1/72 Hasegawa MV-22B Osprey

[Pete in Lincs]

A leading London auction house will soon be

having a sale of Jackson Pollock cutting mats.

Details to follow.

[Creepy Pete]

Good start on the build. I'm looking forward to see all the PE in place. You posted that pic of the door from the walkaround on page 2, keep in mind that's a CV-22 as used by the USAF Special Ops units, not a USMC MV-22, which is more like a normal transport. So the interior might be quite different.

[georgeusa]

Man, after an exhausting modeling night consisting of making two cuts, you should be beat down today, how will you cope? Sorry couldn't resist that jab. Why is it you do the simple little things, then look at the clock on the wall, and two hours have passed on your 15 minute job. For me, it is masking that takes forever. A single, easy canopy piece has been known to take an hour by itself. Have a good committee meeting tonight and an enjoyable trip Wednesday. Here we are getting ready for Thanksgiving; a day of allowed gluttony with part of the population plopping down to veg watching football games and the other part of the population planning their shopping tortures for the next day!

[Nigel Heath]

I know progress was a bit feeble, sorry about that. Perhaps I should refrain from posting anything when there is not much progress?

[S5 modeller]

Never say that, Nigel.

I love seeing your updates, no matter how small.

That fretsaw looks like a right handy tool.

Keep up the good work.

[Spookytooth]

Just caught this thread Nigel, I will follow with interest.

Simon

[Nigel Heath]

Having got the committee meeting out of the way and not having to cook my dinner tonight I got more done than expected. The cut at the top of the door aperture was best marked out like this so that all the Dymo tape stuck down well:

This was how it looked after I had got as far as I could with the simple saws:

As I expected the problem was dealing with the radiused corners.

Time to roll out the micro fretsaw, fortunately the thinnest blade would go through all the previous saw cuts, just:

By putting this amount of twist on the blade a slight attack of the radii could be achieved:

This is how it looked from the back of the first corner attempted:

It was such a palaver disassembling and reassembling the saw after each cut that I did try using scribers and sharp scalpel blades to try to cut out the corners but I came to the conclusion that the fret saw was the best tool I had for the job.

With a little further action with a scalpel I did eventually get the lower door removed:

I have come to the conclusion that I will have to add some material to the periphery of the doors, probably with some plasticard strip + filler. What I am trying to do is not have to add anything to the aperture surrounds.

After some more work I got the upper door removed:

The fret saw blade is thinner than the other saw blades at 0.175mm so this is why it could give a slight curve to the pre-existing cuts despite the height of the blade really being to tall for the job:

The thin fret saw blade came out of all this slightly kinked and mangled but I think it will still be good for future jobs:

I always think that the best thing you can do with tools is actually use them. I am sure they appreciate it.

Now I will get on with cleaning up the doors and apertures. I hope g-usa is not too disappointed with my progress tonight.

Bye for now,

Nigel

[georgeusa]

Never disappointed. Will occasionally poke fun at you though. But you know it is good natured. I admire the patience and restraint you show when completing a step or finishing a part. Some people, like me, will rush it through to finish it. You will take the time to do it right and don't really compromise the quality of the build. My hat is off to you.

[Mark Turk]

Looking good Nigel! Pay no mind to georgeusa. The more haste, the less speed.

Edited November 26, 2014 by Mark Turk

[perdu]

I think you ought to rush it, botch a few things then tell lies about it all in RFI...

Err, no that isn't ever the way to do things and seeing the methods you use is giving lessons to we lesser mortals

I really do wish I'd spent thirty quid at that etchy tool guys stand now, that fretsaw is brilliant

I agree with you about adding to the door dimension rather than trying to fettle the 'holes' they came out of too

Now then where do I go for lessons in metricology, I understand imperial mensurations but frictions of millimotors is beyond me

[Vanja #66]

Surgical cuts, Nigel...

[Nigel Heath]

Back from my trip I can provide a small update.

Here is the side door opening after a pretty much full clean up:

The cut out doors are now much narrower than the openings:

But on closer inspection of the Eduard PE I realised that they provide replacements for both doors. The upper one looks too wide for the opening though:

And the lower one is slightly narrow:

When I checked the reference pictures I saw that the lower door is quite thin and the PE is probably the way to go rather than using the cut out kit part:

So I folded that and gave it a slight curvature to match the kit door:

The yellow handle part indicated above should stand off the door so I am thinking of soldering it to some brass rod to get the right effect. Anyway this is a slight side track, I now need to use the new cut out door opening to see what view it affords of the cabin interior.

[perdu]

that door looks fine and will be awesome on the model

Maybe a retrograde sliver of plasticard round the hole instead, just to draw the eye to the 'fit' of the opened door

Getting just a tad exciting now Nigel

[phildagreek]

Nice attention to detail.

[JOCKNEY]

A leading London auction house will soon be

having a sale of Jackson Pollock cutting mats.

Details to follow.

Hi Pete

Is Jackson Pollock cockney rhyming slang for something naughty ?

Nigel

Just for a while there you had me genuinely believing you can do OOB, then we see three hundred weight of photo etch goodies, and we are reassured to know another Nigel epic is about to begin !

Pull up a comfy chair, popcorn open and settle down everyone it's going to be special....

Cheers Pat

[charlie_c67]

Not really...

http://www.jackson-pollock.org/images/paintings/autumn-rhythm.jpg

Is referenced in Red Dwarf due to its similarity to a fresher honking up on the pavement. ;-)

[Pete in Lincs]

Boys from the Dwarf, Yeah!

[Nigel Heath]

When I did a fit check with the interior part for the side door, the accuracy Hasegawa had achieved was impressive. I had made no attempt to match with this part but the bottom and side fit with the opening was within tiny fractions of a millimeter (milimotors for perdu I think):

That horrid 2 and a half D fire extinguisher will have to go of course but more on that later. (Another blooming fire extinguisher to make - I wish they'd stop putting these things in aircraft).

It was difficult to photograph what would be visible of the the cabin interior but I am thinking a rudimentary floor and sidewall on the LHS are kind of mandatory:

Back to the cockpit, Eduard provide a complete replacement cockpit:

I had a long think about this and was reluctant to replace the solidity of the kit part with a flimsy PE fabrication. I searched BM and then the web to see if others had come up with an alternative approach but came up with nothing. My thinking was to remove the rear bulkhead from the Eduard PE and apply it to the kit part as an applique. The rest of the Eduard part seems to offer little more than the kit part provides and I am unsure why Eduard went down this route. The features I have highlighted will need to be removed:

To replace the orange highlighted areas Eduard provide these nice pre-painted parts:

This photo gives an idea of what they should look like:

The green areas I highlighted are supposed to be just side trays on the side of the seats (not rectangular columns) and Eduard provide a much more realistic alternative.

The crude kit rudder pedals can be replaced by these much finer PE alternatives:

They should have some sort of fabric gator around them, I'm not sure how to reproduce that yet:

This is the rear portion of the Eduard cockpit which I need to cut out, now how to do that without making it curl up too much?

I will go to bed having a think about that and the many other issues this cockpit throws up.

Bye for now,

Nigel

[S5 modeller]

Nigel, as the base of the back wall is intended to be folded, can't you try scoring along the back of the fold line then folding it up. If you were to score it fairly deeply on the back, this might cause it to snap along the fold line.

Apart from that, maybe repeated fold/unfold operations might do it, but might deform it.

Alternatively, maybe you could try hardening the fold line, by heating then plunging in cold water, that might help shock the bend into snapping when you fold it.

The only other option I can think of, is a small thin cutting wheel in your motor tool.

Trying to use snips would curl and deform the part.

Just something to add to your coggitations.

Edited November 29, 2014 by S5 modeller

[Nigel Heath]

Thanks for the ideas Matt. I did think about using a thin cutting wheel but it seems a bit drastic and could end up with a lot of work cleaning up the cut. What I have come up with is to bend it at the fold line then cut it with snips near the fold on the waste side. The bend should hopefully prevent the back wall curling, then a second cut on the fold line should only result in the thin waste strip curling. That's what I'm going to try anyway.

[louiex2]

Nigel, clampimg the back wall in a vise with jaws wide and deep enough to hold the part might help reduce any curling when you cut it.

[Tomoshenko]

"Another blooming fire extinguisher to make - I wish they'd stop putting these things in aircraft"

Once upon a time there were two engineers overlooking a prototype Osprey. One turns to the other and remarks "do we need a fire extinguisher?".

"No" the other responded, and then went on to say "but it serves as an excuse to make Nigel scratch one when he comes to build a model of this craft in a few years time".

"Ha ha ha" guffawed his colleague.

[Nigel Heath]

Executing my bend and cut plan this is what I got after the first cut:

That seemed to have worked OK.

A few more cuts got me this:

Now I have to check for fit so I started to remove the unwanted areas, first roughing it out with these tools:

The bottom seat supports were in an awkward place and demanded some motor tool action:

Note the Dymo tape to protect the side of the consoles.

The tape did a good and necessary job:

Some of my riffler tools proved invaluable in the clean up of this difficult space, generally finished off with skinny sanding sticks:

To get a decent fit I had to trim this much off the bottom:

Followed with some further finessing I got it to fit quite well:

Now I think I can glue it on. I have concluded that Eduard offer the whole cockpit to avoid the job of removing the unwanted areas but I did not think it was such a difficult job and this is a better way to go. You just need the right tools.

[hendie]

Nigel, what Gorilla glue do you use?

I have some but it expands about 3x the volume as it dries. It's great stuff, but unless you can fully clamp the piece, it will deform parts as it expands.

[Nigel Heath]

I use the Gorilla superglue, here is a picture of it:

Its quite thick but very good for near instant bonding, especially with metal parts. It does not expand, is it polyurethane glue that you have? That does foam up as it cures.