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*FINISHED* LEBANON: 1/72 LAF SE-3160 Alouette III


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Thanks Craig

I appreciate the feedback. I had fun building that gazelle and it really got me back into the hobby (unfortunately some slight damage has occurred and I will have to glue one of the tail fins back on). I've learnt a lot since building that kit thanks to many members on here. The finish is not that great though - I had rarely seen other finished models in the flesh so I had left the gazelle quite glossy, thinking that was what you did. It looked good (to me) in natural light but I took it the the Scottish nationals in Perth and it looked horrendous under the artificial light :( all the blemishes were quite visible and quite noticeable orange peel dimples on the rotors (I was still getting to grips with airbrushing -still am for that matter). Since then I have applied a coat of alclad semi matt varnish and it does look a lot better.

As for the alouette, I'm please to say that I have gotten my mojo back again (the decal fiasco tested my patience). Paint applied with a hairy stick to the affected areas and the white chalky stuff seems to have gone. It of course looks a bit patchy but I'm confident that after another coat or two of varnish to seal the decals it should look okay.

I have now started sticking on the sticky out bits. I was quite concerned about the foot rests / steps but these were surprisingly straight forward, the ones at the front are partly from the whirlybits etch set with bits cut off and extended where required (the port side steps are wider than the starboard, pilots, side). The rest is brass rod of different diameters (0.2 & 0.4mm). I drilled holes into the side of the fuselage to help as anchor points; these will be filled with a smidgen of Mr Surfacer putty before painting. I'll just paint these bits with a hairy stick.

The tail rotor guard and support strut are also on - the former is from the extra tech PE set (however, I note that the aircraft I am building shouldn't have the diagonal support beam but I've left it on to help add strength to this rather delicate piece. The larger support strut was made using 0.4mm brass rod. I was going to use the kit part but it didn't sit at the correct point and also looked too thick. A few more bits to add, the aerials at the front will be fitted after the matt coat has been applied. This is because the masking tape will have to be off when I fit these. hers some photos - I used a backdrop this time.

You might notice the patchy paint I mentioned above

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And a close up of the Port steps

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Cheers for looking

Aaron

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Thanks Henrik. it definitely makes a difference using PE and / or brass rod.

In hindsight I wish I had used brass rod / tube for the rear landing gear. I may try that out during the french fancy GB

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I agree with Henrik, the brass rod really makes a big difference and you have done a great job of making the steps with them.

What do you use to stick the rod together with? I use super-glue myself but I know that a lot of people like to braze them.

When I have finished my Mig-17 I can feel the need to start work on another egg-beater myself, most likely of Russian origin but probably in a South American or African colour scheme, a Mexican Mil Mi-17 might be nice.

I also cannot see any problems with the paint that you have touched up. I have spent a reasonable amount of time around serving helicopters and none of them had a nice clean uniform paint job.

keep up the very good work.

Craig.

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Thank you again Craig :)

For the steps I used superglue (the thick gel stuff, small amount applied with a cocktail stick or thin copper wire). However, I sometimes use krystal clear to help keep some metal part in position then apply a thinner superglue afterwards (I did this on the large support strut on the tail boom). I bought a new soldering iron but haven't got any solder at the moment - I may venture into soldering parts like this in the future but I think the superglue should be okay. I just have to be careful :D

I'll look forward to your Mi-17. To be honest I'm not the biggest fan of Russian helicopters, too ugly in my opinion :) However, the Mi-17 is one that I do like. :D

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Been thinking about soldering metal rod for my steps and mirror arms for my Alouette, when the French fancy GB starts. Last time I used stretched sprue for the same items and it was okay but now I want to try and see if I got the skills for working in metal.If I fail the stretched sprue is still a viable option. Aaron, I still need to send you the metal foil, Still looking for a suitable can or bottle for the glue. I can include some solder got some different rolls in various thickness if you want?

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Those steps and rotor guards looks ace Aaron

I was going to say pretty much the same thing, really nice work on those. It looks like you fiddled with the decals which look a lot better now. I also look forward to seeing your efforts with a soldering iron.

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Thanks you again fellas.

Finished adding the sticky out bits, apart from the aerials at the front. The aerial on the top and on the tail boom were made using a bristle of a paint brush and coloured with marker pen (I picked this tip up form Col. at one of our club nights. He had brought a hunter along (no surprises there :P) and for some of the pitot tubes he had used toothbrush bristles, great idea I thought. The bristles are strong enough to stand on there own and not brittle so will withstand heavy hands like mine). I'm not sure what that orange thing is; I could just make it out in the photo so stuck something that resembled it).

Hand painted all these details then applied Humbrol clear (two coats from an airbrush), MIG wash then wiped off with thinners (its looks a bit too grubby for my liking, I wanted a cleaner looking model but I was a bit generous with the wash - looks okay, but I just have to remember less is more). And finally two coats of Alclad semi matt varnish.

Some of the silvering is still evident :( and some of the paint has worn away during the wash clean up. I could take credit as it being part of the weathering, but I might try to fix them up. The masking take was removed and the canopy looks okays. Bit of glue from the A/C ducting has smeared the top of the canopy, the edges are a bit raggedy but overall I'm pleased. I could have used thin strips of foil or decal strip for the canopy.

heres some photos.

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Cheers for looking

Aaron

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Like the fact that you done the black anti skid paint on the steps. Its small details like this that makes a model stand out from being a good model to be a stunner. Can only agree with Craig removal of the masking tape makes a big difference in appearance.

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Thanks ever so much guys :)

Antoine, apart from when I visited Telford last year and bought a few (okay, a bit more than a few) items I usually order the whirlbird/bits stuff from aviation megastore in the Netherlands. It can end up quite pricey but like you I can't seem to find a stockist in UK. It might be worth contacting them direct as they were very friendly at a Telford and their catalogue is available online. I keep meaning to as I'm after 204B 48ft main rotor blades and they are not in stock on aviation megastore.

http://www.whirlybirdmodels.com/img/Product%20Range%20leaflet%20-%20Nationals%202014%20A5%20-%20v2.pdf

Cheers

Aaron

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Thank you Rob

Another small update. The aerials on the front have been fitted but I've just remembered theres another bracket that needs to go on the front. I 'beefed' up the PE parts as they were too 2D. cut the aerials off and used a small section of brass rod as a sleeve and glued over the end of the area where the aerial is fitted. I then used bristles from a paint brush (coloured using permanent marker pen) and then a blob of white paint on the end. I attached the aerial brackets with Krystal Klear.

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I've added further details to the engine (brass rod etc) and painted. Now needs a coat of varnish, then a wash then semi matt (the FOD guards also need to be fitted but I'll wait until after the wash has been applied).

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I've also added Nav. lights; UV activated glue then painted clear red. one on top one on the bottom - you can see them in these overview shots. The engine is only placed in position.

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Recovering from man flu, throats still a bit sore. Lost a bit of enthusiasm during this time so not as much progress as I had hoped. But getting there. Not much to do at all :)

cheers

Aaron

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Aaron that is superb workmanship!

When I get one of these (note that this is no longer an if but a when!), I shall be using this build thread as a how-to, providing that it's alright with you of course.

Your work on the engine is most realistic and really adds to the look of the model.

I have loved this build thread and I am really looking forward to seeing the end result.

Keep up the good work.

Craig.

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Thanks so much guys :)

Aaron that is superb workmanship!

When I get one of these (note that this is no longer an if but a when!), I shall be using this build thread as a how-to, providing that it's alright with you of course.

Your work on the engine is most realistic and really adds to the look of the model.

I have loved this build thread and I am really looking forward to seeing the end result.

Keep up the good work.

Craig.

Of course I don't mind and hope it helps. What I will say is that its maybe worth using strips of decal paper for the canopy framing. My edges have come up quite untidy. And worthwhile getting the extra tech PE set; some parts are two dimensional so maybe need a bit of brass rod to liven them up.

cheers

Aaron

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