Cheshiretaurus Posted January 1, 2015 Author Share Posted January 1, 2015 (edited) Happy new year everyone.Dear Airfix, When you drew the decal sheet for this kit did you check it actually fitted the model or did you just email it to the printer then go to the pub cos it was poets day?Best regards Cheshire THad to join up the ill fitting bits of the arrow underneath with white paint, and the tail decal doesn't really fit the tail. trimming off at the trailing edge isnt really a problem and I'd have preferred too much decal that too little but they could have checked it would reach the top of the tail too, now I need to match up some blue paint grr. P.S. What blue would match and do feel free to list any other manufactures paint as well as from your own excellent (except for the Chinese import fiasco but lets not mention that) Humbrol range.Gripe mode - OFF Edited January 1, 2015 by Cheshiretaurus 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomoshenko Posted January 1, 2015 Share Posted January 1, 2015 Watching this with interest. Never really got on with electrics, but some interesting links and inspiration here. Lovely gloss finish too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pawel Szczudlyk Posted January 1, 2015 Share Posted January 1, 2015 stunnig work do you have any drawing how to connect led with a battery plus how to make on off swith? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geedubelyer Posted January 1, 2015 Share Posted January 1, 2015 Hmmm, that short decal is a pain Mark. I'm optimistic that you'll discover the correct shade of blue to match it though. Sorry I can't offer any advice on that front. The contrast of the decal colours against the red really brings the model to life though does n't it? Good luck and keep up the good work. Cheers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cheshiretaurus Posted January 1, 2015 Author Share Posted January 1, 2015 do you have any drawing how to connect led with a battery plus how to make on off swith? Its a very simple circuit similar to a basic battery and light bulb circuit. except a resistor is needed to restrict the current flowing through the LED and the LED has a + positive (anode) and a - negative (cathode) side. Found this on a Wikipedia article LED circuit A switch can be put anywhere in the circuit but for practicality it is best put on one of the battery leads. The resistor can be omitted if the supply voltage is equal or less than the voltage of the LED, at the moment I'm running a 3V LED from a 13.8V supply so the resistor is a must. connecting the LED directly to too high a voltage will damage the LED and render it unusable. (not good when the LED is permanently embedded in your model and so can't be replaced) The value of the resistor depends on the voltage difference between that of the power supply and that required by the LED divided by the current required by the LED. I can help you calculating this if you want. For the power supply I'm running on a the moment I need a 1K ohm resistor (13.8 volt - 3volt =10.8volt, This LED can take 20 milliamps but 10milliamps would be bright enough so 10.8volt / 0.01amps = 1080 Ohm (1K ohm) 1K resisor (colour bands Brown-Black-Red) LED, long lead is the + one (anode) Once complete I'm going to run it from a 3V battery (so wont need the resistor) and have found some button cell holders on eBay with a built in switch, takes a CR2032 battery. Still waiting for the batteries to be delivered. just need to work out how to fit it into a model base now. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cheshiretaurus Posted January 1, 2015 Author Share Posted January 1, 2015 Hmmm, that short decal is a pain Mark. I'm optimistic that you'll discover the correct shade of blue to match it though. Sorry I can't offer any advice on that front. The contrast of the decal colours against the red really brings the model to life though does n't it? Good luck and keep up the good work. Cheers. A bit of Tamya XF8 flat blue seemed to work, slightly darker but not by much and should blend in after a gloss cote and a bit of X2 white on the white bits. Should make interesting when I do apply that gloss cote as it will be enamel gloss over a few acrylic bits or is it ok that way round might need to do a test bit first. Just realised why the batteries haven't been delivered, because I haven't ordered them yet. thought I'd done it at the same time as ordering the holders, obviously not. Now defiantly definitely ordered. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fritag Posted January 2, 2015 Share Posted January 2, 2015 Now defiantly ordered. Ooo - you foot-stamper you - do love the autocorrect...... Looks like you've got a fantastic, smooth red finish there Mark. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cheshiretaurus Posted January 2, 2015 Author Share Posted January 2, 2015 Ah, well spotted! You lawyers spot every little detail. Sort of error that could loose a case. Now manually corrected. Quite pleased with that gloss myself as it was a step forward from the usual instant orange peel that I would always achieve. Still need a bit more practice as its not yet the glass smooth finish that the car modellers seem to be able to get. think the Airfix surface doesn't quite help as they have moulded some texture into the surface and that shows through still, areas that needed sanding and were then polished before painting have given a smoother paint finish. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cheshiretaurus Posted January 11, 2015 Author Share Posted January 11, 2015 Nearly there After an interesting week working away flying in and out of Lorient in France sharing the circuit there with a few interesting aircraft types Breguet Atlantiques, Grumman Hawkeyes and some noisy Dassault Rafales. But still looking forward to some modelling on my return. Only managed to snap one pic whilst waiting for this Atlantique to depart ahead of us. The weekend has been spent spraying a couple of coats of Humbrol gloss clearcote, Then remembered I still hadn't chosen a serial no for this so XX323 was chosen at random, duly applied and given another coat of clear cote. Whilst away I decided the Airfix pitot was a bit basic so I ordered the master models brass pitot, this was waiting for me on my return. The probe was given a coat of gloss black enamel then Alcad airframe aluminium, this left it with a nice polished steel appearance and was CA'd into place. lastly the clear nose light cover was glued on. Think the Hawk itself is now finished just need to start working on the stand for it. Nearly forgot to mention I made a very basic ejection seat apron for the rear seat from a bit of self adhesive aluminium tape inspired by Fritag in his JP build and painted green. CT 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Col. Posted January 11, 2015 Share Posted January 11, 2015 Looking good CT. I take it you are going for a suitably dramatic pose for this one on its stand? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fritag Posted January 12, 2015 Share Posted January 12, 2015 Lovely finish CT. The Humbrol gloss clearcoat must have gone on well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cheshiretaurus Posted January 12, 2015 Author Share Posted January 12, 2015 Looking good CT. I take it you are going for a suitably dramatic pose for this one on its stand? Had in mind a bit of a climbing turn for it, Lovely finish CT. The Humbrol gloss clearcoat must have gone on well. Well thinned with white spirit at about 2 parts thinner to 1 clearcote, and sprayed at 15PSI getting plenty of clearcote on nearly to the point of it running. Watched a Paul Budzik video on spraying primer where he explains what overspray really is at the edge of the spray pattern where there is too much air and not enough paint, so the air is drying the paint at the edge too early and matting the gloss. Noticed this happening with the red too, so you end up chasing the dry matted bit across the model. until there is plenty of paint on. Going to invest in a 0.5mm needle and nozzle for the Neo and see how that goes for future gloss applications. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Viking Posted January 12, 2015 Share Posted January 12, 2015 Just caught up with this, what a brillaint idea! It's looking great. Cheers John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cheshiretaurus Posted January 19, 2015 Author Share Posted January 19, 2015 Almost there, Although too late for this model I invested in a 0.5mm needle, nozzle and aircap for the neo. Tried some of the left over paint on a scrap Novo Spitfire fuselage that was primed with a Tamiya rattler of surface primer, then 2 coats of paint making the second coat a wet coat. gave quite a good gloss with no premature drying this time. Think I'm defiantly on the right tracks of getting a good gloss finish on future builds.White seal on the canopy was made from 0.25mm white decal stripes from fantasy printshop. A hole was drilled into the airfix 'thimble' jet pipe part for the wires to go through. The jetpipe was then mounted on some 5mm acrylic tube that had been bent into shape with a heat gun and given a coat of Alclad chrome over a gloss black undercoat. Jet pipe and mount was glued onto the model with CA, Although it doesnt look like it the rim of the jetpipe has been painted HU56 Aluminium.I've connected it to a 3V battery and mounted it on a bit of scrap wood for the moment until I get a proper base for it, Something to get at Huddersfield I think.Gloss black stand or wooden stand ? 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geedubelyer Posted January 19, 2015 Share Posted January 19, 2015 Looking superb Mark. Everything looks just right. Good job. Gloss black stand on wooden stand ? Hmmm, good question. I think I'd need to see the two options side by side to make that call. My gut feeling says gloss black but wood could look equally good. Interesting that you chose to paint the acrylic. Was it originally clear? If so, was it to disguise the wiring or was it purely personal preference? Either way the chrome does look very cool. Cheers. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cheshiretaurus Posted January 19, 2015 Author Share Posted January 19, 2015 Interesting that you chose to paint the acrylic. Was it originally clear? If so, was it to disguise the wiring or was it purely personal preference? It was originally clear, yes it was to hide the wires, had ideas of it being black but only in the last day or so I decided to finish it in chrome. there wasn't much reasoning behind it, just imagined it better chrome. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomoshenko Posted January 19, 2015 Share Posted January 19, 2015 Looks really good. Like the pose and it looks like you've cracked the gloss paint. That said the finish looks damn fine anyhow. My preference would be for a gloss black base as it will contrast nicely with the chrome and the red; but as Goodubelyer says, wood would look good too. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cheshiretaurus Posted January 19, 2015 Author Share Posted January 19, 2015 Black seems better in my mind too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fritag Posted January 19, 2015 Share Posted January 19, 2015 (edited) That is superb CT. As good a gloss red finish as I've seen - and the white decals strips around the canopy look fantastic. I don't usually like the red arrows scheme on 1/72 Hawks as they can look quite toy like. But yours doesn't - it looks great. Definitely a black base me thinks..... Looks like I'm gonna have to copy you (again) by getting a 0.5mm nozzle for the Neo........ Edited January 19, 2015 by Fritag 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
perdu Posted January 19, 2015 Share Posted January 19, 2015 Put me on the bus to the shinyasbuggeryglossyblack team HQ too please Mark That looks fabuloso mate 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cheshiretaurus Posted January 19, 2015 Author Share Posted January 19, 2015 Looks like I'm gonna have to copy you (again) by getting a 0.5mm nozzle for the Neo........ I got them from these fellas, not sure if it was the best deal or not but its where I got the neo from in the first place. https://airbrushes.com/parts_info.php?products_id=21056&osCsid=66b21201acb761167aac4a3f59301c95 You will need 3 parts IWN-1402 IWN-0802 IWN-0752 parts 2 3 & 11 on the diagram. Came to just over £30 including postage. Edit :- Actually my memory is serving me very badly it seems I actually got the neo originally from these who also have an even better deal on a needle & nozzle set.http://www.air-craft.net/acatalog/Neo-for-Iwata-0.5mm-Nozzle-Set.html#aIWN_2d0802_2d0752_2d1402 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fritag Posted January 20, 2015 Share Posted January 20, 2015 Actually my memory is serving me very badly it seems I actually got the neo originally from these who also have an even better deal on a needle & nozzle set.http://www.air-craft.net/acatalog/Neo-for-Iwata-0.5mm-Nozzle-Set.html#aIWN_2d0802_2d0752_2d1402 And with a few clicks of the keyboard the deal was done. Ta CT. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Col. Posted January 20, 2015 Share Posted January 20, 2015 I say go for the wood base. Both Hawk and stand look grand to me. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cheshiretaurus Posted February 16, 2015 Author Share Posted February 16, 2015 Been looking for bases for the last few weeks, Bolton show had none, but at yesterdays visit to Huddersfield I bagged 6. Only cost £5 for them all too. Yeah, I count 5 in that image too, took the pic after I started butchering one of them for the Hawk I'm going to mount the rod at one corner so the Hawk sits centrally over the base. Cut 38mm hole with the biggest hole cutter I have, just slightly too small for the battery box so a bit more was drilled out at one end as well as another hole cut all the way through for the wires. The tip of the hole cutter went all the way through in cutting the main bit deep enough for the box, I had anticipated this would happen. Once done the unwanted hole was filled with the sawdust and CA. and the other end filled with CA & bicarb then sanded flush. Ive started preparing the surface of the stand for the gloss black with coats of sanding sealer followed by sanding in between. Got some filler primer (the yellow stuff) from Halfords today. Going to give that a spray before I go to bed tonight. Plan is to get it nice and smooth for a shiny glossy finish. CT 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fritag Posted February 17, 2015 Share Posted February 17, 2015 Darn it. I was going to look for bases at Huddersfield but forgot. Mind you - there probably wasn't any left after you'd bagged em all I spent all of £2.99 at the show.......on a silicone glue/putty tray. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now