Airbrush cleaning tips?

[Raven Morpheus]

Hello

I've got what is admittedly an el-cheapo Chinese airbrush, one of those AS brand ones you get on ebay for about £10.

I primarily use Vallejo Model Air paints. For cleaning between colours I use water, rinsing the cup out and running some through until I get clear water. After I'm done I run Ultimate Modelling Products Airbrush Cleaner through, again until it ends up clear. Just recently I seem to spend more time cleaning my airbrush than I do anything else, especially when I've used it, cleaned it, but come to use it a day or two (or more) later, because I can't get paint to flow through it properly if at all!

Even with a new airbrush of the same brand (I've bought the same item from the same seller twice over the last 6-9 months now) I'm finding this is the case and I get the feeling I'm going to have to buy a new one in not too long a time.

So, apart from not using an ultrasonic cleaner (which I do plan on investing in), what am I doing wrong?

I want to upgrade after Xmas to a H&S Ultra (@ about £60) but I'm concerned that I'll have the same problems, and I just can't afford £60 every few months!

TIA

Edited December 11, 2014 by Raven Morpheus

[Fatcawthorne]

I regularly use Vallejo paints and they clog my airbrushes every time I use them (using a "decent" Aztek).

My wife is a beauty therapist (my Sergeant Major once asked her what she could do to improve my looks then, to which she replied that she wasn't a plastic surgeon - love eh!) so we have access to beauty wholesalers and from there I buy Surgical Spirit in bulk which is pennies compared to Airbrush Cleaner and does just as good a job, esp breaking down Vallejo paint. I use it for soaking and for spraying through to clear it out.

Hope this is of some help.

PS Beauty wholesalers sell foam backed nail buffers for pennies too!

[FalkeEins]

what am I doing wrong?

ha..I'm tempted to say, using acrylics, had exactly the same problems even using a dedicated aerosol airbrush cleaner. Must be something to do with the bigger 'grain' in the acrylic paint, those microscopic deposits build up over time....the only acrylic I use now is the Galeria varnish, super stuff...

..surgical spirit ? I tend to use that for smoothing down filler....so you use it as a cleaner then ?

[Mike]

It's not your airbrush, and certainly won't be if you're going to get a H&S Ultra. A reasonable airbrush can last years if you look after it. I suspect you're just not cleaning it properly, and the paint is turning to jelly inside the mechanism. When you clean it, it's best to put airbrush cleaner/acrylic thinner through it a couple of times before the next colour, backflushing it a couple of times by covering the air cap and forcing the air back into the paint cup, which bubbles up, bringing any paint residue with it. Then when you're done, do a proper clean before you put it away for a day or more. Airbrushes are precision mechanisms, and you can't afford to skimp on looking after them. Your cleaning routine will go through a few evolutions before you get to a stage where you can reliably and quickly clean your brush, but you will get there

[little-cars]

I have to agree with Mike, I don't think it's the just the brush.

What are you using the thin the paint?

Are you using drying retarder ?

Have you tried using the Vallejo cleaner?

Can you give us the detailed routine you use to clean the bush.

Ta,

Paul

[Raven Morpheus]

I have to agree with Mike, I don't think it's the just the brush.

What are you using the thin the paint?

Are you using drying retarder ?

Have you tried using the Vallejo cleaner?

Can you give us the detailed routine you use to clean the bush.

Ta,

Paul

Yeah I tried the Vallejo cleaner when I started Airbrushing. I agree with the guys on the International Scale Modeller youtube channel when they say Vallejo's cleaner is not very good. I had more problems with it than I do using UMP's cleaner.

I don't thin the Vallejo Model Air paints as they tend to not need it, or seem to not need it. Besides in the case of some if I thinned them any more they'd be water - their Yellow (#2) for example is very thin.

As for my routine, well as I said between colours I use water, and when I'm packing up I run UMP cleaner through the brush. Both until the outcome is clear, I spray it into a jar I've got specifically for doing so (one of those one's with the airbrush cradle on it). I do occasionally do a "backflush", especially when I've been having significant issues getting paint through, but I've not found that to be all that helpful - I've still ended up with the same problem, i.e. a clogged airbrush the next time I come to use it. Can't really tell you more than that because that's all I tend to do, spray the water and cleaner through, a "backflush" every once in a while and occasionally I've taken the airbrush apart completely and run cleaning brushes through the holes that I can.

Generally when I put the airbrush away I've got a good flow of cleaner and it's coming out nice and clear. Which is why I can't work out why the next time I come to use the airbush I often have to clean it first. Unless I've got stuff in the nozzle even after I've run cleaner through before I put it away, but then I would have thought that would hinder the flow of cleaner in the first place!?

Edited December 11, 2014 by Raven Morpheus

[little-cars]

Yeah I tried the Vallejo cleaner when I started Airbrushing. I agree with the guys on the International Scale Modeller youtube channel when they say Vallejo's cleaner is not very good. I had more problems with it than I do using UMP's cleaner.

I don't thin the Vallejo Model Air paints as they tend to not need it, or seem to not need it. Besides in the case of some if I thinned them any more they'd be water - their Yellow (#2) for example is very thin.

As for my routine, well as I said between colours I use water, and when I'm packing up I run UMP cleaner through the brush. Both until the outcome is clear, I spray it into a jar I've got specifically for doing so (one of those one's with the airbrush cradle on it). I do occasionally do a "backflush", especially when I've been having significant issues getting paint through, but I've not found that to be all that helpful - I've still ended up with the same problem, i.e. a clogged airbrush the next time I come to use it. Can't really tell you more than that because that's all I tend to do, spray the water and cleaner through, a "backflush" every once in a while and occasionally I've taken the airbrush apart completely and run cleaning brushes through the holes that I can.

Generally when I put the airbrush away I've got a good flow of cleaner and it's coming out nice and clear. Which is why I can't work out why the next time I come to use the airbush I often have to clean it first. Unless I've got stuff in the nozzle even after I've run cleaner through before I put it away, but then I would have thought that would hinder the flow of cleaner in the first place!?

I don't have any problem with their cleaner, and haven't had any independent reports of any problems with it.

As Mike mentioned, it does sound like a blockage in the brush.

Do you clean and check the inside of the paint nozzle for paint/gunge buildup?

It could be that the paint needs thinning, mixing more thoroughly or is reacting with cleaner and gelling the paint.

I would try thinning it with a little water and see if that affects things

This gel can end up in the paint nozzle and block it.

One other thing you could try is to remove the needle before you put the brush away and see if that helps at all.

One of the advantages of the Ultra you mentioned is that it is easy to strip and clean. The nozzle is big enough to hold and they do their own cleaning brushes, one for the body, one for the nozzle. You can also back flush the H&S nozzles to get rid of any nozzle buildup and microbrushes are great for checking the end of the nozzle is clean.

Paul

[Skyhunter66]

Badger Airbrush Cleaner in a spray can - this is my saviour with similar problems! Comes with a separate cap which has a narrow tube on so you can get in right inside the airbrush cup and blast out the offending particle! I use loads of the stuff!

Chris

[SaintsPhil]

I think you're having the same issues I had with Vallejo, which lead me to switch to Mr Color. I, like you blamed the paint but I think the real issue was not cleaning properly. I've since discovered by experience (despite people telling me on here...) that back flushing was the very important step I missed. Both Mike and Paul mention it above (and probably did to me during my 'posts of frustraition'). I now back flush on every clean, including between colours. To illustrate the point to your self, clean the AB as you have been, until it runs clean then back flush and see how clean the stream is!

Phil

Edited December 11, 2014 by SaintsPhil

[little-cars]

Badger Airbrush Cleaner in a spray can - this is my saviour with similar problems! Comes with a separate cap which has a narrow tube on so you can get in right inside the airbrush cup and blast out the offending particle! I use loads of the stuff!

Chris

This is now sold as spraycraft cleaner the standard cap has a stub tube already on it and there is a longer tube attached to the outside of the can that can also be used. Great for getting inside small spaces.

Paul

Edited December 11, 2014 by little-cars

[tank152]

I agree with the guys on the International Scale Modeller youtube channel when they say Vallejo's cleaner is not very good.

Well they would say that wouldn't they, they're the same people who own Ultimate Products so obviously will be pushing their own stuff!

[Skyhunter66]

This is now sold as spraycraft cleaner the standard cap has a stub tube already on it and there is a longer tube attached to the outside of the can that can also be used. Great for getting inside small spaces.

Paul

yes I've that one as well Paul but its not as good IMHO and also is a smaller can!

chris

[Mike]

Well they would say that wouldn't they, they're the same people who own Ultimate Products so obviously will be pushing their own stuff!

As an independent bystander, who knows both the Ultimate product line & Vallejo's, you're being a bit unkind to them there. Their thinners & cleaner is top-banana, and I know a lot of people that think the same. Obviously YMMV, but they don't strike me as the sorts to promote their own products without a basis in fact

[DannyB]

I've got a H&S Evo and if the Ultra is anything like that you will find clean up soooo much easier!!

I'd been through several *cheaper* brushes before I given my first *proper* airbrush, I had been expecting the gulf of difference in feel and results but what had really surprised me was how quick and easy it has been to clean.

For cleaning up after vallejo I use their own cleaner followed by some stronger cellulose thinners to flush it through, the other thing I've found recently is 'periodontal brushes' amazing at getting in to the tight confined bits. I've used the cleaner in a spray can before and never got on with, bits of kitchen roll, cottons buds and little brushes are perfect.

[Will Vale]

I clean mine (H&S Infinity or Evo) with Tamiya thinners (acrylic or lacquer depending on the paint used) after every painting session. After flushing it out per Mike's advice I take it to pieces and clean the components with cotton buds and paper towels damp with thinner. Just stuff on the paint path though, so cup, nozzle and needle mainly. It takes about 10 minutes and it's worth it because it's always ready to use when I want to paint again.

I found a lot of good advice on IPMS Stockholm's site

A couple of observations:

* If you use lacquer thinner, you need really good ventilation and gloves, as it evaporates very quickly and will suck the fat out of your fingers.

* The brush-friendly acrylics (Vallejo, Citadel) leave a lot more gunk in the brush than Tamiya acrylics or lacquers do.

Like DannyB says, the H&S brushes are a bit easier to clean than the others I've tried!

Will

[tank152]

As an independent bystander, who knows both the Ultimate product line & Vallejo's, you're being a bit unkind to them there. Their thinners & cleaner is top-banana, and I know a lot of people that think the same. Obviously YMMV, but they don't strike me as the sorts to promote their own products without a basis in fact

I didn't say their stuff wasn't any good, I was just stating that they push their own products, this is obvious by the strategically placed Ultimate stickers etc in the videos.

I've tried their airbrush cleaner and wouldn't say it was any better than Vallejo's.

Anyway, sorry for any offence caused.

[Head in the clouds.]

I have not used an Airbrush for very long but what I have gathered is that if you are to leave your brush for anyhting more than a day or two then a strip clean is best every time, if I am going to use it the next day or two I leave it in it's stand with a little thinner/white spirit in the cup but if it is a fail safe you want then as mentioned before a strip down is the way, if you do purchase the H&S you wont be disapointed, simple to clean as well.

Gary.

[rmcclure]

You said you're going to invest in an ultrasonic cleaner - excellent. I give my Iwata a few minutes in one of these every 2-3 weeks with a few drops of Medea AB cleaner added to the water.

Vallejo AB cleaner - always found it excellent. I only changed to Medea cleaner because it comes in bigger bottles. It works just as well although it does foam up a little.

Kitchen roll for cleaning? Never - don't get the stuff within a mile of your AB. No matter how careful you are, fibres will accumulate in your AB. I use pieces of old, well washed t-shirt for cleaning the cup of my AB.

[Quartz]

This is from a total beginer who was experiencing exactly the same thing - bought a cheap as chips AS186 set up with 2 brushes after i read everything i could on here and other places about a month ago with the reasoning that if i decide to keep modelling i'll uprgade my kit later on, i know it's wasted money in the long run (buy cheap buy twice etc) but i'm happy with the decision i made so far, after a bumpy start anyway, but i knew that was comming as im a noob at this airbrushing stuff. everyone has to start somewhere right?

i see your using model air, i myself am using model colour and thinning with vallejo thinner and i was getting exactly the same thing, airbrush would be fine i'd strip it and clean it and as soon as i used it again it would clog repeatedly. i noticed that every time i stripped the brush down it would have gunge on the needle from the point where the paint enters the brush, not to the tip but not far from it. i used a wet piece of the finest micromesh i have and gently rubbed the needle where i notice the needle gunging up, very gently. After searching for solutions like you have i saw a post saying to leave a tiny amount of vallejo cleaner in the airbrush after the cleanup like head in the clouds mentions above.

at the same time i was getting what i thought was tip dry and looked for drying retarder from my local model shops, none in stock so kept searching on the internet for solutions. i found a post or video recomending to use 1 or 2 drops of airbrush cleaner in the cup while mixing (smells the same as vallejo thinner but only stronger). if it helps any i have bought a couple of bottles of model air and still find that it needs a tiny bit of thinning - the colors i tried anyway.

anyway when i get back to my cheapo airbrush i use the cleaner that was left in the cup add model colour to it then thinners till it's the concistency of skimmed milk, and if iv'e screwed up by over thinning as i usually do add a couple more drops of paint, try it till it's thin enough but not too thin. i also dropped my air pressure and stopped trying to use my airbrush like a car paint sprayer. i agitate the paint in the cup with a paintbush to make sure it's mixxed.

it worked for me and there are probably a hundred different reasons not to use cleaner in the cup to mix paints (it breaks down the paint for a start, very well i might add) but for now me being a noob it'll work. what my completed models will look like in 12 months i don't know.

like you've said the problem is probably at your end especially if it's happening again and again and in my opinion the cheap airbrush isn't helping you find out whats going wrong very easily. keep trying different things. who knows, ill probably be back in this thread in a week needing a new airbrush - im a tradesman btw and will have nothing but the very best of tools in my toolkit (knowlage being top of the list, now wheres the spell checker ) and the old addage is true, buy cheap buy twice, the only thing i have in my defence on buying a cheap airbrush is i never did have the best tools when i was an apprentice in my 1st year.

edit forgot to tank rmcclure - common sense really but sometimes till someone points it out to you you dont notice. like when i felt the end of a cocktail stick snapping off in the bottom of a pot of humbrol the other day. must remember to square the stick off first.

Edited December 13, 2014 by Quartz

[Stephen]

I use an AS airbrush with acrylics and I've found Surgical Spirit to be an excellent cleaner. I break down and clean the brush every few sessions. I disassemble the nozzle parts and leave them to soak in some surgical spirit and make sure the needle is clean. To clean the inside of the cup/body I use a combination of pipe cleaners (from ebay) and cotton buds. I also use the little wire cleaning brushes http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B004GUN4Q2?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpageand for cleaning the tip of the nozzle I use this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/110835459053?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

HTH

Stephen

PS I started off with an Aztek and these AS brushes are much easier to maintain.

Edited December 13, 2014 by Stephen

[cruiserguy]

Hi Everyone,

I will have to admit I am obsessive about cleaning my airbrushes - Badger 200s. I use Vallejo Modelcolor, thinned appropriately, almost exclusively. After each colour, I run cleaner through the airbrush, either Vallejo or Ultimate, backflush, and then strip the airbrush down to clean the needle. Over the last 5 years I have had no trouble until now. Recently, one of the brushes clogged up and try as I might I still can't get it to unblock. My conclusion is that even if you are as obsessive as I am, there will be times when your airbrush blocks no matter what paint/thinner/cleaner combination you use. I only hope I can get my blocked airbrush cleared without having to go to extremes.

Best Wishes,

Will.

[Beardie]

Try withdrawing the needle until it is visible in the bottom of the paint cup and if there is paint on it give it a few flicks with a good quality paintbrush then hit the air button and flush the nozzle while the needle is still withdrawn, then re-seat the needle gently into the nozzle and turn it a couple of times and then withdraw back till the tip is visible in the bottom of the paint cup again and repeat this until the needle stays clean. Any gritty lumpy particles in the paint can't escape through the nozzle unless the needle is retracted completely out of the way. Also with the needle retracted place a finger over the tip of the nozzle cap and hit the air to blow any large particles back into the paintcup as there just might be something there that can't pass through the nozzle.

I have a half dozen of the chinese copies of the Iwata with the air regulator screw under the tip which I have found excellent and don't miss a beat (I have owned all the big brands at one time or another when I used to do custom paintwork) but since coming back to modelling I only use these cheap brushes as they do all I need them to. To be honest I have never had any problems with even the cheapest of airbrushes, Unless a nozzle splits(Due to the needle being forced in too hard) or a needle becomes hooked or bent the only problem is keeping them clean and making sure that the needle seats well in the nozzle(But don't use force to push it home just a gentle rotation in the tip before tightening the needle chuck).

For cleaning acrylic I always use Isopropyl alcohol from the chemists or beauty suppliers (This should even dissolve hardened acrylic though it needs to soak in for a wee while and won't harm the o-rings in the brush, white spirit for enamels and cellulose thinners for automotive paints. With enamels if they have hardened in the brush I dismantle and use acetone to clean metal parts, (keep this away from any plastic,rubber or painted parts as it s a pretty aggressive solvent.

[Quartz]

strip down your gear know how it works.

[Duncan B]

I find that Vallejo paint clogs very easily and does take more cleaning out of the airbrush than some other acrylic paints. I have noticed that even after a good flush through there will still be big lumps of hardened paint which only become apparent after back flushing, this is not a problem I encounter with Tamiya or Mr Hobby acrylics but do with Lifecolor and Vallejo so I guess it is down to the way the paint bonds.

I would suggest getting a few tins of Premier's Airbrush reamer from the Airbrush Company, that stuff will shift any dried on paint build up inside your airbrush. Most common problems with airbrushes usually stem from them not being cleaned properly.

Duncan B

[hgbn]

I strip my airbrush down every time I'm done painting even in between colour shifts. After it has been flushed with cellulose thinner ( only use enamels) I use cotton swabs to clean the cup mouth or whatever you call it. rolls of a piece of kitchen roll in roughly the same diameter as the needle, dip the tip of the pointed paper roll in thinner and clean the nozzle until no paint trace is visible on the paper. swab the needle clean and by every 10-15th cleaning cycle runs a paper roll the same diameter as the needle through the entire length of the canal where the needle resides. ( you will surprised how much paint residue there is in that canal) Yes it takes some time to clean it this way. But my old trusty Revell profi airbrush still functions and paints like a brand new even its nearly 20 years old. Just be aware of not damaging the tip of the needle in the process.