crew figures, but I think they will paint up okay and will suffice. The undercoat is a Citadel acrylic called rather charmingly 'Ratskin Flesh' but it does provide a good base for brown, yellow and the skin shader and lighter tone to follow.

Cheers,

Stew

The lads look right at home sitting on that stick.

I swear number two is giving me the "thumbs up" :winkgrin:

Looking forward to seeing what you do with them and the rest of the build.

Chocks away Stew!

Cheers

Bruce

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Cockpit is looking good. Ratskin Flesh...I'll have to get a bottle of that on general principle alone, even if I never use it. Regarding the Hataka paints, and forgive me for it would never be my attention to be an accessory to blocking up someone's airbrush, but do you think you could get away with spraying them neat? Perhaps with a large tip. By the sounds of it they almost have the consistency of Alclad. Just a thought.

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I carefully peeled the mask off after spraying and stuck the mask pieces back on the vinyl backing sheet.

OK, I'll admit it, I've done this too. And not just the vinyl masks, I've reused the tape masks as well. :)

I've found that you have to be very careful removing the vinyl masks. First, you can stretch them if you pull too hard. Second, if you spray Future (Kleer) over the top of the masks prior to painting the model (in order to seal the edges) you'll find that the paint doesn't adhere well to the vinyl mask. (I think it's actually the Future that doesn't stick to the vinyl.) So when you remove them, little flecks of paint end up everywhere. The vinyl ends up surprisingly clean. Easy to blow away the flecks with a blast from your airbrush, but still can be messy.

I reuse the Eduard tyre masks all the time - I have some that I've probably used four or five times. Cheapskate! :)

Cheers,

Bill

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Indeed, however for anyone else wavering, can I present this snippet, copyright clearly with the author and publishers but I don't suppose they'll mind if you all buy a copy!

15862720374_b768e104e7_b.jpg75 years ago today by jongwinnett, on Flickr

The page for 9th February 75 years ago. And every page is as good, if not better...

Damn your eyes sir, if you are going to tempt me so flagrantly at least provide the link where you got all five volumes for the price of four! :bounce:

The lads look right at home sitting on that stick.

I swear number two is giving me the "thumbs up" :winkgrin:

Looking forward to seeing what you do with them and the rest of the build.

Chocks away Stew!

Cheers

Bruce

Bruce, I reckon that chap is giving the thumbs up because he is actually being included in the build; Airfix provide four seated crew (as shown) but the ventral gunner would only use the provided seat for take-off and landing - the rest of the time he would be laying down in the back manning his gun... so I considered not installing him for a more realistic effect. Then I thought, hold on, it's going to measure about a foot across the wings, that's going to counteract any attempts at realism quite strongly so I relented and let him stay :D

Cockpit is looking good. Ratskin Flesh...I'll have to get a bottle of that on general principle alone, even if I never use it. Regarding the Hataka paints, and forgive me for it would never be my attention to be an accessory to blocking up someone's airbrush, but do you think you could get away with spraying them neat? Perhaps with a large tip. By the sounds of it they almost have the consistency of Alclad. Just a thought.

Hey Tom, apparently all the Citadel Paints have names like that, I imagine they all serve a more illustrative purpose if you actually play the Games Workshop games :D - as for spraying the Hataka paints, I reckon you could spray them neat - they are not actually particularly watery (about the same as Vallejo Air and perhaps a bit thicker than the AK paint, much thicker than Alclad)... but with high enough pressure you could probably spray powder paint. However I prefer a (much) lower pressure and I think at those sort of levels it would definitely clog the AB, if it even sprayed at all. That's why I am reluctant to contradict Ultimate Thinners and their chart, a lot depends on the air pressure used as well as the paint-thinner mix.

OK, I'll admit it, I've done this too. And not just the vinyl masks, I've reused the tape masks as well. :)

I've found that you have to be very careful removing the vinyl masks. First, you can stretch them if you pull too hard. Second, if you spray Future (Kleer) over the top of the masks prior to painting the model (in order to seal the edges) you'll find that the paint doesn't adhere well to the vinyl mask. (I think it's actually the Future that doesn't stick to the vinyl.) So when you remove them, little flecks of paint end up everywhere. The vinyl ends up surprisingly clean. Easy to blow away the flecks with a blast from your airbrush, but still can be messy.

I reuse the Eduard tyre masks all the time - I have some that I've probably used four or five times. Cheapskate! :)

Cheers,

Bill

Well I am gratified to hear that it isn't just me Bill, and in fairness if you get the vinyl mask off without wrecking it, why would you throw it away? I don't throw away my brushes or my scalpel every time I use them :D You must have a deft touch to get the Eduard wheel masks off intact though :worthy:

Cheers,

Stew

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Watching with interest Stew, I'm wondering how those AK paints will be for colour match and spreadability (is that a real word?). I've also got the Do17 sitting in the stash but I'm not allowed to start anything else until all my part builds are finished so that'll be sometime in 2021 at this rate!

Duncan B (sorely tempted to order those books too but a bit strapped this month)

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Duncan, you're in my neck of the woods aren't you? If you can wait, I'll be happy to lend them to you once I have read through :)

I'm not sure how the AK paints will perform, I wanted to try the Hataka paints first, and since the RLM02 appears to work better this morning I'll carry on with my trial of those for now. I made up a mix with Ultimate Thinners at about 75/25 paint to thinner and I was much happier with the result:

DSCN2492.jpg

That was a second coat on yesterday's efforts, but this is a first coat:

DSCN2493.jpg

It went on smoothly and covered well, I think I will stick to that mix for the pressure that I spray at.

DSCN2494.jpg

So the next jobs are doing the detail painting in the interior - mostly radio gear and spare MG magazines - and working on the crew for Dornier 1 (the dogfight one) - Dornier 2 will be uncrewed with wheels and flaps down, bombdoors open etc.

Cheers,

Stew

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It's looking good under the paint Stew. Good you managed to find a mix you are happier with. I shall be interested to see how you paint all the detail - I would have spent hours painting the insides before assembling everything.

Edited by PlaStix
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That paint mix looks much better than the watery attempt yesterday. Colour match for RLM02 looks good too.

I'm just outside Brechin when not bobbing about on the briny. I've just gone and ordered the books too! (the dog'll have to find his own food this month)

Duncan B

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It's looking good under the paint Stew. Good you managed to find a mix you are happier with. I shall be interested to see how you paint all the detail - I would have spent hours painting the insides before assembling everything.

Most of the detail is still accessible, I would have left the chairs out given the choice but foresaw no end of trouble sticking them back in when everything was painted. I think only the throttle box next to the pilot's seat will be a bit tricky, everything else is pretty much as accessible as it was on the sprue.

That paint mix looks much better than the watery attempt yesterday. Colour match for RLM02 looks good too.

I'm just outside Brechin when not bobbing about on the briny. I've just gone and ordered the books too! (the dog'll have to find his own food this month)

Duncan B

Ah, Duncan :fraidnot: I see that your policy for avoiding temptation is simply to give in to it too... I already have the dog's food sorted but I'd better make damn sure I don't spend any more on kits this month. Brechin - a bit further away than I thought, I think the nearest I've been is Montrose (and only through there on the Aberdeen train) - looks nice though, very scenic.

Yep, I was much happier with that mix of paint, the colour looks pretty good too, maybe a touch browner than I might expect but if so literally only a touch, and that might be down to the lighting.

Cheers,

Stew

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Looking good so far Stew, nice to see you have the paint mix sussed out so far will be good to see how the rest go. I like using Model Master as you can use it straight from the pot as I hate thinning down (a dispised chore from my enamal days!) what sort of finish are they? matt or satin?. Keep up the good progress!

Bob

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You must have a deft touch to get the Eduard wheel masks off intact though :worthy:

Just a fresh #11 blade and a pair of tweezers with points so sharp they can pick up molecules. :)

Cheers,

Bill

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Looking good so far Stew, nice to see you have the paint mix sussed out so far will be good to see how the rest go. I like using Model Master as you can use it straight from the pot as I hate thinning down (a dispised chore from my enamal days!) what sort of finish are they? matt or satin?. Keep up the good progress!

Bob

Thanks Bob; I prefer to buy unthinned acrylics as a matter of principle, otherwise I feel like I am paying someone to add water to my paint :huh: - though obviously in terms of ease of use and consistency pre-thinned paint does have its advantages... the Hataka paint has a flat/matt finish (although presumably the internal aluminium colour in the Polish set will be glossy or at least satin finish).

Just a fresh #11 blade and a pair of tweezers with points so sharp they can pick up molecules. :)

Cheers,

Bill

Bill, I too have those things... I suspect there must be some absence of ham-fistedness required too... :D

Cheers,

Stew

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To 06/24, don't worry all the blame is being aimed at Stew as I've now gone and purchased the AK Interactive Luftwaffe paint set and the Luftwaffe desert paint set from Hataka. So it is clear to all that Stew is the bad influence, he'll have me breaking my vow not to start the Do17 before I've finished my other stuff next. (no food for the chickens now but at least that is good news for the dog!)

Duncan B

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Can I just take this opportunity to apologise to any starving dogs, and I hope the SSSPCA are not en route to my door...

"You did what with my dinner money?"

DSCN2506.jpg

Coming along rather nicely! :coolio:

Mike. :)

Thanks Mike, it looks pretty complex on the sprues but so far so good... :)

To 06/24, don't worry all the blame is being aimed at Stew as I've now gone and purchased the AK Interactive Luftwaffe paint set and the Luftwaffe desert paint set from Hataka. So it is clear to all that Stew is the bad influence, he'll have me breaking my vow not to start the Do17 before I've finished my other stuff next. (no food for the chickens now but at least that is good news for the dog!)

Duncan B

I should imagine your dog food bill rather dwarfs mine in much the same way as your dog would; as for the chickens, well they are happy enough eating grass so I am sure they will get by... I hope you get on okay with the paint, I am happy to take the blame so long as the outcome is favourable. I believe I am what is known as an 'enabler' and an 'overt' one at that :D

Only a little progress last night, I applied a Citadel brown wash to the interiors followed by a dry brush of RLM02 - it perhaps looks a little excessive at this stage, but I am sure it will barely be visible once the fuselage is all buttoned up:

DSCN2501.jpg

DSCN2502.jpg

I also did the first coat of the crew's overalls, but it is not a sufficiently significant difference to merit a pic. Next jobs are to carry on with the crew and do the detail painting in the cockpit...

Cheers,

Stew

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"You did what with my dinner money?"

DSCN2506.jpg

Thanks Mike, it looks pretty complex on the sprues but so far so good... :)

Only a little progress last night, I applied a Citadel brown wash to the interiors followed by a dry brush of RLM02 - it perhaps looks a little excessive at this stage, but I am sure it will barely be visible once the fuselage is all buttoned up:

DSCN2502.jpg

I also did the first coat of the crew's overalls, but it is not a sufficiently significant difference to merit a pic. Next jobs are to carry on with the crew and do the detail painting in the cockpit...

Cheers,

Stew

That looks very nice Stew.

Is the Citadel wash applied neat with a brush?

Do you have to apply a gloss coat or other clear layer to your RLM02 before applying the Citadel wash?

I'm looking for a simple no fail method to apply wash and your result looks really good

Cheers

Bruce

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Hey Bruce :)

I just slapped it on neat, fairly but not excessively thickly, with a brush, straight on top of the RLM02, no gloss varnish or Klear or anything. I thought as the stuff is supposed to be used as a wash for acrylic paint it would be okay, and it seems to be. The colour is called 'Agrax Earthshade', I thought a brown shading on RLM02 would be better than black.

Cheers,

Stew

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Stew, little to say except the obvious, excellent and informative progress so far. Your pics will be far more use to anyone else doing one than my witterings were. Will keep tabs on progress and look forward to the result(s).

To anyone inspired by your work this might be of interest - no connection - http://www.hobb-e-mail.com/airfix-50170-new.html

Stu

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..pretty impressive cockpit for the scale and neat finishing - do the two fuselage halves still go together OK with all those internals ?

was hoping to do a Defiant this week, but none of the locals shops seem to have it in stock - however the Do 17 is on the shelves !

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