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Mike

Hawker Typhoon Radiator & Mask Sets (for 1:24 Airfix)

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Hawker Typhoon Radiator & Mask Sets (for Airfix)
1:24 RB Productions


Airfix's new Typhoon has been very well received, and is an excellent model. Radu Brinzan has been quick off the mark to bring us some essential goodies to help us build a better Typhoon in the shape of a replacement for the slightly weak chin scoop mesh, and a set of masks.

Hawker Typhoon Radiators (RB-P24007)

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This set arrives in a small bag with card backing, a small instruction sheet, and folded-over card header. Inside is a sheet of very fine Photo-Etch (PE) metal that has been etched from stainless steel, and has the correct honeycomb mesh etched in. It is a straight-forward lamination job, which involves you removing the parts from the fret and gluing them over the existing detail, with no cutting involved. Job done!

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Taking care with the glue will be necessary to avoid flooding the delicate mesh etched through the parts, and of course you'll also have to protect them from paint, as they're usually bare metal to improve heat transfer, so perhaps a coat of matt varnish will give it a more subdued and representative look. Painting the kit parts black before you install the PE would be an idea too, and will show up the PE nicely.

Superbly etched, and a huge improvement over the kit parts, so well worth the additional cost.

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Hawker Typhoon Canopy Masks (RB-M24001)

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Not everyone likes masking canopies, and if that sounds like you, this will ease your furrowed brow. Inside the flat-pack is a sheet of pre-cut apparently grey masking material that is actually clear/translucent. An instruction sheet is also included, and walks you through the application process step-by-step. The material will show up lighter if there is air caught under it, so you can tell where you need to burnish the edges down.

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The main canopy is masked with a U-shaped curve that is placed next to the framing, and the top-most part of the canopy can be covered by the supplied centre part with a few dabs of masking fluid, or you can use masking fluid exclusively. It's entirely up to you. The windscreen is three small flat sections, so should be very easy to apply, and once you're happy it is all burnished down, you can paint the canopy with lightly applied coats of paint to avoid seepage or a thick lip of paint building up against the edge of the mask. The masks are compatible with acrylic, enamel and even lacquer paints, so you just have to remember not to flood the paint in too quickly.

Another winner.

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Both highly recommended.

Review sample courtesy of
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