Bigdave22014 Posted April 12, 2020 Share Posted April 12, 2020 What? you mean the sliding door doesn't work? How about 1/3rd open? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBaron Posted April 12, 2020 Share Posted April 12, 2020 On 4/11/2020 at 12:37 AM, hendie said: That image sent my cognitive functions into meltdown good and proper. Like a glitch in the Matrix I wondered for a moment which of two worlds I currently inhabited: 'Take the red pill and you're standing at the bar, take the blue pill and you're safely back at hendie's bench.' The compound effect here of so many quality details and compelling material surfaces is hard to comprehend (comprehendie? ) in a single viewing, it's just that good. I've seen large scale models ('bigatures') used in films with less realism than this when viewed in such proximity - this work is so strong it almost produces scale sounds to go with it. Bravo my friend. The door? I think it's your privilege to decide of course, though my preference would be for a scale Lauren Bacall smouldering in across the threshold to get you to autograph this month's issue of Impeccably Tasteful Scale Interiors magazine, which in a piece of mindbending Matrixism has a cover feature on this carriage. 4 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete in Lincs Posted April 12, 2020 Share Posted April 12, 2020 17 minutes ago, TheBaron said: Lauren Bacall smouldering in across the threshold I'll need to go for a lie down now! 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MR2Don Posted April 12, 2020 Share Posted April 12, 2020 This may not be a highly appreciated comment, but I find that the better quality builds at these scales are, the more the eye gets deceived into thinking it's looking at the real thing, and hence the slightest "imperfection" starts to look terrible. But, please, for God's sake, don't think I'm criticising what you're doing, I've just got to get my head round what I'm actually looking at. At 1/32 scale, this thing has to be over 2 foot (old English measure) long. It's fantastic! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hendie Posted April 12, 2020 Author Share Posted April 12, 2020 14 hours ago, JeroenS said: I think "door open" will give it a bit of extra life. I think I agree 14 hours ago, CedB said: Open, I vote open, otherwise you could have glued the door in and wouldn't have needed the strengthening brass bit. Just sayin' I figured that out for myself... eventually Ced. 8 hours ago, Bigdave22014 said: What? you mean the sliding door doesn't work? How about 1/3rd open? Of course the sliding door works - I just chose to glue it in place! 2 hours ago, MR2Don said: This may not be a highly appreciated comment, but I find that the better quality builds at these scales are, the more the eye gets deceived into thinking it's looking at the real thing, and hence the slightest "imperfection" starts to look terrible. But, please, for God's sake, don't think I'm criticising what you're doing, I've just got to get my head round what I'm actually looking at. At 1/32 scale, this thing has to be over 2 foot (old English measure) long. It's fantastic! All comments are appreciated and all criticism is welcomed - it all helps me improve my game. You're right, it is about 2 foot long - probably about 3 and a half by the time I get the base and the case sorted out. 4 hours ago, TheBaron said: The compound effect here of so many quality details and compelling material surfaces is hard to comprehend (comprehendie? ) in a single viewing, it's just that good. I've seen large scale models ('bigatures') used in films with less realism than this when viewed in such proximity - this work is so strong it almost produces scale sounds to go with it. Bravo my friend. Thanks Tony, that's an incredible compliment and I really appreciate your thoughts. Today was another one of those spend ages doing things for not much visual progress, but things that need done one way or the other. I did start off with my 'quick win' for the day, though it took a bit of courage to actually do the work. The final position of the cabinets was marked out - after measuring and measuring and measuring as once they're glued in they're not moving. There is a cornicing fitted around the roof line so I used a 1mm brass angle taped to the top to get an even line - butting the cabinets up against it and still managed to mess up with the cabinet on the right. Thankfully it's not too noticeable when everything else is in place. It's on with superglue so I was too scared I'd cause more damage removing it so just left it in place. The cover strips went on without any issue though. Then the obligatory dry fit to boost morale. I also added the second heater control, though I've still to paint the knob (blob of PVA glue) red. The Golden Arrow frame is still not glued yet as I have a TRIANON BAR sign to fix to the front of it and I reckoned it would be easier to do that then fix the entire shebang in place. If I'm feeling brave at the next session I may try and lever it off and refit - but only if I'm feeling VERY brave. The bar is almost complete -apart from the opposite side paneling of course. I'm also waiting on some assorted tubing arriving so I can tear my hair out trying to make the hand and foot rails. THen there's the bench seats... then the lights... window rails... dammit, still lots and lots to do here. The majority of yesterday and today was spent cutting windows... lots and LOTS of little windows. Then another age was spent wicking diluted PVA into the joints. I did that once yesterday then several times today to make sure I got a good seal in there holding the windows in place. The last thing I want is for one of these blighters to pop out when I'm doing the final tidy up. Then I bit the bullet and glued the frames, well, four of them, to the main window itself. After that it was another of those 'how on earth am I going to do this?' half hours where I just sat there staring at the build. I needed to see the outside of the car to make sure there were no glue trails or leaks, but I also needed to be able to see inside in order to be able to apply the glue. After faffing about for a while I ended up with this ridiculous arrangement - precariously leaning the car over about 45° so I could apply glue, then tilt it back upright so I could check outside that all was well. So far so good... After the 4th window I'd had enough for the day - my nerves were shot so I'm taking a rest for the evening. Overall, I'd say I made pretty good progress over the weekend, but it's back to stay at home to work tomorrow so I dare say things will slow down a little. 12 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete in Lincs Posted April 13, 2020 Share Posted April 13, 2020 6 hours ago, hendie said: but it's back to stay at home to work tomorrow so I dare say things will slow down a little. Ha! We've got a bank holiday Monday so we can, erm, stay at home, Drat! Nice windows and I like the 'tilt idea.' 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CedB Posted April 13, 2020 Share Posted April 13, 2020 More stunning stuff hendie - it really is coming together 7 hours ago, hendie said: If I'm feeling brave at the next session I may try and lever it off and refit - but only if I'm feeling VERY brave. How about trying to wick some CA debonder underneath first and gently prising it off? The thought of any cracking noises… Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandy Posted April 14, 2020 Share Posted April 14, 2020 Slow and steady is definitely the right approach here Hendie. It's not like there's a time restraint to work to! Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hendie Posted April 17, 2020 Author Share Posted April 17, 2020 On 4/13/2020 at 1:42 AM, Pete in Lincs said: Ha! We've got a bank holiday Monday so we can, erm, stay at home, Drat! Nice windows and I like the 'tilt idea.' at least you didn't say 'nice tilts'! On 4/13/2020 at 2:40 AM, CedB said: More stunning stuff hendie - it really is coming together How about trying to wick some CA debonder underneath first and gently prising it off? The thought of any cracking noises… Thanks Ced - and yet more thanks for prompting me to attack that out of whack cabinet On 4/14/2020 at 1:34 PM, limeypilot said: Slow and steady is definitely the right approach here Hendie. It's not like there's a time restraint to work to! Ian Slow I'm good at, steady, not so much. I know there's no actual deadline, but six years is dragging things out a bit isn't it? After Ced's thoughtful prompting I decided I couldn't live with the wall cabinet being out of whack so with heart in one hand, and a chisel bladed knife in the other I cautiously wiggled the chisel blade down the back of the cabinet. A slight crack was heard as the superglue gave way and I just had to repeat the operation along the length of the cabinet. Once released, I cleaned it up and with a bit more care this time, stuck it back in place. There... much better now. During multiple sessions this week, mainly lunchtimes, I got all the windows sorted out. 44 little panes combined to make one big pain but at least the job is done now. The small panes were cut from 0.25 mm thick clear styrene sheet and the large panes were cut from Acrylic sheet - 1mm thick I believe. (and just realized that I mentioned all this in my last few posts!) Anyhoos - here they are from the inside and from the outside (without clamps!). I still need to send the window cleaner in at some point. The opposite side was a lot easier to do since it wasn't attached to the chassis. though I did attach it to get a sense of what this is going to look like one day... One of the windows was a bit tight and as I was fitting it the paint cracked and started to lift. Once my little panic attack had subsided I decided the best thing to so was to press the paint gently back in place and then applied some diluted PVA to hold the flakes in place. A bit annoying but not the end of the world. I like this shot - it really makes me feel like the end of this build is within reach, and gives a great sense of what Pegasus is all about. Then it was back to reality! One of the more challenging portions of this build are the hand and foot rails that adorn the bar. Like everything else in this build, I hadn't given it much thought until it was time to attack it - I'm just making this stuff up as I go along you know. The hand rail and foot rails need to follow the curvature of the bar itself, and maintain a constant offset from the bar, otherwise it's going to look all cattywampus innit? I had ordered a bunch of materials to (hopefully) be able to try and get these rails sorted out this week. Among the materials was a soft bendable (or so it was advertised) brass rod. To create the rail I drew around the bar top then stuck a bunch of spacers offset by 2mm which is the gap I want to maintain. The bendable brass was certainly bendable - a bit too bendable to be honest. This was my first attempt Not too shabby but I was annoyed by the small kink seen on the left side just as it transition into that large curve around the front of the bar. I've tried rolling it and a bunch of other stuff but can't seem to get rid of the kink. It doesn't look too far out when just laid against the bar. There is a certain springiness to the brass which would would allow me to pull/push into alignment as it's fitted But it still annoyed me so I made one in aluminum. This one seems better - the curves flow more fluently. However I'm not sure how the aluminum will take the Alclad chrome paint. I know that I can get a really nice chrome finish spraying the Alclad directly onto brass, but never tried it on aluminum... time to try it out I guess. Shown here are the 4 tools I used to obtain the different curvatures -yes, really, those are what I used! As I was pondering all this stuff over, I had another realization - the bar was pretty flimsy. Now, I made this bar way back early on in the project and it's sat around and I've never really given it much thought -but now... if I am fitting rails to the front, the surface I am going to be fixing to needs a bit of rigidity and some strength behind it. I had used thin styrene sheet to get the curvature and that would never stand up to my usual clumsiness when fitting the rails. I considered gluing strengthening panels in behind, but it was awkward and wouldn't work on the tight curves. Then I remembered a solution I had used before - I mixed up some resin and just poured it in where I was going to need support. It's not the prettiest solution but it works. Sometimes that's all you need to do. I thought the rails were going to be the hard part - until I realized that the rails need to be held in place by stanchions or whatever they're called. 5 on the handrail and 10 on the foot rail (5 to the bar and 5 to the floor). I spent a couple of nights thinking about this while going to sleep and ended up ordering a bunch of stuff off the web to try out - then thought "Numptie!' - I have a lathe. I should be able to do this myself. After a few false starts and design iterations I had something that I think is going to work All I had to do was make at least 15 exactly the same. Actually it wasn't that difficult once I had the first one worked out. The two empties stuck in the styrene square were first generation. The one with the brass rod sticking out is the final version. 2.75mm in diameter, a metric baw hair thick, with chamfer on the edge, and a 0.8mm hole through the center. I threaded them all onto a rod for ease of painting, then thought -aha! I can solder these in place and just cut the rod to length - but I'm not convinced that's the way to go just yet Due to the curvature of the bar - these are all going to enter the bar at different angles - and they still have to be attached to the rails yet. I need to get the holes in the bar to line up with the (still to be drilled) holes in the rails, taking the offset into account... I'm off for a lie down while I try to think this one through. 12 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeroenS Posted April 18, 2020 Share Posted April 18, 2020 This is all builds within builds within builds isn't it... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CedB Posted April 18, 2020 Share Posted April 18, 2020 Wow, what an update! I'm pleased that you sorted out the wonky cabinet Hendie - I know that feeling when we look at one of our completed models and just remember the bits that we're not happy with. What are we like eh? Good save on the cracked paint - it looks like an 'invisible mend' to me. The rails? More amazing stuff (and tools!) but what, please, is "a metric baw hair thick"? Loving the micro-engineering on the stanchions and can't wait to see them fitted Awesome 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandy Posted April 18, 2020 Share Posted April 18, 2020 I like that rail! So let me get this straight...you're going to solder the mounts to the rail, with a pin through the middle to attach to the bar? Sleep well... Ian 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete in Lincs Posted April 18, 2020 Share Posted April 18, 2020 6 hours ago, hendie said: Then it was back to reality! Which seems to be mostly overrated. 8 minutes ago, CedB said: but what, please, is "a metric baw hair thick"? I Googled it, Slightly less than a smidgen. Nice update, Hendie. The old 'pour resin into the back of the bar' trick eh? fiendish. I hope the lie down works. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hendie Posted April 18, 2020 Author Share Posted April 18, 2020 12 hours ago, JeroenS said: This is all builds within builds within builds isn't it... It is - though sometimes those builds feel a bit more like this 11 hours ago, CedB said: Wow, what an update! I'm pleased that you sorted out the wonky cabinet Hendie - I know that feeling when we look at one of our completed models and just remember the bits that we're not happy with. What are we like eh? Good save on the cracked paint - it looks like an 'invisible mend' to me. The rails? More amazing stuff (and tools!) but what, please, is "a metric baw hair thick"? Loving the micro-engineering on the stanchions and can't wait to see them fitted Awesome Sorry Ced, I should have stuck to the internationally accepted unit of measurement, the gnat's baw hair 11 hours ago, limeypilot said: I like that rail! So let me get this straight...you're going to solder the mounts to the rail, with a pin through the middle to attach to the bar? Sleep well... Ian ehrrrrrrrr... let me get back to you on that one Ian. That was the original plan but reality has since crept into play 11 hours ago, Pete in Lincs said: Which seems to be mostly overrated. I Googled it, Slightly less than a smidgen. Nice update, Hendie. The old 'pour resin into the back of the bar' trick eh? fiendish. I hope the lie down works. The lie down worked - at least until I had to get back up again Pete. A morning of frustration has ensued though each frustration exercise has allowed me to glean a little bit of information and I think i am getting close to a solution. Or maybe just an illusion. An illusion will work... won't it? 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete in Lincs Posted April 18, 2020 Share Posted April 18, 2020 1 hour ago, hendie said: An illusion will work... won't it? Might be better to see a Doctor.....? Or try a longer lie down 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hendie Posted April 18, 2020 Author Share Posted April 18, 2020 good afternoon fellows I bring news. Plan B worked. Plan A involved meticulous planning (so was therefore doomed to failure), drilling, soldering, lathe work, more drilling and then I couldn't get the darned thing assembled together... but it did point me to Plan B so it wasn't all in vain. The constituent parts of Plan A (& Plan B ) are shown below: A section of hand/foot rail. A section of tube slid over the rail, and a length of brass rod as the stand-off. But first things first, I had to address the thickness of the brass tube. It was way over scale so took a journey via the lathe to get turned down - shown here a small portion turned down, and with the "hand rail" inserted The original plan was to drill a hole in the tube, insert the brass rod, solder it up, then remove the rod sticking through on the inside of the tube by sticking it back on the lathe and drilling it out. That actually worked very well - surprisingly well. I was convinced something would break, but no. However I could not get the hand rail down the inside of the tube afterwards - a small sliver of solder had worked it's way inside and my drill bit was just a fraction too small to completely clear out the inside of the tube. So the question was how could I solder it without getting solder on the inside? Aluminum! I had some aluminum rod that was a nice slip fit inside the brass tube, and since solder doesn't like aluminum, I figured that if I soldered the brass with the aluminum inside, then it might keep the solder from flowing inside. and guess what? It worked! A quick clean up of the solder on the outside, trim the tube down in length and it slipped nicely over the hand rail and could be slid from one end to the other end of the rail without jamming on the curves. The first one is shown here - this was a highly motivating moment - there was now a chance I could do this! The tube/rod arrangement was surprisingly sturdy given that the wall thickness of the tube was probably less that .25mm, so there wasn't a whole lot of area for the solder to get hold of. But it worked and that was all that mattered. All 6 stand-offs were made and slid on to the rail. They were then taped in place so I could stare at this for a while and try to figure out how to assemble it. This could be awkward. In preparation for the big assemble, I fitted the chromed back plates. Even just drilling that bar front was nerve racking - one slip and I'd have to start al over again from scratch and build another bar. I'm really glad I added the resin reinforcement yesterday as that really made a difference handling and working on the bar. I had a couple of false starts trying to assemble all the bits. Initially I had the bar sitting upright as shown here and tried to insert each of the little rods into it's associated hole. It was like trying to herd cats. Gravity had a better grip on those rods than I had. Then I laid the bar down on its back and used gravity to assist in aligning the rods with the holes. By gently lowering the rail from above I could guide each of the rods into its mating back plate. The hand rail was not centered on the bar at first (no surprise there then), but there was just enough wiggle room in the rail/tube interface to allow me to gently shuffle the rail along until it was centered Obligatory dry fit/Mojo booster I'm very pleased with that and a bit overwhelmed by the fact that it worked so easily. I do have one problem facing me though - the rails and all the fittings need to be chromed. While the assembly of all the components isn't terribly difficult it does take a fair bit of handling, and Alclad chrome just will not stand up to that handling. In addition, Alclad chrome needs a clear gloss coating to protect it. If I chrome the rails and clear coat before assembly, I'll lose the ability to be able to slide the rail into position through the tubes - yes, the tolerances are that tight. That means it is looking very much like I shall need to assemble the hand rail and the bar, then chrome the handrail is situ - trying very hard not to get it on any other parts of the bar. I think I need another lie down. The foot rail will be a lot easier to position and secure, but that's a job for another day. 15 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBaron Posted April 18, 2020 Share Posted April 18, 2020 21 hours ago, hendie said: I know that I can get a really nice chrome finish spraying the Alclad directly onto brass, but never tried it on aluminum... time to try it out I guess. Experiment is all. With Alclad doubly-so! 😁 21 hours ago, hendie said: Then I remembered a solution I had used before - Direct and effective - one might almost say 'hendesque'... 21 hours ago, hendie said: spent a couple of nights thinking about this while going to sleep That hypnagogic state is one of the most creatively productive in my experience. Many times in life a realization has sprung forth from hidden syntheses at work in the subconscious. 21 hours ago, hendie said: Due to the curvature of the bar - these are all going to enter the bar at different angles - and they still have to be attached to the rails yet. Those stanchions are simply state of the art metalwork at this scale Alan. Absolutely gorgeous. (And of course time will yield a solution to affixing them). 👏 Adenda: we must have posted simultaneously so my last point is now joyously moot, as they say. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigdave22014 Posted April 19, 2020 Share Posted April 19, 2020 9 hours ago, hendie said: If I chrome the rails and clear coat before assembly, I'll lose the ability to be able to slide the rail into position through the tubes - yes, the tolerances are that tight. That means it is looking very much like I shall need to assemble the hand rail and the bar, then chrome the handrail is situ - trying very hard not to get it on any other parts of the bar. I think I need another lie down. Why not put masking tape on the bar before fitting the rail? Just make holes where the pins will go through. Fit the rails. Paint. Varnish. Remove tape when everything has hardened off. Although, given your abilities so far I'm surprised you're not electroplating your chrome fittings yet 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandy Posted April 19, 2020 Share Posted April 19, 2020 Rather than masking tape, I'd use paper, with a piece of tape to hold it in place top and bottom. I seem to remember that the bar front is a big wood decal! You could make the holes small enough for the pins only, and push the mounts against it, then when done, gently ease the mounts forward very slightly to remove the paper masking. Just my tuppence ha'p'orth. Ian 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CedB Posted April 19, 2020 Share Posted April 19, 2020 10 hours ago, hendie said: I'm very pleased with that… …and so you should be - marvellous. Nervous suggestion: How about not using Alclad? Would a Molotow chrome pen, possibly 'decanted', be tougher? 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bentwaters81tfw Posted April 19, 2020 Share Posted April 19, 2020 2 hours ago, CedB said: …and so you should be - marvellous. Nervous suggestion: How about not using Alclad? Would a Molotow chrome pen, possibly 'decanted', be tougher? That was my thought. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hendie Posted April 19, 2020 Author Share Posted April 19, 2020 16 hours ago, TheBaron said: Experiment is all. With Alclad doubly-so! 😁 news update: It didn't work so well spraying directly onto aluminum - it is incredibly difficult to see the one silver color on the other silver color and you either end up with either not enough coverage or overloading it - then it doesn't look like chrome anymore. It's much easier spraying directly onto brass where you can definitely see the chrome start to build up over the brass yellow tinge. 16 hours ago, TheBaron said: That hypnagogic state is one of the most creatively productive in my experience. Many times in life a realization has sprung forth from hidden syntheses at work in the subconscious. It probably falls as number 3 on my list. No's 1 & 2 being (in no particular order) when having a fag break, or while sitting in trap 1 (hypnalogic?) 6 hours ago, Bigdave22014 said: Why not put masking tape on the bar before fitting the rail? Just make holes where the pins will go through. Fit the rails. Paint. Varnish. Remove tape when everything has hardened off. methinks that shall be the path I am following, sort of 6 hours ago, Bigdave22014 said: Although, given your abilities so far I'm surprised you're not electroplating your chrome fittings yet 6 hours ago, limeypilot said: Rather than masking tape, I'd use paper, with a piece of tape to hold it in place top and bottom. I seem to remember that the bar front is a big wood decal! You could make the holes small enough for the pins only, and push the mounts against it, then when done, gently ease the mounts forward very slightly to remove the paper masking. Just my tuppence ha'p'orth. Ian You spotted the problem Ian. That wood decal. I can't, or rather, won't put tape directly on the decal surface, but I think there is a way I can mask it keeping the tape all at the rear of the bar. I'll have enough masking that I can bunch it all together and secure it at the back of the bar - much simpler that way. 6 hours ago, CedB said: …and so you should be - marvellous. Nervous suggestion: How about not using Alclad? Would a Molotow chrome pen, possibly 'decanted', be tougher? 4 hours ago, bentwaters81tfw said: That was my thought. While I'm not a big fan of alclad, it does provide a very realistic finish. At this stage in the proceedings I'm not sure i want to experiment with finishes other than those I am used to. I was just reading the other day that someone was very disappointed with the durability of the Molotow finish. now if only I didn't have to cut the grass today 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hendie Posted April 19, 2020 Author Share Posted April 19, 2020 I'll apologize before I begin and just let you know that there will be a lot of photos in this post. That's because today I reached one of those milestone thingies. Yup. A milestone. A great step forward and the completion (almost) of something that I had been dreading for months. As it turned out, it didn't go too badly at all. In fact I have to say it went quite well - way better than I had anticipated. First thing this morning I spent some more time on the lathe turning these little blighters. From the left we have a wall mounting boss, followed by a coupe of ferrules, then an assembled ferrule and boss, and on the extreme right we have one test fitted to the end of a piece of scrap rod. When fitted, these will be at each end of the foot and hand rails and mount to the adjacent panel. Like so Things were beginning to get serious now and I was getting dangerously close to have to fit the bar. In preparation, I made this little throwaway jig which allowed me to place the mounting hole in the floor at the correct position relative to the foot rail mounting point on the bar itself. There is a small pin which inserts into the bar fitting and positions the drill perpendicular to the bar front. In theory all three holes should align vertically. In theory that is. Theories are wonderful things aren't they? More heart pounding moments followed as I drilled into the floor. My first position was slightly too far out from the bar, but thankfully I had only used a 0.5mm drill so I could reposition closer as the holes still had to be opened out. Once drilled and opened out, the chrome mounting plates were fitted. Nice easy job, and you can hardly see them against the carpet. Another rail was made using the same jig as before. This one was a bit easier to manufacture and I seem to be getting quite good at these now. The stanchions were all soldered up this morning and chromed - the rail itself is still brass at this point as I wanted to get the stanchions in position on the rail here and then add a drop of superglue to each one to hold it all together so things stayed in one place when I removed the rail for painting. A little bit of tweaking will be required to get the height correct but overall it's looking good so far. Thankfully the superglue held when I removed the assembly so it got a covering of alclad chrome, followed by a clear coat of Mr. Color clear - which I find stands up to handling much better than alclad's clear coats. ooohhh, really getting serious now. Much measuring and double checking of the offset from the bar 'cos if I glued this in the wrong place there was no going back. Well, there was but it was going to be a bugger to have to redo it all. The hand rail was fitted and I used my favorite of late - diluted PVA wicked into the hole with the stand-off rods. I applied that a few times to make sure it was going to hold. It dries nice and clear and doesn't affect the chrome finish. At least, not in the same way my grubby fingers do. The bar was then masked up using slices of kitchen roll and a multitude of masking tape. Scary moments ahead... The hand rail was then alclad chromed, followed by a clear coat. I should probably have waited longer before clear coating, but I was getting a little bit excited at all this construction going on adn wanted to see if I could finish it before the weekend ended. Otherwise I'd be tempted to skive off work to get it done. Wait ! what have we got here then ? A milestone that's what! The bar top is only laid on top at the moment which is why it's still all a bit skewy. It'll flatten out when glued in place (says he with confidence!). We have hand rails and foot rails!!! Yippee!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I cheated a little bit - because the vertical rods coming from the floor really hold the foot rail in place pretty well, I used short lengths of rod in the bar itself for the horizontals and just pulled them out until they touched the foot rail. Works for me. A drop of glue on the end will hold them nicely in position. Alignment isn't too bad at all. The curve at the extreme left on the foot rail is a little bit wide but I may be able to tweak that slightly when I finally add the glue at the next session. For hand made though, I'm pretty pleased with this. and more shots just because I took them (and I'm feeling pretty pleased with myself at this moment) - maybe you can tell! It's all coming together quite nicely. These last two weekends have been very productive. This is a BIG step forward - and I'm hoping to make just as much progress over the next few weeks as a lot of the more difficult stuff is now done. and there we have it folks. The bar is almost complete. All that's left is to glue everything in place. No doubt there will be a few heart stopping moments as I do that - careful selection of glues methinks. There's so many moving parts here that I will need some level of adjustment as things go in. I think I'll have a whisky now thanks 15 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeroenS Posted April 20, 2020 Share Posted April 20, 2020 Congratulations! What a result! That looks totally believable. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CedB Posted April 20, 2020 Share Posted April 20, 2020 Stunning hendie - amazing job 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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