JackG Posted January 25, 2015 Posted January 25, 2015 (edited) Been saving up details on this for over a year, so good time to pull the trigger. Pictured in the middle row are optional LionRoar side skirts, Aber PE details, Jordi turned metal barrel, two brands of German 2 meter aerials, PE gun cleaning rods, and two resin crew figures wearing the special reed green panzer uniforms. Top left isTristar's boxing of early/mid panzer IV gear. Still have to look through that, but know the early Jagdpanzers had rubber return rollers earlier style road wheel hubs, which are not the type provided in the Dragon kit. Not pictured is some resin zimmerit from ATAK - not that there would be room for it in the photo, had to prop up camera on a tripod. Also hope to acquire some individual track links, but will wait for that in hopes the Canadian dollar will return to a more respectable exchange rate. regards, Jack Edited March 28, 2015 by JackG 1
smuts Posted January 25, 2015 Posted January 25, 2015 Bloody ell ......this will be impressive Andy. 1
D1fuN0 Posted January 26, 2015 Posted January 26, 2015 Okaaaaaaaay. Jack, are you SURE you have enough AM stuff, Im sure you could squeeze an engine and interior in there as well Steve 1
JackG Posted January 26, 2015 Author Posted January 26, 2015 Andy, Steve, Mick, thanks lads. I'm already thinking to leave out the PE side skirts. Early Normandy photos seem to show none were worn, but they did have the rails installed to mount them. regards, Jack
Peter Lloyd Posted January 27, 2015 Posted January 27, 2015 Don't think they would have lasted long in the hedgerows. An excellent choice of subject. 1
PlaStix Posted January 27, 2015 Posted January 27, 2015 Having followed your excellent D-Day tank build I'm really looking forward to watching what you do with this one! 1
AndyC Posted January 30, 2015 Posted January 30, 2015 Jeez that is some beast! Can never have enough AM! 1
JOCKNEY Posted January 30, 2015 Posted January 30, 2015 Hi Jack Do you still need the original kit, or is it surplus after all the AM stuff is fitted ? Good luck with this one. Cheers Pat 2
JackG Posted February 1, 2015 Author Posted February 1, 2015 (edited) Cheers Peter, PlaStix and Andy - thanks for dropping in. Hi JackDo you still need the original kit, or is it surplus after all the AM stuff is fitted ?Good luck with this one.Cheers Pat I hear ya, with all the extras the cost of the kit has more than doubled and you'd think there would be enough for two complete builds, but sadly, that is not the case. Dont forget the bushes.! W Ah yes, hiding behind the shrubbery. Not sure I can make my own, and really don't want to pour more $$ into this one. Will see how it goes, if not might have to opt for a vehicle fresh off the train. ------------------------------------- Anyhow, I've thrown a few parts together already, while continuing some research on the side. Looks like I'll be using the kit's road wheels as the ones in the Tristar suspension set are of the narrower early type. Will post a few photos soon. regards, Jack Edited February 1, 2015 by JackG
JackG Posted February 1, 2015 Author Posted February 1, 2015 (edited) Start off with a post of the resin zimmerit, minus the right hull section already attached. Atak also provides some resin pieces cast with zim surfaces, and provide a choice for the front glacis. You can choose to do numerous individual pieces, or just use the all in one front hull structure, which I've already done as seen in the second photo. A lot less work I think, just some pinholes to fill and maybe some filler on the sides. Going the other route would require removal of the pistol ports (the pointy discs on either side of the main gun) and that is some pretty thick plastic, but suppose a dremel tool would make quick work of it. Some hull details on the right side. To attach the zim, a couple pieces of tape acts as hinge for proper placement. Acrylic Future was brushed on both surfaces and then mated together. After about an hour or so, superglue was spread around the outer edges for more permanent setting. regards, Jack Edited February 1, 2015 by JackG 4
PlaStix Posted February 1, 2015 Posted February 1, 2015 Hi Jack. Nice start. That Zimmerit looks like it must be fun to cut out!
Wolfpack Posted February 1, 2015 Posted February 1, 2015 I used Atak Zimmerit on a Jagdpanther. It's dead easy to cut out as it's wafer thin. I highly reccommend it, especially for that 'orrible Pather lattice style. W 2
JackG Posted February 2, 2015 Author Posted February 2, 2015 Yes, as Wolfpack attests, the resin is literally paper thin surrounding the individual zimm pieces. Instructions have you sand the backside to rough up the surface for better adhesion. If you take enough off, you can actually snap some sections apart, resulting in even less cutting. On another note, the Tristar wheel set needs some correction to the assembly instructions (left and right pieces got mixed up). Was able to find this somewhat in time. Four pieces labeled s1-25 were already glued, but not too much problem popping them off. regards, Jack 1
SleeperService Posted February 5, 2015 Posted February 5, 2015 I don't know if they're available in Canada but I've had great success with Atak zimmerit attached with a Prit Stick, Graham at Notts MAFVA has been doing it for years and none has ever come off. Put the glue on the zimmerit, attach to the model and wait a minute or two, then peel it back and reattach it. (This makes sure the glue film is even). The paint will then seal the edges for posterity. Good start and a great subject. I intend to do a 48th one sometime. 1
JackG Posted February 6, 2015 Author Posted February 6, 2015 SleeperService - thanks,and thank you for introducing a new technique for attaching resin zimmerit. I'm familiar with regular glue sticks for paper and other such porous surfaces, but not familiar with Prit Stick brand in these parts. After looking it up, I see they have several formulas to choose from, so which do you suggest? Also, how tacky is it when peeling back after a few minutes? My fear here is areas with very narrow sections of the zimm breaking. -------------------------------- For the rear lower hull, the zimmerit is in three small sections. With all kinds of raised detail surrounding it's placement, there really is no room for it to swim around in, so I just used gel super glue directly on the model surface. I've also scratch built a towing pin which also involved drilling a hole in said location. regards, Jack 2
SleeperService Posted February 6, 2015 Posted February 6, 2015 Hi Jack I use a low strength one for small pieces and a stronger one for larger. The test is to stick a piece down and make sure it can't be slid by moderate finger pressure. For very thin sections I put masking tape over the top first to avoid the breakage you are rightly concerned about. Meanwhile I'm going to be experimenting with future to stick foil on my Lightning model!
JackG Posted February 6, 2015 Author Posted February 6, 2015 Hi Jack I use a low strength one for small pieces and a stronger one for larger. The test is to stick a piece down and make sure it can't be slid by moderate finger pressure. For very thin sections I put masking tape over the top first to avoid the breakage you are rightly concerned about. Meanwhile I'm going to be experimenting with future to stick foil on my Lightning model! Ok, but it must be one of the multi-purpose types that also adheres to plastic?? About the acrylic Future, it has no staying power. I think most of it's strength derives from the vacuum formed from the air eliminated between the two surfaces. Once dry, it 's very easily lifted with the edge of a blade. regards, Jack
JackG Posted February 9, 2015 Author Posted February 9, 2015 Two weekends into this project, and the lower hull is still not quite done. Those of you familiar with the panzer IV chassis will notice the road wheels look odd here. Still need to add the rubber portions, but these will be kept separate for painting purposes. These, along with the drive sprockets and idler wheels will be left unattached for the same purpose. I had intended to use Dragon's road wheels, but they sort of float on the Tristar axles. The rubber on both appear to be the same width, but from the face on view, Tristar's looks to have less rubber - perhaps explained away as road wear? Again, they appear virtually the same height/size, but the location of recessed detail on the outer rims is located differently between the two. This just adds to the illusion, and makes it appear Dragon has a lot more rubber height than actual. regards, Jack 1
Wolfpack Posted February 10, 2015 Posted February 10, 2015 If memory serves, the front set of roadwheels were solid steel on the L/70 variant, so theres no reason you couldn't fit them here, perhaps the odd one or two as replacements after damage. I fixed my zimmerit with good old superglue. teaches care in modelling that's for sure. W
JackG Posted February 10, 2015 Author Posted February 10, 2015 Cheers Wolfpack, The L/48 did not appear to have the same nose heavy problems as the L/70, otherwise the longer gun version would already been equipped with steel road wheels when they began rolling out of the factories in August '44. So this means steel wheels became available later (likely 9.44), by which time Lehr was no longer a fighting force, being ordered for rest and refit on August 5th. regards, Jack . 1
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