Codger Posted October 28, 2014 Share Posted October 28, 2014 Same primer on doors and body? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shood23 Posted October 28, 2014 Share Posted October 28, 2014 The issues with your paint sound similar to something I read on another site which turned out to be the bits where closer to a heat pipe and that kind over over cured the paint, could anything like this have happened to yours Shaun Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roymattblack Posted October 28, 2014 Author Share Posted October 28, 2014 The issues with your paint sound similar to something I read on another site which turned out to be the bits where closer to a heat pipe and that kind over over cured the paint, could anything like this have happened to yours Shaun That could be the case...... I'll take far more care on the doors when they get the gloss coats. Roy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
noeyedears Posted October 29, 2014 Share Posted October 29, 2014 the only problem i have had with 2k is that it once reacted with the decals and shrank them. not a happy bunny. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roymattblack Posted October 29, 2014 Author Share Posted October 29, 2014 New top coats on the doors and they now match the body again. I'll see how they dry and will probably just polish them without the 2K coat. Roy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
foxfriend Posted November 1, 2014 Share Posted November 1, 2014 This is looking as good as all your other builds on here Roy. I am interested to know what this 2k paint is, ashamed to say I have never heard of it. The paintwork on my Rolls is finished, but I must say that I am not completely happy with it, let's just say that it would not pass closer examination!! Larry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roymattblack Posted November 1, 2014 Author Share Posted November 1, 2014 (edited) The 2k I use is a clear two-pack resin top coat in a rattle can. It dries in about 15 mins but is safe to handle after about a week. It will go on over any other paints, decals etc. If you leave the finish 'as-is' it's a lovely gloss that looks like the old cellulose paints. Give it polish and it turns into a modern 'toffee apple' gloss that looks utterly wet. It's not cheap at about £10.00 delivered but it is a big can. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/130988182120?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Roy. Edited November 1, 2014 by roymattblack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
foxfriend Posted November 2, 2014 Share Posted November 2, 2014 Thanks for the info Roy. It's a shame that it's two pack because it mean's I will not be able to use it. I have difficulty with a lot of paints with breathing problems, so I am quite restricted as to what I can use, I was hoping that 2k may be something I could use. Seeing as two pack is the most carconogenic of all of them, it is a definite no-no! It's strange really, as I use a spray booth and wear a decent mask, but most paints still manage to effect me. It's a real pain! Thanks again for the info. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roymattblack Posted November 3, 2014 Author Share Posted November 3, 2014 Now the doors. These are built up from an outer and inner skin – neither of which fit even remotely to the body.The actual outer door skins are about 1.5mm too big all-round to fit into the body aperture, and they are also the wrong shape in several places.A LOT of filing and sanding was needed to get the doors to fit.As already mentioned, once the doors were ok, they were painted and 2k’d, but dried a different colour to the body. Rub down - repaint. Second time around… The doors dried up fine and the handles and inner mechanisms were fitted.New blue leather was trimmed to fit the inner panels and the door tops and this was fitted using ‘Mammoth’ tape. Once everything was cleaned up of finger-marks etc, the doors looked pretty good.Once the doors were fitted to the body using the fiddly supplied wire hinges, the interior side panels were covered in leather and then the main tub was fixed to the chassis….. One part of the kit that I didn't like was the way the body fixing screws remain visible after the body is fitted.Other than very careful filling and touching up with a brush, I couldn't see an easy way to hide them. Then I had a mild brainwave... I spray painted a piece of white permanent adhesive vinyl with the body colour and once dry, cut two strips that fit along the lower body below the doors. Once in place - no screws! The bonnet (hood) was loosely dropped in place for fit. All ok so far. It will get accurate adjustment and fitting later on. Roy. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mpfiend Posted November 3, 2014 Share Posted November 3, 2014 Stunning progress Roy, The doors look like a very complicated shape to get fitting correctly, what method did you use? my reason for asking is that i am just going through this same issue on a tamiya 1/12 Enzo. Best Regards Keith Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roymattblack Posted November 3, 2014 Author Share Posted November 3, 2014 It was just lots of testing, filing a bit, testing, more filing and so on. I had to do it with the body screwed in place, as it changes shape slightly around the door apertures when its 'loose'. Once they fitted, the body was removed to fit the doors, and then screwed back again. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mpfiend Posted November 4, 2014 Share Posted November 4, 2014 Thanks very much for the insight Roy. Best Regards Keith. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
noeyedears Posted November 4, 2014 Share Posted November 4, 2014 what on earth is "mamoth tape"? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roymattblack Posted November 4, 2014 Author Share Posted November 4, 2014 what on earth is "mamoth tape"? It's a MEGA sticky - and very thin - double sided tape. B&Q sell it. Has a 10 year guaranteed life. I use it a lot in kit building for all sorts of jobs where glue is too fiddly or potentially messy. Roy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roymattblack Posted November 5, 2014 Author Share Posted November 5, 2014 (edited) With the body tub in place, the wings (fenders) could be attended to. First though, I fitted the small pocket lids on the upper sides at the rear of the body. New leather straps were made and fitted with the supplied metal buckles. The wings were nice and dry, with a good un-polished gloss so the first task was to BMF the tread strips.This wasn’t so much difficult, as somewhat tedious. Each strip had a 6mm wide strip of foil putting on first, this was then tucked into the edges using a thumbnail and finally the foil was carefully trimmed to each strip using a magnifying lamp and a new blade. To do both sides of the car took the best part of an hour. After that, the nice metal sidelights were added. As an aside, the pictures make the blue parts look a bit purple-ish. They aren't at all in reality. They are just a nice deep blue with a hint of metallic. The bonnet (hood) was checked for fit once again and then the wings were temporarily fitted.Temporarily, as they will have to come off again when I add the thin blue line to body side mouldings.I contemplated chroming (BMF) the ridges, but I thought it might look a bit too ‘bling’ on the car, and most pictures of real cars seem to have either painted lines or nothing at all. Roy. Edited November 5, 2014 by roymattblack 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
triumphfan Posted November 5, 2014 Share Posted November 5, 2014 Jaw droppingly beautiful. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
noeyedears Posted November 5, 2014 Share Posted November 5, 2014 ooooooooooooooo thats a luverly blooooooo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roymattblack Posted November 8, 2014 Author Share Posted November 8, 2014 (edited) Many thanks for the kind words of support. Now - Wheels….. What can I say other than constructing the wheels takes an age, but I’m getting quicker at them now after 5 wheels on a Monza some years ago, 6 wheels on the Rolls Royce, and now another 6 wheels on this one. A jig for assembly is supplied – actually, 8 jigs are supplied – yes, 8. You only need one. Also, the suggested method of wheel assembly results in twisted spokes and an uneven pattern.Pocher got it very wrong. Luckily, Paul Koo worked it out and the correct assembly method is on the DVD. I’m painting my wheels body colour for this build. I've also added the blue line to the body - fiddly and very time consuming, but I like it. Front lights now also fitted. Roy. Edited November 8, 2014 by roymattblack 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
foxfriend Posted November 8, 2014 Share Posted November 8, 2014 (edited) That is looking a truly first class build Roy. Brilliant, excellent, wonderful, awesome..................can't think of any more!! Granted, the wheels are time consuming, but don't you just love 'em!! Larry. Edited November 8, 2014 by foxfriend Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shood23 Posted November 8, 2014 Share Posted November 8, 2014 I think this is probably the best thing i can say, that looks nothing like any model i have ever seen it genuinely looks like you have shrunken down the real car. Just utterly amazing Shaun Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codger Posted November 8, 2014 Share Posted November 8, 2014 Routinely (for you) perfect! Two questions: Did you not find the plastic wheel rings (that receive the spoke nipples) brittle and breaking? Made a nightmare of my Rolls wheel assembly until I figured to melt them in. The stripe; did you mask and spray it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roymattblack Posted November 8, 2014 Author Share Posted November 8, 2014 Thank you everyone for the kind comments. The wheel rings: Mine were fine and took the little nipples well. I added a dot of cyano to every one as each spoke was fitted as I don't want any bits coming adrift later on. The blue line: This was added using mega thin self adhesive film cut to shape. The straight parts were easy but the rear curves had a template made from tracing paper first to get the shape. The film is extremely thin, but dense in colour. Care is needed applying it as it's extremely sticky and doesn't peel off again if you get it wrong without stretching and breaking apart. I added the long side stripe in one piece and then cut the gaps at the panel edges. That way, the line flows nicely with no 'steps'. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codger Posted November 8, 2014 Share Posted November 8, 2014 Great news all around. I'm amazed that the tape was a match for your fender paint color. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roymattblack Posted November 8, 2014 Author Share Posted November 8, 2014 It's available in umpteen colours. I've used it on numerous models in the past. My Tullius 'might have been' E Type has two greens on the lower body. Roy. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
noeyedears Posted November 9, 2014 Share Posted November 9, 2014 like the stripe, it breaks up the white nicely. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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