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Posted (edited)

Hi and yet another Vulcan build from me. In wraparound scheme either XL318 617 SQN, Or XL444 50 SQN.

I have many threads going on here I used to have a policy of once started must be finished before you start another but this last 18 months that has gone totally out the window, Now viewing the shelf of doom as a shelf of enduring joy and variety I keep switching projects and starting new ones.

The inspiration running high from my new experience of attending shows and seeing some amazing work on here lately.

This one I am starting quite late into the build as there is not much to this kit being basically fit the cockpit and intakes then close her up and add about 10 parts.

So.. I just thought I would share with you the few mods and corrections I did to this one and take it from there I also seek to correct the height of the Vulcan as On my last build of one I noted the whole thing sits way too low and looks a bit lacking in self esteem.

So first of a little experiment.

I have long loved the look of tinted glass and its not particularly obvious on the Vulcan but they do seem to have an browny slightly orange look to them sometimes. Accurate probably not but I decided to brave it and have a little experiment.

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I mixed up some Underwoods Floor Polish from Lakeland, With a few drops of Revell Aqua Brass, Revell Aqua clear Orange, Citadel Clear Brown Sepia Wash and got a brownish orange, slightly metallic clear paint.

I applied this with a cotton bud on the inside and then gently rotated it so the droplet of paint gradually dried over layering itself until I was happy with the density of colour.

You can see I have also used some drawings to correct the bomb aimers window (too small) using tape on the drawings (Tip I got from General melchett taa) Then transferred to the model for a rescribe. The bomb aimers blister is also too proud, the edges are too sharp and there is a weird step in front of it that needs to be removed. Some Vulcans had a small plate here but it was no were near the size of this so I cut it back with a mylar stick

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I have much reduces the intake splitter plates they are way over size but in reality they are actually quite restrained again these were cut back with a mylar stick.

I also have started to heavily bevel the lips of the intakes as these should be very rounded and not sharp as in the kit.

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Now to the nose profile, I have not gone crazy here but I have attempted to reduce the hump on the top of the nose, For some reason people seem to think the Vulcan has a bulky front nose were it should actually be quite tapered. It still should be more so, But I don't want to go to far, It seems Pit Road were unsure as there is a defined molded line that looks like they added a layer which is not apparent on any Vulcan so this was all sanded away the main area is the mid top of the nose. The canopy also has a hump that should not be there but I am again only going to slightly reduce this, Also the read canopy should be 1mm Longer with a gentler curve but I can live with this. as it looks ok.

It now looks a bit more as it should.

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The top of the tail on the RWR fincap has a prominent raised area which I have sanded back, It might be there in reality but looking at photos they look more like this too me so I sanded it to this profile.

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The nose hole was opened up and drilled into the Milliput weight inside to add a replacement piece of wire, the kit probe looks very weak and a bit underwhelming. I wanted it to be strong and more powerful looking so I will replace this.

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I used guitar string to mask the windows with child’s PVA which is easily removed with care at the end. The canopy looks very orangey on the frames but the panes look more subtle but I can only hope it looks ok at the end. If it don't,,, Oh well, It will be an interesting convo starter at shows maybe.

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So that gets us nearly to the paint stage. Cheers for now. Rob ;)

Edited by robvulcan
  • Like 2
Posted

Right then, Done a bit more on her now,

Give her a little primer in the form of HU164 to see how shes shaping up gap wise and looking ok so far.

The IFR probe has been added useing a Woodland Scenic's Foam pin. This should be strong enough if a little agricultural.

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I had to add some MrSurface 500 to this side to eliminate a little seam, Its good stuff this MrS it makes mince meat out gaps. Love the stuff now.

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Cheers Rob ;)

  • Like 3
Posted

Rob,

Checked this out as recommended……some useful pointers here so thank you for starting this WIP thread. I must admit to being a little alarmed with the simplistic detail on the nose undercarriage leg….I know this is only 1:144 scale but I did to pick up on this during my cursory look at the kit contents….looks like I will need to visit the loft again this w/e and check it out !.

Thanks again

Mark

  • Like 1
Posted

Rob,

Checked this out as recommended……some useful pointers here so thank you for starting this WIP thread. I must admit to being a little alarmed with the simplistic detail on the nose undercarriage leg….I know this is only 1:144 scale but I did to pick up on this during my cursory look at the kit contents….looks like I will need to visit the loft again this w/e and check it out !.

Thanks again

Mark

Welcome but the Undercarriage is temporary off the Corgi one, The sad thing is these are more accurate than the PR ones,

Which are way too low, The rear ones are ok but need raising about 1mm or 1.5MM as they fit too deep into the model.

The nose leg is much to short and also fits to deep into the model. I have been working on sorting these out nearly finished doing them too. Just a bit more time

is needed.

Good job you can do it wheels up though ;) haha.

I have already built a few of these on here so as I was just chucking this one together for fun I decided to start it at this point and just explain a few issues in case it was help to anyone.

Cheers Rob ;)

Posted (edited)

You can see I have also used some drawings to correct the bomb aimers window (too small) using tape on the drawings (Tip I got from General melchett taa) Then transferred to the model for a rescribe. The bomb aimers blister is also too proud, the edges are too sharp and there is a weird step in front of it that needs to be removed. Some Vulcans had a small plate here but it was no were near the size of this so I cut it back with a mylar stick

0D7C6FD5-09E9-44F4-A70F-657B54493167-313

Rob, hate to point this to you, but if you using the underside plan as you have done is still going to result in a window that is too small. Because that window is at an angle in relation to your viewing point, you do not have it's true length (eg if you look at a ruler and then tilt it away from you it becomes a lot shorter, to the point when tilted 90- degrees away the length is nil). You need to work in conjunction of with the side view, which will give you the true length (but of course, no width) to redraw the true window profile. It is an easy process to do using basic O level technical drawing. If you are unsure I can redraw one for you as I have the same plans.

Edited by andy wood
  • Like 1
Posted

Rob, hate to point this to you, but if you using the underside plan as you have done is still going to result in a window that is too small. Because that window is at an angle in relation to your viewing point, you do not have it's true length (eg if you look at a ruler and then tilt it away from you it becomes a lot shorter, to the point when tilted 90- degrees away the length is nil). You need to work in conjunction of with the side view, which will give you the true length (but of course, no width) to redraw the true window profile. It is an easy process to do using basic O level technical drawing. If you are unsure I can redraw one for you as I have the same plans.

I am glad you mentioned that and it is a good point. However its done now and it fits were it should as there is no were else for it to go.

Its only going to be painted in black anyhow,. I was going to open it up but I have filled the bottom insides of the nose with Milliput so too late for clear plastic now.

Cheers Rob ;)

  • Like 1
Posted

Well I primed her this morning with HU64 and now I am just filling in these odd lines on the bomb bay doors, I dunno why Pit road had put these on I have never seen a vulcan with them on so away they go. I will rescribe the lines that should be there and this should make the thing look even more sleek. (if your ever gonna see its belly ..)

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Cheers Rob ;)

  • Like 1
Posted

Fantastic work Rob.

Love seeing your work on Vulcans, it has inspired me to track down the airfix example at my local model shop.

Hope to be able to do it justice, if I can get it even 10% as good as yours, I will be happy.

Matt.

  • Like 1
Posted

Fantastic work Rob.

Love seeing your work on Vulcans, it has inspired me to track down the airfix example at my local model shop.

Hope to be able to do it justice, if I can get it even 10% as good as yours, I will be happy.

Matt.

Cheers mate glad you like it and cool its inspired you to pick up the Scarefix one ;) You will have fun with that.

Love to see what you do with it. Glad you enjoy what I do with them I just do it for fun and cause of my deep love and obsession with them.

Which is rather odd as I only remember 558 in the 90s and the various decaying Vulcans left.

Just something draws me too them.

I reccomend you get some intakes fore your Vulcan its worth the money and will make your life easier, But don't trust the fit with the Pins on the bottom as it pulls them 1mm away from the Lip edge on my example, But my Vulcan was particularly bad issue from the late 90s when all airfix kits were not well molded often ejected too early and distorted. Also fitting it the to top side proved better than the bottom, But you can use the kit ones with no problems other than time and effort.

Cheers Rob ;)

Posted (edited)

Thanks for the tips Rob, will look out for the intakes when I get round to it.

Matt.

Cheers Matt.

I have spent time tidying up the intakes with Mr Surfacer 500 applied with a cocktail stick, Mini files from little cars, Mylar pads, and finally small paddles of micro mesh made from the sponge pads with a cocktail stick super glued in.

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So now I can get the Lovely Green on ;)

Rob :)

Edited by robvulcan
  • Like 3
Posted

Superb work, mate!

Many thanks mate cheers ;)

Ooh, those intakes look seriously sweet. Lovely job.

Thanks I am quite happy with them and I give all the credit to the wonderful Mr Surfacer 500, How the hell did I manage without it before I do not know. Only just started with it this year and its just brilliant.

Right then on to the paint. As some of you know I like to vary things a bit. Whilst I used to just stick to HU163 and accept its the right colour etc. It just don't look right for every airframe and these days its far to bright and far too green compared to what I used 20 years ago.

Its not scientific but I like to emulate what I see in photos and all Vulcans look different, Its one of the things that I like about them. I have used many colours including HU163, but I find Olives work to get that Brown component of the old paint which I am told is different to modern equivalents.

I like HU66 and Revel Nato olive too.

But just recently when looking through pots of paint I had bought from Revell I found their call outs for RAF green that I had too vivid and decidedly green. There are a think 3 colours they recommend.

However I bought some other colours to play with and one of them was Yellowish olive or 42 Gelbolive and its one of the best matches for RAF Dark green I have seen which surprised me as I was expecting a yellow colour, Instead its a deep green with a brownish hue which I find for some reason very attractive.

Its very similar to the old HU163 that I miss from 20 years ago. So I did a test with HU164 and I really love the colour balance.

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I am not saying this is right, Its just I am happy to experiment.

I still like to stick to official colours but sometimes with all the variances in life its nice to add a bit of variety.

Cheers Rob ;)

  • Like 3
Posted

Very nice indeed, could I ask where you got the plans from?

Thanks,

Sam

Hi there I will PM you and see if I can sort some out for you btw I like what your doing with your cockpit. ;)

Those intakes are looking slick and smoooooth Rob.

Well done that man.

Matt.

Cheers mate they are no were near as hard at the airfix ones but still need a tidy around the edges.

Bevelling the lips and reducing the splitter plate to the right size helps with the sleek look and makes the nose look right too. The port hole windows need moving too but I am happy to live with them were they are this time.

Cheers guys Rob ;)

Posted

Hey Rob, My nearest and dearest has just been having a clear out in the loft and stumbled across a few photo's that I was given when I finished work. I thought that this might interest you, it is of one of the Vulcan assembly bays and it looks like it may be at Chadderton.

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Your Vulcan is starting to come together now, nice work on sorting the intake lip out.

  • Like 2
Posted

Hey Rob, My nearest and dearest has just been having a clear out in the loft and stumbled across a few photo's that I was given when I finished work. I thought that this might interest you, I think it is of one of the assembly bays at Chadderton.

vulcan1_zpsb79a19b8.jpg

Your Vulcan is starting to come together now, nice work on sorting the intake lip out.

WOW very interested thanks, That is such a wonderful photo I love seeing stuff like this, What I would give to go there having a look around there, It looks huge.

I would love to know who the people are to the right and what they are doing.

Thanks yes I like the look of the intakes. Pit Road got them a little wrong, the lower lip should sit further back and the whole aperture should have a slight taper to the wing root, Also the wing root is too fat and rounded but I can live with it and it looks pretty good.

Thanks very Much John :)

I have decided to do XL444 in 50 SQN markings. She had a grey thimble with a black rind around it so I have left the thimble HU64 grey and masked it with Tamiya I just hope it works as this is a tiny thing to mask.

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Then I painted the ring at the back with Revel Aqua Anthracite. I will then mask that and hope it works.

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I am currently just brushing it with a few coats of Gelbolive then the long blue tak masking process begins. If anyone has any shots of XL444 in the wrap around scheme I would love to see them please. Top and bottom surface shots most welcome as I like to try and get each ones pattern right rather than doing a generic job.

Cheers Rob ;)

  • Like 2
Posted

WOW very interested thanks, That is such a wonderful photo I love seeing stuff like this, What I would give to go there having a look around there, It looks huge.

I would love to know who the people are to the right and what they are doing.

I think that the people in the passageway would be some VIP party. When I was working there we would often have visits from Ministers and M.P.'s as well as prospective customers, unfortunately the Vulcan was done and dusted by then with just spares and repairs going through, we were busy with H.S. 748 and Andover at the time that I started.

  • Like 1
Posted

I think that the people in the passageway would be some VIP party. When I was working there we would often have visits from Ministers and M.P.'s as well as prospective customers, unfortunately the Vulcan was done and dusted by then with just spares and repairs going through, we were busy with H.S. 748 and Andover at the time that I started.

Must have been a very cool place to work, huge and dangerous too I expect !

Posted

Hey Rob, My nearest and dearest has just been having a clear out in the loft and stumbled across a few photo's that I was given when I finished work. I thought that this might interest you, it is of one of the Vulcan assembly bays and it looks like it may be at Chadderton.

vulcan1_zpsb79a19b8.jpg

Your Vulcan is starting to come together now, nice work on sorting the intake lip out.

Have to agree with Rob on this one…..another of those hugely evocative photos when we had a real aircraft industry. Don't get me wrong, I'm still immensely proud of the contribution that the UK currently makes to the aviation industry but it is, of course, all about multinational partnerships and there is something special about going it alone…one of the very few things I do admire about the French although I suspect they are paying for it…quite literally. Even those very independently minded Swedes that currently live 'next door' to me have had to bite the bullet and conduct the further development of the Saab J39 Gripen with others…I suspect the JAS-37 Viggen was their last 'solo' project. Thanks for posting

  • Like 1
Posted

Indeed your right there is something nice about national industry and the pride that goes in.

I would love to see more pictures of this. type of thing. I have always been fascinated by history of all kinds but I particularly love the history rarely told of ordinary folk doing a days work.

I wonder what it was like for the people there working on this when it was all hush hush. I wonder what secrets have gone to the grave, Ideas not realised etc.

Posted

Part of my curiosity with photos such as the one that nimrod54 posted is to determine whether any of those major components shown in a particular photo belong to an airframe that is still in existence today….preserved or even flying. Could it be that one of those wing or intake sections belongs to the sole flying example of the Vulcan ?. Obviously this is quite impossible to determine unless you have one of those shots showing one of these major components 'end on' because you can quite often see the serial or registration number of the particular aircraft. Its of course also easier to imagine with 'short run' aircraft, such as the Vulcan, VC.10, Nimrod etc but it would be fun though nigh impossible to do some detective work of this nature.

  • Like 1

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