Mike Posted January 18, 2015 Author Share Posted January 18, 2015 I was comparing it with Jonners' work, and his was recessed within the wing, showing the main spar coming through the bay Looking at this pic below (one of John's), it looks like the bay starts just below the upper skin: So Jonners' work looks to be just about right, which makes a bit of a headache for me 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Col. Posted January 18, 2015 Share Posted January 18, 2015 Ah, of course, similar to the Mosquito. That makes more sense. So, what's your options, face up to the work or fake it and live with the shame? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Aero Posted January 18, 2015 Share Posted January 18, 2015 Yes the bay is hollow right up to the top wing skin. The wheel has got to have somewhere to go. Remember in that shot the nacelle shell has been removed. The number of times people with Vacs in their stack say 'I'm too scared to have a go'. If you're going to end up binning them or giving them away then what's to lose by having a go. Do not treat them like eggs. How many times have I said to people, get a piece of plasticard, score a wiggly line on it and quickly snap it out it's as easy as that. Mike's having fun and creating a super model. With a Dynavector kit and other reputable makes, you know that if you cut out and sand/scrape/file accurately the parts will fit together but never start on a Contrail or a Sanger kit. John 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Posted January 18, 2015 Author Share Posted January 18, 2015 I would have had a much harder time of it if I'd not read your vacform bible John. I'll always be grateful for that, and think that it should be mandatory reading for anyone attempting a vac for the first time As to the wheel bay, I think I could get away with cutting a section out and adding some walls to the side, then using the inner skin of the upper wing as the roof. I'd also have to put a real functional spar in to give the part back its rigidity, as it would be very weak and floppy without it, especially if I drop the flaps like I was planning. I'll ponder it, take a few pics of the wing without the nacelle (just like the pic) and mark out my planned work in Photoshop for approval by the collective Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stringbag Posted January 18, 2015 Share Posted January 18, 2015 Nice one Mike. As you already know from the Wyvern, (Should have finished that one first) you can't go wrong with these kits. A bit like an Aeroclub kit but without the resin and Injection moulded parts. Rapid progress you're making too. Certainly looking forward to this one Matey. Chris. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Brown Posted January 18, 2015 Share Posted January 18, 2015 Hi Mike, This is a great kit! If I recall from my build a few years ago, that rectangular area inside the wheel bays are to help locate the main gear struts. Not accurate, but the designer did it that way to simplify construction. His Scimitar and Sea Vixen use the same method. Looking forward to the rest of your build! Ben Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The wooksta V2.0 Posted January 19, 2015 Share Posted January 19, 2015 (edited) Mike, IIRC - and I'm sure David or John will pick me up if I'm wrong - the Hornet used a Vampire nosegear as a tailwheel assembly. May be easier to get than you think. Excellent work so far. Looking forward to seeing it finished. Edited January 19, 2015 by The wooksta V2.0 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troy Smith Posted January 19, 2015 Share Posted January 19, 2015 I would have had a much harder time of it if I'd not read your vacform bible John. I'll always be grateful for that, and think that it should be mandatory reading for anyone attempting a vac for the first time Link to John's guide http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/28882-vacform-modelling-an-aid/ get some tee-al and sticky pads, great ideas, work brilliantly. Never tried cutting out a vacform, read this, cut out a couple, very easy if you follow this, but as John says, pick a decent vacform to start with. small basic older kits can be be bought cheaply, and are perfect for testing the techniques. Mike, IIRC - and I'm sure David or John will pick me up if I'm wrong - the Hornet used a Vampire nosegear as a tailwheel assembly. Has been mentioned in the other thread, but you are correct Lee, the Hornet tail wheel is the same as the Vampire nose wheel. The hornet tail wheel and tyre is the exact same part as used on the vampire. http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234973909-a-dh-hornet-fix-ation/page-8#entry1863239 HTH T 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Aero Posted January 19, 2015 Share Posted January 19, 2015 Wheel but not the fork and leg. Don't say this too quickly. John 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ththtttu7 Posted January 19, 2015 Share Posted January 19, 2015 There is a lot of metal in this "wooden" aircraft Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomprobert Posted January 19, 2015 Share Posted January 19, 2015 The number of times people with Vacs in their stack say 'I'm too scared to have a go'. If you're going to end up binning them or giving them away then what's to lose by having a go. Do not treat them like eggs. How many times have I said to people, get a piece of plasticard, score a wiggly line on it and quickly snap it out it's as easy as that. Mike's having fun and creating a super model. With a Dynavector kit and other reputable makes, you know that if you cut out and sand/scrape/file accurately the parts will fit together but never start on a Contrail or a Sanger kit. John Couldn't agree more... and you can also add Combat Models to the above list, too Great progress by the way, Mike! Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Posted January 19, 2015 Author Share Posted January 19, 2015 Thanks muchly for your input chaps. I've been doing "house stuff" today, but have been pondering my options a bit now and then. I think I'll probably remove the fake bay roof after adding a spar, then arrange the landing gear around the front bulkhead, as per the pic above. If anyone has some additional pics of the rest of the bay, I'd be most grateful Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug Rogers Posted January 19, 2015 Share Posted January 19, 2015 Looks great so far Mike. Must be something about Vac-forms, mine teeter on a shelf above my bench too. Guess they're always on the brink of being made...but not just yet! Think when I do my Falcon Swift I'll do it in flight as the only thing I'm a bit anxious about is the wheel bay/ undercart set up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug Rogers Posted January 19, 2015 Share Posted January 19, 2015 Wheel but not the fork and leg. Don't say this too quickly. John Especially if you are from Nor'n Iron! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Posted January 19, 2015 Author Share Posted January 19, 2015 Think when I do my Falcon Swift I'll do it in flight as the only thing I'm a bit anxious about is the wheel bay/ undercart set up. I've got one of those too. Don't be suckered in by the boxed in nose Bay - it's total fiction and shouldn't be there. The wheel sprouts out of the front of the rear bulkhead of the bay, and it's kind of hollow in front of that. Sadly, I only found out after I'd meticulously built the bay and added full bulkheads to the fuselage Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ththtttu7 Posted January 19, 2015 Share Posted January 19, 2015 (edited) Hi Mike, Here is what's visible in the undercarriage bays. http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234973909-a-dh-hornet-fix-ation/?p=1865555 Edited January 19, 2015 by David A Collins Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Posted January 20, 2015 Author Share Posted January 20, 2015 Thanks David - those will be most useful! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Posted January 22, 2015 Author Share Posted January 22, 2015 Here's the plan so far, but as a great general once said a plan is nothing more than a basis for change I've glued some strip material along the spar line, as a "base" for the part of the spar that protrudes into the bay, and the red line is where I'm proposing to cut out, leaving the upstand as that odd "surround" that seems to go around the edge of the bay. I'll blank off the sides, create a front & rear bulkhead and then probably regret doing that because i'll have to do some serious work with the landing gear to make them fit. Might be tempted to get my low temperature solder out there What do we think? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Aero Posted January 22, 2015 Share Posted January 22, 2015 No need to cut out the area in front of the main spar. The front spar is it's self the top front wall of the upper wing bay and the sloping bulkhead goes up to the spar. At the bottom of the nacelle bulkhead, there is a step and this is where the U/c cross tube at the top of the oleo pivots. The cross tube is carried by the tubular framework which mostly attaches to the bottom of the two wing ribs either side of the bay (study the photos). To cut out the waste, use my method. Small drill hole at each corner. good sharp score around the waste area. Make two diagonal scores across the area and drill a hole at the intersection. Put the point of the knife into this hole and press as to cut down a diagonal for only a short way. Turn the panel over and with a screwdriver or similar push on the centre and the four triangular petals should just break away if the scores are deep enough. I'll photograph it, give me ten minutes. John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Aero Posted January 22, 2015 Share Posted January 22, 2015 Stage 1 All done and photographed in a few minutes. The black blobs are just to highlight the holes. John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Posted January 22, 2015 Author Share Posted January 22, 2015 I'm already an aficionado of your cut-out technique John, although I seldom drill holes in the corners anymore Does the front bulkhead follow the angled panel line on the outside of the nacelle? That goes aft at quite a rake, and then goes vertical for a wee while. I'll mark the panel in pen & take a photo in a minute Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gingerbob Posted January 22, 2015 Share Posted January 22, 2015 Hey, I like that technique! bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Aero Posted January 22, 2015 Share Posted January 22, 2015 See here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Posted January 22, 2015 Author Share Posted January 22, 2015 Here's a pic of the side of my engine nacelle. I can't help thinking that the angle of the diagonal panel line is a bit too sharp, as per my unbroken line. It should probably be more like the dotted line, although I'd have to check that before committing to scribing it. I'll have a looksee at that pic too - looks very useful, thanks AGAIN!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Aero Posted January 22, 2015 Share Posted January 22, 2015 Mike Slight delay as the dog wanted a quick game of 'Wreck the lounge' by hiding Rabbit . Without a Dyna V kit it's difficult to give a measurement but the firewall angle from the vertical is 18 deg to the main spar and is a touch further aft than yours at the front of the wheel door. It's looking good. John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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