Bengalensis Posted November 8, 2014 Share Posted November 8, 2014 OK, I will try to pull myself together and bring this one home. It's the famous yellow submarine from the battle of Pepperland that was fought in 1968. The idea was to build a model of the real thing, with corrected details and weathering. I started this project in the 2012 using the reissued kit/toy from MPC that Round 2 had recently made available. It was the only thing I could find to use as a base, but when it arrived it was very much a toy thing in kit form, with wheels and a rubber powered propeller, probably designed for use in the bath tub... I would need considerably stronger acid than usual to be able to enjoy that... Nevertheless I started work in good mood and solved a few issues, but it soon stalled as I could not find a good source for the 16 pressure resistant round windows. The "kit" provides them in two different forms of decals that are not useful when building the real boat. I knew what I wanted, but couldn't find it, and then other things got in between, resin girls I think, and the project was sadly put aside. Eventually I got hold of the window material, but nothing happened. So here we are. I pulled the box from the shelf a few days ago to have a new look. There is much more work remaining than my memory said. Here are all the parts I discarded from the kit. Not the awful propeller that I needed to find a replacement for. I had filled in the holes in the bottom that were for the wheels and the hinges for the side hatches. The hatches were an awful fit in their openings and I never got round to fixing that. The four periscopes have been assembled, but they lack the same thing as the side windows; clear parts in a pressure resistant shape, i.e. domed, but also oval. I found a three bladed R/C boat propeller from Graupner that can be used after clean up and paint. I think it is much more like the real thing than what the kit provided. I never got round to do anything to it though. And here we have what I wanted for those domed windows. Eyes for toy animals, but of course I only need the glass part. Well, that's what's in the box of shame on the shelf. I will give it a new new try. 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JOCKNEY Posted November 9, 2014 Share Posted November 9, 2014 Hi Jörgen I think I can safely say we are unlikely to get another one of these in the Group Build ! Are you using the film to get details from ? Good luck with the build Cheers Pat 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bengalensis Posted November 9, 2014 Author Share Posted November 9, 2014 References for details are a bit difficult. I'm not sure the film version is perfectly accurate to the boat used in the real battle , but at least it should be quite close in general. I think... The first thing I had to do was to fit the two side hatches. As I mentioned their fit, unless you are satisfied to open them under water in the bath tub, leaves about everything to be desired. I added material in their openings and also extended the hatches themselves 2,5 mm at the bottom edge to give me something to work with. When filed to shape and fit they could finally be glued in place reasonably well. Then I block sanded the whole area to make everything smooth and level and rescribed them. The next task was to determine exactly where the windows (port holes?) should be placed. All references are a bit conflicting so I decided to work out a compromise trying to use the red lines from the decal sheet. I made a copy of the sheet and cut the strip for the left side out. It turned out to be identical to the right side, except of course that's mirrored, but good to know. I begun taping the strip in place, but it was immediately clear that I had to shorten it towards the front and extend it before the split at the rear. This is after moving the cut bits around. One of the two versions of decal window sets seems to be quite good in measurement, so I used those to get everything to line up. Then I drew the correct window sizes in AutoCAD and printed four sets with centre marks, taped them in place on both sides and drilled a 1 mm hole in each centre. I drilled each hole to 7,5 mm diameter with an electric drill, and it worked perfectly, much to my surprise. I thought it might the stupid action of the week, but not at all. Each hole was then somewhat more carefully enlarged to around 8 mm, checking the fit to the window parts. Next I need to sand both hull halves with finer grade paper before painting the edges and fitting the glass. Then I need to figure out some interior behind them. 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
palacefan Posted November 10, 2014 Share Posted November 10, 2014 I like this! Great work so far Jorgen, this will be a little gem when its finished 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nimrod54 Posted November 10, 2014 Share Posted November 10, 2014 Only problem with this build is that every time I look in on it I will have 'Yellow Submarine' going round in my head. Great work on the windows Jorgen. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bengalensis Posted November 12, 2014 Author Share Posted November 12, 2014 Thanks guys, glad you like it. Sorry about that tune sticking and going round. I have very different music on when building, but perhaps I should change to get in mood for this? I got to work on the periscopes with the Dremel and hollowed them out. I have some oval eyes that I plan to use as domed glass that will be sprayed with clear red. Here all the glass parts are fitted to the hull and sealed around the edges. I also started on the interior by cutting a piece of d32 pipe in two halves and roughly shaping them to the hull. I also glued ends pieces to them made from some scrap plastic. The real interior proved to be the easiest detail of all to find references of. The whole internet is littered with them. So I just took four images, printed them out in the right size and glued in place. Then I put four crew members in that you can just make out through the windows if you look carefully. Here the Solvaset is making its work on the decals so they are still a bit rough. No, I won't take this too seriously... I hope. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CliffB Posted November 13, 2014 Share Posted November 13, 2014 Some serious work here Jorgen, for such a fun subject - looking very good Cliff 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bengalensis Posted November 13, 2014 Author Share Posted November 13, 2014 Thanks a lot Cliff. It's a good feeling that this stalled project was brought to life again. I tacked the interior modules in place with CA, and then I took the big cartridge gun loaded with Sikaflex and run a good bead along the whole joints. There will be lot of sanding later and I don't want any dust creeping inside. It was crude, but effective. I think it's the first time I've used it in this kind of modelling... When that had cured for a while I could at last join the hull halves. It's a moment I've been waiting for. I also filled several different holes that were present in the joint line with Evergreen rod or sprue. I found a left over piece of oak that I cut a section of as a base. If I can find some suitable brass pieces as supports I think it could work. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdrianMF Posted November 13, 2014 Share Posted November 13, 2014 I love your interior and I hope it's visible through the portholes. Using the toy eyes is a stroke of lateral genius! Regards, Adrian 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bengalensis Posted November 15, 2014 Author Share Posted November 15, 2014 Thanks Adrian. The interior is quite visible and you can even see the crew better than I expected, if you search a little. It took a lot of sanding to clean up the hull joint line, but as the plastic is thick and without surface detail I didn't have to use any filler. I have also cleaned up the propeller quite well, despite the plastic not being very cooperative, and added a mounting peg. The railing along the tower needed the double number of posts, so that was done with Evergreen rod. And a look with the periscopes dry fitted. It's getting ready for some primer. When I started this build I had ideas about adding surface detail, but I'm not sure anymore. 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete in Lincs Posted November 15, 2014 Share Posted November 15, 2014 Fab! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bentwaters81tfw Posted November 15, 2014 Share Posted November 15, 2014 When I saw the 'eyes' and all that yellow plastic I had visions of a Minions version. It just cries out for it! Inspired work. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JOCKNEY Posted November 15, 2014 Share Posted November 15, 2014 Hi Jörgen Brilliantly Bonkers, this is superb, with the idea to the pictures inside simply inspired, keep up the good work. Cheers Pat 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jinxman Posted November 17, 2014 Share Posted November 17, 2014 Great stuff! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wimbledon99 Posted November 20, 2014 Share Posted November 20, 2014 Looks like fun - Gotta watch this to the end! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bengalensis Posted November 23, 2014 Author Share Posted November 23, 2014 Thanks for all your interest and support, it will help get this thing done. I have been thinking about the surface and it will probably still look like a bath tub toy no matter how I paint it, and also be difficult to weather if I don't do anything. So I cut a 1/100 scale 2x1 m steel plate template and yesterday I stocked up on some Dymo tape to use as self adhesive rulers. I guess I now have to start scribing, one of the modelling jobs I dislike... 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wellzy Posted November 23, 2014 Share Posted November 23, 2014 Looking very good but any thing but would not be you Les 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
louiex2 Posted November 23, 2014 Share Posted November 23, 2014 Excellent progress turning a toy into a model. If I may, here's a suggestion about the panels lines- Archer Transfers make resin surface decals including panel lines and rivets that might work given all the curves and odd angles you have to deal with. I haven't used them myself but have read good things about them. Here's the link http://www.archertransfers.com/SurfaceDetailsMain.html. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bengalensis Posted November 24, 2014 Author Share Posted November 24, 2014 That's a great idea! I have seen these before but didn't have a thought of them in this case. I'll give it a try, especially as I don't mind applying decals even for hours without end, it's on the opposite scale of modelling tasks compared to scribing for me. Ordering weld beads now... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woody37 Posted November 24, 2014 Share Posted November 24, 2014 This build is quite bizarre, but extremely enjoyable Jorgen, look forwards to the next instalment 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Will Vale Posted November 25, 2014 Share Posted November 25, 2014 I agree about the scribing, but I fail to see how anyone could enjoy decalling for hours on end - the process terrifies me! Lovely work on cleaning up the hull, I'm curious to see how you'll mask the portholes? Will 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Heath Posted November 25, 2014 Share Posted November 25, 2014 This looks like a lot of fun! Your eclectitude (is that a real English word?) knows no bounds. Keep up the good work. The use of glazing adhesive reminds me of when I used decorators sealant and builders foam on my Dalek. Definitely not your standard modelling materials. I am with you on the scribing as well. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomoshenko Posted November 26, 2014 Share Posted November 26, 2014 Heh heh brilliant. Like your original approach, especially the interior. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bengalensis Posted November 30, 2014 Author Share Posted November 30, 2014 I realised it would probably be a good idea to get some layer of paint on before the weld beam decals. I've never had good experience of applying decals directly onto the plastic. And that leads to that porthole masking. I tried my first idea which was to cut 3/4-circles of Ø6/Ø12 for the Ø8 mm windows, then wrap them around the edge first before pushing the inside down and sealing off with the Ø6 left over piece. It worked surprisingly well. I plan to cut out the red circles from the kit porthole decals and then add a thin black wash line inside of it, so hopefully I will have a margin of error to make the edges clean. In fact it might have worked too well and I don't like repetitive work so I got over confident and before too long there was a "pop" and inside went a window... After a little while I managed to retrieve it, but they are designed to be fitted from the inside in their slightly conical holes. I cleaned up the piece but it was impossible to squeeze it back in and place it level at the right height. In the end I sanded down the edge slightly to make it on the small side and managed to hang it in place with some tape so I could apply CA from the outside and then clean it up. I hope there won't be any noticeable difference. With that out of the way I sprayed a first coat of primer. This will take both two and three rounds of primer and sanding as a number of ghost marks showed up and also the seam line between the hull halves and my filling of the bottom holes require more work. I will have to order more primer. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Heath Posted November 30, 2014 Share Posted November 30, 2014 Good save on the porthole popping out, that is one of the things I dread happening on my builds. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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