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A 1/72nd C-17 Globemaster III - the hard way


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A question on your scribing technique (again!). Do you pencil in the lines you are going to scribe prior to making the groove?

I don't tend to draw the line in as such, but I do often make a small pencil mark at either end of the line. When doing wings etc, I tend to do one surface first, then measure from that to do the other - that way if a line is out somewhere on the initial surface, it least it'll be out on the other too and won't look different! :winkgrin:

Tom

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Another productive day with the C-17 and I've now got the tail area finished off, complete with the installation of the rudder.

The kit's rudder was removed earlier in the build as I planned to have this posed at a deflected angle as often seen when the C-17 is powered down and at rest - I imagine a lack of hydraulic pressure or the like means the rudder hangs over, usually to the left.

The kit parts are rather basic so I decided rather than spend hours trying to bring them up to scratch it'd be far easier to scratch-build my own rudder assembly. The real aircraft's is a complex double hinge set up, with upper and lower portions of the rudder split horizontally approximately halfway along its vertical length. The picture below shows the original kit parts with the new home-made rudder shapes cut from plastic card:

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The rudders are a basic aerofoil shape so this was replicated by some old off-cuts of sprue being cut to shape and glued to the leading edge where the hingeline is located. The sprue is then sandwiched between the two layers of plastic card, with the openings at the top and bottom covered with more plastic card cut, glued and sanded to shape. The picture below gives some idea of the process:

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The end produce looks like this:

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All very simple really, and only an hour or so's work.

They were then fixed to the fin, with the lower section posed at a greater angle as often seen on the real aircraft. I have also made the fairings above and below the stabiliser from plastic card and attached them - these were once again modelled on CAD drawings and the Revell kit:

DSC_0054_zpseqwhy7ro.jpg

And now, at last, I have a structurally complete C-17:

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It's taken a huge amount of time and effort to get this far (and I must say despite the head-scratching it's been great fun) and I can now put the filler and sandpaper way at last and concentrate on adding the final details before I can begin the painting process :)

Finishing off the gear bays will be the next task I think...

Tom

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We think alike Tom, I do exactly the same. Better to have equal inaccuracies if you have them!!!

It is a well-known axiom of model building that two equal inaccuracies cancel each other!

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Nice to see Combat Models can be beaten.

My Vac-form modelling took a major leap forward yesterday. I just secured a sheet of plate glass about 5 feet by 3 for sanding purposes.

Now I have a flat surface for large components.

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Nice to see Combat Models can be beaten.

My Vac-form modelling took a major leap forward yesterday. I just secured a sheet of plate glass about 5 feet by 3 for sanding purposes.

Now I have a flat surface for large components.

What on earth are you going to sand?

Excellent work Tom!

Trevor

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This man Tom is far too modest! I know Tom and his father, Rob very well, and both are excellent modeller's. So believe me when I say that Tom is a master when it comes to Vac forms. So, Tom, credit where credit's due.

Absolutely excellent build, and a pleasure to watch progressing month by month, and I am in the fortunate position to see it 'in the flesh' so to speak.

Larry.

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Superb workmanship! This is another topic that is bookmarked for that day when I tackle a vacuform kit. I've tried on several occasions, but always binned it before I finished. Of course, that was back in the 80s when vacuforms only *slightly* resembled a shapeless piece of plastic.

I dare say this C-17 is looking better then the injection kits I've seen. A triumph!

Cheers,

Bill

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This man Tom is far too modest! I know Tom and his father, Rob very well, and both are excellent modeller's. So believe me when I say that Tom is a master when it comes to Vac forms. So, Tom, credit where credit's due.

Absolutely excellent build, and a pleasure to watch progressing month by month, and I am in the fortunate position to see it 'in the flesh' so to speak.

Larry.

You're very kind Larry - and I still think it's time you took the plunge and tackled a vac! The old man has another of these kits in his stash and I'm sure could have his arm twisted and send it your way... go on... you know you want to! ;)

Great work and stunning results! As I have always said about Combat Models: "Company name and accurate description of the building process!"

You have really done a great job!

I've heard that said a few times with Combat's kits - and the description is not far wrong!

Superb workmanship! This is another topic that is bookmarked for that day when I tackle a vacuform kit. I've tried on several occasions, but always binned it before I finished. Of course, that was back in the 80s when vacuforms only *slightly* resembled a shapeless piece of plastic.

I dare say this C-17 is looking better then the injection kits I've seen. A triumph!

Cheers,

Bill

I think it's about time you took the plunge again, Bill! There's a non-injection moulded GB on the horizon and it'd be great if you could join us.

To be honest I'm not sure how much the quality of 'modern' vacs has improved that much - Dynavector, Aeroclub and Welsh aside there are some horrors out there - even relatively recent stuff - so choose wisely!

And thanks for the kind words and interest everyone :)

Tom

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Absolutely stunning work Tom, I think you've got this one beat.

Would love to be able to tackle a kit like this, but seeing all the work you've put into it, I'm scared to even try.

Are there any east vac kits to attempt? Something almost fool ( idiot) proof?

Matt

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Absolutely stunning work Tom, I think you've got this one beat.

Would love to be able to tackle a kit like this, but seeing all the work you've put into it, I'm scared to even try.

Are there any east vac kits to attempt? Something almost fool ( idiot) proof?

Matt

Matt:

While I am not Tom, I would try vacs from Falcon, Sierra Scale Models, Koster Aero Enterprises or Dynavector. Maybe start with one of Kosters conversions to get your feet wet.

Hub

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Absolutely stunning work Tom, I think you've got this one beat.

Would love to be able to tackle a kit like this, but seeing all the work you've put into it, I'm scared to even try.

Are there any east vac kits to attempt? Something almost fool ( idiot) proof?

Matt

Just buy a cheap one and practice. Doesn't matter if you mess up, you get used to the sanding and skills needed, like handling butt joints by measuring and making spars from card or sprue. If you think the parts lack rigidity, some card or strip to brace the interior can be added with liquid glue. Don't be tempted to use tube glue on them. My first effort was a Blackburn Ripon. It isn't perfect, but I got the hang of it. If you can do a short run kit like Pegasus, you can manage a vac. Sometimes you need to re-inforce areas from behind before cutting or sanding. It is better to cut details like windows when all the parts are on the backing sheet, as everything is stiffer and easier to measure and cut.

If the finished article goes together to your satisfaction, move on to something a little better. I bought two Contrail cheapies the other week to refine my techniques before tackling a couple of 1/32 beasts.

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Absolutely stunning work Tom, I think you've got this one beat.

Would love to be able to tackle a kit like this, but seeing all the work you've put into it, I'm scared to even try.

Are there any east vac kits to attempt? Something almost fool ( idiot) proof?

Matt

The advice from Hub and Bentwaters is spot on.

The best thing to do is to have a rummage through the bargain basement sections of kit stalls and you're likely to find a very cheap vac or two in there. Buy it, play with it. It may not even be a subject you have interest in, but it's learning the technique that matters.

Practice joining of the parts by lining the join with plastic card tabs, make bulkheads and spars etc. When you've got the idea you can venture onto a model you'd like to make a decent job of.

The best vacs out there have been mentioned by others - Welsh, Koster and Dynavector to name some go together as well as any injection moulded kit once out of the backing sheet and sanded to shape.

If you're new to vacforms avoid Combat - they'll put you off for life! Once you've mastered the craft though kits like this provide a huge amount of fun and you'll learn a whole host of new skills along the way to apply to any genre of model building.

Tom

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If you find old Rareplane vac kits, grab them! They are also among the best, eve the early ones. Their Victor kit is still the most accurate Victor, although today it's as rare as hen's teeth.

Edited by Sten Ekedahl
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