Jump to content

Vallejo Model Air query


Stuck
 Share

Recommended Posts

It`s about understanding the products IMO.

I have been using Vallejo paint for a few years now and all I can say is that they are absolutely fantastic products (all of them, paint, primer, varnish, putty and solvents).

What I have read in this thread seems to me a bit of confusion...

Somebody wanted to sand the primer down... What primer is it? Is it the one for brush paint figures on? Really bad idea.

Primer If you want to sand it go for :

http://www.amazon.es/SPRAY-IMPRIMACION-GRIS-400-ML/dp/B000R9QHWY

Cross reference:

They really did their home work on this document.

http://cdn.acrylicosvallejo.com/0049261608364909a238add9b4a53745/CC073-rev05.pdf

The Model Air range works perfectly but is probably not the best value.

I normally use Model Color range thinned for airbrushing using my own home made cheap as Thinner.

All I can say is, give it a go and find what works for you...

BTW... AKAN Paint are excellent... I use them in Russian subjects... you could check them out too.

Adrian

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Glad to see a +1 on AKAN. I am putting in an order this week. Equally good to know about Vallejo's poor showing in the Yellow department! I will look for alternatives. Recommendations?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Glad to see a +1 on AKAN. I am putting in an order this week. Equally good to know about Vallejo's poor showing in the Yellow department! I will look for alternatives. Recommendations?

I found the Model Air yellow thin and lacking in opacity my alternative was a Revell Aqua yellow which seems to spray okay and is plenty opaque, I didn't choose it ,though, after hours of research into the best yellow rather it was what I had.

As a side note I find the Revell Aqua paints pretty decent ,good to spray, good to brush, decent container and quite a bit of paint for a reasonable price.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

For yellow you need a white base.

I use Tamiya XF3 thinned with IPA. This allows the paint to dry almost on touching the plastic therefore you can apply coats instantly on top of where you've just been. The quick drying of the paint can sometimes leave a less than perfect finish but a quick coat thinned with normal thinner clears up any imperfections. Alternatively you can add a drop or two of acrylic retarder to the IPA that slows the dry time down a touch ( and makes a cheap alternative thinner to boot).

I'd recommend either Tamiya or Gunze applied using this method or have a look at Zero paints. I found their red very easy to apply so I'd imagine the yellow is the same and their paints come pre-thinned.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

My Vallejo model air finally arrived today, I tried a bit little through the airbrush and i am quite impressed i particularly liked the finish the aluminum gave.. On their website they have a very useful fact sheet PDF download all about their products. It states that there is no reason why you cant spray model colour but warns that some of them have pretty nasty pigments in them , ie, cadmium,.. Hats off to Vallejo for going to the trouble to give all this info , I wish Tamiya would take a leaf out of their book and do the same.

From what i have read here I dont think I will be bothering with their primer, but carry on with trusted Tamiya, but it just annoys me that you have to buy it in aerosols and then decant it.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 months later...

John and I are on the same wavelength, apparently. I forgot to mention that I still find Tamiya rattle can primer to be some of the absolute best. Goes on light, even from close up (I don't spray it from 12" away), dries quickly, doesn't peel even after a couple hours. I really, really like it. The drawback is not being able to spray it indoors, even with a spray booth (you could, but I certainly would not recommend it).

I will second pivokrevnik's comment about the Model Air drying on the needle and the tip. You definitely need to clean thoroughly between colors and do a full "detail strip" of the airbrush when you're done with a session. I've only done two sessions with my Iwata Neo, using 3-4 colors each time (not including Vallejo Grey and Black Primers), and it tends to gunk up pretty fast. It hasn't adversely affected spraying during these sessions so far, but a lot of paint collects around the needle on the outside. Definitely pull out the needle and clean it off after a full session because it will have dried paint on it (not a lot, but enough to cause you a problem the next time).

Just the experiences of an airbrushing newb running the 72-bottle suitcase of Model Air, anyway!

I have a full set(72colours) of the ModelAir, and add a few drops of their thinner in the colour cup in my H&S Ultra and dont seem to have any issues with clogging unless I have a extended period of spraying i.e. 20mins+, but then a quick wipe with a paintbrush loaded with the Vallejo/Medea airbrush cleaner, and I am ready to continue. If i use an Iwata Revolution then I have more chance of blockages as the nozzle is considerably smaller, and I have to increase the thinner ratio. I find the coverage quite good, and have not tried to add Future to their polyu primer, but then my AB sessions are usually a week apart, and this gives the primer/ModelAir a good chance to dry out. One problem that I have had with the Vallejo Primer is priming Photoetch, which even after a week or more of drying time still tends to rub-off quite easily, and i will try the primer with some Future added and see if this improves the adhesion. :thumbsup:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...