nimrod54 Posted January 24, 2015 Share Posted January 24, 2015 This is my first entry for my very first Britmodeller AFV build which will be built OOB with maybe some scratch refinements. As I have said in the build up I have only ever built two AFV's and one of these (1/76 Airfix King Tiger) is languishing in it's box awaiting completion, when I can decide how best to tackle the vinyl tracks. Here are the box and sprue shots This is the only reference I have so I am looking for any advice from the expert Russian heavy tank builders out there amongst you, along with any hints and tips that I can try plus anything else I can find on t'internet. I'll see how I get on with this before deciding on the second build I would like to do for this GB. Just as an aside and to go off topic a little, here are a few photos of my only completed tank build to date - the Revell 1/72 T-72 in DDR colours fresh off the parade ground. Thanks for looking 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cookenbacher Posted January 26, 2015 Share Posted January 26, 2015 John, this will be my window into the world of tanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nimrod54 Posted January 26, 2015 Author Share Posted January 26, 2015 John, this will be my window into the world of tanks. Mine too Cookie. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SleeperService Posted February 2, 2015 Share Posted February 2, 2015 You couldn't pick a better place to start! I've just completed my first flying machine in many years and had help from many people so it will be nice to reciprocate. Good choice of kit and it you ever find a solution to the vinyl tracks you'll be up for a Nobel Prize. It may be worth talking to Matador Models or the like to see if anybody does resin link and length replacements. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nimrod54 Posted February 2, 2015 Author Share Posted February 2, 2015 I am trying to run this build alongside the Hobby Boss KV-1 that I am making for this group build. So yesterday I made a start on getting the hull together. The first job was to add the weights to the base. Then it was on with the front and rear end as well as the side plates. Then finally it was on with, what I am calling, the suspension arms but if that isn't correct please let me know - it would be good to try and get some of the terminology right because I doubt if anything else will be. That's it for this update, thanks for looking. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SleeperService Posted February 2, 2015 Share Posted February 2, 2015 You're right they are suspension arms. I would suggest only using two weights diagonal to each other as some have found the plastic a little brittle and liable to give over time. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nimrod54 Posted February 2, 2015 Author Share Posted February 2, 2015 You're right they are suspension arms. I would suggest only using two weights diagonal to each other as some have found the plastic a little brittle and liable to give over time. Thanks for that, I'll get two of them out before doing anything else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolfpack Posted February 2, 2015 Share Posted February 2, 2015 If you don't fancy removing the weights, add some plastic card or sprue strengtheners inside the hull. An easy tip is to use an old short bristle paint brush ans stipple liquid poly on the cast surfaces, working it with the brush until the surface is rough. Looks great under paint. W 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nimrod54 Posted February 4, 2015 Author Share Posted February 4, 2015 If you don't fancy removing the weights, add some plastic card or sprue strengtheners inside the hull. An easy tip is to use an old short bristle paint brush ans stipple liquid poly on the cast surfaces, working it with the brush until the surface is rough. Looks great under paint. W Thanks for the tips Wolfpack the sprue and plasticard strengthers were a good idea, but I had removed the weights before I saw your post. I will try the liquid poly though, it could be useful in areas that joins across a welded seam. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nimrod54 Posted February 4, 2015 Author Share Posted February 4, 2015 Made some steady progress with this, I have followed SleeperService's advice and removed two of the weights. All the wheels have been assembled (a lot of wheels) and are ready to be painted. I have added hatches and those items that I feel would be better painted before adding to the model or that would not have survived clumsy handling. The turret has been assembled, again leaving off things like hatch covers etc that would probably end up being knocked off. I just have to tidy one or two bits up before I order some paint, then I can paint the lower hull and wheels before assembling them. A few photos of progress so far. Finally a shot that none of us can resist - a look at it together. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cookenbacher Posted February 4, 2015 Share Posted February 4, 2015 I just saw your completed CF-18 John, and figured that this would be next, and you've already made so much progress! Phew, tanks have a lot of parts. It's looking great so far. I'm just watching and learning. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nimrod54 Posted February 4, 2015 Author Share Posted February 4, 2015 I just saw your completed CF-18 John, and figured that this would be next, and you've already made so much progress! Phew, tanks have a lot of parts. It's looking great so far. I'm just watching and learning. Your not kidding bud, especially when the wheels come in two halves and you have two kits to do. You can have ten guess's as to which idiot decided to do both builds for this. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SleeperService Posted February 5, 2015 Share Posted February 5, 2015 Top Tip from Wolfpack to get a good texture. This kit will really benefit from it. You're working fast and well, Good Job Sir! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PlaStix Posted February 6, 2015 Share Posted February 6, 2015 Good to see another 1/48 kit underway. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nimrod54 Posted February 6, 2015 Author Share Posted February 6, 2015 Good to see another 1/48 kit underway. Thanks Stix, I am always amazed at how quick armour kits go together. I guess most of the skill with these models lies in the detailing and painting, as long as I can end up with a fair representation when it is finished then I will be more than happy. I've picked up a few painting and weathering tips from your builds, so I hope to try and apply the techniques on my models. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nimrod54 Posted February 11, 2015 Author Share Posted February 11, 2015 So, after all the tank wheel assembly and the need to satisfy a craving to build summat wi' wings on again (see link) it was back to this build. I added a few details to the turret last night and then blew a primer coat of Citadel Chaos Black from a rattle can over the main parts today. Next, after a little touch up job at the front is to get some colour on it, I have read that Tamiya's JA Green is a good colour for this but I think it looks a bit dark. Does anyone know of a better match/manufacturer? Thanks for looking in. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PlaStix Posted February 12, 2015 Share Posted February 12, 2015 I'm afraid I can't hep with the paint but I have to say that is looking pretty mean in black! The detailing on that 1/48 kit is pretty amazing! Very nice! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robw_uk Posted February 12, 2015 Share Posted February 12, 2015 like the progress... you just going green on this one, or perhaps a nice weathered winter scheme? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
noeyedears Posted February 12, 2015 Share Posted February 12, 2015 Gotta ask, what purpose do the weights fulfill? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troy Smith Posted February 13, 2015 Share Posted February 13, 2015 I have read that Tamiya's JA Green is a good colour for this but I think it looks a bit dark. Does anyone know of a better match/manufacturer? JA Green is way too dark. Soviet tanks were painted 4BO green. http://www.4bogreen.com/colors Akan does various paints of 4BO. here http://www.master194.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=82364&start=175 are various types of AKAN Soviet paint this a Soviet steel helmet in 4BO green a member here sent me a sample 'chip' of some AKAN 4BO , the helmet gives a good idea. also http://www.matadormodels.co.uk/tank_museum/xcamo_ww2ussr.htm I'd ignore the Pilawskii stuff though. 4BO – Dark Green, replacing what is believed to be the near identical 3B in about 1938. Chip in official records stated in Kolomiets and Morschanski to match FS595b 34102. This is a rich dark green with some olive to it. It’s duller and a little darker than matt wartime British G3 and more grey than their SCC15, although about the same tone. George Hogg has suggested Humbrol 117, and Mike Starmer has this as a mid point, adding 150 to lighten and 116 to darken. The light extreme would be c. 4x117:3x150, the dark 3x117 to 2x116 Given Russian paint problems, and the whole dilution process used (50% volume of a thinner) its probably not wise to be over pedantic, but I think any attempt to model a Soviet tank must work around some variant of this The official formula for this green actually seems to give a lighter colour. This is to an “Instruction on painting of 1941”. This document gives the formula for a green described as 4BO. The transcription is available at http://www.dol.ru/users/hotdog/4bo.htm The green is based on yellow ochre (40-60%), Zinc Chromate (15-20%), white (10-20% and ultramarine (8-13%). The site notes that attempts to reconstruct it have resulted in greens approximating FS595a 34226 and 258. Both these are fairly light greens. The original document apparently states that the finish should be smooth. Clearly there is a difference between the records chip and what you get if you use the official formula. That is assuming that the values for the paints used in attempts to reconstruct 4BO are accurate. I’m struck by the fact that all extant chips are significantly darker than the attempts to reconstruct the colour, and frankly in lieu of other evidence I prefer to trust the chips the humbrol match help? Mike Starmer is a highly respected authority on colour. the helmet above looks like what the paint formula mixes mentioned would give, rather than the darker tones mentioned if that helps? This should give an idea of he background to the colour, sorry if it seems a bit much, as with much colour information, it may seem a bit daunting but t's only been fairly recently that proper information on Soviet colours has become available. Gotta ask, what purpose do the weights fulfill? in short, none. When Tamiya started doing 1/48th armour, they did die cast metal hulls 'for realistic weight' It was not popular with modellers, now they do plastic hulls with weights to be added. HTH T 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robw_uk Posted February 13, 2015 Share Posted February 13, 2015 must say that green sounds easier than the green for 1940 British tanks!!! I did various searches came up with 20 different answers!!! anyway good luck with the painting - look forward to seeing the results 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolfpack Posted February 13, 2015 Share Posted February 13, 2015 With a black undercoat, any green will look dark. Careful spraying will highlight and shadow various parts. W 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nimrod54 Posted February 13, 2015 Author Share Posted February 13, 2015 I'm afraid I can't hep with the paint but I have to say that is looking pretty mean in black! The detailing on that 1/48 kit is pretty amazing! Very nice! Thanks Stix, it does look good in black but it's not very stealthy . like the progress... you just going green on this one, or perhaps a nice weathered winter scheme? Rob, for this build just going to be OOB hence it will be plain old green with Berlin campaign markings in white. Gotta ask, what purpose do the weights fulfill? I think your username says it all, like you I've got no idea. With a black undercoat, any green will look dark. Careful spraying will highlight and shadow various parts. W Thanks Wolfpack. Because this is my first attempt at a serious build this is always going to be a bit of an experiment for me. I might make a complete pigs ear of things we'll just see how it goes. and finally Troy Many thanks for your very comprehensive response to my colour question, the links in particular are going to be very useful. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troy Smith Posted February 13, 2015 Share Posted February 13, 2015 must say that green sounds easier than the green for 1940 British tanks!!! I did various searches came up with 20 different answers!!! anyway good luck with the painting - look forward to seeing the results Rob here's your best bet http://www.mafva.net/other%20pages/starmer%20camo.htm 1940 tank, easy, well, easyish.... 1939-41 – Bold horizontal/ diagonal patterns of two greens following M.T.P. 20 of June 1939. The most usual colours were a basic of Khaki Green No. 3 and Dark Green No.4. Plain G3 was an occasional alternative. Infantry tanks Matilda I & II appear quite dark in tone, possibly Khaki Green No. 3 and Deep Bronze Green No. 24 in some cases. mixes on linked page. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SleeperService Posted February 16, 2015 Share Posted February 16, 2015 Mike Starmer does some very good guides to British & Commonwealth vehicle colours complete with colour matches. They are extremely good value IMHO. The weights are there to give the model some weight to keep the die cast ready built collectors happy. They're a lot better than the metal tubs they started the range with. The other nod to that market is the cap and spacer to enable the model to be fixed to a display base. Captive nut in the hull and a screw up through the hull floor. All very toyish IMHO. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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