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Blower Bentley, Airfix 1:12th scale


Brandy

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Thanks guys, much appreciated!

 

Tom - if the book has any pics of the area behind the firewall they would also be VERY helpful!
Codger, thanks for the vote of confidence! I did buy some tin plate to do just that but metal is not my medium...I just couldn't get it accurate enough - couldn't get the arm centred on the disc, or get them all uniform, so.....
 I've jumped in the deep end and ordered a Micro-Mark photo-etch kit. I decided that I really needed to do the shocks properly, and I've had plenty of previous builds where I've wished for PE details (including one where I did actually commission a PE set, but I had enough made to sell the remainder to Freightdog to supplement their remaining kits - covered my expenses at least!) so.....now there will be no excuse!
 I have no experience in anything like this, nor in the graphics programs needed to prepare the artwork, so it'll be a steep learning curve! I messed around this morning with my laptop's photo editor and prepared the decals needed for the friction dampers, and then spent a couple of hours this afternoon just trying to figure out how to get the basic shape of one shock arm! Once I'd found a way to do that the rest came fairly quickly. Here's what I have for an afternoon's work....

 

35964225495_bec083ec5f_c.jpg
 

I think I still need to add the connectors to hold all the parts together but I'll wait and read the instructions before I go any further!

I may have opened a rather large can of worms......

 

 

Ian

 

Edited by limeypilot
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Not tryna hi-jack , but here are some links that will help:

http://www.starshipmodeler.com/tech/fh_pe.htm

http://www.techniks.com/index.htm

I did make some files for a 1/9 m/c chain to do my own custom p/e. I sent them to Eduard and they responded with a buncha frets the way they can do them, with connectors. Doing p/e without connectors is problematic and is out of reach for the casual modeller. Here are the frets sent back by Eduard (with NO charge!):

IMG_0686.jpg The ones on the blac pad are chains availble from HiroBoy , etc.

The process is similar to the way circuit boards are made, you can research that a little. Or send a file to Eduard for a quote , you may be pleasantly surprised, I was!

Edited by krow113
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Thanks guys, much appreciated!

Toms - it's the rear side I need pics of.

Krow - thanks for the info, if my own attempt doesn't work at least I will now have a plan B!

Ian

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Limey P,

Nice work, wheels look great, I'm going to use your method for mine. Re ref for blower carbs, at Goodwood a few years ago I took these with mine in mind:-

Goodwood%20FOS%202008%20204_zpsxiusumxx.

Goodwood%20FOS%202008%20203_zpscyw792nt.

Goodwood%20FOS%202008%20201_zpsonjqseev.

Goodwood%20FOS%202008%20199_zpslkdmc6oj.

Goodwood%20FOS%202008%20198_zpslr5nga9z.

Goodwood%20FOS%202008%20197_zpse1jvbcli.

Goodwood%20FOS%202008%20196_zpse0dmiukt.

Goodwood%20FOS%202008%20195_zpsjajeyjxn.

Goodwood%20FOS%202008%20194_zpsbojdq5ps.

Goodwood%20FOS%202008%20193_zps9glxdezb.

Goodwood%20FOS%202008%20192_zps0gdhowde.

Edited by Malc2
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Malc, you're a star!

Those are PERFECT! You wouldn't happen to have any of the left side of the engine and rear of the bulkhead would you? I've written to Ralph Lauren in NY to see if they have anything available of the actual car...can't hurt to ask.......

I'm beginning to think that the lines I was asking about earlier are low pressure oil lines. On some cars they are all copper, without the flexible rubber pipe. Here's my logic - The oil reservoir on the rear of the bulkhead appears to have a line running rearwards, towards the dashboard. There is also a large round "pump like" handle in the centre of the dash - I'm thinking that it is a hand operated oil pump to get extra oil to the extremities, maybe just for cold starts.....any thoughts?

Meanwhile progress has been slow. I've been working on bulkhead details before fitting it to the chassis so not much to show at the moment.

Ian

Edited by limeypilot
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Thanks again, Malc! One or two of those I have seen, but there is some very useful new stuff there too!

 

Not much in the way of progress lately as I've been concentrating on the bulkhead details. That is done as far as is needed at the moment, which means the next milestone has been reached - the bulkhead has now been fitted to the chassis.

 

35964226555_130cd95ed4_c.jpg

 

35937344855_d7b9e769a1_c.jpg

 
I also spent much of this morning making the clamps for the intake plumbing from the blower....

 

35576511360_92a699cb4b_c.jpg

 

35125514844_63bc69d691_c.jpg

 
I'm pleased with how that's turned out, especially as it was one of those "I'll do it later" (ie. how the hell do I do that?) jobs, now thankfully out of the way! I used thin plastic strip wrapped around the trunking, then carved 12 small pieces of 1mm square rod to represent each end of the screw clamp and glued those in place. 0 .4mm aluminium rod was added for the rods, and more resin nuts - I only added the 3 at the front of the clamps, and one under the tie rod.

 

Starting to look like something now!

Thanks for looking in,

 

 

Ian

 

Edited by limeypilot
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Guys building cars in white shirts and ties........(sigh). How times have changed.

The fantastic thing about these cars is how far rearward the engine is set back from the front axle centerline.

They truly must have handled great in the day despite the small contact patches and high Cg.

I remember when I subscribed to ' Classic and Sportscar' in the '90's that Stanley Mann, a Bentley restorer and specialist, had glorious color shots every month of restored Bents for sale...

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Here's a little update...work now is fairly slow due to the detail, but each added piece makes a huge difference. I've added all the foot pedals and the brake linkage to the compensator shaft, and started on the engine wiring and plumbing.... I don't know how you guys do all this plug lead stuff, it drove me nuts - kept popping off when I tried to attach the other end - give me a biplane to rig any time!

 

I had to remove the part on the compensator shaft that the brake rod attaches to as I made it too short and the rod fouled the chassis. A new part was made and the rod is now straight and clear of the chassis rails.

 

35937344435_8af5b9a60c_c.jpg

 

35576510750_72e789b494_c.jpg
 

That's it for tonight, I have a 5am start tomorrow. See you all later!

 

 

Ian

 

Edited by limeypilot
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Got the other side of the ignition done, after an afternoon of wrapping tiny wires with strips of masking tape....not too sure about it, but I think it'll do...

35125515234_45c735227a_c.jpg

 

 

 

 

Ian

 

Edited by limeypilot
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I started work on the throttle and advance/retard linkages today. The cross shafts are 0.020" and 0.030" rod, to allow for smaller diameters for the rest of the links.

35125514554_6d5d317c9f_c.jpg

 

I also made the cooling fan, but can't fit that until I have attached the ends of the oil lines running along the side of the cylinder block - which requires knowing where they go!

 

35937344195_642a9218c8_c.jpg

 
I'm still not too sure that the fan blades are correct - they just look too long....still thinking about that one...

 

 

Ian

 

Edited by limeypilot
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Ian, that all looks very good. I'll send you mine, and you can build it for me. ;)

Those old motors don't rev very high, so long blades are probably correct - I know that the '64 Hillman Minx that my Dad used to have had a fan like a propeller behind the radiator, as did all the 60s and 70s cars I spent my early years working on. Offer it up to its location when you can, see how it looks.

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Nearly done with the carb linkages now. The choke mechanism is just resting in place and will be removed for painting before it's installed. I used aluminium tube for the main control rods, with .030 plastic rod drilled out and slipped over it for the brass bushes on the butterflies, these will also be painted tomorrow. The small circular pieces are from a sheet of 1:72 photo etch WWI prop hubs - the perfect size, and the holes are already there!

35576511020_09622af84b_c.jpg

 

35125515684_b4f95e2ba8_c.jpg

 

35125517204_b2fb3ee0e4_c.jpg
 

Once the choke is fitted, I'll add the wiring for the mags and fan, the throttle linkage from the pedal, and then the steering column, with the rest of the linkages...

 

Thanks for looking in!

 

Ian

 

Edited by limeypilot
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Excellent job on tiny bushes, links and rods. Really has a 1:1 look. Plug wires excellent too. The wrapped ones under the exhaust is a modern but nice detail.

Superb work. You gotta get to 1/8 scale soon!!!

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Wow, thanks gents! That's praise indeed from you two! I still need details of the plumbing and fuel lines before I go much further - or I'll just have to use best guess....

As for 1:8 scale, probably not - my scale is 1:72 and I have a project to build as many WWI aircraft as possible to provide a museum exhibit depicting First War aviation technology's progression from start to finish. However, I won't rule out further excursions into the auto world....I built the 1:32 Matchbox kits (Jaguar SS100, Aston-Martin Ulster, Bugatti Type 59.... there were also a Merc SSK, Auto-Union, Packard Victoria, Rolls-Royce Phantom, and an MG-TC but they came after my interest was changing and I only recently found out about them....) as a kid and would love to do those proper justice.......

Ian

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  • 1 month later...

lol, thanks Mr C. I'm still trying to find details of the engine plumbing etc but it's not forgotten!

The other problems are that now it's Summer the yard takes up some modelling time, and work is getting busy. Plus the Short will be much quicker to finish, so I want to get that off the bench first.

Ian

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