hgbn Posted December 21, 2014 Share Posted December 21, 2014 Yeap the 25% rule does apply as always, with VacFrom models, just cutting the major pieces out is fine....thats the easy bit! Even cleaning up bits isn't a problem, it may be time consuming but there is always more to do on a VacForm model. Ok if the model came with small bits made of injected moulded plastic then that will be ok. Some of the fiddly bit are sometimes better to be made from injection moulded plastic, as long as it's not major bits or masses of little bits! Take a photo if you are a bit unsure, but it sounds ok. Just a further question. Since my build is a helo and is only a clear and a solid fuselage, nothing else is provided. My plan is to use a Italeri 1/72 OH-13 Sioux as a donor kit for the Rotors and stuff associated with those, would that be withing the limits?? Anything else is going to be scratch build, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickyrich Posted December 21, 2014 Share Posted December 21, 2014 Try and keep the number of injected bits to a minimum, scratch building everything else is great. Unless anyone else has any problems with your plan then it should be ok? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SleeperService Posted December 21, 2014 Share Posted December 21, 2014 This looks like a great chance for a vacform stash reduction I have been meaning to do for ages, the trouble is how do you value them ? If you want to build it it's valuable if you don't it's worthless Anyhoo I'll be in with a Sanger Blenheim IV that will become the Bolingbroke floatplane. I brought the Horsa to do the proposed vac-form GB but it's huge! There are some fantastic entries already this could be great! With Tom doing a Sanger Shackleton I'll be able to pinch plenty of ideas! Doing my first rigging and first vacform in 2015. Whatever next? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gingerbob Posted December 21, 2014 Share Posted December 21, 2014 Except that just after you start- and potentially for some time during the build, the value hits rock-bottom. Then if you complete it, it becomes priceless! Have you got the floats sorted? bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul J Posted December 23, 2014 Share Posted December 23, 2014 Decided! I'll be building my 1/72nd CC-144 Challenger resin kit!! Pic of kit contents later. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woody37 Posted December 26, 2014 Share Posted December 26, 2014 Got a CMR Shorts S.30, a resin beast, so this sounds like a good time to crack open the box Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
canberraman Posted December 28, 2014 Share Posted December 28, 2014 I'd like to join the party if I can? This seems the perfect motivation to get me to build the lovely resin HS Andover C.1 in 1/72 that was unveiled by S&M Models at SMW this year. Mark 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomprobert Posted December 28, 2014 Share Posted December 28, 2014 This GB looks to be shaping up very nicely with some very interesting models out there waiting. I cannot wait to be honest! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SleeperService Posted December 28, 2014 Share Posted December 28, 2014 Except that just after you start- and potentially for some time during the build, the value hits rock-bottom. Then if you complete it, it becomes priceless! Have you got the floats sorted? bob Hi Bob Sorry for the delay unfollowed the thread by accident Floats are sort of sorted. I'm going to have a go at scratch-building a pair before I commit the kit. I can see some vacforming taking place.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troy Smith Posted December 28, 2014 Share Posted December 28, 2014 I'm with you, Ray, but unless I can't wait (which is possible) it might be the Kiwi Resins (or something like that) 1/48 Percival Mew Gull. Or maybe the ______ 1/48 vac VL Pyry, which is a Finnish trainer that I met at the museum in Helsinki and it was love at first sight. Fortunately my Finnish wife approves of her too bob The VL Pyry is by Broplan, a Polish company. Looks a decent kit. I got one that had been left in sunlight, which yellowed the plastic and it and went brittle Regarding vacforms, John Adams of Aeroclub posted up this guide, with some very useful methods http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/28882-vacform-modelling-an-aid/ one small point, the superglue/bicarbonate of soda filler mix goes crumbly in time, talc is a better bulking agent but does not speed up the drying time. For jobs like this, 10 packs of 3g tubes superglue from a pound shop work fine, to be honest it's the only superglue I use;) I found you can use plastic shavings and scrap and superglue as a fast 'back fill' eg in a spinner, but go easy, the superglue curing gives out heat, did this to some bits of a Falcon Seafang. HTH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickyrich Posted December 30, 2014 Share Posted December 30, 2014 ok I have finally made up my mind on what I'm building and it's not on the original list! This just arrived yesterday and it looks amazing, though some of the moulds are a bit rough it looks like a nice build. Will probably do it in a Brazilian colour scheme rather than the Italian ones, so will have to look for some decals. My only concern is the warning "for the experinced modeler"...hmm I wonder what experince is and do I have it ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philp Posted December 30, 2014 Share Posted December 30, 2014 Ok, have never built a resin kit and have picked up a bunch at the last two Wonderfests so might be a good one to try. I have several figures, some Star Trek, Bablyon 5, Galactica ships to build, Eagle 5 from Spaceballs and the Flying Wing from Raiders of the Lost Ark. Probably pick one of the easier Trek kits to see if I can put pieces together without sticking my fingers together first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feoffee2 Posted January 1, 2015 Share Posted January 1, 2015 Hi Is it too late to put my name down Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomprobert Posted January 1, 2015 Share Posted January 1, 2015 Hi Is it too late to put my name down Thanks Nope... and welcome. What do you have in mind? Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feoffee2 Posted January 1, 2015 Share Posted January 1, 2015 Nope... and welcome. What do you have in mind? Tom Thanks I am thinking of either a welsh models md11 or an authentic airliners e175 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Romeo Alpha Yankee Posted January 1, 2015 Share Posted January 1, 2015 This GB looks to be shaping up very nicely with some very interesting models out there waiting. I cannot wait to be honest! Have you mentioned what you have planned Tom? I am still undecided, Could be a vac CL604 or something bigger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomprobert Posted January 1, 2015 Share Posted January 1, 2015 Have you mentioned what you have planned Tom? I am still undecided, Could be a vac CL604 or something bigger Sounds tasty! I am planning a 1/48th Shackleton MR3 from the Sanger vac... should be fun... Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JackG Posted January 1, 2015 Share Posted January 1, 2015 Hello lads, I've a question regarding working with metal. Earlier this week I tried painting a figure cast in metal, and I found the primer was rubbing off from the very slightest touch of my fingers. So what do you do to prepare/clean the surface, what primer to use, and how long do you let the primer dry? regards, Jack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philp Posted January 2, 2015 Share Posted January 2, 2015 Jack, Never had this problem with the few metal figures I have tried so far. What primer are you using? I have been using either Tamiya Primer or just store brand (Walmart here in the US). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JackG Posted January 2, 2015 Share Posted January 2, 2015 I used Tamiya's liquid surface primer. I did cut it down with lacquer thinner (walmart brand) so it can pass through the airbrush. Seems to be pretty resilient on regular injection plastic and resin. All I can think is, there was some residue on the metal preventing proper adhesion of the primer. I've stripped down with simply green, letting it soak overnight, and then washed in soap and water. Soon as it dries, will try it again. I've read though some people let the primer cure for two weeks??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black Knight Posted January 2, 2015 Share Posted January 2, 2015 Hello lads, I've a question regarding working with metal. Earlier this week I tried painting a figure cast in metal, and I found the primer was rubbing off from the very slightest touch of my fingers. So what do you do to prepare/clean the surface, what primer to use, and how long do you let the primer dry? regards, Jack I've not had that problem, except a bit coming off of high spots after a lot of handling. I use an ordinary spray can of matt black auto paint as primer/undercoat. I usually let it dry for over a week cos I usually forget about it. I'd say, just give the metal a good scrub with a degreasant. Fairey liquid applied directly and scrubbed with an old toothbrush should do the job. Edit; you posted as I was typing. It could be the amount of thinners; reducing the adhesive quality of the paint on the metal. We used to find if we over thinned paint it would not adhere to bare metal car parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philp Posted January 2, 2015 Share Posted January 2, 2015 Sounds like the right plan. I just use the rattle cans for primer on figs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smudge Posted January 6, 2015 Share Posted January 6, 2015 Hello to all non-injected GB'ers, Thought I would just post this, my first entry. The casual observer may be forgiven for thinking I have made a mistake, and that this should be in the Sci-Fi GB. However, this is for real and did actually 'fly'. The joy of resin kits! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickyrich Posted January 7, 2015 Share Posted January 7, 2015 nice, it is certainly different! Anigrand models are always interesting to build, each has it's own challenges, most of my bigger ones from them have/had warped fuselages!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JOCKNEY Posted January 7, 2015 Share Posted January 7, 2015 Lots of choices for this one. Resin Breda 88 Resin Cant Z504 Resin Heinkel P.1073 Schneller Strahljager Or Vacform Saunders Roe SRA1 Vacform Blackburn Perth / Iris Vacform Hawker Henley Or Continue to dig into the stash... Trouble is never built Resin or Vacform before ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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