sunray Posted December 16, 2014 Share Posted December 16, 2014 I bought this kit off the Airfix web site for about £8 and its a bargain. It went together well and the only problem I had was that I had to scratch build part of the undercarriage covers as the only kit option is wheels down. The pitot tube was made from a cut down syringe needle and a pin. 20 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
F-32 Posted December 16, 2014 Share Posted December 16, 2014 Very very nice work! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
batcode Posted December 16, 2014 Share Posted December 16, 2014 Supetb haek, looks great vety nice work and nicely displayed 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Longhorn Posted December 16, 2014 Share Posted December 16, 2014 Very nice! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelling minion Posted December 16, 2014 Share Posted December 16, 2014 Very nice build. And nicely posed as well. Not bad for £8! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quartz Posted December 16, 2014 Share Posted December 16, 2014 wow, great job i wish i'd gone the same colours and i'm facing same thing, i decided to go air break up and flaps up. then find that there is no option for wheels up. not great for someone coming back into the hobby after a long time. chucking in a load of filler just gives a bad surface. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Low flyer Posted December 16, 2014 Share Posted December 16, 2014 Wow that's tidy 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foghorn Leghorn Posted December 16, 2014 Share Posted December 16, 2014 That's lovely 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomjw Posted December 16, 2014 Share Posted December 16, 2014 Nicely done. Looks great. Cheers, Tom. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
triumphfan Posted December 16, 2014 Share Posted December 16, 2014 Very nice. With the right background, some of those pics would look like the real thing. Steve. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SimonR Posted December 16, 2014 Share Posted December 16, 2014 Love it, whats not to like - a Chivenor Hawk!! Great little kit isnt it, and you've pulled a blinder with this one! cheers Simon 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eng Posted December 16, 2014 Share Posted December 16, 2014 Beautiful build, the Hawk really suited this scheme especially the ones that had special tails. Excellent work. Rgds, Eng 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Natter Posted December 17, 2014 Share Posted December 17, 2014 That's really nice. Out of curiosity, how did you get that neat curve in the acrylic rod? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sunray Posted December 17, 2014 Author Share Posted December 17, 2014 Thanks for the kind comments guys. I forgot to add I used a photo etch set by Kuivalainen for the interior (KPE48013) which is well worth the money from Hannants for £7.99. That's really nice. Out of curiosity, how did you get that neat curve in the acrylic rod? I first saw how to do it on Phil Florys excellent site Florymodels. He has done a video how to do it and its on his January News Show which is also on youtube. Any way this is what I did. The acrylic rod I used was 6mm in diameter and 50cm in length. First I cut it in half with a razor saw, then I put the electric fan assisted oven on in the kitchen and set the temperature to approx 125 degrees C. I borrowed one of the wife's cotton kitchen cloths and a pyrex glass bowl (20cm in diameter). I folded the cotton kitchen cloth in half and placed it in the pyrex bowl so it covered the bottom and sides of the bowl to prevent the acrylic rod touching any part of the glass. I then placed the rod across the bowl and the cloth. Now with the oven on temperature I put the lot in the oven and closed the door. While the rod is warming up I lay another kitchen cloth over the edge of the kitchen bench.After about few minutes the rod in the oven should start to sag in the middle. When it does this take the rod out of the oven place it on the cloth on the bench and start to bend downwards with firm gentle pressure but don't force it, if you know what I mean. Be careful as the rod will be warm to touch and I have used a pair of leather gloves to hold the rod.If you don't get the bend required just put the rod back into the oven and warm again. Once you have the bend you want keep hold of the rod as it cools down to keep its shape. Thats all there is to it and it only takes about 10 minutes max for a 6mm rod. If you use thicker rod I would extend the time and I wouldn't increase the temp.Hope this helps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darwinism Posted December 17, 2014 Share Posted December 17, 2014 Lovely job. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary West Posted December 17, 2014 Share Posted December 17, 2014 That's really nice, very well done 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goon Posted December 17, 2014 Share Posted December 17, 2014 Nice job! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pawel Szczudlyk Posted December 17, 2014 Share Posted December 17, 2014 Top job!It looks god in flight This is my favourite aircraft apart from a spitfire. Cheers 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phildagreek Posted December 17, 2014 Share Posted December 17, 2014 Like it, nice. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Natter Posted December 18, 2014 Share Posted December 18, 2014 Thanks Ian. I have bent acrylic rod by heating over a candle (very hit and miss) and by bending the rod around a pot of boiling water on a gas stove, pulling the rod towars me and bracing the pot handle against my midriff (how dangerous?!!!). Next time I'll try your trick. Thanks again. Dave 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RNoAF Aerobatic Team Posted December 18, 2014 Share Posted December 18, 2014 Superb work! Great finish on the Hawk. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMCS Posted December 19, 2014 Share Posted December 19, 2014 Love the Hawk, great to see it in flight 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jabberwocky Posted December 22, 2014 Share Posted December 22, 2014 That's a gorgeous Hawk. It's odd that Airfix give you pilots but have the undercarriage doors moulded as one unit in the lowered position, but Italeri let you have the undercarriage raised but with no pilot. Sometimes the engineering of a kit can make a simple idea more difficult than it should be. When I built my Red Arrows synchro pair I had to have one of each, and I agree that using filler in the Airfix u/c bay leaves you with a tricky job to get those complex curves done smoothly, but you have made a very convincing job of it. A warning to anyone thinking about replicating this idea though; be careful which filler you use. I tried a "hot" filler, (Squadron Putty), on an Airfix Lightning and it melted through the thin styrene. Cheers, Paul 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sunray Posted December 24, 2014 Author Share Posted December 24, 2014 Thanks guys for all the comments. That's a gorgeous Hawk. It's odd that Airfix give you pilots but have the undercarriage doors moulded as one unit in the lowered position, but Italeri let you have the undercarriage raised but with no pilot. Sometimes the engineering of a kit can make a simple idea more difficult than it should be. When I built my Red Arrows synchro pair I had to have one of each, and I agree that using filler in the Airfix u/c bay leaves you with a tricky job to get those complex curves done smoothly, but you have made a very convincing job of it. A warning to anyone thinking about replicating this idea though; be careful which filler you use. I tried a "hot" filler, (Squadron Putty), on an Airfix Lightning and it melted through the thin styrene. Cheers, Paul Paul you are spot. I was surprised to find no option for a closed undercarriage. I never thought of using filler, what I used was a thin piece of plastic card. I placed the lower unassembled wing on the card and used it as a rough template for the undercarriage covers then I cut it out then sanded to ensure a good fit. Once I was happy I used the thin card as a much better template and used thicker plastic card for the actual covers. Once cut and sanded to fit I used scrap plastic card to packout the undercarriage housings so the covers were slightly proud and glued in place. Once dry I just sanded down to get the wheel bulges. I am going to use the template again on a Red Hawk and a Canadian Air Force CT-155 Hawk. I hope this helps someone? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now