SleeperService Posted February 8, 2015 Posted February 8, 2015 Two comments; Great work so far keep it up. Be VERY careful using the screws in the axle ends. The plastic strips very easily. Just enough to bottom the wheel and not a twitch more. Oh and make sure the drive sprocket turns because getting the track on otherwise is a nightmare. 1
PlaStix Posted February 9, 2015 Author Posted February 9, 2015 Two comments; Great work so far keep it up. Be VERY careful using the screws in the axle ends. The plastic strips very easily. Just enough to bottom the wheel and not a twitch more. Oh and make sure the drive sprocket turns because getting the track on otherwise is a nightmare. Hi SleeperService. Thank you, I will try to!And thank you for the sound advice - I've never made a kit where it relies on so many screws to hold plastic parts together. I will try to be really careful. Thank you. Kind regards, Stix 2
PlaStix Posted February 15, 2015 Author Posted February 15, 2015 (edited) My morning's couple of hours on this project were far more relaxing than yesterday's five hours struggling with decals for my double Spitfire build!! Wheels today - quite a few of them - and a lot of them attached with screws - which was different. I followed SleeperService's advice and attached all the screws carefully - making sure none of them were too tight. I started the process with the idlers: Once I'd got into a rhythm the whole process went relatively quickly. Two rows of wheels attached and the drive sprockets: One thing I would mention at this point is that Skybow's instructions appear to be wrong in a couple of places. They suggest screws should be used a couple of times where they clearly shouldn't be and some of the wheel parts on the instructions are numbered wrong. The images on the instructions do show the correct parts to be used and with careful checking I was able to assemble everything in what seems like the correct order. Third row: Outer row: Hub/screw covers fitted on one side: And a couple of photos of both sides with everything in place: Front view showing the drive sprockets: Last job this morning was fixing the front hatches in place: And a quick test fit of the upper hull with the lower hull: So far I am very impressed with the detail and fit of the kit. Comments and suggestions welcome. Kind regards, Stix Edited February 15, 2015 by PlaStix 6
JackG Posted February 15, 2015 Posted February 15, 2015 (edited) This is looking great, and I've never seen road wheels attached with metal screws like this - interesting! Just one detail I noticed, it looks the teeth on the drive sprockets are completely worn to a metallic colour? Here's a close up of the Bovington Tiger, might give better idea how they wear, click the pic for larger view: regards, Jack Edited February 15, 2015 by JackG 1
PlaStix Posted February 15, 2015 Author Posted February 15, 2015 (edited) This is looking great, and I've never seen road wheels attached with metal screws like this - interesting! Just one detail I noticed, it looks the teeth on the drive sprockets are completely worn to a metallic colour? Here's a close up of the Bovington Tiger, might give better idea how they wear, click the pic for larger view: regards, Jack Thank you Jack. Yes I was a bit surprised by the screws but it seems to work well. And thank you for the picture. I'll take look a to see what I can do to modify the paintwork on the sprockets.great workThank you Mick.I wish weekends were longer! Kind regards, Stix Edited February 15, 2015 by PlaStix
wimbledon99 Posted February 16, 2015 Posted February 16, 2015 Another cracking build in the making Stix 1
PlaStix Posted February 16, 2015 Author Posted February 16, 2015 (edited) Thank you for your kind comment wimbledon. I have to say that, so far, I am thoroughly enjoying this build. I am looking forward to next weekend - but it's only Monday morning and I'm on the bus on the way to work! :-( Kind regards, Stix Edited February 16, 2015 by PlaStix
PlaStix Posted February 16, 2015 Author Posted February 16, 2015 Time to start chipping the zimmerit. Yes I was wondering about that - any suggestions about how to do it without wrecking the whole thing will be gratefully received!
Wolfpack Posted February 16, 2015 Posted February 16, 2015 (edited) If you have dremmel or something of that ilk, gentle application of a burr bit would work. Failing that a flat chisel blade in your knife. W Edited February 16, 2015 by Wolfpack 1
PlaStix Posted February 16, 2015 Author Posted February 16, 2015 Unfortunately I haven't got a Dremmel (or similar) or even a flat chisel blade. Might have to get out and purchase a blade. Can't justify the cost of a Dremmel!
MADMUSKY Posted February 16, 2015 Posted February 16, 2015 Unfortunately I haven't got a Dremmel (or similar) or even a flat chisel blade. Might have to get out and purchase a blade. Can't justify the cost of a Dremmel! Looking good so far, a Dremmel will be a great investment don't know how I coped without mine!!! Darren 1
PlaStix Posted February 16, 2015 Author Posted February 16, 2015 Looking good so far, a Dremmel will be a great investment don't know how I coped without mine!!! Darren Hi Darren. Thank you for your comments. I've just had a quick look on Amazon. I could get a basic one with 15 tools for £38.24 - do you reckon they'd be suitable tools for what I need? Never even thought about getting one before.Kind regards, Stix
wimbledon99 Posted February 16, 2015 Posted February 16, 2015 Ditto re. the Dremel. I owned a Dremel Stylus for 7 years (used it all the time on my RC models). When the battery needed replacing recently I paid for the work to be carried out but there was an issue with the replacement battery. After 3 attempts at resolving the issue they replaced the Stylus with the new Dremel Micro as the Stylus isn't available any more. That's how good their Customer Service is 1
Wolfpack Posted February 16, 2015 Posted February 16, 2015 If you're definately going down the Dremmel route, look for one with variable speed control. Too fast and th plastic melts away before your eyes. W 1
PlaStix Posted February 17, 2015 Author Posted February 17, 2015 Ditto re. the Dremel. I owned a Dremel Stylus for 7 years (used it all the time on my RC models). When the battery needed replacing recently I paid for the work to be carried out but there was an issue with the replacement battery. After 3 attempts at resolving the issue they replaced the Stylus with the new Dremel Micro as the Stylus isn't available any more. That's how good their Customer Service is Thank you for the information. A Dremel Micro seems to start at over £100 so it's going to be while before I can get one. Sounds like I do need one of these though! If you're definately going down the Dremmel route, look for one with variable speed control. Too fast and th plastic melts away before your eyes. W Having had the information from wimbledon and yourself it does seem like a Dremel would be a good idea - but I don't have that kind of dosh at the moment. I'll have an experiment on the Tiger at the weekend to see if I can clear some small areas of Zimmeriit. Having looked at some photos of actual damaged areas on the real thing I might have a couple of ideas.Thank you both again. Kind regards, Stix
Wolfpack Posted February 17, 2015 Posted February 17, 2015 You could get one of those cheapo drills and run it off a railway transformer. That'll give you infinite speed control. W 1
PlaStix Posted February 18, 2015 Author Posted February 18, 2015 Cheers Wolfpack - I will investigate. I have a railway transformer or two.
PlaStix Posted February 22, 2015 Author Posted February 22, 2015 (edited) Not had a lot of time on this today - in fact a lot less than I anticipated. It's my own fault - I decided to spend more time getting my two Spitfires closer to the finish line. With the Tiger I thought I ought to start work on the damaged Zimmeriit. I decided to do a test section on the back where it could be out of the way if I made a complete hash of it: To do this I just used a craft knife and wet'n'dry paper. I have some photos of damaged Zimmeriit to base this on. I thought this looked okay when compared to the photos so I tried a few sections on the front: At this point I have a couple of questions for the tank experts: First off - do these look okay or am I wasting my time? Secondly, if they are okay, what colour should the areas be where the Zimmeriit has been removed? I've only got B&W images of actual Zimmeriit damage and the photos of tank kits with this damage have a wide variety of colours painted on ranging from steel through to reds and yellows. Thank you in advance for any help offered. Kind regards, Stix Edited February 22, 2015 by PlaStix 8
JackG Posted February 22, 2015 Posted February 22, 2015 For chipped zimm, you have a variety of choices on what colour to place for the exposed surface - bare metal, primer, or the first layer of zimmerit (grey colour). It all depends on what caused it, that is, what degree of force that knocked it off. The easiest is to put it dark yellow and explain it away that the crew repainted the exposed patch. regards, Jack 1
PlaStix Posted February 22, 2015 Author Posted February 22, 2015 For chipped zimm, you have a variety of choices on what colour to place for the exposed surface - bare metal, primer, or the first layer of zimmerit (grey colour). It all depends on what caused it, that is, what degree of force that knocked it off. The easiest is to put it dark yellow and explain it away that the crew repainted the exposed patch. regards, Jack Thank you for the information Jack.Kind regards, Stix
Wolfpack Posted February 22, 2015 Posted February 22, 2015 In my expert professional opinion, that looks cock on. well done that man. W 1
PlaStix Posted February 23, 2015 Author Posted February 23, 2015 Thank you Wolfpack. More next weekend then!!! Can't wait!
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