Jump to content

Lancia Delta Integrale, Hasegawa, 1/24


Recommended Posts

...this was supposed to be a quicky! Very nice Hasegawa curbside kit of a car I nearly bought back when I was 25. The complete lack of service history, registration document and cracked windscreen put me off.... I don't know why ;-P. But I wish I had (it was only £2500 in 1990...) if it was throwaway money!

Interior is simple, and easy...
chairs-head-on.jpg
chairs.jpg
Primer, German Grey, then drybrushed with Citadel Shadow Gray and Necronomicon Grey.
Neat dashboard with a bit of detail painting:
dashboard.jpg
cabin-1.jpg
cabin2.jpg
Nice, a bit simplified, chassis goes together well with basic painting...
chassis.jpg
engine.jpg
now this to deal with:
body-with-orange.jpg
The clear coat has leached the red dye out of the plastic, through the primer and yellow base coat,. So I have to see whether isopropyl alcohol will fetch the clear-coat and base yellow coat off. I'm reliably assured that it will, so we'll see what happens next week while I soak the plastic in IPA for several days...
Annoyingly, I think this would have been finished in a weekend if it hadn't been for the body screw-up!
Anyway, good to have a "quicky" there or thereabouts...
bestest,
M.
  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

How the body has gone is quite funny it looks as though is all happened where the paint would be at its thickest, maybe the clear i when built up is a bit too hot which has led to it pulling the plastic colour through somehow

Shaun

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't know what causes that problem with the dye coming out of the plastic, I had the same issue with a Mitsubishi Lancer Evo which was red plastic and I sprayed white. Well you can imagine the whole thing turned pink..!!

Nice work on the interior, it looks really good so far :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ta, chaps! Paint? What paint...? ;-P

belts.jpg
Finishing touch for the cabin: seat belts. The belts themselves are etched brass, and nicely textured, though you can't see it. The idea is that they are "sprung" slightly outwards, and will slide up the inside B pillar and look as if they are attached as the body goes on over the chassis. That's the plan, anyway...
stripper.jpg
...and I think we can safely conclude that IPA does indeed strip Zero 2K clear and base coat! It's tenaciously hanging on in the seams where the coloured clearcoat gathered and is thicker, but I hope that if this is where we are after 24 hours, by Thursday evening when I'm back home it will have even stripped those last corners. It doesn't seem to be having any effect on the Tamiya Fine Surface Primer, mind, so my sealer may have to go on top of that!
bestest,
M.
  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

chassis-underside.jpg

front-end.jpg
back-end.jpg
Well, that's the running gear all done. Not so many parts, but I think it does the job -- it certainly looks like the pictures of the "ordinary" Integrales I've found, if not the "550BHP Sprint car" which has been more than a bit "fettled..."
chassis-built-2.jpg
chassis-built.jpg
I think this is about as far as this goes until the body is fully cooked, sealed, primed, base coated and clear coated... again ;-P
bestest,
M.
  • Like 5
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes, the alcohol is the best method for stripping the Zero bases and the 2k clear. Brake fluid is a poor substitute and leaves the plastic brittle. It also makes the dye bleed even worse. The alcohol won't strip the Tamiya primer, not properly anyway, which is actually a good thing. Just sand it back gently and apply your sealer straight over the top of it and it will be fine. Look forward to seeing the new paint work, hopefully without that nasty red bleed through. Why don't manufacturers simply mould all body parts in white..?? Would save a whole lot of problems with colour bleed :)

Edited by Steve Noble
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Very neat and tidy work, I love the velour effect on the seats, ( I presume thats what its supposed to be ! ). has put me off painting anything yellow, hope you can put it right.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks, all... This has taken a while, but now I'm back where I started!

6-frames-body.jpg
Stripped, sanded, coated with sealer (the greeny-yellow stuff), primed again in white, shut lines washed in black with Citadel wash, and finally repainted in the Zero yellow base coat. It is rougher than it would have been if I'd got it right first time, here and there, but it's a balancing act between getting it completely smooth and sanding away the surface detail you want in some places...
shiny-yellow-2.jpg
shiny-yellow.jpg
...and just in case anyone was wondering why I like the Zero 2K system, despite the fact that it's poisonous and a real faff to clean up after, this is it. I've done no polishing at all on the roof or bonnet here. Not even had to take out the odd dust mark... Bearing in mind that there's satin black trim to go all over the place, but especially around the windows, I'm pretty happy how this has turned out straight out of the spray booth. There's no red bleed anywhere, except for one small and inexplicable circular spot on the rear bumper...
bestest,
M.
  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nice work and a good save. I'm glad there was no bleed this time and all went well. I agree you about the 2K clear. It is amazing stuff. I just wish there were no health risks with it. Don't get me wrong, I take all the necessary precautions of gloves, goggles, mask and extraction booth, but I still sometimes wonder if it's enough..?? Apart from an air fed mask there's nothing more that can be done regards it's safe spraying.

Bet you had fun painting that red inset on the grille..?? I gave up with mine and used the Studio 27 grille upgrade (sadly no longer available)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So, that was one of the more nerve-wracking episodes of putting the body on the chassis. Talk about "tight fit"...

body-on-1.jpg
body-on-2.jpg
body-on-3.jpg
body-on-4.jpg
Now all I have to do is figure out how to dislodge the small flakes of yellow paint that have pinged off the body or chassis and static-electricity-ed themselves to the windscreen and side windows. I need a feather!
bestest,
M
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Very nice. I built one of these many years ago, but in red. Doesn't look as good as this one though. Always liked the Deltas, used to have a HF Martini (far too) many years ago. Loved it, it's probably the only car I regretted swapping.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks, chaps... I'm calling this done now. Better pictures to follow when I can break out the "studio" (and find a feather to clean the inside of the windscreen!)

complete-on-bench-1.jpg
complete-on-bench-2.jpg
complete-on-bench-3.jpg
complete-on-bench-4.jpg
What a great little kit, even if I could have done without the red plastic bodyshell!
bestest,
M.
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...