Jump to content

Sikorsky S-61A Royal Danish Air Force Fujimi 1/72


Recommended Posts

Looks like I chose to do a version which do not have the later applied sound insulation... Meaning some extra work for me since I now need to do a complete internal structure :hmmm::pipe: Unfortunately I haven't been able to locate any photos of that type interior used from 1965-? found in Danish S-61A-1... I assume that it will be safe to use pictures taken from US SH-3's as reference for this task.like these!

http://lh3.ggpht.com/-qVSYGnmdvIE/UA149PwFKSI/AAAAAAAAEq4/fPCRXRU549M/IMG_5945%25255B3%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800

https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2688/4104119237_6ebfaf1b7c_b.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looks like I chose to do a version which do not have the later applied sound insulation... Meaning some extra work for me since I now need to do a complete internal structure :hmmm::pipe: Unfortunately I haven't been able to locate any photos of that type interior used from 1965-? found in Danish S-61A-1... I assume that it will be safe to use pictures taken from US SH-3's as reference for this task.like these!

http://lh3.ggpht.com/-qVSYGnmdvIE/UA149PwFKSI/AAAAAAAAEq4/fPCRXRU549M/IMG_5945%25255B3%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800

https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2688/4104119237_6ebfaf1b7c_b.jpg

All the basic internal across all seakings should be very similar, the basic framing will be the same along with the stringers inbetween the frames. I would have thought the layout of the pipelines would be more or less the same as well. The wiring would be the main thing that changes although in this scale I dont think anyone will be able to tell what is right or wrong. Use the rivet lines on the outside (if there are any!) as guidance for the frame layout.

Hope this helps

Bob

Link to comment
Share on other sites

449_31_01_15_9_13_37_0.jpg

449_31_01_15_9_13_37_1.jpg

449_31_01_15_9_13_38_2.jpg

449_31_01_15_9_13_38_3.jpg

Okay had a look of my reference drawings and started to mark up for the extra windows the Danish bird have. Then I noticed something odd, why haven't Fujimi made the cabin floor in entire length of fuselage? weird well I need to do a new floor anyway and remove all sort of blimps, blobs and stuff molded inside to have a nice even surface to build up the structural bits on.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yep Colin,

But no matter how you'll turn it, A new floor had to be made anyhow after I removes all unwanted bits from the inside of the fuselage halves. Another question I'm still debating with my self is how to build the structural bits and what material to use for it. I have some heavy aluminum foil. been thinking about this for the stringers and using 0,25mm plastic card for the spars. Haven't decided yet.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yep Colin,

But no matter how you'll turn it, A new floor had to be made anyhow after I removes all unwanted bits from the inside of the fuselage halves. Another question I'm still debating with my self is how to build the structural bits and what material to use for it. I have some heavy aluminum foil. been thinking about this for the stringers and using 0,25mm plastic card for the spars. Haven't decided yet.

I would go with styrene strips for the structure, commonality of materials. If you have access to a guillotine, you can cut lots of strips of varying widths and thickness quite easily.

Colin

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am doing a stripped out seaking slowtime on this WIP

http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234972476-seaking-172-deconstructed/?hl=seaking

I started off with thin plastic rod and experimented around a bit. The best way I could come up with was to Scribe two deep lines above and below the windows all the way along. I used thin strip to represent the main longitudinal frames and I was able to drill some lightening holes where the windows sit. If you get the scribing right then the strip will sit in there nicely. Post 18 on the above link is from where i've started doing it that way. I rushed the port side and my scribing was pants.I took my time on the other side and you can see the way I am going. I have since finished to so will post a pic later. It was then a case of filling in the gaps with stretched sprue. Pain about that floor though!

Cheer snow

Bob

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I might go for plastic for the entire cabin.... Maybe! Reason why I'm still considering using heavy aluminum foil is to keep the stringers as thin as possible. My plan is cut the foil in thin strips and bend it into a angle profile. Then glue it in the cabin. I'll run a limited test to see if its feasible.

Been filling and sanding most afternoon to remove all the excess humps, Bumps and ejector pin marks. Decided to go all in and opened the forward port door/hatch.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You're making me look bad :P

K

:bleh::P:tease:

http://lh3.ggpht.com/-qVSYGnmdvIE/UA149PwFKSI/AAAAAAAAEq4/fPCRXRU549M/IMG_5945%25255B3%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4015/4605471290_b9af529ed7_z.jpg

http://www.ninfinger.org/models/vault2013/USS%20Hornet%20UH-3H%20%20Seaking%20%28Interiors%20LH%20Side%29/Interior%208.jpg

Have not been the most productive evening. Only managed to make a new floor. And only just started to draw inside the fuselage where ribs and stringers should be located, with a very sharp pencil. will post pictures when done.

I have been playing with a idea to make a complete celling inside. Its a fairly large sliding hatch/door to look inside of when left open

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nicely done!! The openings are so neat and clean! What did you use - a scalpel?

The windows were drilled in each corner, the four holes were then connected with a small saw and then filed to final shape with needle files. the crew door was opened with my scribing tool, have glued a 0,25x1,00mm strip along the edges to compensate for the missing material removed with scribing tool.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The windows were drilled in each corner, the four holes were then connected with a small saw and then filed to final shape with needle files. the crew door was opened with my scribing tool, have glued a 0,25x1,00mm strip along the edges to compensate for the missing material removed with scribing tool.

I'm impressed! :)

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

×
×
  • Create New...