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Pocher Alfa Romeo Spider


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OK.....

This one next.

I contemplated the Mercedes 540K, but once built, the Merc is a good 7" longer than the Alfa!

Space is becoming a genuine problem with these huge cars and the Alfa just might squeeze into one of my cabinets.

The Merc would be 'homeless'.

I have the Paul Koo Pocher Alfa build DVD and I'm also currently scouring the web for more reference, wiring diagrams, images etc etc so it will be a few days before there's any updates.

I know our friend The Codger has left the engine internals out of his Rolls Royce as it's irrelevant anyway, but I'm going to put mine in just for the fun of adding it.

I'm not decided on a bodywork colour scheme as yet, but I might just go with the blue/cream on the box....

Roy.

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Most glad to see you bring on another classic.

A though for you: An experienced Pocher builder advised me when I started the Rolls that Rolls and Alfa(s) will sag their axles and springs over time. I know (only too well) that the MMC replacements are spendy but they do solve the situation.

A much cheaper and easy alternative is to build 4 simple prop stands, concealed inboard of the wheels.

Further advice from Marvin at MMC: When they build a customer car, the leave off the sixth tire (spare) and the 'fin' on the rear deck. No 1:1's had them he says.

There is also something about moving the engine rearward 10mm (IIRC) and the louvers on the cowl side need modification for accuracy. This info is probably all over the web if you choose to seek it.

I didn't know about the flaws of the Rolls when I started and as I found things needed correcting, I was already past the ability to easily do them.

But of course, you will just open the box and in your usual manner produce a museum piece while playing 'The Flight of the Bumblebee' with the other hand... :winkgrin:

EDIT: Also I remember that they cut the seat back away from the scuttle for ease and a more accurate upholstery. Jus' sayin'...

Edited by Codger
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Many thanks for the above.

As it happens, I often add 'axle stands' inboard for extra support on my big models.

The DB5 has them, as does the C Type and the Rolls.

I've 'built' the Alfa in my head from the excellent DVD, and there are all kinds of issues with engine placement, radiator angle, bonnet panels, scuttle etc etc......

But hey ho - as you know, it's all part of the fun with old Pocher's.

Funnily enough, you mention Flight of the Bumble bee...

When I was in a band some years ago, we used to play a ridiculously fast blues/jazz piece that had no name, so we called it 'Bungle Bee' - as we could never get it 'right'.

It became a bit of a standing joke, and we told the audience so.

Sadly we never recorded it....

However.....

Here's a link to my 'opening number' when I play solo gigs occasionally.

It's an 'oldie' called Sabre Dance.

http://www.4shared.com/mp3/H6ThoMoyce/Sabre_dance_Matt.html?

Roy.

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I'll be watching this build with interest!

In the meantime here's a totally gratuitous and off topic photo of Philippe Entancelin's

1931 Alfa 8C sharing a pit garage at Donington in 2008, with my rather later one.

I spent the entire day when not out on the circuit, drooling over it.

image001.jpg

I have resisted putting up a photo of my guitar.

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This one was started as the Mercedes is too big!
I already have umpteen gigantic model cars and keep telling myself ‘the next one will be SMALL!’ – but it doesn’t seem to happen.
Sadly, after building these big cars, 1/24 and so-on just don’t float my boat.

SO – Big Alfa it is.

This was another Pocher that I snatched at a bargain price as it had been started, and the seller didn’t know if everything was present.
Peanuts later (I won’t gloat over how little I paid) the kit arrived.

‘Started’ actually meant the crankshaft was assembled and a few bits screwed to one half of the engine…..
It was disassembled and put in little bags in the space of 10 minutes.

I obtained a full parts inventory from ‘Pocher-parts’ – an ace website if you hanker after buying a kit, or need spares – and after about 3 hours I had re-bagged and checked everything.
NOTHING was missing.
I had a Pocher Alfa Spider for the price of a few Revell 1/24 cars…..

On with the build.

The engine halves were cleaned up, filled where the usual Pocher sink-holes existed, sanded, primed and painted. Top half black, lower half ally.

Let me say from the outset that this car is going to be in ‘road’ condition.
That means ‘used’ – slightly grubby engine, oily bits – ‘normal’ usage grime.
It won’t be a showroom car, but neither will it be a ‘barn-find’, or neglected car.

The ally parts were weathered with Tamiya smoke, matt earth and some watered down gloss black.
Sprayed on, rubbed in, rubbed off. As I said, I want it to look ‘used’ – not filthy.

Immediately, the Pocher Classics syndrome returned.
Most parts fit badly – or not at all.

When it came to assembling and fitting some of the ancillaries, the locating holes frequently had to be either enlarged or moved altogether as they were in the wrong place!
However, that’s all part of the ‘Pocher experience!’.

Many of the parts are painted in the manner described above, and so far have had BMF or thick ally tape added for brackets etc….
Already, numerous holes have been drilled to add the (missing) wiring.

Roy.

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Oh baby-just my tea cup! :yahoo:

Weather away Pal. I found graphite powder (rubbed on edges) and Rub n' Buff to be excellent 'realistic' finishes too. Do your thing-you don't need me. I'm enjoying this. :clown:

PS-I hate you for stealing that kit...................................... :weep:

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More done....

The intake manifold and pump connector were assembled and weathered, with some heat staining added using champagne gold and light blue.
There are two small valves on the sides of the lower manifold that consist of a slide bolt, with a spring around the shaft. They are small but quite noticeable.
In the kit they are just little moulded plastic blobs so I cut them off, drilled out the manifold and made my own valves from pins and fine wire.
Once painted and fitted they look much better and give that area of the engine a little ‘lift’.

Missing oil lines were made up from solder wire and were fitted to the sump flange and routed along the engine side, below the intake manifold. These will be connected to the gearbox and oil pump later on.

The throttle linkages are completely missing and these parts had to be made from fine wire, brass rod, plasticard and pins. All very fiddly, but again, it’s the little details that make these big kits such fun to work on.
The throttle parts will be routed into the cockpit – eventually.

The crankshaft, con rids and pistons were assembled and painted but no weathering was added as once built, none of it is visible anyway.
There are eight really nice steel cylinder liners that have to be fitted the correct way up, and then the crankshaft etc can be put in place.
A case of ‘three hands’…..

Once installed the engine halves were screwed together and the intake manifold was fitted.

The exhaust manifolds were cleaned up next and were toned down to replicate some of my reference pictures.
Again, it isn’t an old ‘rusted’ look I’m after – just a ‘used’ car.

Next I looked at the cylinder head. - No pics here yet.....
The moulded in spark plugs are abysmal so out came the Dremel and after a bit of grinding, only the hex nut base was left.
These were picked out in silver and my own spark plug ‘uppers’ were added in the same way that I made them for the Big C Type.
White plastic tube, small bore ally tube in the centre, dress makers pin and home printed ‘Champion’ rings/markings decals added.

Roy

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Just a little update - sorry about the poor pics.

As the spark plugs were being made, I looked at the way they used to attach the leads on the real cars. There were no such things as plug caps in those days.
The old style fixings were made by flattening solder wire, trimming the flat part to shape, drilling a hole through the centre, cutting the tag off with about 2mm of wire still attached and the drilling a tiny hole in the end of the solder wire to fit the actual plug lead.

A dressmakers pin goes through the connector, a small 1mm long 'sleeve' of white vinyl tube next, and then a piece of plastic tube with the 'Champion' decal around it.
Although the bits are miniscule - the entire spark plug is only around 4mm long - it wasn't actually that difficult, and I know it’s a technique also used by our pal the Codger on his Rolls Royce.

Roy

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Edited by roymattblack
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Although the bits are miniscule - the entire spark plug is only around 4mm long - it wasn't actually that difficult, and I know it’s a technique also used by our pal the Codger on his Rolls Royce.

Roy

Yes but yours is beautifuller... :worthy:

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No, Mr C.

Mine isn't beautifuller...... But many thanks for the comment though.

And yes - finished piccies when complete. (The Aventador is now in the completed section)

I'm currently ripping out the proverbial hair to get the 'pointless' camshafts fitted, that will allow the cam covers to go on properly afterwards.

Pocher seem to think that camshafts that protrude more than the cam covers themselves will still fit!

We'll get there...

Roy.

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I know I've mentioned this in my previous Phantom build, but Pocher kits are really quite odd.

They are really nothing like any other kit you will build. They are a project in the 'biggest' sense. They really are somewhere between kit building and miniature engineering.

I honestly think that anyone is capable of building these kits even though there have been posts from people in both my build thread, and Mr. C's Rolls Royce, that think otherwise.

These kits really aren't difficult - they are just a BIG undertaking.

Work on them piece at a time - as if each 'bit' is a kit in itself.

Once the 'bits' are done, fit them together to make something even bigger.

Eventually you end up with a whole car.

If you open the box and just look at all the bits - particularly the numerous little bags full of minute metal gubbins - you'll panic and think: 'Aaarrgghh - I can't build this!'

Get one of the superb DVD's that are available for every Pocher model.

Use the kit instructions to identify the parts, but just follow the DVD.

All the extra little details that Mr. C and myself like to add aren't necessary. Even built OOB, a Pocher model is blinkin' impressive but I guarantee, once you start, you'll be adding the little extras just like everyone else.

I know people baulk at the cost of these kits, but they really ARE worth it.

Stop buying the endless stream of £20-£30 kits and save up. You won't regret it and for most folks, building one of these will take the best part of 8-12 months.

Remember, I'm retired and can work on mine for 6-10 hours a day....

Cost per hour, these kits aren't that expensive.

Also, imagine a 2 foot monster sitting on your shelf when it's finished.

GO FOR IT.

Roy.

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I agree with every word Roy just wrote. 100%.

The main reason I started my WIP thread was to encourage members to get one, not to terrorize them! And to encourage questions and dialog to take the 'fear factor' out of them.

As he says, if you can turn out any number of smaller scales (which add up, cost-wise) to please yourself, you can THRILL yourself (and viewing persons) with just one LARGE Pocher. OOB is plenty fine. Adding detail is icing on cake for you, the builder. It will challenge you but not foil you!

My mediocrity is a perfect example of being able to turn out presentable work and not be Gerald Wingrove.

However; Roy, please refrain from using 'Mr.' before my screen name. It adds undeserved refinement and dignity. In short, it's not lecherous enough-remember, it's not only my name, it's my description................. :devil:

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Hmmm..... Not Mr. C??? That needs some thought.

Next to be assembled was the distributor and coil.
Again I used reference pictures to find the colours and painted the parts accordingly.
Instead of using the little Pocher metal inserts in the Distributor cap, I drilled the holes a little larger and added black vinyl ‘boots’. The ignition leads were fixed into them.
Similarly, I drilled out the end of the coil and also drilled two extra holes to attach the missing low tension wires.
These wires had the small metal fixing tabs made up and fitted using pins.

Further wiring was made up and fitted to the relevant engine parts using more little fittings and pins.
These wires will be connected at the other ends later on.

The cam covers were painted after a lot of Dremel-work to make them fit properly. A little bit of oil-staining was then added, along with the text-plates.

BTW.... The hairy Ewok in one of the pics is one of our recent pair of house-rabbits. They are Lion mane Lops. Very inquisitive!

Roy.

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I know I've mentioned this in my previous Phantom build, but Pocher kits are really quite odd.

They are really nothing like any other kit you will build. They are a project in the 'biggest' sense. They really are somewhere between kit building and miniature engineering.

I honestly think that anyone is capable of building these kits even though there have been posts from people in both my build thread, and Mr. C's Rolls Royce, that think otherwise.

These kits really aren't difficult - they are just a BIG undertaking.

Work on them piece at a time - as if each 'bit' is a kit in itself.

Once the 'bits' are done, fit them together to make something even bigger.

Eventually you end up with a whole car.

If you open the box and just look at all the bits - particularly the numerous little bags full of minute metal gubbins - you'll panic and think: 'Aaarrgghh - I can't build this!'

Get one of the superb DVD's that are available for every Pocher model.

Use the kit instructions to identify the parts, but just follow the DVD.

All the extra little details that Mr. C and myself like to add aren't necessary. Even built OOB, a Pocher model is blinkin' impressive but I guarantee, once you start, you'll be adding the little extras just like everyone else.

I know people baulk at the cost of these kits, but they really ARE worth it.

Stop buying the endless stream of £20-£30 kits and save up. You won't regret it and for most folks, building one of these will take the best part of 8-12 months.

Remember, I'm retired and can work on mine for 6-10 hours a day....

Cost per hour, these kits aren't that expensive.

Also, imagine a 2 foot monster sitting on your shelf when it's finished.

GO FOR IT.

Roy.

Hi Roy,

You make these kits sound very interesting and tempting, I already have one of the Aventador kits, but I'm also swaying toward the older "vintage" kits also.

This may be the push i need to seal the deal on one. Thank you.

Stunning work once again. do I see from the photo's that the Cylinder head for this model is approximately 4 inches long?

Best Regards

Keith

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