Will Vale Posted January 28, 2015 Author Share Posted January 28, 2015 Thanks for the kind comments! Paul I do have the other boxing somewhere but I can't find it. Hopefully I can recover enough sanity between now and then to contemplate making another as I'd certainly like a yellow one. I suspect the lower-contrast scheme will really help, and because it's not metallic I can varnish at the end instead of partway through, I'm pretty sure that's been the cause of some difficulty on this one. Will Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul J Posted January 28, 2015 Share Posted January 28, 2015 By the way, the rods are spreader bars (I think) If you wanted to add them they would need to be quite thin and made from stretch sprue. Usually painted , red in this case. Not certain about colouring the rigging as there are varying examples with them painted and not. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cheshiretaurus Posted January 28, 2015 Share Posted January 28, 2015 Fantastic work, the rigging looks exceptionally good that hard work has paid off, BTW if you have soldering iron then that can used in the same way as the hot match (without bits falling off it) Have this kit in the stash but want to finish it as G-AHAN CT 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
perdu Posted January 28, 2015 Share Posted January 28, 2015 This is excellent I don't think I'd bother with the spreaders myself either It looks beautiful as it is 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James G Posted January 28, 2015 Share Posted January 28, 2015 Wow really nice job Will! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdrianMF Posted January 28, 2015 Share Posted January 28, 2015 Looks great. Nice tight lines.I found the only way to do the cabane rigging was to plant the wires under the top wing, then pull them out through the front of the fuselage before sticking the cowling on. And I wouldn't change a thing from where you are now! A tip - if you run your invisible thread over a silver or black permanent marker before you start, you get coloured wires that look more realistic and are easier to see during the rigging process. The layer of ink/pigment doesn't seem to affect adhesion (he said, crossing his fingers...). Regards, Adrian 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Radleigh Posted January 28, 2015 Share Posted January 28, 2015 Superb finish mate, I assume this is your first of the year? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martian Posted January 28, 2015 Share Posted January 28, 2015 It's a real gem! I think I would add the spreaders, they are rather noticeable and a bit of stretched sprue cost nothing. Just keep running them off until you have a pair that you are happy with. Your call though. Martin 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Val Posted January 28, 2015 Share Posted January 28, 2015 She looks absolutely amazing! Top model! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomoshenko Posted January 28, 2015 Share Posted January 28, 2015 lovely work mate. I'm with Martin, go for the spreaders. It will really finish off the kit. If after a couple of attempts they don't work out, then you can always quit while ahead and cut your losses. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spookytooth Posted January 28, 2015 Share Posted January 28, 2015 She looks a beaut mate. Well done sir. Simon. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geedubelyer Posted January 28, 2015 Share Posted January 28, 2015 Hi Will, Despite the trials and tribulations that you've encountered the Tiggie is looking splendid (or is that replendent?). Very neat work. If you do colour the wires they may look better. It could be worth adding the spreaders too since they are so apparent on the full sized birds. A little tip to help with that if I may? On mine, I used a small mound of blu-tack into which I poked a suitable length of thin wire, horizontally. As Paul explains, in this scale the spreaders do need to be fine. With the end held in place I gently slid the airframe onto the wire taking care to adjust the position in between the rigging as I went. Once everything was adjusted and set it was a simple matter to dot a tiny bead of CA onto each end of the spreader bar and rigging intersection in turn. As soon as the CA sets the assembly can be removed from the blu-tack. HTH and good luck. Cheers. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Will Vale Posted January 28, 2015 Author Share Posted January 28, 2015 Thanks folks, I think I will try and add something for the spreaders - stretched sprue rather than wire sounds good because it's nice and light and I don't want to stress the rigging at all. I'll give it a go without glue and see how it feels. So there's that to do, the doors, tail struts, windscreens and some weathering and making good. Should be finished this week hopefully! It is my first (nearly) completion of the year - good going for me since I don't normally manage to get anything done before February-March time. I need to finish up the wolves I'm painting as well and that'll make two.By the way, don't do an image search for "spreader bar" without the word "rigging"... Will Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdrianMF Posted January 28, 2015 Share Posted January 28, 2015 Spreaders: OK, but don't wave superglue at it until you are sure... Regards, Adrian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martian Posted January 29, 2015 Share Posted January 29, 2015 Spreaders: OK, but don't wave superglue at it until you are sure... Regards, Adrian Attach them with PVA, that way the process is reversible if things don't look right. Martin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Will Vale Posted January 29, 2015 Author Share Posted January 29, 2015 Yes definitely - I was going to use watered down PVA applied with a brush. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Will Vale Posted January 31, 2015 Author Share Posted January 31, 2015 Sorry about the drop-off in progress, I wanted to have this done by 31/1 but the last two days have seen us in a whirlwind of viewing a house, talking to solicitor, making an offer etc. All very stressful so whenever I've had a bit of spare time I've tended to spend it curled up in a semi-foetal ball in front of the telly We should know what happens (either way) tomorrow evening. W Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Winenut Posted February 2, 2015 Share Posted February 2, 2015 That little Moth is damn fine...Damn Fine I say! Chocks away! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brianj1uk Posted February 2, 2015 Share Posted February 2, 2015 Hi, just stumbled on your build. Have been fortunate to see the real one up close a few times and your model does it justice! Am just getting back into modeling after the normal break for kids etc. might try something a little less ambitious to start with but I am interested to know what you used for the wires? They look pretty good for scale. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fritag Posted February 2, 2015 Share Posted February 2, 2015 Absolutely beautiful work Will. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Will Vale Posted February 3, 2015 Author Share Posted February 3, 2015 Thanks for the kind words! The wires are smoke coloured "invisible" nylon thread as suggested by AdrianMF and a modeller at our club. It definitely looks finer than the black stuff I used for some aerials on other models, and (going by pictures) maybe even finer than the real thing! That might be down to the translucency though. Cheers, Will Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spiton Posted February 3, 2015 Share Posted February 3, 2015 She's simply beautiful !!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tempestwulf Posted February 3, 2015 Share Posted February 3, 2015 I honestly wouldn't bother with much more on the kit. It looks great and your rigging is spot on for what you've done. You're more of a man than me as I couldn't stomach rigging, I can't get my head around it and would need to literally sit with someone that could show me 'hands on'. I've got two to build after buying the Xtradecal sheet. Probably will make the RNZAF & RAAF versions Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brianj1uk Posted February 3, 2015 Share Posted February 3, 2015 (edited) Here's one of my favourite photo's (me in the back!), I hope to make a model of this Tiger Moth in the near future and if it turns out half as nice as yours i will be a happy boy! I included this photo as it nicely shows the differences that light and background make on the wires (also how, to me, the spreader bars are quite a prominent feature - and can be added without too much fuss!). Just like yours the wires appear to be almost translucent in places. Will look into getting some of the same stuff you used for the wiring when i attempt mine. Also note the different type of wires going along the fuselage. These are more prominent on this aircraft as she is yellow, but they also stand out on most Tiger Moths that are not painted in dark colours. Ah, i see that i need a bit more practice in attaching photo's! Edited February 3, 2015 by brianj1uk 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Will Vale Posted April 20, 2016 Author Share Posted April 20, 2016 Well it's only a year and a bit late but I have finally scraped together enough courage to mend the broken rigging line. I couldn't re-attach it so I drilled it out from above and below and fitted a new line, then made good at the upper wing roots and the lower wing (which I'd never bothered to do). Then I had to make the windshields as punishment for my hubris in thinking I could do better than Airfix... I found some plastic packaging (Hasegawa finishing foil) and after a few false starts settled on punching out disks with an 8.5mm punch, then laying out the windscreens on opposite sides of the hole, so that the punch provided the fuselage curve. I measured and marked out the straight edges, and eyeballed the angles and curves. Then I had to mask them which was even worse! I tried brush-painting the frames and that was... OK, it looked very fine but was quite wobbly and the paint had a tendency to chip off. So in the end they were masked, primed and Alclad-ed. Final assembly involved the spreader bars, doors, windscreens (all of which I fitted with PVA, some of which might be on the screens) plus a new skid for the tail from wire and styrene strip. It still needs weathering and maybe a base. I think if I made another I'd use the kit screens - mine are nice and non-prismatic, but they were so fiddly to make and fit that they've ended up being a bit untidy. Oh well, it's better than the unfinished Tiger Moth with the broken wire that it was this morning Cheers, Will 12 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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