DannyB Posted August 11, 2014 Share Posted August 11, 2014 Awesome work Wolwe, your pre-shading is an art in itself! Can't wait to see this one finished. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolwe82 Posted August 11, 2014 Author Share Posted August 11, 2014 (edited) Thanks guys for all the support and nice words A bit of progress, i did not have much time and as it was said earlier, i m trying to not to do any important progress while i m tired So, just a bit of scratching on one side. THe screws around cowling were all silver on the real plane, but if you do it in the 72 scale, and do not hit them all to look the same (like me.. i cannt make them all perfect rounded..), it looks quite weird.. So i used dark brown wash and droped tiny bit of it into every single screw / hole on the cowling, after i did the same before with silver colour. So now some are more visible, some less and it does not look so strange, i hope.. Also i did noticed one funny thing with exhausts.. when i look exactly from front side, the left side exhausts (in the flying direction) are like 0,5mm higher... everything else seems to be right, right geometry, but the hole for exhausts on right side seems to be slightly lower.. Well you cannt see it unless you look straight from front side, so it does not matter, but its funny.. Also i decided how to deal with the "frosted" areas after i used too much layers of matt varnish - i simply very gently drybrush pure OD over it. It gives the areas slightly diferent shine (its not that hard matt as rest of the airframe), but its all good, if you look on some movie with ww2 planes, you can often see not only faded colours but also some areas are more shiny and some more dull.. Edited August 11, 2014 by Wolwe82 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PlaStix Posted August 12, 2014 Share Posted August 12, 2014 Well it's looking excellent to me. I really like the chipping and weathering effects you achieve - especially in this scale! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolwe82 Posted August 12, 2014 Author Share Posted August 12, 2014 Thanks Stix, its not perfect by far I ran out of the enamel humbrol 11, which i m using for chipping usualy. So i had to go with tamiya xf-11 and when i want to paint such a little chips, the paint keeps drying on the brush even when i thinned the paint with retarder almost 50/50... so it was else dry before i could paint it, or it was not thick enough to make enough visible chiping.. so it was not going exactly fast.. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wellzy Posted August 12, 2014 Share Posted August 12, 2014 She looks very good to me nice Job Les 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolwe82 Posted August 12, 2014 Author Share Posted August 12, 2014 So she is standing on her own now. I thought she ll be finished tonight, but better do not ask... i always want to add just tiny detail to finish it, something not important but what would ofcourse look "cool"... like now, i wanted to use sponge to chip the leading edge of wings.. as i ran out of humbrol enamel aluminium, i was giving a go to tamiya acrylic with retarder. Dipped the sponge to not leave big marks.. and it was leaving almost nothing behind. Oki, again, push a bit harder .. and finger slipped and i got short silver area like 0,5x0,5cm... thought something about the stuff you dont want to say loudly.. was going to other wing, hands shaking a bit aaand after few pushes, the finger slipped again and it made even bigger silver trail.. enough for me then, i did let it dry and just drybrushed OD and white over it (as it was partialy over the white strip), do not have power to mask everything and respray it... So anyway, she is on her own, tomorrow i ll add the white stripes to the gear covers (ll cut some white stripes from the hasegawa mustang stripes, i m never using decals for stripes, but on the gear doors, there should be no problem for the decals to settle down easy) and glue in all gear doors (for main u/c and tail wheel too) and add some details here and there. Then do some dusting around the areas where crew was walking, make the canopy doors and i think she ll be finished 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blastvader Posted August 12, 2014 Share Posted August 12, 2014 That looks really great Wolwe. The chipping in particular looks amazingly scale. How did you do the smaller chips? I often find mine come out looking too large. Great work. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolwe82 Posted August 13, 2014 Author Share Posted August 13, 2014 Hi Blastvader, thanks, nice to hear you like her As for the chipping - i got one very nice little brush(like 0,5mm "slim" and like 3mm long hair, so the hair is thinn and accurate) - bought this by accident but it was best deal i ever did when speaking about brushes (da vinci, marder-kolinsky, 00000 - thats printed on it, i can realy highly recommend this one). Anyway, next is the paint - i m usualy using enamels for such a small chips, because they do not dry so fast when you dip the brush just a little. But here i had to use acrylics with retarder and a bit of thinner (tamiya). Now it is important to have strong, not shaking hand (my hands are shaking like crazy sometimes! ), so i m doing what i saw on some video on youtube - the kit sits on the table (closer to the edge so it is in range) and i land my wrist on the edge of the table - this makes your hand much more stable. If i m painting some hard area or i feel the fingers are still shaking a bit, i hold the brush just with thumb and forefinger, very close to the hair and my middle finger (of the same hand.. ) i use as some kind of support, when i land it down on the kit, so now all i need to do is very short move by the brush. Sorry for so long explanation, probably most ppl are using the same technique, but as much as this looks like natural thing, i started to use it quite lately, just after watching the vid.. so it might help to someone. The painting technique itself is not hard as well - its a bit similar to drybrushing edges (in cockpits and so on). I dip the brush to the paint, just a bit. If there is too much paint, i touch napkin first before going on the kit. Now when there is just a little bit of paint (there, the reason why the enamel paints are much much better for this job), i go on the kit. Now two important things - the angle of the kit and the angle of the brush. As i said, its a bit like drybrushing. So, there is the panel line, on which i want to make the chip. I m NOT going along the panel line!! The brush (as thin as it is) is still too thick for this scale and it could easy make big chip. So instead, i m going in +/- 90 degree to the panel line, and like 45 degree (in ideal cases) to the surface. So i m doing something, like if i wanted to wipe the paint by the edge of the panel. Like when you get too much paint on brush and you wipe it on the edge of the tin (well, i know you should not.. ) . If i want realy thin scratches along the edges, i m not using the tip of the hairs, but their "side" (damn my english...), going left and right along the edge. If i want some bigger chips (like in corners of panels or so), i can use the tip of the hairs or even dip the brush a bit more to get more paint on it. It is all about practice and testing, but it wont take you long to see how much paint you need, how fast it dries on the brush and so on We are talking about few hours of own testing max, to get the idea. The practicing to make it perfect ll take me few years i guess It is one of the things, which is easy to learn and i guess a bit harder to master (at least for me as i did not "mastered" it yet ). It is important to NOT dive the brush too deep into the panel lines (yea i know we talk about 0,x mm, but you ll be surprised how gentle moves your fingers can do, trust me ), because it could destroy the work. However, if it happens and you paint the panel lines from inside, no worry. Just let it dry and leter use thin brush to drop a bit of wash into the area, let it dry a bit and remove excess, repeat few times if needed As i said, important thing are the angles - you want to use this technique, like when you are drybrushing. It means you need the panel lines in +/- 90 degree to your brush. Just do the chipping along the panel line using the edges of the panels as i said before, then take the kit, turn it by 90 degree and work on another edge of the panel. Then turn it again and again. You ll always work only on the panel edges, which are between the panel line and the brush. Do not try the panel edge behind the panel line, you ll most likely end up by painting the inner side of the panel line too and that ll only make the chips looks bigger Sorry for such a wall of text, i only wanted tobe as much precise when explaining as i could (And obviously, my english is not ready for such a thing.. ) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PlaStix Posted August 13, 2014 Share Posted August 13, 2014 Thanks for posting that Wolwe. I'm going to try practicing that on some scrap pieces. :-) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolwe82 Posted August 13, 2014 Author Share Posted August 13, 2014 no worries, i m pretty sure thousands of people are already doing it this way its realy very similar to drybrushing edges, only you are limited by the deep of the panel lines, because you do not want to paint them too. So its better to go slowly, less is more Also, the general rule "if you think it needs just a bit more, STOP!" works here as well (should tell it to myself as well sometimes!... ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolwe82 Posted August 13, 2014 Author Share Posted August 13, 2014 Btw, i changed my mind about the other mustang, because the canopy realy is ugly.. i found image of some old mustang B racer, which has the windows behind canopy covered (or just painted over), so i ll try to make that racer it looks like there are not other differences, only propeller looks to be from later F-51 (the one with narrow cut tips). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolwe82 Posted August 13, 2014 Author Share Posted August 13, 2014 (edited) Oki, so the Shangri La is finished (after i made the photos, i noticed i still did not add the tail wheel doors, but i did not want to re-make the photos after i added these..)I m quite happy how she turned out, the hasegawa canopy helped a bit i think. Hope you ll like her Here are some shots, more are in RFI http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234965689-p-51b-shangri-la-revell-172/ some dust and oil work on the bottom side and the position and formation lights painted by gloss black base, then some silver dot to middle and overpainted with clear colours. well, the racer next i guess.. and i got home with some academy B and C kits.. and decals for the gunfighter P-51D, so i guess i ll fill up the stable a bit yet Edited August 13, 2014 by Wolwe82 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DannyB Posted August 13, 2014 Share Posted August 13, 2014 Cracking finish Wolwe, it looks fantastic! If this build is anything to go by I can't wait to see your racer. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolwe82 Posted August 13, 2014 Author Share Posted August 13, 2014 Thanks Danny The racer would be just, you know, quickie, just to get rid of the fuselage with the ugly canopy But if everything ll go smooth, i would like to build 2-4 more mustangs for this gb Have so many nice decals here... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PlaStix Posted August 13, 2014 Share Posted August 13, 2014 Fantastic work Wolwe!! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolwe82 Posted August 13, 2014 Author Share Posted August 13, 2014 Thanks Stix doing my best to get slightly better with every build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArmouredSprue Posted August 15, 2014 Share Posted August 15, 2014 Wow! Awesome model and weathering technique. Well done mate! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bengalensis Posted August 17, 2014 Share Posted August 17, 2014 That is just fantastic, what a paint finish! Superbly done, it's looking awesome! And then I read something I really like; a racer... Now that's very interesting, looking forward to see that taking shape. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolwe82 Posted August 17, 2014 Author Share Posted August 17, 2014 Thanks Jorgen I m now taking rest a bit (working on the two D airfix mustangs) and also i noticed the racer is from C mustang (it has the style of tail like D). So i might cut out the tail from revell B, fit there academy C tail and use the B tail on the academy kit. That way i ll get rid of ugly canopy (by simply using putty over the back part of canopy and overpainting it for the racer) and also get rid of C tail which was useless for all the decals i have at home (i m not going to work with the original academy decals.. ) But there is also spitfire IX calling me for the D-Day group yet (not talking about swordfish..) so it ll be a bit too much work for too short time Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PlaStix Posted October 26, 2014 Share Posted October 26, 2014 Congratulations Wolwe. Great looking winner!! Well done. Two GB wins! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biggles87 Posted October 27, 2014 Share Posted October 27, 2014 Congratulations Wolwe. Great looking winner!! Well done. Two GB wins! I second that John 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolwe82 Posted October 27, 2014 Author Share Posted October 27, 2014 Thanks guys, i m realy happy for that Still i think there were more great builds I would consider myself lucky and happy to be just compared along with the other great builds 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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