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PlaStix

Two 1/48 Mk.Vb Spitfires - Tamiya and Airfix (new) - Spitfire collection expansion project - FINISHED! - photos now in the RFI section - 08/06/15

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You're a braver man than me taking on two great 1/48 Spitfire builds!

Like the rest I cant see the decal touch ups on the Tamiya so you're good to go.

Looking forward to more!

Cheers

Bruce

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Thank you Bruce. I actually enjoy having the two to build at the same time - so it's no hardship!

Kind regards,

Stix

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Only just caught up with this thread. Bags of excellent tips, making sure I bookmark this for the future.

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Only just caught up with this thread. Bags of excellent tips, making sure I bookmark this for the future.

Thank you for your comments Simon - it's been good that various people with more experience of kits and Spitfires have dropped in to offer advice.

Hopefully I'm going to try and get more of the decals on these this weekend.

Kind regards,

Stix

Edited by PlaStix

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Opened my Airfix kit box today. Looks great. BUT - spotted Airfix's deliberate mistake - interior area of cockpit on port side of fuselage - cockpit door - no handle. Actually it's not a problem for me because I'll be doing the build, my first, with a closed canopy. Find the instructions (Step 18) canopy options for the two versions confusing. Will be following your progress with interest PlaStix.

Good Luck.

John

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I have to say I am in awe of your painting skills!

Thank you Simon.

Opened my Airfix kit box today. Looks great. BUT - spotted Airfix's deliberate mistake - interior area of cockpit on port side of fuselage - cockpit door - no handle. Actually it's not a problem for me because I'll be doing the build, my first, with a closed canopy. Find the instructions (Step 18) canopy options for the two versions confusing. Will be following your progress with interest PlaStix.

Good Luck.

John

Hi John. With regards the handle - I think it has been left off the inside fuselage side because it would hardly be seen with the door and canopy closed. If you check the sprues (near the IP bulkhead) - Airfix have provided a separate door (part 13) to be used if the door and canopy are to be displayed open and this door has the handle moulded on.

Good luck with your build - are you going to do a WIP? Be good if you did.

Kind regards,

Stix

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I had hoped to get all the upper wing decals on this morning but I'm finding both the Airfix and the Tamiya decals take a lot of work to get them applied anywhere near decently. As a result I only managed to get the port wings' decals applied on each kit and sealed on with a coat of Pledge.

The Airfix decals seem quite thick and reasonably tough but that creates problems when trying to get them to settle over surface detail. For example it took a lot of DecalFix and gentle pressure to get the large roundel to conform over the raised bump.

16437775206_24d7b069c0_c.jpg

I think nearly every Tamiya decal split or broke up while either soaking or being applied! They are not fun to work with! After a lot of work and some touching up I managed to get them in place:

16276081098_7583cd4e75_c.jpg

While waiting for the Pledge to dry I managed to get the tips of the prop blades painted yellow:

15841258814_9468db4a16_c.jpg

So not the most relaxing of kit building mornings so tomorrow I'm going to do some work on my projects for the Achtung Panzer GB!

The decal stage for these two Spitfires is going to go on longer than I hoped!

Comments and suggestions welcome.

Kind regards,

Stix

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Good work, look great despite the problems, its always hard to believe that a company like Tamiya, producing such great kits for decades, supplying the modellers with such decals. My last contact with Tamiya decals went totally wrong, using others in the end, some work, some not.

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Not always the most fun part of a build but decals do make a great difference. Looking good Stix :)

Keep fighting them, you will win :boxing:

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Great work, especially on the dodgy Tamiya decals. I despise their decals, and have promised myself to always get an aftermarket sheet for any Tamiya kit.

Cheers,

Bill

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Stix,

Tolls are there to test us and the deals did that to you but you made them look great..

Now the Spitfires are dressed , they look QUITE IMPRESSIVE..

Glossy..

:wow::mike:

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Morning Stix

I say they're looking rather good just a shame about the Tamiya decals, when I built my Mk 1 last year I used the Tamiya set without any real problems apart from they were a little thick and took a lot of solution to get them to settle, on the other hand I bought some Techmod decals for my mustang build and they disintegrated in the water, I only bought them because they had good reviews, I guess it just goes to show you can get duff sets in both after market and OOB. Still keep at it they're gonna look splendid when finished.

Iain

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The same decal problems are well known in Tamiya's 1/32 Phantom and someone here on BM suggested that they should be coated with Klear/ Future before soaking. I've tried it with a couple of items (not built the kit yet!) and it seems to work. Perhaps you could try that.
Good luck
John

PS
Here's one I (nearly) finished earlier

DSCF2667_zpsf269ecc0.jpg

DSCF2670_zps18fccc6c.jpg

As you can see, my brush painting skills are not quite up to yours. I did not have any Micromesh polishing clothes in those days so I used a well worn Scotchbrite pad followed by toothpaste, hence the white residue in the panel lines. I suffer from that curse of all modellers, impatience, and just wanted to get it finished. It was relegated to the Shelf of Doom when I could not get the spinner stripes right. I have since seen tips on BM on doing that, but, I cannot find the spinner of course.

Edited by Biggles87

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The same decal problems are well known in Tamiya's 1/32 Phantom and someone here on BM suggested that they should be coated with Klear/ Future before soaking. I've tried it with a couple of items (not built the kit yet!) and it seems to work. Perhaps you could try that.

Good luck

John

PS

I was also lucky in that Suddenski donated most of a decal sheet that was known to be OK

I also used to have terrible problems with Tamiya decals but I read somewhere, possibly on this site, that using warmer water (not hot) helps. I tried it and so far have had no problems since. Works with Hasegawa decals too.

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Just my 2 :2c: on decals: I have only once run into decals that shattered on contact with water and they were supplied by Bronco. Tamiya decals are generally well behaved IMHO, (albeit a little thick, just like me :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: ). I don't comply to the unwritten rules though, not drenching the build in "Future" before decaling. I prefer a coat of Vallejo matt acrylic varnish. I then use Mr. Mark Softer and Mr. Mark Setter to get things to settle down and get a painted on effect:

DSCN1593.jpg

Your mileage may vary though :winkgrin:

Edited by Gremlin56

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Cheer up Stix. I remember that when i was doing Tamiya Mosquito I had the same problem. I think that decalfix is just to strong for those decals.

keep doing good work mate

Pawel

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These are looking wonderful Stix!!

Thank you wimbledon. They are okay but, as I mentioned, the decals need more work than I anticipated. I was hoping that I'd have both wing tops sorted this past weekend. At the moment I'm also enjoying making stuff for the Achtung Panzer GB so it's my own fault I have less time on these!

Good work, look great despite the problems, its always hard to believe that a company like Tamiya, producing such great kits for decades, supplying the modellers with such decals. My last contact with Tamiya decals went totally wrong, using others in the end, some work, some not.

Thank you Bernd. Yes it is odd that they include decals that are so bad - I think it also depends on the luck of the draw - some people seem to have some that work well. A couple of my decals fell apart while soaking in the water! I managed to rescue them all so far but it is very frustrating at the time.

Not always the most fun part of a build but decals do make a great difference. Looking good Stix :)

Keep fighting them, you will win :boxing:

Hi Gremlin and thank you. I agree - applying decals is not the most enjoyable part of a build but it's when a model starts to look how it should. Don't worry I'm going to try and not let them beat me!

Great work, especially on the dodgy Tamiya decals. I despise their decals, and have promised myself to always get an aftermarket sheet for any Tamiya kit.

Cheers,

Bill

Hi Bill. Thank you. I'm thinking the same thing. I've got a 1/48 Tamiya Mk1 I think I want to build as part of the BoB GB - any suggestions for suitable replacement decals will be gratefully received!

Stix,

Tolls are there to test us and the deals did that to you but you made them look great..

Now the Spitfires are dressed , they look QUITE IMPRESSIVE..

Glossy..

Hi Houston. Hope you are keeping well. Thank you for you comments but, as yet, they are only partly dressed! I'll hopefully get more decals on at the weekend.

Morning Stix

I say they're looking rather good just a shame about the Tamiya decals, when I built my Mk 1 last year I used the Tamiya set without any real problems apart from they were a little thick and took a lot of solution to get them to settle, on the other hand I bought some Techmod decals for my mustang build and they disintegrated in the water, I only bought them because they had good reviews, I guess it just goes to show you can get duff sets in both after market and OOB. Still keep at it they're gonna look splendid when finished.

Iain

Hi Iain. Thank you for your comments. With regards AM decals I might have a quick experiment with the Tamiya ones I've got in the Mk.I's box before buying any to replace them.

The same decal problems are well known in Tamiya's 1/32 Phantom and someone here on BM suggested that they should be coated with Klear/ Future before soaking. I've tried it with a couple of items (not built the kit yet!) and it seems to work. Perhaps you could try that.

Good luck

John

PS

Here's one I (nearly) finished earlier

As you can see, my brush painting skills are not quite up to yours. I did not have any Micromesh polishing clothes in those days so I used a well worn Scotchbrite pad followed by toothpaste, hence the white residue in the panel lines. I suffer from that curse of all modellers, impatience, and just wanted to get it finished. It was relegated to the Shelf of Doom when I could not get the spinner stripes right. I have since seen tips on BM on doing that, but, I cannot find the spinner of course.

Hi John. Thank you for your comments. I will have an experiment with some Pledge over the weekend. Can I just check - do you let the Pleadge (Klear) dry before popping the decal in the water?

Thank you for posting the photos of your Spitfire - the decals look well on from where I'm looking. I know what you mean about impatience - I'm now itching to get these two done! Just got to make sure I don't get too impatient and muck up what I've done so far! And what is it with parts that go missing? I do the same thing - I put something somewhere I'm sure I'll remember - but to no avail!!!

Kind regards,

Stix

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I also used to have terrible problems with Tamiya decals but I read somewhere, possibly on this site, that using warmer water (not hot) helps. I tried it and so far have had no problems since. Works with Hasegawa decals too.

Hi avro683. Thank you for the advice. I have tried warmer water with the Tamiya decals already but, unfortunately, it doesn't seem to help. It does help soften the very thick Airfix decals though!

Just my 2 :2c: on decals: I have only once run into decals that shattered on contact with water and they were supplied by Bronco. Tamiya decals are generally well behaved IMHO, (albeit a little thick, just like me :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: ). I don't comply to the unwritten rules though, not drenching the build in "Future" before decaling. I prefer a coat of Vallejo matt acrylic varnish. I then use Mr. Mark Softer and Mr. Mark Setter to get things to settle down and get a painted on effect:

Your mileage may vary though :winkgrin:

Hi again Gremlin. Thank you for your thoughts. I will have to experiment with some different ideas. Love the decals in that photo - they look beautiful - stunning work as always!

Cheer up Stix. I remember that when i was doing Tamiya Mosquito I had the same problem. I think that decalfix is just to strong for those decals.

keep doing good work mate

Pawel

Hi Pawel. Thank you for stopping by and your comments. I'm not too fed up just a bit disgruntled........ You could be right about the DecalFix but some of the decals have broken up while they are just in the water! By the time the weekend comes around I'll be ready for the fight again!!

Kind regards,

Stix

Edited by PlaStix

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Hi Stix, as regards the decals/Pledge/Future/whatever question, I have only tried this a couple of times and yes I let it dry first and then cut It as closely as I dared to the decal with a new blade before soaking.

Good luck. John

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Hi Stix, as regards the decals/Pledge/Future/whatever question, I have only tried this a couple of times and yes I let it dry first and then cut It as closely as I dared to the decal with a new blade before soaking.

Good luck. John

Thank you John - I will have an experiment with some of the spares.

Kind regards,

Stix

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May I echo the above comment and say that, as a fellow brush painter, I am in awe of your skills! Can I ask, what matt varnish do you normally use? You always get a lovely matt finish which I've never managed to achieve.

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You brush-painted these? wow - I take my hat off to you sir!

Hi Phil. Thank you for your very kind comments. I've only been able to paint this way since being here on BM and learning some basics from the brush wielding maestros that achieve results I can only dream of!! For me it's Humbrol's flat brushes and acrylic paints thinned with water (and sometimes a lot of patience while building up thin layers of paint!)

May I echo the above comment and say that, as a fellow brush painter, I am in awe of your skills! Can I ask, what matt varnish do you normally use? You always get a lovely matt finish which I've never managed to achieve.

Hi PilotOfficer. Thank you too for your very kind comments. Varnishing is where I cheat a little and resort to spray cans. I use Humbrol's rattlecan matt varnish applied in very thin, misted-on coats. I know this varnish can be problematical at times and I've ruined one kit by using it in the wrong conditions. I have learnt, from others here on BM, that Humbrol's matt varnish can be temperamental depending on whether it's too cold or too warm, if it's not been shaken really well and if it's applied too thickly. I have to say I always feel like I'm risking weeks/months of work just to get a nice, flat finish but when it works properly the finish is great!

Kind regards,

Stix

Edited by PlaStix

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