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Posted

Having recently finished a TSR2 and now getting close to the same problem with an Airfix Lightning F2, what do you guys use to support tailplanes that have a wobbly fix while the cement sets?

I'm looking for something other than pots, bits of sprue etc and already have my trusted Berna clamps which are good, but don't help measure the angle of the dangle...

Suggestions?

Posted

Blu-tak can be useful as long as the tail planes aren't too heavy :)

  • Like 3
Posted

HI, so- do you want something you can set to a certain height - to keep the "dangle angle" the same on both sides?

Jonners

I think, ideally, I'd like something that clips / clamps to the fin and has clamps for the tailplanes that allow the angle to be adjusted or, ideally, set from some sort of angle gauge. That way I won't need to make sure that the fuselage is straight... at the moment my method is:

1. Support the fuselage in an upright position with the fin 90 degrees (ish) to the table

2. Find two things that will support each tailplane at what seems to be the right angle (often not 90 degrees from fin)

3. Insert one side of the tailplane and cement

4. Knock the fuselage off true, curse

5. Re-support the fuselage

6. Support one tailplane a re-position

7. Cement second tailplane, insert into fuselage, repeat step 4

and on and on. I also get fed up with diving to the floor, trying to get level with the model to check the angle, getting up and knocking the table.

I would pay good(ish) money for something that retains my sanity!

Blu-tak can be useful as long as the tail planes aren't too heavy :)

Good idea Mike but this doesn't help set the angle.

Posted

Blu-tak can be useful as long as the tail planes aren't too heavy :)

Same method I use. Push Blu Tak (other Taks are available) against fin or fuselage depending on where the tailplanes are. Stick your tailplanes in and then push the Tak against the fin/ fuselage until desired angle of tplane obtained. Keep fiddling and do both at the same time to achieve conformity. This is my method

  • Like 1
Posted

I used the plastercene route years ago. I could (or anything really) set the height of the tips for correct angle by Mk 1 eye ball or rule on its end. Blutaks the same.

Posted

The problem I've found with blutack or plasticene is that the part can move a litl;e sometimes whilst the glue sets, especially if the fit isn't great (I have a Hunter with dihederal on the tailplane as a result!)

  • Like 1
Posted

One of the local IPMS members uses Lego blocks to make assembly jigs to hold parts in the proper orientation. Here's an article by someone else on the use of Legos:

http://www.clubhyper.com/reference/biplanejigcb_1.htm

Looks like a good idea. My kids are now in their late 20s; where the heck did we put their lego?

Paul at Little Cars had some of these http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/33348-jh-models-biplane-monoplane-jigs/?p=357169 but they (and other UK suppliers) seem to be out of stock. If Paul picks this up perhaps he'll advise, otherwise I'm off to hunt the Lego.

Posted

Found the Lego!

88F9658E-75C9-4B11-B1FC-09D642E502A7_zps

and knocked this up...

873FCF96-7C3F-405D-AEAC-4BA434E3BC15_zps

Like the eyes, making sure things are level. I'm almost happy for you guys to get your T squares out on this...

7D973AA5-D241-45F8-9689-AE8363D9A51A_zps

Note how the 'flex' in the blocks lets you adjust with quite fine tolerances and they're stiff enough to stay put.

Thanks 'Space Ranger' - sorted now and really happy this will cope with different sizes, angles, dihedrals (with Bluetak) etc etc. Chuffed.

  • Like 2

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