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1/8 scale Short nose D Type Jaguar


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Only a small update here - I've added the secondary roundel/number decals.

The reason for the white 'blanks' first was so that the final decals really are white, with no blue bleeding through.

Getting the decal onto the tail fin was challenging, with all the different curves, and bearing in mind the circle is 55mm across.

I'm currently casting up a resin oil tank to go on the front passenger side, next to the engine.

More on that when/if it works.....

A few pics attached of the mould before the former was removed, and then after.

Roy.

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Edited by roymattblack
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God that's an exciting-looking race car! Brilliant choice of subject and of course, execution.

Roy, to a casting bone-head; how do you make the master parts you squish into the mold rubber / peanutbutter / jelly?

Sorry for the ignorant, embarrassing question-maybe a 4 hour tutorial would explain things...........

:weep::mental::fool:

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Making the masters isn't such a dark art as people think.

I've only been casting some of my own parts for about 18 months.

I make the original part out of anything that looks suitable - hacked-about kit parts, plasticard, plastic shapes and bits I keep in a scrap box, whatever.

Also, the finish doesn't have to be as good as the part you end up using.

Often, my master part is pretty rough.

The mould is really simple.

It's a two part liquid mix with a tub-life of about 5 minutes when mixed. It's about the consistency of double cream.

The part is stuck to a small glass sheet with D/S tape, a plastic surround is made up - clear plastic from drinks bottles is good - or even Lego bricks.

The 'wall' is stuck to the glass with a ring of Plasticine.

The silicone is mixed then poured in slowly, in several thin layers so there's time to poke about with cocktail sticks, so you know the rubber goes into all the little holes etc and there aren't any air bubbles.

The mould takes about an hour to go hard.

When it's set, I peel away the plastic wall and slice the rubber mould off the glass with a razor sharp Sandoku knife.

Turn it over, and flex out the master. The silicone mould is extremely flexible, so even the most complex shapes come out easily.

The first resin cast 'might' be ok, but it may need further sanding, filling and 'tweaking' to get it right.

If I only need or want the one part, I'll use it.

If I intend making several such as the wheels, I'll maybe make another mould from the finished first casting.

The resin is also a two part liquid, and again, I pour it into the mould in small layers, and poke about with a cocktail stick to make certain it's gone into all the holes.

The Dunlop wheels are a pain, as there are SO many nooks and crannies.

I've cast about ten sets of wheel parts, just to get four wheels.

All good fun, and actually pretty simple once you've given it a go.

If anyone wants to know more, or where to get the stuff, just PM me.

Roy.

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Geeze!

A. You actually accepted my fervent plea.

B. You made it seem so simple.

C. You taught the whole forum (I mean any paying attention) a valuable lesson.

D. You did it in a few paragraphs.

Thank you for sharing and taking the time Roy. Any who miss this have not added a new and valuable skill to their arsenal.

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Many thanks Mr C...

As an add on - I've posted a few pics of the oil tank in resin straight from the mould, in place, and another after sanding it and painting.

I'm probably going to BMF it though as the paint looks too sparkly and fake.

Also, I've just pulled the filler cap from the mould - it hasn't been cleaned or anything - what you see is how it comes out.

I'll paint it chrome silver, but BMF the large domed top.

To give an idea of the size, the yellow grid lines on the mat are 1cm.

Roy.

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The oil cap looks great. I know it is probably 1.5 cm in diameter but still, the hinge and catch look quite sharp. Will look the part once painted.

Thanks for the casting instructions. It is something that I still have to try.

Really should have done this by now as I spent the first 25 years of my working life as a moulder in both ferrous and non-ferrous foundries!!

I was going to buy all the kit at the Nationals earlier this month but the people that were there last year were not booked in.

Keep it going Roy, we are eating this up. :popcorn:

Steve.

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Thanks for the insight into making your own parts I may have to give it ago at some point soon, i could think of alot of things to do with that.

Quick question what do you think is the thinnest you could go with resin before it becomes unuseable, like do you think i could say mould an f1 car front wing in 1/20 and get away with the thickness

Shaun

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