geedubelyer Posted October 16, 2014 Share Posted October 16, 2014 Hi guys 'n' gals. I'm hoping I might get a few suggestions on how to replicate the effect of stretched fabric in the smaller scales. I'm currently working on the 1/72nd scale Airfix dH88 Comet and have been forced to remove any semblance of surface detail on the rudder. The ribs are very subtle on the full sized bird so will need very little depth. To compound matters they follow a zig-zag pattern so simply sanding chordwise would n't be accurate. What have you guys done to solve the issue? All help appreciated, cheers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wyverns4 Posted October 16, 2014 Share Posted October 16, 2014 Hi! The stretched fabric effect is usually over done and not really in keeping with the real thing. Part of the fabric covering process involves applying a shrinking dope to tighten the fabric. This results in an almost flat surface and not the usual ridge and furrows that appear on most kits. So sanding off the detail is actually a good thing! What can be done to add some interest to the surface is to apply thin strips of clear decal film to represent the fabric strips sown over the ribs, leading and trailing edges, etc. to add strength. Depending on how you want the finished model to look you can apply them before painting, or after. Obviously if they are applied after the main paint finish they will need to be painted in the appropriate colour. all it takes is a straight edge and a fresh blade... Christian the Married and exiled to africa 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geedubelyer Posted October 16, 2014 Author Share Posted October 16, 2014 Thanks for the suggestion Christian. I wholly agree with you that the rib detail should be subtle, especially in this scale. If you have a peep at this photo from the Walkaround section here on BM you can make out the detail I was describing earlier. http://www.britmodeller.com/walkarounds/aircraft/dh88/88%2017.jpg In your experience, would the strips of decal work for this sort of effect? Cheers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black Knight Posted October 16, 2014 Share Posted October 16, 2014 I tend to go heavier than decal for the ribbing, I use Tamiya tape, then lightly sand down the edges. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wyverns4 Posted October 16, 2014 Share Posted October 16, 2014 Thanks for the suggestion Christian. I wholly agree with you that the rib detail should be subtle, especially in this scale. If you have a peep at this photo from the Walkaround section here on BM you can make out the detail I was describing earlier. http://www.britmodeller.com/walkarounds/aircraft/dh88/88%2017.jpg In your experience, would the strips of decal work for this sort of effect? Cheers. Yep! Either short lengths assembled to make the zig-zag or if you can manage it cut it in one go.... Me? I would go for the short lengths! Christian the Married and exiled to africa 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnd Posted October 16, 2014 Share Posted October 16, 2014 I think it's woody37 who uses Solartrim for this purpose. I've bought some but not got round to trying it out yet. It's thicker than decal but not too heavy. It certainly looks effective when he does it. Maybe check out some of his builds on here? John. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darby Posted October 16, 2014 Share Posted October 16, 2014 I'm of the Tamiya tape method cut into thin strips. What I do sometimes is stick the tape to my cutting mat (a clean bit) then rub down quite hard as this flattens them out a bit more and also smooths them more. I use the end of the handle on my scalpel handle. Paint over finished strips. Try it on a bit of scrap plastic and see if it suits your need 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geedubelyer Posted October 17, 2014 Author Share Posted October 17, 2014 Excellent suggestions, thanks guys. I tried to cut thin strips of decal for the ribs but failed to get a clean edge. Plus, it was difficult to maintain a parallel cut. That does n't bode well for possible future applications, i.e. canopy framing. Time will tell. Thanks for the reminder on the Solartrim John. I think woody suggested it for the canopy framing on my build thread. There are a number of possible solutions that I need to try. At this juncture I have had a dabble with stretched sprue glued to the rudder. After seeing how that looked I think I'm tending towards heeding Christian's advice and leaving the surfaces devoid of detail in this scale. Comparisons with reference photos viewed at a scale distance make it almost impossible to see this ribbing. I'm very grateful to everyone for the ideas, thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pin Posted October 17, 2014 Share Posted October 17, 2014 (edited) I suggest two approaches: Method one - thin strips of masking tape, thick layer of primer Result Method two - sanding - Mask a rib - Mask next rib, sand between - Repeat. Aileron remains unsanded for comparison Edited October 17, 2014 by Pin 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wyverns4 Posted October 17, 2014 Share Posted October 17, 2014 Hi Pin, Interesting I feel the need to do some experimenting... Christian the Married and exiled to africa Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Selwyn Posted October 22, 2014 Share Posted October 22, 2014 I have a tecnique I use on thin sheet stock, particularly useful if making a rudder for instance, in two halfs. On the inside of the sheet draw in your ribbing using a biro pen using a heavy hand. This makes an indentation in the plastic on the inside, and forms a raised rib on the outside. Selwyn 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scratchbuilder Posted October 22, 2014 Share Posted October 22, 2014 Rene, have a look at the DH89 thread. The latest pics I put on today. Even in 1/32nd scale I have used only a thickness of primer. I mask the wing and cut a rib tape's-worth of masking tape out. Spray generously with a cheapo primer surfacer, (rattle can or spray gun). When unmasked you'll have rib tapes, which is actually more than enough. The aircraft we measured and photographed had skins as tight as drums and no appreciable sag. It is indeed usually overdone. I have also incorporated the ply sheeting parts in the process. Cheers, Martin 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geedubelyer Posted October 27, 2014 Author Share Posted October 27, 2014 Superb input guys, much appreciated. I like your idea Selwyn. I can see some experimentation in my future..... Cheers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scratchbuilder Posted October 27, 2014 Share Posted October 27, 2014 Selwyn's idea is basically the Harry Woodman idea, more suitable to scratchbuilding obviously, but be very careful as it makes a very definite ridge and most well cared for a/c just don't have so much "ridge and furrow" effect to their covering. Also, the ribs are never more than about a half inch in full size and the tapes, unless you are modelling in a very large scale would never show under a few coats of dope. Martin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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