Engineer66 Posted November 21, 2014 Share Posted November 21, 2014 Thanks for the tip Rob, I'll nip to Tesco tomorrow and pick up a packet or two 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Crusty one Posted November 21, 2014 Share Posted November 21, 2014 It does leave a residue but you have to leave it on for 3 or 4 days....as I found out on my return to the hobby, I tried out the blu-tack for the first time on a Lancaster when I eventually removed the tack it left a oily residue that I couldn't get rid of!:-( 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robvulcan Posted November 21, 2014 Share Posted November 21, 2014 (edited) It does leave a residue but you have to leave it on for 3 or 4 days....as I found out on my return to the hobby, I tried out the blu-tack for the first time on a Lancaster when I eventually removed the tack it left a oily residue that I couldn't get rid of!:-( Good to know I only leave it on for as long as it takes to mask it, Mist the paint on , Soon as the paint is tacked off I start to remove it. As I don't like to leave the blue tak on too long as it tends to make your model clumsy and heavy which can result in unfortunate events taking place. That explains why I have never had an issue. I am going to try and leave some on an old scrap of painted plastic and see if I get a residue after so many days. I might post it as a WIP experiment Edited November 21, 2014 by robvulcan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
general melchett Posted November 22, 2014 Author Share Posted November 22, 2014 Interesting Crusty !, I've used it for years and luckily never had a problem. I recently finished a camo Valiant and left the Blu Tack on for almost a week with no residue or oil leak marks of any kind though I always seal the first coat in with a few light shots of Klear before applying the stuff which I think probably helps.......oh and I always roll it while wearing latex gloves on to avoid skin oil, sweat and fingerprints.....(reagardng Klear I also do the same with canopy masks, which prevents any paint creep and leaves you with nice crisp framework).....the other thing I do when using it for camouflage is to use very thin snausages and then infill the area with Tamiya tape rather than cover the whole area with it and then either flatten the edges against the surface or roll into a smooth circular tube depending on whether you want a tight demarcation or feathered line or in the case of a lot of 50/60's RAF aircraft a bit of both.... 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Crusty one Posted November 22, 2014 Share Posted November 22, 2014 Good to know I only leave it on for as long as it takes to mask it, Mist the paint on , Soon as the paint is tacked off I start to remove it. As I don't like to leave the blue tak on too long as it tends to make your model clumsy and heavy which can result in unfortunate events taking place. That explains why I have never had an issue. I am going to try and leave some on an old scrap of painted plastic and see if I get a residue after so many days. I might post it as a WIP experiment Worth a try to see if it was just my kak-handed attempt at getting back into the swing of things or a trait of the blu-tack...i used it on humbrol enamel no 29 (not sealed as melchie says he does!) thin sausages rolled to form the lines then masked off with tin foil,I left it for nearly four days after spraying on the humbrol enamel no 30 to make sure it was good and dry before I removed it,it left a shiny dry oily line where it had been in contact with the humbrol 29. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robvulcan Posted November 22, 2014 Share Posted November 22, 2014 (edited) Good tips general, got me thinking About a bad expirience I had ,anyone out there thinking how to mask camo NEVER use copydex ! It will not only give your jagged edges but it discolours the paint to. Guess how I found that out ! Edited November 22, 2014 by robvulcan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave A Posted November 22, 2014 Share Posted November 22, 2014 I've found blu-tack leaves what looks like a deposit, but it's mostly just a slight change in the reflectivity of whatever's underneath, & disappears under varnish. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Navy Bird Posted November 22, 2014 Share Posted November 22, 2014 (reagardng Klear I also do the same with canopy masks, which prevents any paint creep and leaves you with nice crisp framework) This means you apply the canopy masks, then spray a coat of Klear/Future over them prior to painting the canopy frames? I believe I've read that before, so verification from the General God hisself would be the closest thing to a light bulb going off that my chemo-addled brain can manage today. Cheers, Bill 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
general melchett Posted November 22, 2014 Author Share Posted November 22, 2014 Hi Naval Bill, You're structured reasoning is correct by thunder, it's the best way to ensure a nice crisp frame line without having to resort to the tedious paint scraping mit der cocktail stick !....works every time I've done it, (so far). On my latest Valiant which I'll post later in the week I left the Tamiya tape and Blu-Tack on for roughly 2 and 1/2 years !...and was dreading pulling it off to see what it had done to the underlying gloss white paint underneath and the MSG on top fully prepared to having to bin the thing.....I envisaged long lines of yellow and blue residue that would be all but impossible to remove without resorting to a power sander. I was very pleasantly surprised to put it mildly when it revealed a nigh on perfectly unblemished finish. I am convinced this is because I thoroughly Kleared the paintwork and let it dry over a week before using the tape.......the canopy masking had a lot of paint and Klear but came off beautifully. Don't ask why I left it on so long......I ain't got a clue, (something the memsahib will attest to any day of the week). (Disclaimer....This is a true story and not the product of a deranged mind...for a change !). Hope this helps... 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Crusty one Posted November 22, 2014 Share Posted November 22, 2014 General I'm afraid to say any sentence with the words General, Melchett, deranged and mind.... well without meaning any offence...well it just kind of feels right!!:-D no offence please dont shoot me Sah!!! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
general melchett Posted November 22, 2014 Author Share Posted November 22, 2014 Crusty, would I shoot you ?....of course not....that's what I have a batman for............Darling, be a good fellow and wheel out the Armstrong-Whitworth 4 pounder cannonnette !! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Navy Bird Posted November 22, 2014 Share Posted November 22, 2014 Hi Naval Bill, You're structured reasoning is correct by thunder, it's the best way to ensure a nice crisp frame line without having to resort to the tedious paint scraping mit der cocktail stick !....works every time I've done it, (so far). Praise be, my reasoning still be structured. If I may be permitted an additional query: Does the authorised General MelchieMethodâ„¢ work equally well on Montex vinyl masks, as it does on masks made from Tamiya Kabuki tape? Cheers, Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
general melchett Posted November 23, 2014 Author Share Posted November 23, 2014 Now you have me there Bill...I guess I'll find out soon when I unmask my 1/48th Javelin FAW.8. to be fair I don't see why not as the Klear forms a protective barrier. The montex masks seem to be made of some form of vinyl and I don't find they stick quite as well as the Kabuki ones, though taking your time with a blunted cocktail stick and cotton bud seem to help.....You have my express permission to proceed but take no responsibility for any tantrums involving dummys, spitting or prams that may result from any such action.... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Crusty one Posted November 23, 2014 Share Posted November 23, 2014 (edited) I will face my punishment like,a man by gad...in other words fall to my knees blubbing please please don't blow me up sah, my stiff upper lip quivering like a hula dancers grass skirt. On the plus side I'm going to try your Klear trick on my hurricane today so wish me Luck! Edited November 23, 2014 by The Crusty one Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
general melchett Posted November 24, 2014 Author Share Posted November 24, 2014 No blubbing Crusty, that's the spirit !...all this talk of quivering hula skirts, knees, stiff lips and grass takes me back to my time in the Punjab !......but that's another sorry story. Report back to Kevin Darling with your findings... Started masking the green so hopefully won't be to long before I can start throwing paint at it.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norman Posted November 26, 2014 Share Posted November 26, 2014 Blu tack always leaves a residue i have found white tack does not ( available in bulk for the discerning modeller on ebay) Cheers 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
general melchett Posted November 27, 2014 Author Share Posted November 27, 2014 Cheers Norman, personally I've never had a problem with Blu tack residue but then as I say I always Klear the surface first.I don't particularly like the white stuff, horses for courses really, whatever works for you... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robvulcan Posted November 27, 2014 Share Posted November 27, 2014 (edited) Never had a problem with blue tak and I never Klear until the models paint jobs finished and ready for decals then I Klear. The reason I do this is Klear coating between layers I find reduces the wear resistance of the paint as its not got much to grip on being gloss. Then I like to build mine tough as I can (mad) Adding steel wire for probes and internal structures to wings for strength is not unusual for me. The one thing I never use blue tak for is holding nose weights as often becomes loose and goes where it likes, usually where you don't want it too. Edited November 27, 2014 by robvulcan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
general melchett Posted November 27, 2014 Author Share Posted November 27, 2014 Blu tack for nose weights certainly isn't a great idea as it shrinks in time and goes for a wander....it seems everyone does things differently which is great, a mish mash of ideas promotes lateral thinking and experimentation which in turn carries the hobby forward........ouch, that hurt ! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robvulcan Posted November 27, 2014 Share Posted November 27, 2014 (edited) Blu tack for nose weights certainly isn't a great idea as it shrinks in time and goes for a wander....it seems everyone does things differently which is great, a mish mash of ideas promotes lateral thinking and experimentation which in turn carries the hobby forward........ouch, that hurt !What hurt lol.Yes indeed we all do it differently, just so long as we don't do it like they do it on the discovery channel we will be ok. All these tips and tricks to try. Reminds me that chap who wanted a blue budgie but could only get other colours. So he took the pet shop advisors advice and bought 3 other coloured budgies and some blue budgie paint. However it did not work out as the budgies died so he took them back to the pet shop. The advisor asked him what he had done since buying the budgies and he asked have you applied the paint yet ? (Budgies has turned black) the customer replied "well I got me blow torch and scraper" .... [Coat] Edited November 27, 2014 by robvulcan 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
general melchett Posted November 30, 2014 Author Share Posted November 30, 2014 Thing are progressing, just awaiting a lorry load of paper clips and a couple of pots of Gunze RAF dark green, as it's something else I managed to forget at Telford, I knew I should have written it down.....I blame Darling and his infernal flaptop compooter device ! Once here I'll set about it with gusto.....or something that passes for that around here... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomjw Posted November 30, 2014 Share Posted November 30, 2014 Looking forward to seeing you do this. I will be doing the white tack thing in the next couple of weeks so I need to see how its done. Do Gunze do budgie paint? If so, will Royal Mail carry it? So many questions so little time... Cheers, Tom. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
general melchett Posted November 30, 2014 Author Share Posted November 30, 2014 It's really straightforward Tom, the only bit of 'work' is getting the pattern shapes right to match photos. The main thing I like about this method is that you can spray at different angles to achieve a nicely feathered or hard camo line as applied to a lot of aircraft, (perfect for the 'spray it where it touches' Soviet finishes !). Not sure about Gunze blue budgie paint but Polly-S do a mean gull grey, easily perchased.....does RM carry it ?...well they're a cagey bunch and would be nuts not too.....give 'em a bell, .....be seeding you . 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Navy Bird Posted November 30, 2014 Share Posted November 30, 2014 OK, please define "budgie" paint for this Yank. Cheers, Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
general melchett Posted December 1, 2014 Author Share Posted December 1, 2014 Bill, I'll leave that to young Rob to explain .................I haven't got a clue what's going on as usual ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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