DaveCS Posted October 13, 2014 Share Posted October 13, 2014 Hi All, I have, languishing in the "I'm going to finish this one day" pile - a Special Hobby C.C.F. Goblin Mk I. While it is not a "WWI" kit (more of an interwar that happened to get "stuck" with the RCAF into WWII) I am curious about replacing the horrid struts that came with the kit. I know Albion Alloys make a tool (and thin walled brass tube) with which I can fashion my own replacements. What I'm curious about is the following: What size of tubing (thickness O.D and I.D ) would be appropriate for 1/72? I'm trying to figure this out before I take that leap of cash and put out any money for something I may not be able to use. Any help would be appreciated. Cheers, Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnd Posted October 13, 2014 Share Posted October 13, 2014 I'm in a similar situation with a Pegasus Brisfit so would love to know too. Regarding the Albion Alloys tool, is it the one that sits between the jaws of a vice? If so, I read one opinion that questioned the point. Why not put the rod directly between the vice jaws? That's what I'm going to try first. John. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveCS Posted October 13, 2014 Author Share Posted October 13, 2014 I'm in a similar situation with a Pegasus Brisfit so would love to know too. Regarding the Albion Alloys tool, is it the one that sits between the jaws of a vice? If so, I read one opinion that questioned the point. Why not put the rod directly between the vice jaws? That's what I'm going to try first. John. I would concur John. It seems like that would be "reasonable" - I'm still researching this but definitely the thin walled brass tube would be helpful to create the struts. I hope someone out there has some idea regarding the size of tubing Cheers, Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Aero Posted October 14, 2014 Share Posted October 14, 2014 The principle of the A A tool is to close the tube onto the rod therefore keeping it's section and thickness constant, (when the tube closes to the thickness of the less compressible wire), where as to use the tube only would result in a deformed crushed tube with each new length of differing thicknesses. Likewise try crushing a piece of hard brass wire. Not easy and again with varying thicknesses at each attempt without a controlled constant pressure. Old time wooden modellers used flattened hard copper wire. The ideal was the Skybirds 86 Strutz which sadly will no longer be produced, When I recovered the machine after Mikes sad death, the vital section rollers and other parts were missing and as the machine was a creation of a clever engineer with a knowledge of metallurgy, there were of course no drawings or instructions to be found. Equally I was not in a position to rescue the purpose made metal drawing (as in extruding) benches which were nearly 30' in length. I do have some loose stock of odd wires in short but usable lengths which I hope at some time to put into packs. As to what tube sizes to use, then I would suggest you get a number of tubes, as struts in real life vary from type to type of a/c. I am looking at producing my finer plastic strut in a more rigid material but again time is the enemy. John 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveCS Posted October 14, 2014 Author Share Posted October 14, 2014 Thanks for your input as always John. You are a wealth of knowledge. Cheers, Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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