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Westland Sea King Mk.50, RAN


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  • 2 weeks later...

Despite my lack of progress updates I've been tinkering quite a lot. I wasn't entirely happy with the cockpit so I stripped out my previous work and went about some re-modelling. Perhaps a little hard to see but I blended in and re-scribed the cockpit floor adding a few rivets here and there, added some etch seat belts and control panels, scratch built the panel in the corridor behind the cockpit, removed, re-painted and re-fitted the cabin seating (as per my previous gaffe), knocked up a few more cabin bulkheads and generally fiddled around a lot. I must say that it's probably easier doing this sort of work before closing up the fuselage but oh well, such is the way my mind works.

Elsewhere I've built and tidied up most of the sub-assemblies including the sponsons, sand filter, etc. and done a lot of fettling and sanding to get the tail fold to blend in nicely. More to come including canabilising some eduard etch for the cyberhobby kit to build up some more exterior and interior detail. I'm hoping to make it by the closing date for the build, as long as I don't get tempted to take off the cabin door and fit my airwaves steps!.

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Quick question.

How do the Sea King modellers here go about painting the yellow window frame (presumably indicating an emergency exit) for the pilots' windows inside the canopy? I'm contemplating masking the inside but is there an easier way. One thought is spraying the yellow over an externally masked canopy but I don't know if that would look right. A decal would be a nice option given how hard yellow is to paint but alas, none to be seen in my Revell kit.

Andrew

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Hi Andrew, Instead of yellow I've done red and white chevrons. This is what I have done: after masking the windows, I applied some more masking tape where the edges of the frame would be and painted small red lines with a brush. Once dry I then painted over the area with white primer. Once that was dry I removed the mask for the framing and then painted the rest of the clear parts with cockpit colour. Whether it will work or not is yet to be seen. You could try painting the area yellow and when dry I would say it best to paint over the yellow with white paint or white primer before painting the cockpit colour. I just brush painted on my build but no harm in using the airbrush as yellow can be a nightmare to brush paint. I don't think you'd need much and even if the yellow is still a little transparent the white ontop should help it when viewed from through the window (if that makes sense?)

In my WIP thread, amongst the last photos you can just make out some of the red lines.

*edit* here we go, note the small red lines under the cockpit colour. Hope this helps explain what I mean

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HTH

cheers

Aaron

*another edit* I should have a spare canopy for another aircraft. I might try what I described above on that to see how it looks, I could try it with yellow as well then get some pics up. I really should have done that in the first place but I had already glued the canopy in place before I thought about that framing.

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You mention decals, have you thought about decal stripes? Fantasy printshop do a range of colours in various sizes including yellow http://www.fantasyprintshop.co.uk/_A6AIN.aspx?nh=55219 They are based in the UK so I'm not sure how long shipping would take & cost to Australia; maybe worth checking if a company closer to home does something similar?

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Thanks Aaron, I think I'll do it as you suggest, yellow from outside, then white primer (would never have thought of that) and then frame colour.

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I finished off the interior this morning based on a comprehensive set reference photos of Shark 07 at the RAN Fleet Air Arm museum in Nowra, Australia. I stumbled across these on the Internet of all places.Shark 20 may not have had exactly the same layout, but in the absence of any other information I've made a big assumption that all/most post-LOTE cabins would be similar. Shark 07 did spend time in combat and was fitted with a cabin door machine gun mount but I didn't include that. The reference photos had the improved high impact seating installed, I assume, in response to the fatal Shark 02 crash in Nias. As my subject pre-dates that incident, I've used the standard collapsible canvas seating but assumed (again rightly or wrongly) that the layout would be similar.

One big lesson I've learned from this build is to always get my references sorted out before construction - in this case I jumped in prematurely but have hopefully come up with a broad general representation of a late-90's RAN Sea King. The other lesson of course is to construct cockpits and cabins BEFORE closing up the fuselage.

So first of all the cockpit, I installed Eduard etch belts, instrument panels and roof console modified from the Cyberhobby set, and scratch built a extra few odds and ends including the sheepskin cushion for the pilots and some new rudder pedals on the port side. In the passage behind the cockpit I knocked up a bulkhead with jump seat, bag and first aid kit which generally fits several reference photos I have.

The photos were taken in mixed lighting so there may be some colour casts between inside and outside the cabin. Rest assured, it's all the same shade of grey.

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Looking through into thee cabin I have rows of seating each side of the cabin. The post-LOTE fit-out was basically a utility role so this makes sense too. Fitting the seats in the already closed up fuselage was a little challenging and I used some hopefully well hidden bases and lots of plastic cement to get good adhesion to the already painted cabin floor. The roof console (not shown here but made from Eduard etch) will extend out from above the central cabin arch.

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Adjacent to the main cabin door is an operators station cloaked in what appears to be a greyish/silver tarpaulin. I modified a suitably looking kit part with some plastic card, rod and aluminum kitchen foil tin make a representation of that. The seat frame was all scratch-built around the kit seat. I also installed sound-proofing on the cabin walls that are visible through the open doorway.

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And finally in the rear of the cabin some more seating folded either side and what looks to be rescue equipment hanging of the rear bulkhead.

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So there you have it - cabin and cockpit done (well almost), fuselage closed and now ready to install the canopy and get down to some exterior detailing.

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Fantastic work Andrew. I know what you mean about references, I had the same issue with my build. Couldn't find definitive shots of the interior of the BEA 61N's used in the north sea so made an educated guess from other resources. Only to stumble on some photos after I had finished most of it... oh well :)

cheers

Aaron

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Fantastic work Andrew. I know what you mean about references, I had the same issue with my build. Couldn't find definitive shots of the interior of the BEA 61N's used in the north sea so made an educated guess from other resources. Only to stumble on some photos after I had finished most of it... oh well :)

cheers

Aaron

Thanks Aaron. Helicopters are rather challenging in this aspect as there is just so much more interior detail that isn't easily seen in typical walk-around photographs. In the case of these Sea Kings its a major component of the build, something I had seriously under-estimated. It's also a very rewarding and challenging part of modelling which keeps the old grey matter functioning.

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Totally agree with you regards the interior comments. as challenging as it is, it is very rewarding and at times therapeutic (when it goes well of course :P ). I know we have spoke about this before but I really enjoy detailing the interior of helicopters.

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I worked on the main rotor fold today. I made the mechanism crudely functional (and as roughly equivalent to the real thing as 1/72 allows) so that I can tweak the positioning when it comes time to fit it to the completed fuselage. The hinges aren't cut from solid styrene sheet, rather they are made with 6 rows each of thin styrene strip (then sanded smooth). This allows the hinges to "mate" cleanly at whatever angle is required. The plastic pins holding the hinge to the main rotor head allow them to swivel as required to fine tune the positioning. Once in final position I'll superglue it all tight and then cut the heads off the pins. They'll be some wiring etc and other odds and ends to add once mounted. I enjoy this aspect of modelling ... very intricate but very rewarding.

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If you deiced to cast this rotorhead and blades in resin put me down for a couple

Rodders

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Hi Rodders, no plans to cast them. They were however quite easy to scratch build once I hit on the idea of building them up from evergreen strip rather than cutting them from solid sheet as I did on my Wessex.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Unfortunately I won't be able to make today's deadline for the Sea King group build. I've made some solid progress the last few weeks but long hours at work and unsuitable airbrushing weather conspired against me. I am however very pleased with my progress and am just about ready to put on the undercoat. I look forward to all the great builds in the Sea King gallery.

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  • 3 months later...
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