A first! Tamiya Morris Mini Cooper 1275S Done

[stiliqn007]

Hello fellow modellers. This is my first ever project of something like this (diecast dont count ) and in the past 2 months or so,ive been doing this.

Note: Expect a lot of bad work

If anyone can explain to me why 1 of the headlights went white after i stuck it on,I'd appreciate it. (No i didnt put a lot) *dat popping out wheel tho*

Anyone care to spare 2 rear fenders? lol

Dat stance tho

It ain't a problem for me to take a few daytime picture tomorrow if anyone wants.

Also abit of info on it. Most of the parts excluding the green parts,rims,under and over the floor panel have been painted with nail polish..due to..me being a cheap sweetheart lol and trying to make it a budget build. Next build wont be so much on a budget tho,I've bought some paint.

Also underneath the floor panel at first i thought id try and paint it with black nail polish...which looked like ..well.. So i covered it up with Gun Metal.

What i got to say about the model...Well first off to the people that said that it's a good first model,...nope,it was b*tch building it through most of the time,but I ain't mad,just pointing the facts out. Quality of the model was great all up until i had to make the suspension and tires work...of which only 2 wheels spin,the other 2 are stuck unless u roll em with ur hand. Also my glue (Revell Contacta which is..kind of messy) melted off the rear wheel's middle bits which were going into the drum brakes so after they hadnt attached well enough i had to take them off and try and fix em. I did,but sadly theyre now popping out of the fenders. It was really hard making the brakes. The middle bit which spins the wheel doesnt even spin. I've tried clearing the hole a bit,tho the middle part at one point could even come out of the brake when u move it around a bit.

Overall it was a fun experience,had it's hard moments,but that's expected when u havent done this before. If anyone wants to see more pictures through the project,they can go here http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234968753-tamiya-morris-mini-cooper-1275s/

My next model will be a an ae86 Levin hatchback. For those unfamiliar with it,its a Toyota Corolla.

Hope u partly like it guys,I might soon be starting the Levin,so if u want to see me try and not ruin a great car,follow the next build when it pops up.

Edited October 28, 2014 by stiliqn007

[Séan Pádraig]

I love this kit.... every one should build at least on Tamiya Mini at some point.

First off to answer your question the headlamp has fogged... this is caused by the glue reacting, the solution is to use PVA or better still get some Humbrol 'Clear Fix'

As for the build, I like it, the black wheels look great with the green...

[stiliqn007]

for Stancers,they look great lol,for me they look unlucky and rushed. I'll have to google that tomorrow. I got no idea what that humbrol stuff is. Thanks for the advice

[Séan Pádraig]

I had a feeling you stanced them... in fact the clue was when you said the AE86 was your next build.

The Clear Fix will suit all the clear plastic but for the main build get some liquid cement (applied with a paint brush) a lot less messy that the starter glue.

[stiliqn007]

I had a feeling you stanced them... in fact the clue was when you said the AE86 was your next build.

The Clear Fix will suit all the clear plastic but for the main build get some liquid cement (applied with a paint brush) a lot less messy that the starter glue.

My goal wasn't to stance it,but that's how things went.

So i checked a video of the humbrol clear fix. What's it's main use? I saw a man using it as a top coat i think,then he applied a vinyl which he also covered with it. He also used it to make some plastic pieces look more glass like. If it's something like a top coat,i actually bought Mr. Hobby's Top Coat Semi-gloss. I covered the mini with it with 1 coat.

Glue/Cement wise,I was with a friend who kind of got me into this hobby and when we went to the hobby store,he told me I should get revell glue,because the cement (Mr. CementS in this case which i was going to get) supposedly ruins the plastic. I know it's main use is to melt both pieces together....I was unlucky tho with the Mini's rims. The Revell melted off the center pieces so i had to cut up some plastic and use normal glue for it. But I guess the main reason was that he supposedly had a kit before and used the Cement,which melted his kit,reason why he told me to get Revell. And me being the newbie I am i listened to him

[Séan Pádraig]

Two different products...

Humbrol Clearfix (blue label) is the glue you need for fixing clear parts without fogging.it is used to fix canopies, light lens, windshields and other glass etc.

The other product is Humbrol Clear (red label) which is an varnish used to (as per the video) make clear parts like aircraft canopies more transparent and glass like.... it is also sprayed on aircraft after painting BUT before applying the decals (this helps avoid a condition known as silvering) it is a replacement product for a mythical solution known to modellers as 'Klear'

As you progress with the hobby you will hear of many products and techniques, there will be so many options available from paints to decal solutions to glues, weathering products... the list is endless but it is always good to ask question to get peoples experiences... but ultimately it is trial and error as to which product/technique you end up using.

But above all it is only a hobby so above all else have fun.

[stiliqn007]

Two different products...

Humbrol Clearfix (blue label) is the glue you need for fixing clear parts without fogging.it is used to fix canopies, light lens, windshields and other glass etc.

The other product is Humbrol Clear (red label) which is an varnish used to (as per the video) make clear parts like aircraft canopies more transparent and glass like.... it is also sprayed on aircraft after painting BUT before applying the decals (this helps avoid a condition known as silvering) it is a replacement product for a mythical solution known to modellers as 'Klear'

As you progress with the hobby you will hear of many products and techniques, there will be so many options available from paints to decal solutions to glues, weathering products... the list is endless but it is always good to ask question to get peoples experiences... but ultimately it is trial and error as to which product/technique you end up using.

But above all it is only a hobby so above all else have fun.

So the Humbrol Clear with the blue label is glue specially used for putting on glass.

Red label is in a way a bonus if u wanna give the model a more realistic look.

Question tho. If i actually buy the blue label,how do i fix the fogging? Do i apply it on the fogged side or do i clear out the glue with alcohol first? (if alcohol even helps that is)

[Séan Pádraig]

The Clearfix (blue) will not cause fogging... there is unfortunately (to my knowledge) no cure for parts that have already fogged other than trying to pick off the lens and replacing it.

I think on this occasion treat it as a lesson learnt...

[Mike100]

Looks good to me for a first build . The only way to learn is though experience and to do that you gotta just build kits try things and see how thing turn out . I always use Revell Contacta and never had any problems melting stuff .

[stiliqn007]

Maybe the rims were made out of shitty material. Didnt happen to any other parts of the kit

[Gobs of Espresso]

This is very nice build. I would not worry too much about what went wrong cause it being your first build, it looks great.

As for the head light lens, if you would like to cover up the fogged up lense, think about detracting the attention by putting some black lines on the lens like they do for racing Minis. I think they would look great with those black rims. But that is just me.

https://hattonsimages.blob.core.windows.net/products/T24130_42246_Qty1_plaspainted.jpg

http://www.sportscardigest.com/wp-content/uploads/mini-cooper-racing-at-oulton-park-in-1965.jpg

http://www.minimania.com/images/masters2.jpg

Gobs

[stiliqn007]

This is very nice build. I would not worry too much about what went wrong cause it being your first build, it looks great.

As for the head light lens, if you would like to cover up the fogged up lense, think about detracting the attention by putting some black lines on the lens like they do for racing Minis. I think they would look great with those black rims. But that is just me.

https://hattonsimages.blob.core.windows.net/products/T24130_42246_Qty1_plaspainted.jpg

http://www.sportscardigest.com/wp-content/uploads/mini-cooper-racing-at-oulton-park-in-1965.jpg

http://www.minimania.com/images/masters2.jpg

Gobs

hmmm,that and coloring the outer part of the rims .

[stiliqn007]

Looks good to me for a first build . The only way to learn is though experience and to do that you gotta just build kits try things and see how thing turn out . I always use Revell Contacta and never had any problems melting stuff .

Could it be possible that the Gun Metal i used on the rims (which for whatever reason had acetone) reacted to the glue and then the melting process happen? Altho im not sure the same happened about the front wheels.

[A5h]

Hi,

Im new to modelling (less than 12 months) but I have done a few cars and had this fogging happen to me, I was told to use PVA glue which I have been doing IMO PVA works but for me takes ages to dry and gets on my wick!! it also seems to not be sticky enough, so you touch it and pop... the part is no longer stuck and rattling around somewhere or on the floor.

Then I found this stuff in B&M for £1.50 a tube,, its sticky as hell, dries clear and takes more hammer to a dried part than pva does.. Just be careful when you take the top off because its quiet runny at first. I use a cocktail stick to take it from the tube to the piece im going to glue and the put some on to where its going to stick.

If in doubt test on an inconspicuous piece first like 2 bits of clear sprue or something.

http://www.cassart.co.uk/craft/glue/uhu_all_purpose_adhesive.htm?utm_source=google&utm_medium=base&productid=1060&gclid=COaApuD4m8MCFcjHtAodCzcA8w